The setup:
Toshiba 15.4 wuxga (both AG layers removed) with winmate g2a130 controller
150w ballast with ushio ceramique 4200k bulb
Pro reflector
1 noctua 120mm fan.
Surplushed pre-condenser (4-5/8" diameter by 12" focal length made of positive Meniscus)
pro lens setup with unsplit fresnels
137"x73" Luma-Brite 1.0 gain screen + paper on bottom to fit 1080p screen(Now they have Top-Lite screen 1.3 gain. Arghhh!)

This is what it looks like:



The projection screen is being held by the friction against the 2 walls. The screen has wrinkles maybe because it's too tight against. I should have made it an inch shorter horizontally.



This side has the switches and OSD board. It's more practical to have the OSD board in front. I didn't realize I have to walk around to change it if I am on the other side.



The bottom compartment is where all the wires n stuff are. Theres a removalable peice of wood here. I can quickly remove that peice of wood and switch cables on the g2a board easily and quickly.



This is the light setup. The precon and reflector are as close as possible to the bulb pretty much. Nothings pretty much screwed in place, just held by gravity pretty much. Hasn't caused a problem yet.

Heres the precon. The hole was made with a jigsaw. It just slides under to fit right up against the bulb.




Heres the pro reflector. That metal thing is from a case fan. It's been jb welded onto it. It just sits on top of the two peices of wood that hold up the double ended lamp.



The ffc cable goes underneath into the bottom compartment. Same thing goes for the fan wire, and the two lamp wires. Everything else is below. Fresnels are taped onto their frames. They just sit there nothings nailed in. I made the frame for the lcd too tight. I shoulda made it a few mm shorter then just use something weather stripper to secure it in place.

All projection pictures are taken with settings on the g2a130 as RGB levels 255/255. Sharpness 29/29(It's hard to notice but it does something with the pixels to make it sharper, but as a result, it makes the image less contrasty slightly for some reason. It's way better on anyways. All those film mode, noise reduction,etc on.

The camera is Sony Cybershot 4.1 mp. I don't know much but I chose the moon symbol and EV 0 for settings.

Projection screens: (dark scenes)

Projection screens: (colors)

Projection screens: (Sharpness)

The white screen was whiter earlier and I had less of that spiral thing. I was fiddling around with the fresnels n lcd distance and can't fix. I'm leaving it for now though. It's quite sharp all around with not much of a pincussion problem. The pics are taken on top of the projection quite close to the triplet. They represent quite closely how bright and contrasty it is in person. The close up pictures on the side help to show the detail but they do look darker maybe because less light gets into the camera lens.

I was using a samsung wuxga with the anti-glare partially stripped for quite some time. I recently changed to a stripped tohisba. The samsung does feel more punchy and vibrant in colors quite close to an actual lcd. The toshiba does feel more blurry because of response time and it feels like the colors are more duller. Of course it is brighter and I have a cleaner image since the toshiba was stripped properly.

Good to see your projector is running fine.

I see you finally got a camera! Nice to see the pics, see you around!

Looks awesome. Nice job!

Are you sure you have a 5200K ceramic lamp? What exact model is it and where can it be bought?

Thanks

No I am not sure. It's actually a 4200k bulb. I'll edit that. This is the bulb and this is where the person I bought it from said that he bought it from.

http://bulbster.com/lightbulbs/cmd150td942rx7s-p-4559.html

Okay now I changed the color temp back to 6500k on the g2a, I think the Samsung and Toshiba look exactly the same. I think that's why I thought the Samsung looked better.