I got the sharp for $50 bucks with a busted lamp so I decided I'd try an alternative lamp solution. I have a Slyvania Silverstar halogen auto headlight I'm using right now, but I'll probably upgrade to a xenon HID eventually. My problem right now however is that I don't know how to bypass the lamp sensor and after shearching the internet for about a week and a half, I've come up with nothing. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.


P.S. with the exception of buying the AN-xr10lxlp. I don't have $300 right now

This thread would be a better place to get the info you need.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=59091

thanks

I haven't gotten any responses over there either. So if any body has any ideas let me know.

yo what up
on your sharp pj find the 2 to 5 wire set comming off of the ballast (the small wires) going to the unit (ballast removed) one of those will be a ground , ground it to the chassie on a screw, loop the two circut wires
you,ll have to figure witch one is witch once you do that it should fire up , ive done this with several pj,s with no lamps from ebay

also if your using a car headlight or hid you might want to use a good amperage power source take apart and use a car battery charger one with a 6 or 10 amp switch

any ? ratcliffedon@yahoo.com i got pics of it

Thanks alot. i was starting to get frustrated. I'll try that and post somepics once i get it running with the hid.

moosenutz,

I'm interested as well on how you did this.

Victor1

SUCCESS! I found the photocoupler I needed to bypass and am powering the HID with a computer PSU. It came out better than I expected. Right now I'm working on getting the HID positioned correctly. I'll post pics when I'm done. A working 720p dlp PJ for about $140. I think it's worth it.

I am also trying the same. My bulb is not comming up. Could you please explain indetail. if you have pictures please send me.
I am not sure which wire i need to loop ,disconnet or ground. Please help me. I have same sharp xr-10x

u did what im doing 3 threads further down.....post some pics

So i dont mean to be off topic but i have never been able to get my xr10x to do 1280x720p in streatched mode. it only brings it up in normal mode 4:3 mode. But yet it will let me do 1280x1024 in stretched mode (stretching 4:3) what the hell???lol

Oh yea lets get some pics up of this modded xr10x. I'm more than likely going to be following one of your guys's examples. Mine keeps going through bulbs and i'm tired of it..lol

I've got an old Sharp XG-NV2u 800x600 Projector. It would be nice to put in A Dual Xenon light setip in it and bypass the original dead light. It would be nice to see some pics and a detailed step by step of what you people have done to yours.

I Plan on Making a DIY dual Xenon 7.2" Sharp setup in the Future so if my old professional projector doesn't work right, I'll just go and make a DIY version. If it does work out GREAT , then I'll have 2 projectors both running on Xenon.

OK! After scouring the net on how to mod my Sharp XR-10X I finally figured it out. First I'm going to give a shout of thanks out to g247 and DAZZZLA for their posts (http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=24791&mode=linear) which helped me put this all together.

For other Sharp XR-10X owners that are wanting to mod theirs either for LED like me or for other cheaper lamps, I have taken pictures of what I did to mine so you can duplicate my success. The goal here is to bypass the lamp detection circuit so that the system will always thinks the lamp is there and lit. jmath15's comment about the photocoupler put me on the right path which led me to the thread mentioned in parenthesis above.

Now correct me if i'm wrong but photocouplers, optocouplers, and opto-isolators are all the same thing, on the XR-10X these opto-isolators are located on the bottom power supply board. However, as I point out in the attached photos, the layout is the same as what DAZZZLA was talking about. Once I located the correct opto-isolator I did as g247 said and bridged (soldered together using short wire) pins 3 and 4 (ON THE SIDE THAT SAYS "COLD" EG LOW VOLTAGE SEE PICS). Once that was done the lamp light stopped flashing and stayed green and the system stays on! YAY!

Obviously I started by removing the cover, then as this photo shows, remove the projector's mainboard.


Next I removed the metal panel separating the mainboard from the power board on the bottom.


Next I removed the power board from the bottom chassis, then removed the power board from its housing.


With the power board now separated I was able to identify the lamp circuitry board and the opto-isolators.


Opto-isolator identification (shows which one is the lamp-lit opto)


Solder job of the opto-isolator.


Then I reassembled and it was WORKING!!!!

Hope this helps others out there.

LEGAL DISCLAIMER: The above instructions reflect the steps I took on my projector and do not guarantee your success should you choose to follow the same steps. Modifying electrical systems and components can be dangerous and may damage your equipment or result in bodily harm (e.g. you may get shocked). I am not responsible for any damage you do to your equipment or yourself in the process.

Thanks for this info -- I was able to bypass the lamp sensor on my XR10-X following these steps.

Does anyone have a suggestion for a suitable [cheaper] aftermarket bulb that will fit in this projector? So far I've fitted a G8 ballast with a 100W bulb (~$6.50ea/1000 hours) that works relatively well, but still isn't very bright. I am going to try a T4 type 250W bulb as well before trying to mount two G8 ballasts/bulbs. Great site!!

Glad to have helped!

What type of lamp setup are you using in yours? I've found many other threads (most notably ounvme's infocus topic) and have tried a couple different small halogen sources but still haven't found anything that will work for DLP that strikes a good balance between cost and watchability.

For my setup I chose to ty LEDs instead as they are lower power, lower heat, and longer life (more expensive up front but again longer life).

At the moment I have a 30 watt 1800 Lumen LED ($30 on ebay) attached to an old CPU heat sink with fan. The setup fits perfectly inside and while watchable in low light, isn't quite what I hoped. What I found was that I was losing too much light to the fact that the hole where the light goes through (the little rectangle glass lens setup) is so tiny. I tried removing the lens setup and while it increased the brightness, the lens wasn't there to correctly focus the light onto the DLP screen so I still ended loosing light to around the screen and that didn't look right either. What I've found from other online sources is that I need an additional lens (~$14) directly in front of my LED that will focus it down to the little rectangle. I haven't done that yet so I am unsure as to how much better it will be. The other alternative is to get a more powerful LED (50 Watt 4000-4500 [~$65] lumen or 100 Watt 7000 lumen [~$120]) by which time the loss of the extra light shouldn't be noticeable. Right now that isn't an option for me so I'm just going to get the lens and see how that works.

I'll post pics of the light assembly later and possibly some pics of the projection quality.

Something like this I take it?

http://cgi.ebay.com/HIGH-POWER-50W-LED-BOA...id=p3286.c0.m14

What setup do you use to drive your LED? Where have you sourced the lens to focus your LED? Like you, I'm particularly interested in this setup if it can be focused well. Even with 75% light loss, 1200ish lumens using the 4500 LED would be right around ECO mode with the factory stock bulb. And if the LED outlasts the DLP optics by 30 or 40 years...

Well I've got a 100W 7100 lumen bulb with a 2000HR life in the same form factor coming in:
http://www.lightbulbemporium.com/eiko_1510...100w_2n_fsc.asp

I emailed the supplier regarding the lumen rating and got a confirmation that the number is correct and even received a mfger spec sheet from them. I figure it's worth a try for $5. The results I've gotten with the 100W bulb I already have are almost watchable in a dark room, so I figure if the passthrough is around 7-9% off of 7100 lumens the results should be decent enough. There seem to be plenty of other OHP bulbs out there like this one that would put out more than enough light to serve as a properly sized direct retrofit for these DLP projectors, but their lifetime is just so poor.

so has anybody successfully retrofitted this projector with a led unit. I read this thread and see someone was supposed to post pics when they are done but haven't seen any new pics yet. I too am sick of paying high price for a bulb these days. my last one didn't even last 9 months and it was defective when I got it but the company that I got it from would never answer vmy emails. anyways I'm interested in this and would like to know how the guy with the 7100 lumen led came out. did u get that other lense?

Well I managed to destroy my 7100 lumen bulb during removal of the stock reflector.

My retrofitted G8 ballast with 100W bulb using no lenses and the stock reflector does work, but is too dark to be watchable unless the room is pitch black.

If you were to buy one of the 5500-7000 lumen LEDs on eBay you might squeeze 5-600 effective lumens out of it (kinda dim), but it would be as bright as any of the commercial LED projectors out right now that cost big $$..

I don't think we are quite there yet with LED's. A Projector burner puts out about 20,000 Lumens on bench testing. 600 Lumens is pretty dim for an enjoyable experience on a big screen. I really think the way forward is removing the color wheel and sychronising Red, Green, Blue and white LEDs with the wheel.

These LED mods can become costly with dissapointing result nevertheless good fun.