Alrighty then, this (hopefully) will be my final build .

I've decided to go with the 10.6" and the MST controller from Johnzo which I haven't bought yet until I dig and collected enough change from inbetween some couches . I'm still contemplating on whether going the short throw or the long throw route. But in the meantime I'm playing with the design. I've also decided not to go with the wood build method and hopefully stick with metal and aluminum as the frame but with a little twist with a plastic housing....yeah, I know...'PLASTIC?, you'll burn the house down'. Well, hopefully, I'll enclosed the lamp engine safe enough to prevent that . Who knows, this may turn out to be a bust and just return to wood but I can't help but explore the possibilities on this concept.

Anyways, while shopping I'm always looking at things for innovative ways to throw into a future or current build when I came upon these....don't laugh (to hard) for some reason they look too cool to pass up, besides at 4 clams each it couldn't hurt to bring home a pair and toss the idea around.

Yep, them's 12 inch high plastic trash containers The design of the containers caught my eye and, hey, saves me on painting

I'm sure you all have some comments on this so lets hear them, but...be gentle

Here's what I'm planning on for the long throw and maybe the besseler 18" or the pro lens. Look's to be safer even for the short throw, eh?

They do look pretty cool in the design and all. as long as you keep the heat under control I dont see why you couldnt use the plastic for the housing, I have been toying with the idea myself only using the same engraving plastic I use for the name plates and power module plates. modding the computer case was another idea I have been tossing around too. I will be checking in to see what you come up with!!

I'm doing 10.6" build as well (Ijust need my parts to get here), I have been thinking about a a wood frame using 1/2" square rod, and them covering it in either aluminum or ome nice hard shine plastic

Unfortunately, the rear part of the container would be large enough for the smaller lamp like the 150w cdm or powerball or however they're called. Having the larger lamps position vertically and not horizontal to the lcd would have the mogul and the tip of the lamp protruding out of the container which would ruin it's appearance. I'd like to go with a 250w or higher if there is such a lamp in the 150w design and keep the lamp vertical (base up or down) as thats the only way I'd prefer the lamp to be oriented in any of my builds regardless of lamp size. Perhaps I'll just hold on to the 2 container design for a smaller/less resolution lcd like a 7-8" since I can move the lamp closer for maximun brightness and coverage as I've determined since building my son's portable dvd pj. Geezz...that would be build number 5...

BTW folks, anybody know of the smaller lamps coming in at 250w don't hesitate to drop a line cause I tried searching and found none.

This is the hard part for me as well. As I'd have to build a tapered frame in the shape of the trash containers - the easiest way would be to use wood just to get exact measurements and be off by less then 3mm. Wish I had tools like machinist use.

I had a similiar idea to use a trash bin.

Costco sells a stainless steel narrow rectangular bin with a cool pop up lid. It is about 30" X 16" X 12" (an estimate), and costs only $35 dollars. If you loose the plastic liner it might work well.

You can check out the latest from OSRAM stable
a 17.5cm long new HCI-TM 250w PB 940/NDL.It is with circular lamp.

I wish I could find a US suppler for a 5200K 250 watt lamp but I have not found any. They are used a lot over seas.

This is one place.

http://izzotek.com/achat/index.php?catid=29

You could try your luck at Germen

http://cgi.ebay.de/250w-hqi-Brenner-Osram-...1QQcmdZViewItem

I can sell it at 20$ if anybody intends to have it.I have HQI-T 250w W/D POWERSTAR.

I guess I should have clarified when I said 'drop a line' I meant pm me lets not use my plog as a trading post.

Still collecting parts for the build and so far things are getting interesting. I ordered the 10.6" kit from johnzo's site which I'm still patiently waiting for.

Hmmmm....decisions, decisions...Thanks to a generous trade with Spankdamonkey (thanks bud ) I now have a 330mm trip to play with which I plan to couple with a 330mm fresz. Beside it is another 457mm Besseler I bought in the past that I might pair up with a 550mm or 500mm fresz. Big difference, eh?

Also, received my cheap knock off of the 575w HMI, 5500k. Brand name is Luxlite which I'm assuming is about 400hrs lifespan (couldn't find much on specs for it) but I'm crossing my fingers for more even with underpowering it. At 38 US, I couldn't pass it up on cheapbay . Still, I'm liking the size difference compared to the older version of the 400w HQI. This should fit well within the box and tight space. Oh, and this puppy is going vertical, apparently, these HMI's are universally positionable. Just need to find the SFc-10 socket mount for it

BTW, the HQI's for sale, just pm me if interested.

Holy Sh$T look at the size of that lense

No worries on the trip, hope it works perfect for ya!

Have been looking for a SFc-10 socket for a week.
They want you to buy a case of them, but I think I might have a connection.
I called the manufacture and they might hook me up.
I will let you know.


Regards,
Traynor

I used a Fc2 socket and made new leads for it, It didn't take too long.

The main thing thats hard is finding new small bolts to replace the stock rivets that must be drilled out.

My lamp mount

http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/uploads/pos...-1150225392.jpg

You might want fiberglass shielded lead wire which are hard to find.

I puled the shield from the old socket leads and replaced the wire with some silver coated 12 gauge stranded wire. that took a few hours because of the vary tight fit.

If you make a lamp mount it must not put any stress on the lamp ends or they will break.

Still collecting parts and it seems I just received the 10.6" kit from Johnzo, thanks bud!!
Click to view attachment

Getting close to starting and it's getting exciting all over again. Think I'll dress up for Holloween this year....NAH...

Traynor, any word? If I can't find these sockets I may just DIY one using cement and a mold (wonder if cement is conductive)

ArizonaV, hear what your saying but I'd hate to mess up my only double ender sockets (modify) especially if I plan to use those for another lamp. Thanks for dropping in, bud.

Instead of underdriving the HMI 575s, why not just overdrive the HQI 150's. They have about the same arc length, require about the same voltage (95V). both made of quartz. The difference would be price. The generic HQI lamps can be found for $16 shipped each, while the HMIs are $50 shipped.

I guesse the real difference would be cooling and UV. The 150s have an outer glass that would reduce cooling, but provides a UV stop. The HMIs should be easier to cool without the outer glass shield, but emit a lot of UV.

See here for the generic HQI 150 lamp with UV shield. also, the G12 base is vertical and easier to work with.

Anyhow, I think that's the direction I might go in with the short arc, high intensity route.

Hey thanks phutton but that link didn't work. I do have that Phillips 150w cdm, hmmm...wonder if I can use the 250w ballast from Natural Newb for this? AV, what do you think?

Let me try it again.

Here it is.

I can't see why it wouldn't work with the 250 watt ballast, as long as it is pulse start. I'm putting a 600 watt standard house dimmer on the input of mine to control the voltage. That way you can rduce the rated voltage if you need. This was suggested by Arizona in one of his posts. I think elken suggested an optimal 95 V and 1.8 amps, but others have overdriven it beyond 2 amps. don't let it go below 1.4 amps or the lamp may start to flicker.

The 250 probably would work great.

Heck, if you already have the ballast, then the lamp is $17 shipped and the G12 base is $9 + shipping. It would be a minimal investment to try it out.

Keep it enclosed, though, in case it explodes. That would be the same advice for the HMI 575, too.

Check out surplus shed. They have an aluminum mirror 40mm diameter ($2) with 35mm fl and a pyrex aspheric lens 44mm diameter with 30mm fl ($8). these are perfect (I think, ordered but haven't recieved, yet) for these small arc lamps.

Well the ballast I acquired from Newb is a S50 Ansi 250w HPS which strikes that out. I'll look into the mirror and pyrex lens however their diameter does seem a bit small which I'd have to space the lamp engine further back to cover the area of the 10.6" I was planning on using one of the 4" diameter polished ladles I have for any of the lamps with the 4.5" x 6.5"fl precon which I'm hoping will bring the engine closer to the 317mm or 330mm fresz collimator.

I did acquire a good light coverage with a smaller ladle than a 4". The engine was with the 150w cdm coupled with a 80mm dia x 125mm fl precon with a 317mm collimating fresz and a 7" portable dvd lcd when I built my son's. The distance between collimator and center of lamp was 168mm+/-, so, I'm hoping to utilize 180mm or less than 200mm with the aforemention lens/reflector for covering the 10.6". Just presumptions but thats how I work without the use of the precon calc.

Think I got lucky, seems that the 10.6" panel was a perfect fit for the computer case's inner box frame. Although, if the entire box were to flex especially with a heavy ballast in it could be disasterous. At least this box's inner frame won't be in the way towards the triplet which was the biggest concern.

Hope you don't think I'm pushing. I'm not. but Arizona just inform me in the "extreme Mod Overclocking" thread that he thinks the 250 HPS would be perfect for the 150s. so your probably still there if you want to try.

The problem I have with the 4.5 is the fl of 6.5". That essentially places the bulb about 3" from the precondensor. that might not be bad for heat reasons. With the small precondensor, I'll have to have that bugger only 7mm away from the glass. I'll definitely need a cooling solution for it. Combined with the aluminum mirror (which should be able to handle the heat) I should be able to capture about 50% of the light, according to the precondensor calculator.

I'll be using the 220 fresnel for the collimator. If you have any sources for smaller fresnels please link them. I'ld like to go with a 180, if possible (and the price don't break the bank).

Not at all phutton, every constructive suggestion is like music to my ears

This is excellent then, I'll just try the 150w after all along with the 250w and 575w. But more than likely the 575w will win as far as brightness but it's cost would not be acceptable at all unless they make them more than 3000 hrs life.

Keep pluggin P-man, liking the feedback

Oh BTW, I'm looking into bhlens.com at their fresnels especially the 500mm for the 18" (475) Beseller and maybe try a group buy, check their link to see if they have the 180mm.

Guess what, there is also a 400 Watt 100 Volt AccuArc SLI that Light Bulb Emporium advertised but they don't seem to have them on stock or a price (via email). Seems we have another contender lurking around.

Hey sim you need to stop posting all these sweet bulbs, first I buy a nice 400 watt t15 bulb and I'm all happy with it, then I see your 400 watt double ended bulb in the trading and I'm still looking for an s51 ballast to run it so I can it from you, and then today you post the nicest 400 watt bulb ever and now I want that one!! Your driving me nuts sim!

Welcome to my world mdm, I was up to 8 bulbs at one time

Man, That is a perfect fit! you are really tempting me to gut an old desktop pc I have to make another 10.6 folded build.

AT case, still juggling spacing and what not in mi peebrain.

Well, been examining the 10.6" since it came in and after many discussions in kawana's PLOG regarding his 10.6" I've decided to attempt the inevitable. And guess what. Came up like butter...WOOHOO!!! Seems now I have antiglare on the second polarizer on front of this panel while the first polar that came off is very much clear. Since I don't want to go through another case of graining I think I'll use MMP (Mother's Mag Polish) as my weapon of choice this time around.

Here's the panel with the first polar taken off, notice the antiglare on the second polar not reflecting the flourescents above clearly.
Click to view attachment

And the first polar's reflectiveness.
Click to view attachment

OH BTW DAZZZ, THANKS A HEAP, BUD!!!

Glad I could help.
I don’t think I would attempt to remove the A/G if I had the chance again. I agree it’s safer to go the polishing route.
Then again there is always paint stripper.

BTW. I think it’s just a standard linear polarizer not a circular polar.

Paint stripper??? Now, who would be stupid enough to do that??

Yeah, I just crossed them and it's linear alright.

so, you were able to just peel the AG off without a water soak or anything? did the polorizer come off with it?

Are there any risks associated with polishing? I really want to do something about my AG, but I'm pretty damn nervous about destroying a second panel.

p.s. Sim, do you happen to know if Mother's Mag is available at Home Depot?

No, sorry let me clarify more on this. The discussion in kawana's PLOG was whether these 10.6" panels have 2 layers of polarizers ON FRONT SIDE of it. The BACK SIDE has only 1 layer with 2 other layers of some reflective silver film for brightness enhancement for use as a laptop. What I had done is found the first layer of polar ON FRONT of the panel and peeled that off revealing the second layer which has antiglare on it. The first layer never had antiglare etched on it, it was just a clear polarizing film. What Samsung had done to this 10.6" was turned it into a 'Glare panel or a Gloss panel' by adding (encapsulating) to the first polarizer which had 'antiglare' on it with another 'clear' polarizer on top of that.


The only risk I know of while using MMP (Mothers) is not to put stress on the ffc ribbons while your polishing the antiglare. I lay mine (other panels) flat on a towel as well as the ribbons and slide the towel over the table while polishing at all angles. Just using pressure with my fingers as if pushing a thumbtac to a wall and not with great force that would crack the panel. It takes alot of elbow grease to do this and I have gone over a 7" panel with about 12 applications until I was satisfied it was gleaming like glass. Don't use a power tool like a dremel to polish either, I made that mistake hoping to make it quicker but it just ate thru the anitglare and the TAC revealing the polar underneath.

Oh, and Mother's can be bought at auto parts and supply stores.

Yo SIM. What direction are you leaning in terms of mounts for that 575? Home-made like AV or have you sourced something else? I've partially gutted my lightgate (and the rest of my box for that matter) getting ready for my WUXGA rebuild and am trying to plan ahead for any and all possible eventualities - T15 ceramic, 575 double and/or single ended, who-knows?

We just got our LCD a little less than a week ago, so it's likely the same as yours. You discovered the glossy front is really just a sheet overtop dull AG? How did you remove that top layer? We're removing the reflective rear layers, and coating the ffc's with infinities silicone II method tonite... we might as well get this front layer off too. Would there be any downside to waiting to polish it out after we've put it in our testing system and fired it up a few times, for comparisons sake?

psy.

Here, this may help you out. I'm helping another new member named 'kawana' with regards to this as well. Good luck.

BTW, the front of the panel was not just a glossy sheet, it was another 'non-antiglared' polarizer placed on top of the another 'antiglared' polarizer. They were both set linear with each other.

When I meant by polishing, I meant the 'antiglared' polarizer only. You don't need to polish the 'non-antiglared' one.

Don't know D, I'm in the same boat still debating myself. But you know me, I likes lots and lots of brightness!!

Thought this would be interesting to show. Did some cleaning up in the rec room and I figured I'd take ole' bessy (last build) out to the garage since it's not being used. While taking a break I glanced over to it sitting by the 'probable' newer version and saw a big difference. So I placed it on top for a better comparison. Just hope I get it to work with such confined space.

BTW, I'll be parting a few things off the behemoth in the coming soon. Like the 18" trip and the 15" lcd & controller.

Click to view attachment

Wow, that will be sweet if you can make it work that small!

Hope so too Newb, so far measurements from precon calc to throw calc to other measurements I've researched here in the forum including measurements of my own from precon experiment to last build - it's really cutting it close and seriously have been lucky so far. It's a matter of applying the parts and crossing fingers that everything fits into place.

On another note, I took G-Sharks lead on that Proxima 9100 on ebay and should be on it's way (thanx G'). Just hope the 575w ballast still functions, if not, then maybe I could scavange parts off of it for the build instead.
Click to view attachment

I THINK that Proxima 9100 uses an 8.4" LCd. You might be able to put your 10.6 incher in there if they leave room enough on the frame (I think you only need a few cm on each side). It might be a quick and dirty way to get a desktop going.

No problem my man, glad I could help! It will be a little bit a of pain getting the thing parted out, but it's sure worth it. I hope the ballast works too; it seems from jonjandran's experience with the 9100 ballast that they are nice ballasts.



The 9100 actually uses a 10" LCD .

Can't say the thought hasn't crossed my mind but I really would prefer have built something from scratch. It just puts and gets more - wow! Besides, it appears to have an OHP look to it that I'm not to keen on.

Hope the ballast and light engine turns out as you say G, dam thing cost more to ship than the bid.

Looks nice so far. I can't believe how big the Besseler is, that 330 looks so small.

It does appear to be huge at that angle, here's a better one of the entire family which includes the Pro lens. I wonder what kind of trip is on the Proxima, this would be interesting guttin' it.

Click to view attachment