I disassemble a 15.4" Sharp LQ154M1LW02 panel. I have a few questions:

1) There is a thick blurry sheet between the back-light and the LCD. Is the blurry sheet itself is the anti-glare? If so, then I probably don't have to remove the anti-glare layer. Is this correct? I thought the back of the LCD screen has an anti-reflective, while the front has an anti-glare. So, there's something wrong somewhere here. Or is it just part of the back-light, and has nothing to do with the anti-glare/anti-reflective process?

2) I know this panel is used alot, did someone with this panel remove the anti-glare/anti-reflect from it? How was your experience? Any links? Good experiences? Bad experiences? How about the LQ154M1LW12 panel?

I found a link here:
http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...8283&st=119

It uses chemical method. I really don't want to use the chemical method. Does anyone use the water rag method on this? Do you have to use some kind of magnifier or microscope to look at the layers to peel this off?

3) Do I put the stripped LCD panel and its electronic components into a projector's custom made (wooden) frame, or do I take out the back light and somehow put back the LCD frame (metal), then put the whole thing in the projector's custom made frame (wood stuff)?

4) The are two sides of the LCD has electronic components, the bottom and the left. I think because the LCD is put upside down in the projector, the bottom with be at the top, and won't suffer the weight problem, however, the left side wouldn't go to a frame slot right? How do you anchor the LCD?

The general question about 2 to 4, is after strip the LCD, how do I frame it back and anchor it? It looks very fragile to just slide it into a wooden frame's slit. Also the electronics component on the left side would get in the way too.

Thanks.

All those sheets of plastic on the in the metal frame are EXTRA Parts
I put mine into a wooden frame in the projector. Only because I broke the plastic that the lcd fits into. I hot glued my side circuitry and the top circuitry to keep it from moving ar breaking. Just a bead on the edge at the connection to the lcd.

For your first question, get to reading here:
http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=9027

For your next set of questions, just look through the plogs with 15.4" Lcd's and you'll find lot's of ideas.

Thanks for the replies. Yes, I goes through the page at the link and brutuz appeared to use water rag method for the reflective side (the back side). Just to confirm, I saw a silvery color on the back, is that the reflective layer? I think I read somewhere that the reflective layer takes out much more light than anti-glare. So, would you think it maybe a good enough to just peel the back off using water rag and leave the anti-glare on the front?

About the other questions I had, I knew that the answer is probably somewhere, it's just getting to it is so hard, even with the search. Certain discussion goes on for more than 100 pages. So I was asking to see if someone know on top of their head would be able to answer this in a paragraph or two.

Take the silver layer off. I used a little acetome mixed with water 10 parts water to 1 part acetone( checked it every 2-4 hours). Let it sit for about 12 hours and peeled it off. I left my ag on, Both sides. Reports are about a 10% gain after removing ag. I don't think it is worth the risk for me.

@freefall

Thanks for the reply. I am doing it with 3 water 1 acetone ratio using paper tow right now. I cover the whole with with a plastic wrap, so after 9 hours, the paper tows are still saturated with water.

The big problem is: I see silvery color still there even after I start to peel a little corner, about 0.7 cm. The corner lift off without broken. The part that lifts up is some what clear, somewhat silvery (very little, look somewhat colorful from an angle). This means some silvery was pickup (very little). From the silvery surface, I see some dark spot (I guess this is where some got picked up). If this goes through out, it's not good at all. I let it sits for another 4 hours and see. There's also no gel like someone said. I think the gel goes below the silvery surface.

There shouldn't be any gel. As far as I nkow the sharp panels have 2 silver layers and a tac layer,then polarizer. When I removed my silver layers(which both came off together as one) I would roll kind of roll it off. VERY VERY VERY slowly. It took about an hour to remove the film all the way. Get a bit up and fold it over into a roll. that gives you a better way to hold it without putting too much pressure on the panel or other layers.

JonJ... you have done a bunch of these. If you have anything to add have at it.

The reflective layer will come up in 2 pieces. The top piece will peel off and leave behind the second piece with glue attached. The second piece will peel off leaving a perfect mirror surface.

I'd leave the antiglare alone for now.

Thanks. I didn't know this. So, after peeling the transparent piece on top, I see a silvery color, with some missing areas. So, I use cotton ball, then paper tow and 100% acetone to clean it up (took me a while). However, the screen is not shiny now, and I am concern the quality of it. It also feels sticky, probably due to the glue. I am using a fan to dry it up (I thought it was because the acetone melting the surface). So, if this is glue, should I take it further, and get rid of it somehow? It seem hard, with sticky surface. Do I have to do another wet rag again?

I plug this into a computer and the white color (by open new document for example) is not as white as another Dell's LCD I have. The question is that is this normal (after taking the reflective layer off)? Another problem is that there are many visible dark lines on the screen. They formed when cold/vaporized acetone touch the surface. This is like crack surface. I am not sure which layer has this problem. I use my finger nail to scratch a corner (where there is no pixel) to see if another layout would come off, I don't see anything. I'll try to use acetone to clean up 1 of those crack lines to see if it's on the surface or deep down.

Definite the white level is not very good. I wonder if it's a step backward (lose light). Also the glue is very sticky. After 10 minutes of fan, it doesn't dry up at all.

Scratch a bit harder on a corner, and it appears another layer move up. Now I put new paper tow on the panel. This times, I add more water ( not 3 to 1 ratio anymore). I am not sure if I have to wait 12 hours again.

Good news!

I successfully peel the 2nd layer. This gives a very shiny surface. Connect the panel to a computer, and it looks good. The crack lines disappear 100%.

I would like to thank Freefall and Jonjandran for this. Your help was very valuable for my success on this task. The hint about the silvery layer was the start. The hint about 2 layers was very important and without knowing it, I don't think I would have gotten this far, and may have damage the panel from trying to clean the sticky stuff off. I hope you two have a great weekend.

In summary, if I know it's this good, and if I know how things are, I would have done it again (given the final image is better). I must admit that many times during the process that I repeat Freefall's comment to myself many time "it's not worth it for a 10% gain".

It was a scary task though. I read so many posts up here. Search for the panel's model in the forum. Somehow I miss the two layers and silvery part. I was patient and careful (with some carelessness such as using pressure peeling 2nd layer, clean with 100% acetone, peel things off even when it's not easy like many said, power up right away), but obviously not enough. Tape and hide all electronics was definitely a must. I gave it a bit more than 12 hours on the 1st layer. That one peels off easy (like you peel a plastic cover sheet on the face of a new cell phone), with the exception of the edge and also the corner where I started with. The acetone clean up after the 1st layer was tough. I had to use the cotton ball, and it takes forever, and cotton's hair everywhere. Changed to paper tows helps dramatically because it has sanding paper characteristics to it and scratch the silvery surface so that acetone get into it quicker, and also I can take a large piece of it. However, because the larger amount of acetone using paper tows, things vaporize and makes uneven cold/hot temperature and result in the crack lines. This wasn't warned before (or at least I didn't see it). I know that use 100% acetone was not recommend on this surface, but using the 3 water to 1 acetone didn't help at all.

The 2nd layer was much harder to peel off. I let it sits there from 5 PM to 8:30 AM. That 15.5 hours. However, it's was very hard to peel off. Good thing is that the layer is very strong. I use a piece of plastic the size of a remote control to press down on the panel while peeling (I keep it very close to where I peel to reduce the torque) so the pressure is more evenly applied and not break the panel. I try to peel in small section to reduce the force. It took me many minutes. It was very strong. The thing stick back very strong too, so I had to hold on to everything I peel up. The surface at the end is black and shiny, not sticky. Although I didn't see water going into electronics component, I use a fan to blow it for a minutes or two. I also let the paper tows go much closer to the edges (not touch it though) because the 1st time, those were hard to pull. I also wet the paper tow a bit more than half and hold it upside down to limit the amount of water on the paper tow and keep it from dripping (too much water). The food plastic wrap helps tremendously, and I only spay some water 1 time near the beginning of the process.

I think the carelessness I mentioned above partly because the panel I got was at a very good deal (bad back light) and I have another one for backup. Another reason is that I had some confident it wouldn't hurt even those I did was against some advices here. The clean up with 100% acetone and large area was just plain impatient and mistake.

The image? No scratch or anything like that, but the white color is still much less than the normal LCD or CRT. I think the silvery layer give it the white color. I hope that when shone with projector's light, it will be white as usual.

Now, I just have to cut the board, put things in and finish the project.

congrats on your success.