Hi, I am new to this and I am trying to hook up my rockford fosgate

PL1-212 system to my home computer.
its 2 12" subs wired together in a prebuilt enclosure
here are the specs for that.

Woofer Quantity 2
Woofer Size 12"
Woofer Series Punch Stage-1
Woofer Impedance (ea) 2 x 8-Ohm
Power Handling 300 Watts RMS
600 Watts Max
System Configuration Ported
Enclosure Material 5/8" MDF w/ plexi window
Speaker Connector 4 AWG Binding Post
Dimensions 15.5 x 34.25 x 16 (in)
39.4 x 87.0 x 40.6 (cm)
Shipping Weight 71.8 Lbs.
(32.6 Kg.)


My amp is a Punch P4002 2channel and here are its specs.


Number of Channels 2
Rated Power
continuous power 100W x 2 @ 4-Ohms RMS
200W x 2 @ 2-Ohms RMS
400W x 1 @ 4-Ohms bridged RMS
Total Power
total sum of 'rated power' 400 Watts
Bridgeable Yes
Crossover Controls High-Pass (HP): 40-400Hz 12dB/octave Butterworth
Low-Pass (LP): 40-400Hz 12dB/octave Butterworth
Tone Controls Bass: 0dB to +18dB @ 45Hz
Signal Input Low level: 1 RCA pair
Signal Output Low level: 1 RCA pair
Power Input Connector Block
Power Wire Gauge 4 AWG
Speaker Output Connector Screw terminal barrier strip
Speaker Wire Gauge 8 AWG to 18 AWG
Heat Sink Type Cast aluminum
Cooling Convection
Remote Controls Punch Bass EQ (included with cable)
Visual Indicators Power On
Signal Level
Thermal Status
Speaker Protection
Circuit Topology Class Class A/B
Frequency Response 20Hz to 20kHz +/- 0.5 dB
Shipping Weight 11 Lbs.
(4.9 Kg.)
Dimensions (HxWxL) 2.4 x 11 x 11.7 (in)
6.1 x 27.9 x 29.7 (cm)

And I also have 2 Punch P1692C 6X9's
heres the specs..

Configuration 2-Way Full-Range
Midrange Diameter 6"x9"
Midrange Depth 3"
Tweeter Diameter .5"
Tweeter Depth n/a
Frequency Response 40Hz - 21kHz
Power Handling 75 Watts RMS
150 Watts Max
Crossover High-Pass (HP): 6dB
Sensitivity 90dB @ 1 watt/1 meter
Grilles Included Yes
Mounting Hardware Yes
Shipping Weight 8.4 Lbs.
(3.8 Kg.)


So im new to this but I assume I have to buy a reciever and some type of power converter.... but i have no idea where to start.....Looking at these specs what do I need to set up this sytem to my pc???
Thanks.

use the line out of the soundcard and send it to the line in of your amps

How do I power my amp in the house?, If I plug my line out into my amp and that is connected to my subs, isnt it going to cancel out my regular pc speakers? I will have no high freq ? how do I power my other speakers? also there is a REM terminal on the amp, what do I do with this when hooking it up to my computer?

Your going to need a very large power converter from ac to 12vdc and it is going to need to support 400w. It would probably be cheaper to buy a 120v amp and ditch your car audio amp. I did this back in 2000 or so and it was very expensive. It may be different now tho. Sorry no time to look stuff up for you but that should give you a start.

yes you will need to power the amp itself aswell. you may be able to find a cheap computer power supply that may do the job. It will need to be high wattage and have 400+ Watts on the 12v rail.

yeah as in like 40 to 80 amps... try Power PC and Cooling... also try usinfg a Battery with the power supply

Haha, I have a 12VDC @ 500 Amp converter if you want! That should put ya at about 6kW!!! Yeah too bad it runs off of 3 phase tho. Ahh the beauties of working in a research lab!



If you look online, I remember seeing a page talking about how to mod a computer PSU to just put out 12VDC at almost triple it's normal 12VDC output. You have to do some rewiring of the unit, but you can convert a 400watt computer PSU into a 500Watt 12VDC PSU. They even tell you how to get 1000watts out of a 400watt ATX PSU, but the run time is something like 20 seconds.

If I come across that page again, I'll post it.

A splitter will let you have line-out to the amp as well as the speakers. And a PC power supply distributes its voltage between the different rails (sets of wires). You would have to upgrade the wiring.

Uninterrupted Power Supplies have 12v batteries inside, you could probably dissect one and remove the 120v equipment, then run heavy gauge wire to the amp (don't forget a fuse).

another idea is to goto your local automotive place, find a 35 amp battery charger, that might work. You might need to hook a capacitor to the out put for those hard bump'in songs, but it might work.

Best bet is to buy a 120VAC amp (or what ever your line level where you is). You can find nice ones online for about $150 or maybe even cheaper. I got a 300watt/ch 2ch for around $160, and this is a nice HQ amp too.

Or if your really big into DIY, look into 41Hz, look at their AMP7, you can get what you need from that. Plus they are full range too, so you could get a smaller one and run some satellite speaker too.

My advise would be to get rid of the car amp. Really. The cost of a decent power supply which can provide the needed power at 12V is more than the cost of a similar quality 120V amp.

If that's providing 200W (100W X 2ch) at the output, and it's a class A/B amp, then it's probably less than 40% efficient. The fuse for that amp is what, 60A? It probably needs about 50A at full load, which is a 600W PSU.

If you do insist on running the 12V amp, I'd suggest that you consider 2 or 3 PC PSUs in parallel to provide the power. Each of these should be able to reasonably produce 1/2 of their rated power to the 12V line. There's documentation on-line on how to convert a PC PSU into a 12V power supply, it just needs some re-wiring to convince the PSU to turn on and stay on with no PC connected to it. This is probably the cheapest solution for power.

For the signal, your PC may have a subwoofer output already. Many modern PCs have 5.1 to 7.1 audio already. One 3.5" plug is generally the center/subwoofer output. You should be able to separate out the subwoofer output and run that to your subs. If not, get a "Y" adapter for an iPod or the like. They're cheap, and you can then run the main signal to both the sub and the speakers. Your amp will have a low-pass switch.

I personally am quite nervous about connecting computer power supplies together, or even separate 12v rails on a single power supply. I've read too many problems online (I once researched connecting two power supplies to one PC for some reason).

A easy way to power the amp is to get a small battery for the toy cars like this one.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Peg-Perego-12-VOLT-SLI...emZ380034821048

I have run car amps inside and a 30A charger will not work for any larger power amp. When a large bass note hits the instantaneous current demand is often more than the fuse rating. A charger just fails with this kind of load.

A small battery and a wall wart charger that is regulated will drive the amp for a few hours at louder levels. If you want to crank for a longer time you will need to get a larger 15 to 20 amp charger.

Still a home amp can often be had for not too much money.

Here is a nice Fosgate that should go for less than $100.00

http://cgi.ebay.com/FOSGATE-AUDIONICS-M-60...emZ320259324576

I'm still voting for a UPS. The large format ones (the ones with two large 12v batteries inside) start around $75.