I’ve decided to start a dedicated plog for my10.6” build since it’s getting closer to the end.

Samsung 10.6 with a Genesis controller.
PS2 power supply
327mmFL 3M triplet modified to approximately 345mmFL
150W Osram powerball
60mm silvered reflector
330mm front fresnel
220mm rear fresnel
70mm diameter 75mmFL Pyrex aspheric from SS

Split fresnels
15° fresnel tilt
+- 2° LCD tilt
3 point adjustable triplet mount

Servo driven focus and fresnel tilt
Temp and RPM fan monitoring, turns the lamp off if there is a fault.
All electrics controlled by the remote.
Fan run on for cool down

Small box size. 290mm * 700mm * 260mm
Aluminium chassis with 3mm MDF/ fibreglass case
Ceiling mounted with connections on top and switches / monitoring on the bottom.
Louvered light filter for the fan
Active Ballast cooling.
Aluminium heat shielding around lamp.

I’ve just copied some of my posts from this thread so that it keeps the info in one thread.

10.6”LCD Tests:
Power use:
12.6V
With backlight= 1030ma
Without backlight =530ma
Light transmittance test using the sun (5:30PM) with all the films intact (protective sheet held on with tape wasn’t included). Four measurements for each side and then averaged.

Light entering from the back light side: 5.91%
Light entering from the opposite side: 6.49%

With the two silvery films removed from the backlight side of the LCD:
Light entering from the back light side: 5.83%
Light entering from the opposite side: 6.6%

With the first polarizer removed from the front side of the LCD (all films removed) :
Light entering from the back light side: 6.44%
Light entering from the opposite side: 6.73%

I also measured the light transition of the removed first polarizer
39.9% sun light
And parallel transmittance: (using a white screen on a LCD monitor)
85% polarized light

I used the original metal frame and modified the white plastic holder. After the plastic is cut away it becomes a bit flimsy so I used fibreglass PCB to strengthen it as well as provide a place to attach screws for mounting it into the projector.

This is the jig I used to hold everything square while the epoxy dried.
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And what it looks like without the LCD mounted
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A couple with it mounted
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I forgot to mention that I had to grind the lip off the metal frame so that it wouldn’t cut into the FFCs. It must be stainless steel because it took quite along time.

DJ

Here’s a recap of what has been discovered so far about the layers on the 10.6.

From the front:
The clear protective film is simply attached to the LCD with two pieces of tape.
The TAC, 1st polarizer and TAC can be dry peeled all together.
The A/G came off with a water soak. (Very risky).
From the back:
First silver film can be dry peeled in one piece leaving a sticky glue residue.
Second silver film can be dry peeled in horizontal strips. (Easier than trying to remove it in one piece)

The 3rd polarizer still may have some more layers (TAC?) and possibly the second as well but should be left attached.

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A pic of the glowies when the LCD was used in un-spit.

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This is with no reflector or pre-con. The top is more noticeable than the bottom. It’s bad enough to wash out the circles.

An interesting link to an online seminar about LCD design

Heres a few pics of what I’ve been building. It’s all aluminum for strength, weight and size. I haven’t decided what I’m going to make the skin from just yet. Some of the possibilities: Cedar timber veneer with the aluminum exposed and painted black. Semi-gloss aluminum panels with corner aluminum gloss black. Fiberglass skin.

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More
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I brought a fan controller with temp and fan RPM monitoring. If the temp increases over as set temperature or the fan RPM falls below a set speed the alarm is sounded. I intend to tap into the alarm transistor and use it to trip a relay to turn the lamp off in the projector. But… when I went to set the RPM threshold, the controller’s minimum was only 1000 RPM. This isn’t much of a problem when used with most fans but I just so happened to buy an 800 RPM S-Flex fan GRRRR. I wasn’t going to let is get the best of me and go buy another fan. Someone must have had this problem before, especially the HTPC people who use slow fans, so I went searching on Google but nothing turned up. Still determined I designed a circuit myself. This is what I come up with:

Edit 100M should be 1M
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It’s a frequency doubler. It works by taking the square wave signal from the fan and integrating it with a simple RC circuit then a window comparator is used to create a square wave again with twice the frequency by setting the reference voltage of one half of the window comparator to turn on for the first 1/3 of the integrated wave and the second half of the window comparator turns on for the last 1/3.
Then the signal is buffered and past onto the controller.

A couple of waveforms:
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This one shows the square wave signal from the fan and the integrated wave form

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And the fan signal and new *2 square wave.

Here’s a temp mock up of the shape of the rear of the projector. It’s just cardboard scraps to give me an idea to where everything fits.
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Edit:
The biggest hassle is/was fitting the 120mm fan into the box. I didn’t won't too much light leakage so there needs to be a baffle of some type fitted but the fan doesn’t work to well when there is something 30mm from the blades.

I managed to get some time to cut and glue the case.
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It’s 3mm MDF glued together with Gel Superglue and reinforced with satin ribbon soaked with regular Superglue. It works very well, almost as strong as the MDF itself.
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(I’ve added fiberglass as well for even more strength)

Five more sections added . At this rate it’ll be months away from finishing.
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Here are a few pics of what I did over the weekend.
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And one from the bottom:
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So far I’m up to the 27 pieces. Each one takes a fare bit of time to make.

More to come when I get back from holidays in a couple of weeks:

DJ

Edit: one new pic from above showing some electronics and the servos
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DAZZ, yes the third polar does have TAC on top after removing the 2 silver films. I discovered it on mine when I tried removing last silver and scratched up the surface. I buffed it with Mother's Polish and some of the scratches disappeared but there was still some deep ones showing. Realizing that this was not the polarizer I proceeded to remove it using the water soak and it came up. Now this side is bare polar. I didn't want this to happen but I had a hard time removing the residue left behind after removing the last silver and I used Goo Gone. This some how became a messy and difficult procedure requiring me to use a plastic scraper that eventually scratched up the TAC. I would have preferred to leave it on to protect the polar, now, I'm afraid there's a chance of possible graining on this side .....lesson learn.

BTW, very professional and intricate work your doing here with the build.

WOW, excellent work. I like the way you are putting it together in sections, reminds me of the way pun15her does things. what color are you going to paint it?

excellent job dazzzza,, and yes I was tinking samo, about pun15her,s work too..

Hmmm . . . we haven't seen pun in quite some time . . .

elken! Sneak down to DAZZ's while he's away for the holidays and check to see if pun is in his basement with a bowl of water and some moldy bread!

Worse yet, he's snuffed pun and kidnapped his house elf!!!

I can hear it now.

"It puts the lotion on it's skin."

LOL!
I love it here!

"... or else it gets the hose again."

One of the greatest movie villians! I loved it when he lost his composure and shouted, "Put the f**king lotion in the basket!"
And what male can honestly say that he's never tried the tuck-job in front of the mirror after watching that movie?

Oh!... and what about the scene in Clerks II when they parody the scene from "Silence of the Lambs".

Back on topic... Dazzzla, are you going to be rounding all those corners before painting or will you be leaving them sharp like that?

Looks cool! I like the case design.

This is so funny, as you were describing the problem I was thinking: "Just integrate the signal and convert it back to a square wave" Great minds I guess. Are you an engineer or just enlightened?

BTW I like your case design. See my plog for gross overuse of aluminum channel. Makes aligning stuff easy, but do yourself a favor and don't count how many machine screws you used after you get done. Depressing...

I wish I did have a house elf, I’ve been building this for nearly a year now  So you’re getting the time lapsed version. I’ve still got alot of newer pics that I’ll eventually upload. It’s a real pain typing at the moment, my keyboard’s space bar has craped itself so everything I type I have to go back over and slame the space bar hard. I night just post them with hardly any text and wait for questions

TESCORP:
I’m not sure yet, I’m thinking maybe dark red/brown for the case and black for the frame. So it will tie in with my speakers. On the other hand I may just paint it black.
Open for suggestions?

Quosi mojo:
The corners have a small curve now, about 1.5mm radius. I liked the sharp look but not from all angles and sharp corners are difficult to paint so I opted to round them.

Matzner:
Of coarse I’m an engineer, A DIY engineer. No qualifications, I just like stuff. If the stuff becomes a carreer then it becomes non-enjoyable.

A few odd pics, no particular order
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All of the electronics and servos had to fit into a space no greater than 20mm high otherwise they would block the light path.
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Blurry pic alert!!
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Looking from underneath at the temperature controller and LCD buttons



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the lamp assembly


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case bottom with overspray



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focus mechanism

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fresnel tilt limit switches

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servo relay PCB


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temperature alarm with my controller PCB added


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ballast with its mounts


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I trimmed the OSD board and extended the wires


DJ

very cool indeed I was thinking Star Wars the whole way .. You could put some X wings on it and when you hang it from the ceiling paint it white with red stripes... 2 conversation peices in one... Now thats a double wow factor... Yep and I love the movie.. JOE DIRT... )))((((JOE DIRTE'))) I liked the part where he found the missle and it turned out to be an old airline dump tank..... (( NOW THATS FUNNY RIGHT THERE !!!! " I DONT CARE WHO YOU ARE>>>>"""" GETR DUN!!!!! WHAT ABOUT LSU WHOOPIN UP ON OHIO STATE....... Nice design

impressive build.
btw: with 2 fins and 2 vings added, it would look exactly like a F-117A (stealth fighter)

Are you TIG welding all joints on the top panel ?

All the aluminum is pop riveted. The 20mm square section of the main chassis took along time to make. I used a file to fit the joins then I inserted a small length inside the two and pop riveted them on the inside. Allot of the pop riveted joins I countersunk the heads to allow other pieces to fit snuggly.

DJ

Looks fantastic, Dazz. I like the servo controls. Nice touch.

I was thinking stun runner.

"good luuuuck"

Great build, Dazz! Hey, can you maybe show the frame and skin you have now next to something to get a feel for its size? Or do you have the length and height maybe? From pics, it looks just like a big ole pj, not a 10.6, but I know it should look smaller. Thanks!

290mm * 700mm * 260mm. These are to the extremities.

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While I’m here I may as well post a pic of the louvered light filter for the fan and heat shielding.

Damn!!!
That pop can puts things in perspective!
I look forward to seeing this completed build.

Dazz? Is that a half liter pop can?

I'm not Dazz, but it seems to be. I got one half liter beer can next to my keyboard and it measures 16.8 cm in height.
Don't know if they differ in sizes, but the diameter looks the same as in Dr.Pepper can.

dazz build me a case like that pleassssseeee ..

I'm pretty certain that is a standard 355mL pop can.
The 10.6 panel is less than 6 inches tall and if you look at the pictures of the LCD sled installed, it takes up the full height of the "box".

Shhhh don’t blab that out.


Seriously though, it’s a standard 375ml can here in Oz.

Really lov'n the design DAZZ Are you planning on table or ceiling mounting this pup?

Ceiling mount. The buttons are all on the bottom and the connectors are on the top, fresnel tilt is set this way as well, so I don’t have a choice now . With the combination of LCD size and LCD tilt I should be able to get a good 15° angle down with very little distortion, that’s the plane anyway.

DJ

EDIT:
Oh, I’m gunna slip some of that DBEF in there as well to test it out with a diverging beam.

Ooooooh, I want to play too! Doing it before the LCD are we?

Yep, just before the LCD. I’ve still got to order a ¼ wave retarder though.

BTW, I was in need of another polarizer (just in case I had to replace a ruined one on my 10.6) and I after examining the DBEF samples I had I was able to remove the reflective layer off revealing just polar. Removing the adhesive was the pain however. If this is of any use to you.

Where you able to remove the reflective polar in one piece?

Hmmm, can't recall. It was a small trial I believe. Why, is the reflective layer what your more interested in?

WOW, very innovative design Dazz, I'm loving it! Of course this comes as no surprise considering all the various items that you have already brought to the table that we all use on a regular basis these days! Thanks! Great job so far...I plan to follow.