when i made my box plans i based them on the basic plans for a 15"... the problem is that the design was for the norpro, but i am using the Lumen lab 65k bulb... bu it looks like the buld will be off-center about 1/8 or so of an inch(at most) this is using the lumen lab mogal socket and mounting it directly to the case of the projector(which is plexi glass) can it even deal with the heat?

In my experience, 1/8 shouldn't make too much of a difference, but you can always try shimming it with a washer or something, if possible. I'd be more concerned about the case material, as plexi can bend and warp with heat, which can really mess up your alignment and measurements. Assuming you shield the inside of the case so the plexi doesn't get any direct light/heat, and your cooling is sufficient, you might be ok. Good luck.

the problem is more like this...





http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b269/b_e.../proproblem.jpg

Well if you want to move it over a lil you can use what I saw someone did for the 10.6 when they had that problem hopefully they will chime in here. He used a tuna can so on the outside of the box FREAKING BRILLIANT ok it worked for him. Hope that helps

If your skills are good enough route a lil out perfection

okay plexiglass disregard

actually that still might work, i just might have to hang the base out of the box like 1/8 " maybe mounging it to a tuna can like you said, this would give me adjustability and heat disapation...

If you really want to attack it - how's about mounting the base to a small metal plate, which mounts and slides on the outer surface of your case. You'll have to cut a hole in your case to allow for some wiggle room (adjustability), but that should get you 1/8 and then some. I've done the same in my last build, then covered the resulting wires and general area with a small baking pan. Doesn't look the greatest, but it works

Actually this is how I mounted my bulb, just with 1/2" particleboard. It will look OK as long as you cut the piece nice(you could use another piece of plexiglass to mount the bulb).

Alternately...

Shift your fresnels, LCD and projection lens 1/8" to the side. There's nothing that says that the principal axis of your projector must be in the center of your box.

Or...

Grind 1/8" off of the bottom of your mogul. (I did that for my standard 15" projector.)

Or...

Look for another mogul socket that's shorter. They do exist...

Or...

Use that 1/8" offset and lens-shift your projector a bit. This means that the projection will center a bit off to the side of your projector's center line.

In any event, this is not an insurmountable issue.

My question is....why are you using plexiglass? Is it not the clear type or something? These suggestions are definatly good.

Heh. I missed the plexiglass part.

Plexyglass is acryllic, which softens at around 100 deg C. Provided that your cooling system is working well, you should not be exceeding these temparatures, however, that's still closer than I'd like to cut it myself.

Polycarbonate is tougher, and requires a lot higher temps to soften.

However, the nice thing about acryllic is that it's easy to manipulate. Taking a butane or propane torch, you can run that in circles around the mogul mount, until it softens just enough to allow you to move the mogul mount outwards by your 1/8". This will allow you to bring the lamp to center.

Failing that, take a look at my 10.6" PLOG, the lamp that I'm using won't hvae those issues.