well.... have a 10.6 lcd witn the MST controller.... bought a Barco 2100 off ebay(like an ASK Impression, 10.4 lcd which has a big pressure point on it) in a fit of spending... in the middle of moving to a new house, closing in 10 days with any luck, so it will be off and on for a few weeks, but here goes...

I'll eventually use a 575W hmi SE bulb in it(what the barco has in it), I'll either use a power supply out of another lcd projector(an apollo explorer I picked up really cheap with no light assembly...not sure what size lcd is in it, either 8 or 10 inch but mostly I just got it for the power suuply)

The barco weighs like a gazillion pounds(a little less than a half gazillion kilos for our friends from Oz) so basically I'm going to transplabt the light engine, the triplet and the lcd/fresnel holder into a homemade box...

I'll post some pictures of the barco later, there are some in this thread that shows the weird precon/fly-eye lens
There are also some pics and another PLOG by verboten1 who is going to transplant a 10.6 into the barco2100 : http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...&st=0&#
and wooz is using a barco unmodified I think...

I have all the pieces removed from the barco and have implanted a 150w ceramic se bulb into the light engine and just got it fired up for a couple of seconds, haven't got the fan to the light engine hooked up yet, the light engine comes with its own built in fan to cool the IR/UV absorbing glass!
I think the triplet has a FL of about 10" or so, anyway it focused a light bulb at 10", not sure if that means its FL or not...
The fresnels are reversed as opposed to a normal diy pj, the rear fresnel has a longer focal length than the front one, Dazz says its to shrink the arc images because of the odd fly-eye precon

the whole setup produced a (very roughly) 68" wide picture(4:3) at somewhere around 92"-96"

and wellll, you know me I had to measure some lumens even if it really doesn't mean anything at this point since the original lcd was in it and I have no idea of its transmissiveness plus there was tons of stray ligh but, well, I missed my luxmeter having said that I measured lux before the rear fresnel and after the front fresnel at 98900 and 4700 after which gives me a incredibly invalid and roughly 4.7% transmittance for the entire fresnel/lcd sled which minusing the fresnels ("minusing"? man I need some more coffee!) gives the lcd about a 6% trans.... which sounds about right..the original barco was rated at 750 lumens with the 575, but we know how the lie like dogs so I'm guessing I can do 400 anyway, especially since the barco is built for a 4:3 and the 10.6 is 15:9 so will intercept less of the light beam, but we'll see, all my testing will be with the 150w since I'd rather not burn up a 575 turning it on and off a huge number of times and it will take about 2 minutes to put a 575 in it when I'm ready...

in case anyone is wondering, I have used the 19" pj I built, but unfortunately its just too massive in our current living room, even I had to agree with my wife on that one, it didn't look nearly that big in the lab! so I may see if I can put it back together as an actual lcd monitor.... which should be an adventure in itself

oh, the brochure for the 2100 says vignetting is >70% and I'd have to agree based on my rough test, looked extremely even..as for the brightness of the projection itself I'd have to say its probably in the >100 lumen range especially considering I was handholding the triplet, but probably fairly watchable with the 150w bulb in it and at 68" wide.... once I get it enclosed and kll the stray light I'll do some actual semi-valid measurements

found a 24v 1.5 amp wall adapter that should run the lamp fan .... AV says I can try hooking a 150w MH ballast to my 400W HPS to run a 575w HMI bulb....I may actually try it.... my wife says to me "so why are you taking everything out of there? why don't you just take the bad stuff out and put the power supply in there? thats not a bad looking preojector.... you just want to build a box don't you .."
so I may rethink this and put everything back into the original case....

well, damn..... so I decided to try to use the pj, case and all.... so I cut the lcd frame to fit the 10.6, ended up taking the glass polarizer in the frame(the original pj looks like the rear polar is actually seperated from the lcd) because it was at a different orientation than the 10.6 polars).... the damn pj has lens shifting but in the wrong direction! well, I suppose it depends on how you look at it, the pj lens shifts towards the floor if you have the pj just sitting on a table is what I mean I guess I knew that subconciously since the keystoning adjustment is at the "top" of the pj rather than the bottom, so I reckon this pj is meant to be ceiling mounted AND upside down(mounting holes are on the "bottom" which again I knew but didn't follow that thru to its logical conclusion... dang.... it also has a fairly short throw lens in it(about 1.2:1 I think) so there will be no mounting it on a shelf behind the viewing seats...well, I have no objection to ceiling mounting it, or upside down for that matter, but I think that means I have to flip the lcd upside down? well, if I wanted to only run it from the pc I could have the video card flip it, but I don't think the cable box will do it...dang... it is nice having not to make a box, certainly quicker anyway...
Then again, I guess I could just mount a "shelf" from the ceiling and keep things the way they are... yeah...that sounds like the reasonable course since the way the lcd is mounted now it gives me what I think is a great spot for the cotroller board inputs to be mounted to the front of the pj

edit: hey, I was just thinking(I should try to do that more often!) and if I mount the pj on a shelf hanging from the ceiling, and if I angle the pj towards the floor, then I should be able to use the keystone adjustment too I think(the keystone adjuster being at the top of the lcd so that the top of the front fresnel tilts out)

any pics of how you are goin gto mount the LCD?
i am still aginizing over how to do mine

I'll take a couple when I do the permanenet mounting, I cut the white plastic frame on the inside the get ris of that plastic band that goes across the back and put the lcd back in the metal frame and...now wait for it... duct taped the metal frame onto the metal lcd frame from the pj..the tape is only touching the plastic and metal so it'll do till I figure out how to do it permanently... at the moment I'm thinking that I'll make a small thin wooden frame that can bolt to the pj lcd frame and that I can somehow stick the metal 10.6 lcd frame to that... maybe a couple of really teeny tiny screws through the metal frame of the 10.6 lcd(the one it came with,not the pj metal frame) into the wood frame, but they'd have to be flathead, I'm not sure I've ever seen wood screws that small thoug... to better explain, I think I will take a thin piece of wood(about the same thinckness as the 10.6 metal frame) and make a frame that is exactly the same interior size as the 10.6 lcd frame, then set the 10.6 lcd fram into the opening amd screw it to the inside edges of the wood frame, whiich I can then drill a couple of holes thru and thru the pjs metal frame(which I have already cut wider since the 10.6 is wider than the original lcd)
did that make sense? and I just measured it and I think the controller cable is long enough so that the inputs can come out where the computer inputs are at in the front right of the pj...

good luck with the move....

I have to figure out what to do if that replacement ballast wont work

did you get instructions how to hook up 2 ballasts?