okay i wantg to build a new case just to see if i can make a smaller one , anyways can some one show me a diagram with a 120v ohp bulb, a lcd contoler, and a fan or two?? thanks

Your best bet is to start with this diagram.

http://www.lumenlab.com/protectedwiki/Simple_Wiring


Are your fans 12v or 120v? If you are putting more then one 120v fan make sure to wire them in parrellel. If you are putting more then one 12v fan wire a 120v to 12v transformer in place of the fan in the wiring diagram above.

Make sure to wire the 12v fans in parrell to the transformer but don't go over the max amerage of the transformer. (If you put the fans in series they wont spin as fast because they will be dividing the voltage among them)

ie: 3 x 300ma fans = 900ma ... so you would need a minimum 1000ma (1 amp) transformer.

roight i seen that diagram but it doesnt not help me i wont be uing a ballast , i will just be usingg a ohp lamp and fan plus a lcd very simple in theory but i just wanted to see a diagram before i tried it

Ok heres a diagram. Everything should be ok here.

If the the OHP doesnt have a mogal socket (mogal = screw in like a 60w lightbulb) then make sure to match the polarity that was originally in the projector. If it does have a mogal socket then make sure the center pin is to line. Or else you might get a shock when screwing in your light bulb from the metal strip at the bottom.

Oh and something I forgot to draw in. If there is a ground wire to the LCD control board then make sure its connected to ground.

I hope this is what you needed?

yea this gives me an idea did u make this if so thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! what if i use a outlet that i use has the 3 r\prong thingys again thanks!!

Ya I scratched it together in Google Sketchup

Oh ya I completely forgot to add the fuse. Put a 5 amp fuse in between the line and fan interlock switch. Refer to the Basic DIY PDF on the main page of the lumenlab forums.

The ground prong might need to be connected to the lcd controller. you will need to examine the controller and cord to see if they used a ground wire. If you don't use a gound, the controller might not start up. I know my LCD monitor for my computer would not work in an old house because their were no ground bonding.

Nothing else in this setup should need a ground wire. Cut off a length of extension cord and discard the female end for a cheap power cord to plug into the wall outlet. However I highly recommend buying the LL wiring kit. It makes things tidier thus safer when working with 120V.

okay hers a pic with the wires now i just removed my ballst, now the OHP bulb is going to be placed right but for now just to show me where it need to be connnected and to what wiresif u guys want a bigger pic i can get it im just not sure how to uplaod a bigger pic
Click to view attachment

just hook the bulb up to the red wire (hot to LCD) and the white wire (common) when you turn on the switch everything will turn on, when you turn it off the fans should run til the fan thermo turns them off.

TESCORP is correct but you might want to upload another picture just in case. I am

I use http://imageshack.us/. You cant depend on them for you pictures to be around forever but they are good for temporary postings.

Another think I would double check on is that your wiring is rated for 120v. I'm not sure from the tiny pic, but do make sure your using at least 14 gauge wire. If for some reason you get a dead short and your fuse/breaker don't open you dont want the wire exploding into smoke.

Just another paranoid electrician

it is ive been running it already and it came from tescorp, he build the encloure for me plus hewiored everything

ok i got it all running but when i leave it on fer more that like 10 seconds the middles of the screen start to go black and it gets bigger and bigger , i think jeffek had this problem oo could it be that my lamp is too close to the lcd?? nut the pic quialty got better, as apoded to the last lamp i ahd in it

do u guys think i need to move the light source back , i was also thinking which i had to do but make a enclourse witha folded design. i guess it could be a number of things such as colling i could prolly up that too just to be safe.

Where the light source goes also affects the placement of the fresnels. If you move the light source, then the fresnels also need to be moved.

Unless you are moving the light source to adjust where hte secondary optics focal point is.

do u think cooling could be the problem on my LCD? MY mini haas theres where my mini haas is tescorp built it for me it hass 80mm fans do u thinkk i should upgrade and to what and how many thanks

Your going to have to find out what the tempature of that enclosure is getting to. If its getting warmer then 40 degrees then it might be causing you LCD to overheat. I would buy some digital themometers and put them around the case. Or you could do the lumenlab sanctioned way and stick a meat themometer in beside the LCD.

Also check that the fans arn't pushing air into the case. Its far more efficent to have them pull the warm air out. Change the polarity on your fans if they are spining the wrong way.

A black spot in the middle of the image where there wasn't a few secs or mins ago is a definite telltale sign that your LCD is overheating. Rethink your cooling and/or put a IR reflective surface between your LCD and the lamp (lexan, laminated glass)

well i have a puiece of lxan between but it gets hot im going to try to put 120 mm fans on top of the case, maybe that wll help

I do not believe the Lexan (XL10) used by most has any real IR protection.
GE does make a version of Lexan called Lexan Solar Control IR, and it has both IR and UV protections.
I think another of the products that provides such is called Lexan Margard.

where could i score some of that?? and are you sure that 2 120mm fans wont help??

If this was directed at my mention of the IR Lexan:
I have no idea where to find it, do a search online.
I don't remember saying anything about fans not working.

oh maybe i justed asumed u meant that, im going to get a thermo so i can check the temps what is about average so everthing runs fine??

alright i tried it again with the top off and it lasted a few minutes longer but the spot can so i shut it off quick im convinced that its a heating problem , so im not going to runing until i can come up with a better soultion!, now i think the main problem is that the klight is pointing direct at the lcd of cousrse it hiting the lexan and the fresenle msyber ill back a folded ensoure to try it idk really kind frustated!! im just going to sleep on it

i was curious and i checked the temp inside the case and its over 100 degrees easy!!! i think it got up to 116 plus even when i put my hand in front of the triplet it burns, dont worry i took the screen out, now im back to how to cool it enouf!!

I had the same problem with my 10.6 when I tried it with a 400w hqi, hot spot same as you I could feel LOTS of heat at the triplet even with lexan and a 120 fan running and the top off. I never could figure out how to stop it from over heating. And since it was set up for double ended bulbs I choose to go down to a 250w hqi instead of trying to rebuild for a single ended 400w. Sooner or later I'll end up trying a 400w m59. It is stange I can use a m59 bulb with a 7" screen so I figured that a 10.6 could handle a hqi. I hope you can get it corrected.

what if its not lines up correclty could that cuase it? idk just throwing out different thingas

J3,
I lined mine up with a laser it was dead on no lense shift, still hot enough at the triplet to pull my hand away after a few seconds, light cone setup with about a 1/3 of lightsource at the point, light circle outside of rear fresnel corners 1/4" to 3/8"

How are your fans hooked up? parallel or inline they will not run at full speed if they are ran inline or if they are comsuming more power than what the transformer is rated for.

well i think i might have to make a new enclourse becasue tescorp said that i need to have my light source at leaset 220mm away from the rear fresnel. im about an inch off but i think it makes a big dererfence becasue mving it from where i had it mad the spot stay away for at least a whole minute instead of like 10 seconds, anyone have one for sale loli think i want a mini z for the 10.6

uk i have no idea they are the same way from when i got it from tescorp i have a pic on the first page if that helps

using a halogen light in such a small enclosure is going to present serious heating issues..this is why we strongly encourage the metal halide bulbs.

i have a MH lamp im just going to go back to it, hey i notice thanks the crs of most lmaps are 90 and above but will a CRI of 84 be descent , does any one know where i can source a 250MH Hqi lmap that has decent specs??

I think that most people would not be happy with a CRI of 84, but it depends on how picky you are. Here's a lamp that has specs that I like:

SYLVANIA HQI-DE250/DX

Approx. Lumens (initial - horizontal): 20,000
Approx. Lumens (mean - horizontal): 15,500
Average Rated Life - Horizontal (hr): 10,000
Base: FC2
Bulb: T9.5
Color Rendering Index (CRI): 93
Color Temperature/CCT (K): 5,000
Diameter (in): 1 3/16
Diameter (mm): 30
Family Brand Name: HQI
Fixture Requirement: E
Hot Restrike Time (min): 5-7
Lamp Finish: Clear
Light Center Length - LCL (in): 3 1/5
Light Center Length - LCL (mm): 81
Maximum Base Temperature C (F): 482
Maximum Bulb Temperature C (F): 1,202
Maximum Overall Length - MOL (in): 6 2/5
Maximum Overall Length - MOL (mm): 163
Nominal Wattage (W): 250
Operating Position: Horizontal +/- 45deg
Ordering Abbreviation: HQI-DE250/DX
Warm-up Time (min): 2-4

WOW just what im looking for THANKS have u purchased one yet or from the seller??

alright i ordered the bulb monrrow , if this doesnt work like i plan then i have a 400w setup on its way also thanks fo rhte info

Sorry, haven't checked LL for a while. Yes, I purchased one from Atlanta Light Bulbs. No problems at all. I'm slowly building my PJ, so all I've done with the lamp is a 6 hour burn in. I hope to actually project an image in a month or so.

yeah i bought the lamp then upgrade like 2 days later lol but now the whoel pj is up for sale in the trading post