The ASK projector was free so overall cost should hover around $20-25 all told. I'll probably mount the portable inside the projector as there's ample space around the front.
Here we go again!
Victor
Full Version: Ask-insignia 9.2 Retrofit
I have managed to secure a 9.2" Insignia portable dvd from ebay for about $15.00. The player itself is bad, but it does have a composite input for external a/v devices. Also, the wiring is the same an my 7" Insignia so once I find some spare telephone cable I'll be good to go. The a/g will be removed via water/paper towel method.
The ASK projector was free so overall cost should hover around $20-25 all told. I'll probably mount the portable inside the projector as there's ample space around the front.
Here we go again!
Victor
The ASK projector was free so overall cost should hover around $20-25 all told. I'll probably mount the portable inside the projector as there's ample space around the front.
Here we go again!
Victor
Whats the res on the 9.2" Insignia victor-eyd.
Probably not much better than the 7" Insignia (ie 234i resolution). As usual, specs on these panels are hard to find but for the price, I'll be more than happy with it.
Victor
Victor
How are you getting these free ask projectors?
freecycle.org
This guy from a church was giving away some overhead projectors for free (great, more projectors to build
), and in the back corner of the closet was a pristine condition ASK 970. I asked if he needed it and he said "no, you can have it". 
The funny thing about all this is that I learned about freecycle from lumenlab and the week I signed up on freecycle, the projector deal showed up.
Victor
This guy from a church was giving away some overhead projectors for free (great, more projectors to build
), and in the back corner of the closet was a pristine condition ASK 970. I asked if he needed it and he said "no, you can have it". The funny thing about all this is that I learned about freecycle from lumenlab and the week I signed up on freecycle, the projector deal showed up.
Victor
Looks like a neat site! Lots of opportunity to get cool stuff that other people don't want 
Okay,
I've taken apart the inside. Lots of space, but now a problem. Hopefully jonjandran or savo can assist.
I've taken apart the inside. Lots of space, but now a problem. Hopefully jonjandran or savo can assist.
Gutted
Now the problem. In removing the video main board, I'm pretty sure I removed a trigger switch located somewhere on the video board which turns the lamp and fan on. So the question is , how do I bypass this and allow the power supply board to operate once I flip the power switch.
Now the problem. In removing the video main board, I'm pretty sure I removed a trigger switch located somewhere on the video board which turns the lamp and fan on. So the question is , how do I bypass this and allow the power supply board to operate once I flip the power switch.
I am also working on a ASK 970. I am at the point of the lcd frame is ready for it's 10.6" lcd and the contoller brd fitting the side panel.
My goal is to convert the 970 but to allow for it to go back to it's original state.
I know your route is cheaper, but the 970 is such a great enclosure to use that it's a shame not to use the 10.6" + controller with 720p capabilities.
I have taken a piece of aluminum from an opaque porjector and re-created the mounting plate for the two power supplies and the controller brd. inputs. Painted flat black (grill,high heat paint) and drilled holes for the input connectors.
Lcd frame has been cut for the new lcd, applied strips of ac/heating foil tape to cover the gaps and painted flat black. Original lcd can still be used.
I am undecided on retrofitting the keyboard.
Jonjandran placed his on the top cover. I am thinking of placing mine just above the inputs on the bottom half of the enclosure. This way when you open up the unit, you don't have to disconnect the cable going to the controller brd. Also would use some dark grey vinyl to cover the area of the original keyboard. Later I could always remove it to take it back to it's original state. But I am not sure if I want to drill holes in the side for the new keybrd.
I see that there is a thermal fuse on the back panel of the light engine. I plan to keep this in place as an added precaution.
Will also probably use the original Ir led brd with the new controller if compatible.
Will add pics soon.
B0SC0
My goal is to convert the 970 but to allow for it to go back to it's original state.
I know your route is cheaper, but the 970 is such a great enclosure to use that it's a shame not to use the 10.6" + controller with 720p capabilities.
I have taken a piece of aluminum from an opaque porjector and re-created the mounting plate for the two power supplies and the controller brd. inputs. Painted flat black (grill,high heat paint) and drilled holes for the input connectors.
Lcd frame has been cut for the new lcd, applied strips of ac/heating foil tape to cover the gaps and painted flat black. Original lcd can still be used.
I am undecided on retrofitting the keyboard.
Jonjandran placed his on the top cover. I am thinking of placing mine just above the inputs on the bottom half of the enclosure. This way when you open up the unit, you don't have to disconnect the cable going to the controller brd. Also would use some dark grey vinyl to cover the area of the original keyboard. Later I could always remove it to take it back to it's original state. But I am not sure if I want to drill holes in the side for the new keybrd.
I see that there is a thermal fuse on the back panel of the light engine. I plan to keep this in place as an added precaution.
Will also probably use the original Ir led brd with the new controller if compatible.
Will add pics soon.
B0SC0
Thanks for the pics. I am assuming these two boards make up the switch for power
Not sure what you mean, but these are two switching power supplies.
Each having a 2 amp fuse.
Voltages to supply the controller brd and the eballast brd.
B0SC0
Thanks for the pics. I am assuming these two boards make up the switch for power
Each having a 2 amp fuse.
Voltages to supply the controller brd and the eballast brd.
B0SC0
QUOTE (victor-eyd @ Sep 25 2007, 10:18 AM) 
Thanks for the pics. I am assuming these two boards make up the switch for power
Alright, I've isolated the two board. I've reattached the power cables and still no power.
And now I'm thinking it has something to do with the switch itself. You can see it on the left center
There was a cable that connected to the video board (its been removed so you see the exposed slots) so how do it trick the switch?
And now I'm thinking it has something to do with the switch itself. You can see it on the left center
There was a cable that connected to the video board (its been removed so you see the exposed slots) so how do it trick the switch?
Click to view attachmentWhen you power everything up, are you holding down the case switch?
It is on the edge of the lower case above the on off switch.
I just wedge a screwdriver in between the two gaps in the plastic to depress the push button down.(This is normally done when the top cover is on)
The on/off main power switch that you disconnected the cable from should be used to opearte the two power supplies and controller board's power input. Not sure of what that is yet, haven't gotten that far. Most likely +5v.
Depends how you what to power this projector.
You probably want to turn on main power switch that will supply power to the power supplies,controller board, eballast, lamp,and fan(via thermostat).
I just started drawing up a quick schematic.
This is what I have so far.
B0SC0
It is on the edge of the lower case above the on off switch.
I just wedge a screwdriver in between the two gaps in the plastic to depress the push button down.(This is normally done when the top cover is on)
The on/off main power switch that you disconnected the cable from should be used to opearte the two power supplies and controller board's power input. Not sure of what that is yet, haven't gotten that far. Most likely +5v.
Depends how you what to power this projector.
You probably want to turn on main power switch that will supply power to the power supplies,controller board, eballast, lamp,and fan(via thermostat).
I just started drawing up a quick schematic.
This is what I have so far.
B0SC0
QUOTE (victor-eyd @ Sep 25 2007, 12:20 PM)
Alright, I've isolated the two board. I've reattached the power cables and still no power.
And now I'm thinking it has something to do with the switch itself. You can see it on the left center
There was a cable that connected to the video board (its been removed so you see the exposed slots) so how do it trick the switch?
And now I'm thinking it has something to do with the switch itself. You can see it on the left center
There was a cable that connected to the video board (its been removed so you see the exposed slots) so how do it trick the switch?
Thanks Bosco and jonjandran for the info but I am no electrician unfortunately so I'm gonna need more than schematics to figure this out. I understand (sorta) what you've written Bosco but if you could show me via the pics I've taken it would be a greater help. Yes, I've seen the little plunger button above the switch. When you close the panel, it pushes the plunger down. I'll try to use a screwdriver or tape next time; perhaps since the panel isnt screwed down it might not close all the way. But even after that, I still have no clue of what to do.
I also do not have a voltmeter nor have the knowledge to understand how it works. Don't ask me how I managed to build two diy projectors with the scant info that I know LOL.
Victor
I also do not have a voltmeter nor have the knowledge to understand how it works. Don't ask me how I managed to build two diy projectors with the scant info that I know LOL.
Victor
Click to view attachment
With this update you should be able to match things up a little better.
Wires are color coded and usually grouped together to form a cable with a connector at the end.
My pics are labeled to show the color of the wires and the voltages and grounds on them.
Be careful with the heavy BLACK, BLUE, and GRN/YEL wires, they are running 110v AC.
Also all the wires attached to the EBALLAST brd.
HEAVY BLACK = AC LINE
HEAVY BLUE = AC NEUTRAL
HEAVY GRN/YEL = AC GROUND
They can kill you!!!
B0SC0
With this update you should be able to match things up a little better.
Wires are color coded and usually grouped together to form a cable with a connector at the end.
My pics are labeled to show the color of the wires and the voltages and grounds on them.
Be careful with the heavy BLACK, BLUE, and GRN/YEL wires, they are running 110v AC.
Also all the wires attached to the EBALLAST brd.
HEAVY BLACK = AC LINE
HEAVY BLUE = AC NEUTRAL
HEAVY GRN/YEL = AC GROUND
They can kill you!!!
B0SC0
QUOTE (victor-eyd @ Sep 25 2007, 07:34 PM)
Thanks Bosco and jonjandran for the info but I am no electrician unfortunately so I'm gonna need more than schematics to figure this out. I understand (sorta) what you've written Bosco but if you could show me via the pics I've taken it would be a greater help. Yes, I've seen the little plunger button above the switch. When you close the panel, it pushes the plunger down. I'll try to use a screwdriver or tape next time; perhaps since the panel isnt screwed down it might not close all the way. But even after that, I still have no clue of what to do.
I also do not have a voltmeter nor have the knowledge to understand how it works. Don't ask me how I managed to build two diy projectors with the scant info that I know LOL.
Victor
I also do not have a voltmeter nor have the knowledge to understand how it works. Don't ask me how I managed to build two diy projectors with the scant info that I know LOL.
Victor
2 months ago I could have helped you. But it's been way to long since I disassembled my 960.
There were 2 sets of small black wires that went into the small board in your pic. They were the 12v triggers for the switch for the ballast.
But without a multimeter and knowledge of how to use one I would say it would be impossible to talk you through it now.
There were 2 sets of small black wires that went into the small board in your pic. They were the 12v triggers for the switch for the ballast.
But without a multimeter and knowledge of how to use one I would say it would be impossible to talk you through it now.
Thanks jonjandran for trying.
Bosco, I opened the pdf file and here's my question: I'm assuming the schematics you drew up follow the wiring from point to point, board to board, just as they show in the pictures I've shown. But what I can't figure out is where on the schematic do I make the change, whether to solder together, insert something, or bypass a point on the boards to get the lamp and fan to work once you turn on the switch. That's the problem I have with looking at the schematic. All of the other plugs and cables I've removed attached to the controller board (the one with the video hookups) on one location or another so from what I'm seeing there has to be something done to make the switch active and turn on the lamp and fan.
Victor
Bosco, I opened the pdf file and here's my question: I'm assuming the schematics you drew up follow the wiring from point to point, board to board, just as they show in the pictures I've shown. But what I can't figure out is where on the schematic do I make the change, whether to solder together, insert something, or bypass a point on the boards to get the lamp and fan to work once you turn on the switch. That's the problem I have with looking at the schematic. All of the other plugs and cables I've removed attached to the controller board (the one with the video hookups) on one location or another so from what I'm seeing there has to be something done to make the switch active and turn on the lamp and fan.
Victor
Here's a question, which could actually solve my problem completely, save finding a way to turn on the fans: The reliability of the ASK ballast system has always been suspect, jonjandran's ASK suffered a failure, and I have no doubt mine will as well in the future.
As to the insignia panel, yes its low cost but as time and money permit, I will probably get the 10.6 or even the 7.2 to replace.
What is a good lamp and ballast replacement for the ASK. The opening is large enough to accomodate obviously the 575w but how about a ceramic or even a MH?
Any thoughts?
Victor
As to the insignia panel, yes its low cost but as time and money permit, I will probably get the 10.6 or even the 7.2 to replace.
What is a good lamp and ballast replacement for the ASK. The opening is large enough to accomodate obviously the 575w but how about a ceramic or even a MH?
Any thoughts?
Victor
Click to view attachment
Latest and greatest. This should help you make the modification.
Notice in the modification area, if you are not hooking it up to a MST controller,
then you want to make sure that the voltage you need is +12vdc for your board.
If it is not +12vdc, you will still need to make an additional modification.
B0SC0
Latest and greatest. This should help you make the modification.
Notice in the modification area, if you are not hooking it up to a MST controller,
then you want to make sure that the voltage you need is +12vdc for your board.
If it is not +12vdc, you will still need to make an additional modification.
B0SC0
QUOTE (victor-eyd @ Sep 25 2007, 09:21 PM)
Thanks jonjandran for trying.
Bosco, I opened the pdf file and here's my question: I'm assuming the schematics you drew up follow the wiring from point to point, board to board, just as they show in the pictures I've shown. But what I can't figure out is where on the schematic do I make the change, whether to solder together, insert something, or bypass a point on the boards to get the lamp and fan to work once you turn on the switch. That's the problem I have with looking at the schematic. All of the other plugs and cables I've removed attached to the controller board (the one with the video hookups) on one location or another so from what I'm seeing there has to be something done to make the switch active and turn on the lamp and fan.
Victor
Bosco, I opened the pdf file and here's my question: I'm assuming the schematics you drew up follow the wiring from point to point, board to board, just as they show in the pictures I've shown. But what I can't figure out is where on the schematic do I make the change, whether to solder together, insert something, or bypass a point on the boards to get the lamp and fan to work once you turn on the switch. That's the problem I have with looking at the schematic. All of the other plugs and cables I've removed attached to the controller board (the one with the video hookups) on one location or another so from what I'm seeing there has to be something done to make the switch active and turn on the lamp and fan.
Victor
Discard the one on the right its not needed.
The one on the left is needed make sure its 12-15v DC.
see the 12v input there is a two wire connector, it will activate the ballast etc....
The one on the left is needed make sure its 12-15v DC.
see the 12v input there is a two wire connector, it will activate the ballast etc....
With mine i went a little crazy and added a turbo timer so it cools the unit down when i turn it off and used power from the LCD to power on the ballast, fan etc....
Thanks savo for the photos but could make it a little clearer which you mean by "left" and "right". i'm a little lost on the description
Victor
Victor
see the one circle with red? thats the one that you should use for you LCD power and ballast switch.
QUOTE (savo @ Sep 26 2007, 05:44 PM)
see the one circle with red? thats the one that you should use for you LCD power and ballast switch.
Savo,
The one you speak of keeping is this circuit board, the smaller one next to the back of the power switch. What should I use to provide a 12-15v power, perhaps a 12v or 15v wall wart?
the smaller one will provide you with the DC 12V power.
Actually, the smaller power supply is +15vdc.
Has a label on it stating so, plus I confirmed it by measuring the voltage.
The ASK Impression 970 uses the larger power supply which has a +12vdc
that powers the relay.
I am not saying that the +15vdc won't work, but just staying as close to the original design as possible. The +15vdc power supply would be overdriving the relay.
B0SC0
Has a label on it stating so, plus I confirmed it by measuring the voltage.
The ASK Impression 970 uses the larger power supply which has a +12vdc
that powers the relay.
I am not saying that the +15vdc won't work, but just staying as close to the original design as possible. The +15vdc power supply would be overdriving the relay.
B0SC0
QUOTE (savo @ Sep 27 2007, 02:31 AM)
the smaller one will provide you with the DC 12V power.
One other note. Keep both power supplies. If the larger blows(multi-voltage including +12vdc), you could then use the smaller power supply(+15vdc) along with a small voltage regulator circuit to have +12vdc output. So, I wouldn't discard anything.
B0SC0
B0SC0
no not really, you power the fan, LCD, and relay the power supply is fine.
heres a pic of my completed PJ.
savo, are you saying that you power the LCD controller board, fan,and the fan relay with +15vdc?
The LCD controller board states +12vdc power input as well as the fan, and fan relay.
Even though I mentioned this may work, it may not work for long. The relay probably could handle it(although by supplying a higher voltage you are slamming those contacts harder together,decreasing optimum life), the fan could probably handle it(but also decreasing optimum life), and the contrller board wasn't designed for +15vdc. Who knows how long that will last. I want mine to last and I plan on sticking to the original parameters.
B0SC0
The LCD controller board states +12vdc power input as well as the fan, and fan relay.
Even though I mentioned this may work, it may not work for long. The relay probably could handle it(although by supplying a higher voltage you are slamming those contacts harder together,decreasing optimum life), the fan could probably handle it(but also decreasing optimum life), and the contrller board wasn't designed for +15vdc. Who knows how long that will last. I want mine to last and I plan on sticking to the original parameters.
B0SC0
QUOTE (savo @ Sep 27 2007, 07:13 PM)
no not really, you power the fan, LCD, and relay the power supply is fine.
Click to view attachment
victor-eyd,
Newest update of schematic has some embedded pictures to help you out.
B0SC0
victor-eyd,
Newest update of schematic has some embedded pictures to help you out.
B0SC0
OHHH pictures!!! 
Thanks BOSCO for the diagram. However, I am still on the fence since I'm worried that after spending the components needed to retrofit, I am not that confident that I will wire everything correctly and the bulb and fan works.
I'm already researching alternates just in case so I've come up with a few possibilities, especially if I go forward with the 10.6 option.
ballast
http://www.hellolights.com/index.asp?PageA...amp;ProdID=1324
bulb
http://www.hellolights.com/index.asp?PageA...D&ProdID=33
ballast #2
http://stores.miva.com/express/merchant.mv...;Category_Code=
bulb #2
?? is it this - Order Code CDM 150/TD/942
Victor
I'm already researching alternates just in case so I've come up with a few possibilities, especially if I go forward with the 10.6 option.
ballast
http://www.hellolights.com/index.asp?PageA...amp;ProdID=1324
bulb
http://www.hellolights.com/index.asp?PageA...D&ProdID=33
ballast #2
http://stores.miva.com/express/merchant.mv...;Category_Code=
bulb #2
?? is it this - Order Code CDM 150/TD/942
Victor
Click to view attachment
I decided to redo the keyboard layout from the 10.6" controller.
Here is a pic of the new keyboard and new decal(compared to the original).
Underneath the original decal there were another set of holes.
So,I decided to take advantage of this and have a different layout
with bigger push buttons.
B0SC0
I decided to redo the keyboard layout from the 10.6" controller.
Here is a pic of the new keyboard and new decal(compared to the original).
Underneath the original decal there were another set of holes.
So,I decided to take advantage of this and have a different layout
with bigger push buttons.
B0SC0
Click to view attachment
Here is the new keyboard compared with the MST controller keyboard.
Has a red led for standby and blue for power.
Because I used a perforated circuit board,
I am hoping enough light leaks out to light up the buttons.
Or I might add a white led to the bottom of the keyboard.
Here is the new keyboard compared with the MST controller keyboard.
Has a red led for standby and blue for power.
Because I used a perforated circuit board,
I am hoping enough light leaks out to light up the buttons.
Or I might add a white led to the bottom of the keyboard.
Funny thing about ebay. Sometimes when you buy something cheap because they say its broken, you get it but its not broken at all.
I recently won a bid for a Philips PET1002 10.2 portable dvd player with (I believe) 480p/i native resolution. It was clearly better-looking than the other 10" players from insignia and others (which I know are 234i only) but I only bid for $30 total and shipped and when I received it, it was still in its original box with ALL of the items still inside, not even touched! Even the manual was still in its original shape. I played and entire movie on it and it has no dead pixels and other than a slightly dodgy dvd tray cover, it works perfectly.
So i'm wondering what happen to the broken one I did win?...
In any case, the lcd needed for this project is relegated to my 9.2" 234i insignia since I still have it and just use the portable for, well, portable use. Pity, it would have a made great panel for the Ask
Victor
I recently won a bid for a Philips PET1002 10.2 portable dvd player with (I believe) 480p/i native resolution. It was clearly better-looking than the other 10" players from insignia and others (which I know are 234i only) but I only bid for $30 total and shipped and when I received it, it was still in its original box with ALL of the items still inside, not even touched! Even the manual was still in its original shape. I played and entire movie on it and it has no dead pixels and other than a slightly dodgy dvd tray cover, it works perfectly.
So i'm wondering what happen to the broken one I did win?...
In any case, the lcd needed for this project is relegated to my 9.2" 234i insignia since I still have it and just use the portable for, well, portable use. Pity, it would have a made great panel for the Ask
Victor
Well, it looks like my ASK is finally going 480. I managed to win on ebay an insignia 10.2 which has a supposed resolution of 800x480 for only $20. At the very least, I'll be able to watch HD resolution with some degree of happiness- at least better than the 234i.
I have another ohp which I'll gut to make that projector but for now this project isn't costing me an arm and a leg...yet
Victor
I have another ohp which I'll gut to make that projector but for now this project isn't costing me an arm and a leg...yet
Victor
just got my insignia 10.2. Easy to strip as usual and the price was very affordable ($20 for the unit- $20 to ship). And the size seems just right that no mods will be needed for the tray opening.
Pics to be posted soon
Victor
Pics to be posted soon
Victor
I just got that very same player, Victor. I can't test mine though, as they sent me the DC adapter instead of the AC adapter. The real kicker? My car (With which I could have used the DC adapter) broke down a couple days before I recieved it. I finally got a new car just last night and I'm still waiting on the AC adapter. 
At any rate, good to hear it's an easy strip, though I plan to toy around with it while I accrue other parts. Does it look nice, all fired up?
EDIT: I forgot to ask. Was the anti-glare just a single layer on one side of the panel, or did you strip more than one layer off the panel?
At any rate, good to hear it's an easy strip, though I plan to toy around with it while I accrue other parts. Does it look nice, all fired up?
EDIT: I forgot to ask. Was the anti-glare just a single layer on one side of the panel, or did you strip more than one layer off the panel?
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