http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread....mp;pagenumber=3

left: 150w HTP lamp , upgraded
right: 330w short arc metal halid lamp, original .

ywh,

so the lamp is $40, the condenser is $40, and the eballast is $60. What about the lamp holder, is it included? And is the eballast rated to plug into 110v US voltage or do we need a converter?

I just got the same Ezpro for $20

Victor

some Ezpro has the original condenser , dont need order again.

I don't not recommend this upgrade project to otherone, too hard. I can not keep the light in the box yet. can not shield light but not shield wind. I shield light with a washcloth ;-(

I got 340v DC on the original board, that is a high-power switch power supply, I can found the biggest Bridge Rectifier , contact the output to get 340v DC. may there is 340v DC if input 110v.

the switch of ballast is linkage, cantact some point on the original board, I found this secret.A system of interconnected machine elements,

you need a bigger reflector if you install a HTP lamp. like HQI.
i f not, you can choose short arc metal halid lamp, you can keep the old light system. every thing is easy

the holder is free.

Why is the short arc lamp green? Is it new or vary old?

I would expect the short arc to have better red than the HQI styled lamp, are you sure the HQI lamp is the image on the left?

I bought this lamp from ywh a few months ago, the lamp is very bright and it came with a nice lamp box. Only thing wrong with it was the ballast made a bunch of noise. I was thinking of carring the lamp box in my store.

Hi arizonavideo

yes, the HQI lamp(HTP) is the image on the left, but the difference of colour is not so large. the digital camera aggrandize this difference.

that like a nomal SONY TV and TOSHIBA TV in a shop, play as same time, the SONY have better red than the TOSHIBA.

Hi johnzo1995
this ballast is not that for you. your is 110-220v AC input, But this need 340v DC input, I can not recommend this to USA(110V), I dont now how to get 340v in USA. but 220v AC to 340v DC is easy.

340v DC ballast has no fan, need install in the windway, a little wind is OK.

ywh: If you set the camera white balance to "daylight" or "sunlight" in the menu it will not re balance every picture so they will be more reflective of the PJ image.

The links are not working for me right now, is the lamp just a 250 watt HTP running at 330 watts or is it made to run at 330 watts?

Johnzo: What kind of noise does an electronic ballast make? Is it a stock 330 watt electronic or a coil and core?

Do you know I played 2 projectors at the same time? projected the 2 imge onto a screen.

2 projectors , 150 watt HTP running at 150 watts on left screen, 330 watt HTP running at 330 watts on right screen

Did you simply plug the 150 watt bulb into the 330 watt ballast, because the image on the left looks brighter than the image on the right.

Is this the case in real life.

This is original Ezpro 505 lamphouse, 400w/36v haloid lamp. no ballast, can not run 150 watt HTP bulb .

I disassembly every thing in the 585. Cleared the mirror, fresnel, polarizer, LCD,fresnel,mirror, lens. 585 is brighter now. but 150w is like 330w yet

Can you post the complete specks of the lamp?

What is the rated wattage (stock), color temp, CRI, arc length and life span?



Are you selling them through 18 wheeler? I might pick one up just for a try if it has a good CRI and color temp.

Thanks

Hi everyone!
I can not upload picture now, only 66k .imp, how about you?

"Upload failed. Please ask the administrator to ensure the uploads directory is available"

link is not OK too.


rated wattage 150w
color temp 1000k
CRI, what is CRT?
arc length same as HQI
life 6000Hrs

I have no other one in my hand now, do yo have 220v AC ?

So the lamp is really a 150 watt standard HQI made to run at 10,000K color temp? Are you sure the color temp is 10,000K I have three 10,000K lamps and they are no good for PJ at any power level, way too blue.

Is the lamp made for PJ or just a standard HQI?

The CRI is the Color Rendering Index. This is how well the lam will reproduce all the colors in the spectrum. Most MH lamps are week in the deep red color they make and also make too much orange thus making some things red look orange.

I took a screen shot one day of a EYE lamp spectrum, this is one of the better lamps out there with a CRI at 90.

http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...st&p=175326

I have a good collection of spectrum's from most of the common lamps and all of the longer arc lamps except the ceramic have a problem in the deep red color they make. The ceramic is really special here with some great deep 650nm red color.


I see OSRAM is listing the 250 watt Ceramic as "NEW"



Would any one like to give them a call to see if the darn 250 ceramic is really for sale?

The Osram link is dead. You need to look for MH lamps and then ceramic.

http://catalog.myosram.com/default.asp?~language=EN

AZ, I have the lamp, I can send it to you for testing, I have the ballast also.

I see that they have an HCI-TS 250W/942 using an Fc2 base listed as new. CRI 98.

Got Red ? This lamp does !

Click to view attachment

I can sure the color temp is 10,000K , the factory wrote 10000K on the bulb, and we have compared 6500k with this 10000K. the 10000K has great white image, but 6500k looks like yellow when 2 image show at same time.

we did this Comparison a month , asked the factory to change the color temp again and again, this 10000K color temp was the best choose. no too blue. I think your 10000K is a special aquarium lamp.

lamp Is made for PJ , but the the shell is standard HQI, the factory has the secret metal halid formula for a new HQI , and new pole, the size of bulb is same as HQI.

I know the Color Rendering Index, but the factory have not wrote this , can I test it? how to do?

where are this original pic on this forums?
http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/uploads/pos...-1154094528.jpg

from other man, not mine

the girl
150w