Sorry about starting a new post, but the last one was getting pretty complicated and out of control. So I wanted to start a new one...

This is what ninhowfritz designed for me:

With this I should be able to flip the switches and have everything power on. When I flip off the lower switch it will turn off the lcd and bulb, but the fan will keep running until the box cools down or until i flip the labeled dpst switch off above (black and red illustrated).

Now I know people will come in here and tell me oh just follow this diagram or do what i did, and i appreciate your inputs but I know nothing about wiring things so I can't just follow something I need to have my own issue addressed so that I know exactly what needs to be done.

So please take a look at this and tell me if it looks good:



Thanks.

anyone?

looks like it will work.

depending on the switch, you may need to put a jumper on the incoming hot wire to get it over to the other pole... either that or simply just use one pole. double pole switches are typically used when you want to swtich both the hot and common wires, or when you want to switch two difference voltages, like 12v and 120v.

Updated it with Gadgetsmith's comments.

Now given that you're using the LL module... You should relocate the connections to the socket so that power is only applied when the switch is on. A master "off" switch is a good thing to have. Other than that, it looks like it should work fine.

Edit: Like so:
Click to view attachment

so this gets the green light?

this looks correct. the module you have looks like the LL one which means you will have to remove the jumpers from the a/c input recepticle that go to the built in DPST switch to make it work. then you can wire it like the first diagram. otherwise it looks right. on the other hand if you dont cut anything and wire it like the last diagram it will act as a master switch.

With that configuration you will have no post shut down cooling. That's the real reason for putting a line voltage thermostat in the circuit. You want your cooling fans to come on the same time the lamp comes on. When you turn your lamp off you don't want the cooling fan to go off until the temp in your box has dropped to X. As it is wired now the attic fan thermostat serves no purpose. The original stickman drawing I posted to you back feeds the fan circuit thru the attic fan T-stat for post cool down.

Ah yes. I overlooked the fact that was a LL entry containing a switch. Philw has a good point. You want the thermostat wired before any switch, that way it can do it's job.

Ninhowfritz recommended this setup:



would that fix the problem you stated?

I used your original drawing and cleaned out the parts that you don't need for this part of the circuit.
It's still the same drawing just cleaned up. Hope it's less confusing to you.

Your power and jumper on the switch is fine.

REMEMBER YOU WILL STILL HAVE 120 VOLTS ON THE FAN CIRCUIT EVEN WITH THE DPST
SWITCH IN THE OFF POSITION, using this circuit, UNPLUG YOUR PJ ANYTIME YOU OPEN IT FOR SERVICING !!

Just leave the switch built into the LL plug on all the time, only turn it off if you don't want power going into the PJ (during a thunderstorm or w/e. Only use the DPST switch to turn it on or off regularly. Then the fan will shut down automatically when it is cool. The LL switch is really just an 'extra' IMO.

The LL power plug has a built in switch?

If it does, than that switch is redundant when using the DPST switch.

P.S.
In fact if it was me, and this is only for my taste, I would jump the LL connector's switch out, if it's possible. It would be one of those things you would discover was turned off accidentally. After you've torn half of your PJ apart trying to figure out why it wasn't starting up. But only if using the DPST switch.

I agree, the switch built into the power connector is a bit un-needed, but it may come in useful....if it were me, I would wire it so that the LCD got power from between the 2 switches, so the DPST one would turn the bulb on/off and force the fan to be on, and the LL switch would turn off the LCD as well as everything else, maybe for leaving it overnight(or overday if youre nocturnal, as a result of needing dark to use the PJ ). Of course I assume that leaving the LCD on all the time won't hurt it.

In my projector (since I got lazy once it worked right), the LCD and fan stay on as long as the projector is plugged into the wall. The home depot 'wall switch' turns the ballast on/off. That is about as simple as wiring a PJ can get.