This example will use the LL entry module switch in it's pre-wired configuration, and only 2 additional major components, readily available at your local hardware store.
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The indicated configuration is where the three wires connect. I highly recommend that you use quick disconnects, and solder them to household wire for the switch. You can solder these directly onto the contacts if you prefer, however, disconnects allow you to remove the switch later.
The switch on the LL plug becomes a master switch. If this switch is off, then nothing happens anywhere.
The next step is the plugin. This should be wired to the three wires according to the instructions given. Typically, the brass screw is hot, the chrome screw is neutral, and the green screw is ground. It is in y our best interest to connect these properly.
If you have a box (As I have, and very highly recommend) then the box should also be connected to ground.
The next step is the circuit breaker. You must use quick disconnects (supplied) for the circuit breaker! soldering to these leads will destroy the circuit breaker. Only the hot line should be interrupted for the circuit breaker.
The light switch comes next. Again, only the hot line should be interrupted. Again, if you have a box for this (Which I still highly recommend) it should be connected to ground. The neutral wire can go streight through, uncut.
The live, neutral and ground wires then continue on to the lamp ballast.
How it works:
There is no power inside the box when the main LL entry switch is off. Both live and neutral are switched, so they're completely disconnected wire. Ground is the only thing that can possibly be connected at this point.
When this switch is on, then the 2 plugins inside the box become active. This is where the power cord for the LCD and either AC power for the fan(s) come from, or a DC adapter for 12V fans can be powered. How you want to do that is up to you, but you now have a nice standard outlet to plug stuff into. I like this because it's SAFE.
Remember how I told you that the circuit breaker is heat sensitive? Well, it turns out that it's sensitive enough that if you are overheating your projector, the circuit breaker will pop before you roast your LCD. Thus, in this position, it will protect your LCD from overheating in the event that your fans fail (Or you have them turned down a bit further than is actually safe
Not that I would ever do such a thing...) Anyway, the point is that the circuit breaker is there to protect your house should the lamp and ballast fail. I like to put it after the plugins, so that the fans can keep working in the event that the circuit breaker is triggered by an overheat.In the event of an overheat, the circuit breaker CAN be reset... once it's cooled down enough. You will have to wait a while for that. I just happen to have an extra circuit breaker, which I can swap in sooner (Another good reason for quick disconnects) to get back to the fun. The breaker will likely take at least an hour to cool. I wouldn't recommend trying to force it, let it cool by itself.
Now, you have a light switch, which switches on and off the light. (Go figure.) This can be replaced by any SPST switch that you happen to like, provided that it's safe for AC voltage. The only wire that should be switched is the live one. The neutral can go right through the case unbroken. The box for the switch (If you have one) should be connected to the ground chain.
That's it in a nutshell. This will provide you with a basic, working configuration. The lamp can never be on if the fans and LCD are not, and the fans can be run for a cooldown period after the lamp is shut off. You will have to then shut off the fans yourself.
You can get fancier, adding in thermostatic switches, or other features, but this does the job, and does it well.