Okay so this might just be my last one. I have most all the parts 18" beseler, 15" LCDTV 720P , 400W LL bulb, coil ballast, still need to get fresnel lenses. Least of worries to get are fans, reflector, wood and switches and misc. stuff. I would really like to keep this build as small as possible even if that means I need to use a mirror I really like what Arkom did just dont know if my skills are that good or just do a standard vertical with the mirror inside and the beseler sticking out. So a couple of questions which fres do I need the 330 and 550 or the 220 and 550 I would like to get a condensor for it also since everybody says the condensor helps tremendously. I am throwing all this out here for suggestions and I have a feeling this PLOG will take awhile I am trying to make it WAF since my last one a standard 15" is condemed to the garage.

Well after much comtemplation I am just going to make it a vertical with the beseler stick out the front and the mirror insided seems as if this is the norm I need to get my fresnel lenses and dont know which one to get I am sure I need the 550 for the front and the rear I am not sure I want to get a precon for it since they are not to pricey so which precon to get and which fres to use?

I'm using a 4.5x6.5 precon with a 330mm fresnel lens for my current build. I've heard that this is probably the best set up if you use a precon. If you don't, just use a 220mm fresnel. Can anyone verify this?

yeah what gusty said???????

Okay so I have been drawing what I want to do I suck at google sketchup so I am just using paper and pencil I am just going to buy a 4X8 wood (not sure what kind MDF is nice to work with but I want something lighter) so who knows its just going to be a box 18"X17"X4' I am going vertical and puttin wheels on it so i can push it around. I really want to put the mirror after the 18 beseler (OHP style) but nobody has done it. Is this a bad idea???? I was also hoping to use the mirror from the old projector the big trapaziod one how big or small do I need the mirror to be? Throw any suggestions my wasy please.

Oh yeah I have seen the question asked many times on lcd orientation does it stay the same whether the mirror is before of after the triplet??

Ok sdubb, I prefer the 317 to 330mm rear freszies than the 220mm, couple this with the 4.5"dia x 6.5"fl plano/convex precon and you'll have a much even spread of light across the screen. Seeing that your building with a 15" Polaroid then this is the only way because a 220mm fresz will not work with a 4.5" x 6.5" fl precon with that size of LCD (See my Precondenser Experiment). If you find a large precon with about 5 to 6"dia x 9 to 12"fl then this will work with the 220, but still, IMO I think the spread is not as great as 317-330mm.

You do need a 550mm or longer front fresnel for the 18" Beseller, of course, any longer and the build gets longer, so 550 is fine.

Building vertical is great for space issues around the room and it's always a plus for WAF, however, building vertical allows for more heat to rise towards your freszies and LCD so anticipate your plans for more and/or efficient cooling compared to building horizontal. And I do beleive that a mirror after is more forgiving than before the triplet but of course there is that overhead projector look, so if your not to concern on how it looks but more so on how it performs than your gold.

Just to let you know I can negotiate some parts I have for large LCD builds like a precon, reflector and fs mirror that I don't think I need anymore, so pm if your interested.

sim

Hi sdubb,
I want to go with a panel from a 15.4" HD TV also, So I have a couple of questions for you.
Is there a differance in the stripping of the Polariod 15.4" HDTV and the Elament 15.4" HDTV or are they the same ? Also are they the same in all other areas like inputs, HD tuner, ect,ect...The specs look the same.
One last thing, It looks like the Polariod has a glossy screen and the Elament a matt AG screen. If I don't want to do AG stripping would the Polariod be the better way to go or are the Glossy and non glossy screens still both AG layers that act the same with not passing as much light through ?

Best person to ask would be "arkcom" I think he has both panels and he says they are the same I even think he has swapped control board and works fine but ask him he should have all the information you are looking for.

The electronics are the same between the two. Some of the Polaroids have the shiny antireflective screen that would not need the ag stripped off.

So I found a 3" soup ladle for a dollar and hacked it up now I am thinking I should not have cut it oh well it was a dollar i can get another one any way is it better to cut or not to cut that is the question?????????

couple of more pics one shows a preccon in it dont know anything about it but hey try it, it cant hurt anything right

I don't know why theres not a website for perfect parabolic reflectors,cutable/adjustable.A perfect sphere in any diameter.A person could make $$$$ with such a product.

My OHP has a aluminum sphere thats polishable.

Anybody out there?

sdubb, is this ladle actually spherical and is it stainless steel or just silver plated. If it is just silver plated you will later find later that it will darken very easily from the lamp's intense heat. If it is not spherical you may find that your light spread as not even.

As far as hacking, can you give us a side shot of the bulb within the notch? I want to see how far down you have it.

Well have a look at these pics and tell me what you think Sim as far as the stainless and spherical............ the ladle says "stainless china" so i do not really know anymore than that and it sure looks spherical but I am not expert so it looks like a ball cut in half to me

Okay so anybody know where I can find a pre-con for this bulb. Since it has been said I can use a precon with this bulb. Thanks oh yeah with the 330 fres

bump

Man I am such a loser I am gonna have to bump my own thread again. A couple of questions

1. Where can I find the proper condensor?

2.Also since I am doing the thread rod design on a vertical build and the heat will be rising couldnt I just put the fans right under the first fres?

3.Do the LARGE fres have to be in a frame? (is this just to help them from warping) i was just going to bolt them together.

4. Why do you have to have the fres and lcd "tilted" in a vertical? (my 7" just shoots straight through out triplet and off the mirror no tilting)

okay so I finally have my fresnel lenses so I can start to put this together

400W coil ballast/mogul $15
polaroid tv 720P $125
18 beseler $20
no precon decided against it since I couldnt find one so
220 fres $25
550 fres $25
LL bulb traded with blake my triplet $20 (that was the cost of the OHP)
soup ladle $1 we shall see how it does
mirror from the beseler if I decide to go vertical still in limbo
wire FREE
switches and what not $15 (from OHP)
fans trade with bro. for lcd $10

misc.. bolts screw lexan nuts wood thread rod..... who knows..

I think thats up to $240 so hopefully I wont go over $300 thats the goal I built my 15" straight thru for 200 so here goes nothing

You know, I'm going to post here just because you haven't had any comments in three months. Hope it turns out good and we get lots of pics

Still here sdubb, observing. Keeping an eye out for a precon for the 330mm fres.

well like i said i gave up trying to find a precon for the 330 so i just got the 220

Well hopefully this weekend coming up I will get the box built. A buddy who has wood working tools said he has a free Saturday. So is anybody up for some freelance work and wouldnt mind sketching up a bunch of dimensions for me?? I guess my main concern is going to be measurement for 550 fres to mirror and out the 18" beseler. I am hoping that my trapezoid mirror will work or be big enough.

bump

Okay so tomorrow is the big day "box building time" lets see how bad I can mess this up If you see something wrong please point it out to me. I am just going to get a 4X8 sheet and make a vertical I will work my way down so the box will be 4' tall mirror at 45 degrees and then shoot a laser pointer on it and mark the center of my beseler. Drill or cut out that whole and then start working my way down. I dont really have a clue of what I am doing on this vertical I have only made horizontals with the standard triplet. The concept should be the same. A total of 550mm from beseler to fres of course bouncing off the mirror. and 220mm from light to fres. and then make the whole thing adjustable Does that about sound right or am I way off.

My recommendation:

1. All DIY PJ's have some sort of frame for their LCD panel that keeps it still and cradles the FFC/circuit board. Some have that circuit board at a 90 degree angle to the LCD while other lay it out "flat". I recommend the latter for your set up since the "face" of the LCD will be on the side of the triplet instead of the lamp in a folded configuration.
2. Since you're using threaded rods in your setup, the frame must have a perimeter wide enough for the rod and with enough wood around it to give it strength. That resulting frame dimension should be the basis for making frames for your fresnel lenses. I recommend frames for fresnels in order to give support on all edges and avoid sagging. Drilling holes directly in the fresnels is risky and prone to splintering.
3. The same LCD frame dimensions can be used to make platforms for your lamp, a base to anchor your threaded rods, and a cap.
4. Finish out with the housing around the projector. That's when your cut that 4 x 8 sheet to fit snugly to seal out light and ensure proper air flow.
5. Be sure to create channels around your LCD and fresnels to route fresh air over the panel. This is usually done by notching the frames on alternate sides.

I gave up on the vertical to much over my head dang mirror and what not. Pics of the box I dont know why it took me and a buddy 10 hours to build the freaking box he had one beer I had none oh well its done. Not much to it........ its just a box.

I sure hope its long enough How long is yours ??????????????

Here are some pics Iam trying to get everything aligned before I cut the big triplet lens I am off I think. It seems that the bulb needs to be lower I think. The arc image is quite a bit below where the lens should be so this makes me think the bulb needs to go even further down??????????????? any suggestions greatly appreciated.

a couple more pics

Helloooooooooooooooo Hellooooooooo is there anybody out there just nod............

Did you see that nod?

Mine's folded and I'm in a hurry to get to lunch so I can't say which way is which but just take a flashlight and aim it at the fresnel and figure out that way which direction to move the lamp.

Or... move the hole for the triplet.

Why is it that at midnight you dont think of these simple little things I will have it a go tonight

QM.......... I thought about that but would rather not I just need to get it aligned so that the center stays the center on all the parts

Yes, maintain proper axial alignment of yer schtuff.

Edit: Sometimes . . . at midnight . . . I roll over and my simple little thing gets caught in my thong causing me to awaken.

Okay so I have checked and double checked everything it all seems to be aligned. I am in the garage so I know it has a slight slope to it but that shouldnt matter (keystone corrected) Do you think the lexan with the protective plastic sheet could throw it off?? I just dont get it anybody wanna take a stab at it?

Well I am still ploging along pics

the controller is just sitting in the box it will be attached to the side of the box.

I took the first pic and didnt realize that my other 2 projectors were in the pic

Like I said I am just slowly moving along I figure it took me this long to just collect the parts whats another couple of months still lots to do painting and wiring and whatever other problems I run into.

Okay I have everything aligned except the bulb. I am having problems with that. This is where I hope Quasi comes in with his search skills. I found a plog about the arc image focused and in the area of the triplet, it even had great pics. I am trying to find this plog again but also need to figure a best way to do what he had done. Basically I am trying to find out how to make sure I have my bulb in the sweet spot.

I have a polariod 15.4 just like yours (but with dvd player). Unfortuneately the lcd got trashed in my last move. I wonder if I could find a cheap monitor that would work with the controller. It certainly has enough inputs to satisfy anyone.

I'm not sure how others find the sweet spot but, a good starting point I have found is to determine the radius of the reflector by using a square on the outside of the reflector. At that distance if you look at the light source it will fill the reflector and look egg shaped in the reflector. Now pull it (light source) away from the reflector until it is just barely hidden by the light source, this will give you an area or distance to work with to find the sweet spot. Use this as a refer for bulb-reflector distainces and then start at the FL of the rear fresnel to start adjusting for best brightness. I also prefer to do this with the lcd turned off so that the white screen is being projected.

By the way I know what plog you are talking about but can't find it for you. sorry.

I'm not certain what you're looking for. You've already tried the piece of paper against the triplet trick back in Post #29.
Maybe this search will help you find what you're looking for: site:lumenlab.com +align +lamp +"sweet spot"

i finally found it

http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...8033&st=250

post 265

how is he getting that nice arc image? Does he have any lenses in?? that arc sure looks perfect.

I think that's just with the lamp and triplet - no fresnels or LCD. Or maybe just no LCD.

Here's some more info on aligning the lamp and fresnels from SupraGuy. You may have already read this, though.

hey, saw your note on my plog.. those images were taken with the fresnels and the lcd removed, hence the clear images. so its the just the bulb / reflector shooting through the triplet. i wasn't trying to do any lens alignment with those tests, just trying to compare reflectors and trying to get the reflector optimally placed relative to the bulb..

Still working on everything from painting the exterior to wiring. I have finally found the sweet spot for the light but the problem is adjusting just where i want it. I think I am going to go the epoxy (PC-7) thats the brand I have and magnents. Has anybody that is using epoxy and magnents had any problems with it sliding down or the epoxy breaking down in the chamber?? PC-7 says its good up to 200 degrees F I would think that chamber is pushing these numbers.

Well not much to report and my camera was on vaction with my wife also seems to be the norm around here Anyway I am gettign close (I think) the box is primered white and ready for a decent coat of paint then it will be time to wire it neatly and I should be done. So hopefully within 2 mos it will be done (Wife and 2 very young ACTIVE boys makes projector building SLOW) maybe I can at least take some pics. of course the camera is starting to go on the fritz every once in awhile it takes weird streaky off colored pics almost like what you see when an FFC has been destroyed (oh well at least its not my projector YET)

sdubb, looking forward to the finish box. BTW, looking at centering the bulb, I'd move it down...that's if you have room to.

Yea moving it down is pretty much a no go! This just turned into a horizontal bulb no big deal but I fought with it all last night and got even brightness without the LCD in (fres cut for a 17) but as soon as I put the LCD in I had perfect focus on the right hand side but as you moved to the left it wasnt so clear so I think my bulb needs to be pushed more to the right. This whole align the bulb thing is really @#$% me off. I am so ready to throw in the towel but I am so close.

I feel your pain, I'm still having slight issues with centering my 575w'r (bluish tint on right corners). Kinda put the aligning aside and enjoy it the way it is for now.