I'm currently taking apart my girlfriend's casio something-or-other camera. I've been cleaning a lot of corrosion off the exposed pcb and now have realised that I need to take the lcd off completely to be able to then remove the pcb to get at the bottom side.
Corrosion under lcd...
Click to view attachment
Full Version: Salt Water And Cameras
So. On to my question. There's a connector for the lcd and it looks like this:
Click to view attachment
Anyone know the technique for removing this sort of connector?
Click to view attachment
Anyone know the technique for removing this sort of connector?
The black piece flips up, most likely.
Thanks for your reply. You were correct, a little probing and the black bit lifted up. Sadly this is what the connector looked like once released.
Click to view attachment
There are a couple of other connectors that don't look so hot either but i think this one (an lcd one) might be enough to render the camera a paperweight. This same ffc damage has already written off the mobile phone which was accompanying said camera when they went for a dip
(btw I considered repair but this connector is only 10mm across
.)
Click to view attachment
There are a couple of other connectors that don't look so hot either but i think this one (an lcd one) might be enough to render the camera a paperweight. This same ffc damage has already written off the mobile phone which was accompanying said camera when they went for a dip
(btw I considered repair but this connector is only 10mm across
.)
Does anybody else have a procedure for what to do when a piece of electronics falls in salt water? I know I do!
First, DO NOT REMOVE THE DEVICE FROM THE WATER! Corrosion will begin as soon as the air touches it.
Second, remove the battery. The voltage and salt water will (besides shorting stuff out) eat away at contacts.
Third, move the device to fresh water, and change it every few hours. The idea is to replace the salt water inside the device with fresh water. You can try to disassemble the device underwater if you like. In the end, you should be using distilled/deionized water. You can use a multimeter to see if any salt (or other ions) are in the water.
Fourth, air dry the device for a LONG time. I mean long. Think days, not hours. A little heat is OK, but nothing above what would be considered "warm" (maybe 100 F).
I've managed to save a couple cameras (film, not digital), a cell phone (definitely digital
), and an boombox (with CD player). It isn't foolproof (i save about 75% of things I salvage), but it has saved a few valuable artifacts.
First, DO NOT REMOVE THE DEVICE FROM THE WATER! Corrosion will begin as soon as the air touches it.
Second, remove the battery. The voltage and salt water will (besides shorting stuff out) eat away at contacts.
Third, move the device to fresh water, and change it every few hours. The idea is to replace the salt water inside the device with fresh water. You can try to disassemble the device underwater if you like. In the end, you should be using distilled/deionized water. You can use a multimeter to see if any salt (or other ions) are in the water.
Fourth, air dry the device for a LONG time. I mean long. Think days, not hours. A little heat is OK, but nothing above what would be considered "warm" (maybe 100 F).
I've managed to save a couple cameras (film, not digital), a cell phone (definitely digital
), and an boombox (with CD player). It isn't foolproof (i save about 75% of things I salvage), but it has saved a few valuable artifacts.
QUOTE (swanny @ Sep 2 2007, 05:05 AM) 
Thanks for your reply. You were correct, a little probing and the black bit lifted up. Sadly this is what the connector looked like once released.
Click to view attachment
There are a couple of other connectors that don't look so hot either but i think this one (an lcd one) might be enough to render the camera a paperweight. This same ffc damage has already written off the mobile phone which was accompanying said camera when they went for a dip
(btw I considered repair but this connector is only 10mm across .)
Click to view attachment
There are a couple of other connectors that don't look so hot either but i think this one (an lcd one) might be enough to render the camera a paperweight. This same ffc damage has already written off the mobile phone which was accompanying said camera when they went for a dip
(btw I considered repair but this connector is only 10mm across
.)wow...so thats 0.013" for the contact pad, and 0.005" for the connection strip! I think paperweight is in it's near future. Soldering is out of the question, so replacement is the only way.
It's really hard to tell which contacts and traces are no longer connected, but, would a circuit pen be of any use?
Probably not, but, it might be worth a try.
Probably not, but, it might be worth a try.
Well, I got put under quite a bit of pressure (gf seeking options on replacements), so I put it back together.
It's dead, nothing nada nix.
I don't think that this connector is the primary fault since the camera does nothing when I push the power button.
The problem with the "salty dip" was that it was left on the beach amongst the waves of the rising tide so it wasn't fully immersed. Then a few more hours elapsed before I got my hands on it to do things like pull the battery out (cameras and phones have tiny little batteries in them anyway, as I found out).
The phone may yet be recoverable if I can find a replacement keyboard for it (keyboard ffc is damaged but phone does power up).
It's dead, nothing nada nix.
I don't think that this connector is the primary fault since the camera does nothing when I push the power button.
The problem with the "salty dip" was that it was left on the beach amongst the waves of the rising tide so it wasn't fully immersed. Then a few more hours elapsed before I got my hands on it to do things like pull the battery out (cameras and phones have tiny little batteries in them anyway, as I found out).
The phone may yet be recoverable if I can find a replacement keyboard for it (keyboard ffc is damaged but phone does power up).
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