I have wanted to build my own projector for a while, BUT as usual, no real time to do it with 2 cars waiting for swaps, and redoing my house.
I bought a Barco 2100 that uses a 10.4" screen and a 575W Metal Halide bulb.
It has lens shift also.

when i get ahold of one of the 10.6" kits I will be doing the upgrade.

I will also be doing the Whole living room up as a theater.
as things progress I will update...

Brightness (Lumens) : 750 ANSI
Contrast (Full On/Off) : **
Variable Iris: No
Weight: 49.0 lbs.
Size (inches) (HxWxD) : 13.2 x 23.7 x 25.3
Std. Lens: Focus: Manual
Zoom: Manual
Image Size (inches) : 48.0 - 300.0
Optional Lenses: No
Keystone Correction: None
Lens Shift: Yes
Networking: Wired:
No
Wireless: No

Display: Type:
10.4" TFT LCD (1) should make this a very easy upgrade
Native: 800x600 Pixels
Maximum: 1024x768 Pixels
Aspect Ratio: 4:3 (SVGA)
Lamp: Type:
575W Metal Halide
Life: 1000 hours
Quantity: 1
Speakers: 10.0W+10.0W
Max Power: 750W
Voltage: 120V - 230V
FCC Class: **
Special: **
Status: Out of Production
First Ship: **
Last Ship: **

Well, I also bought that projector from ebay, and I am planning to do the same thing. I already have the panel, just waiting for the pj to arrive.

Now, is that bulb a new one? where can you get replacement bulbs for

that pj? how much?

Ebay

Barco 2100 Replacement Lamp

Thanks man

I was personally thinking about going with this barco projector myself.


18,000 Lumen Barco

I have found the bulbs at divine lighting for 85 each.
I just have to put them into the bulb holder.

I got the lamp working now. I will try to get some pics of the guts tonight.

J

is the lamp for the 2100 a gx9.5 or gs22 base?

G22 the bigger base.

I wish it was gx9.5 because i could get longer life bulbs

thanks....ordered a 9.5 before I noticed the base in the picture, so then I ordered a g22 also..sigh....wonder if you can retrofit a 9.5 base into it?

well, i really dont see why not, if you could get a socket for it, then just splice into the existing wiring.

well i ordered my 10.6" with genesis (had to go cheap for now)

finally took some pics of the guts....not much to see, but i will post them up anyway!!!

the condenser and the LCD and Fresnel sled

and the monster of a lense

1.7:1
345mm FL
approx 4" in diameter

cool, I was wondering what the fl of the lens was, although now thinking about it, I know there are different lenses for this on... are there any numbers or stickers on your triplet? I have a barco that I am going to use with the 10.6, but I'm going to transplant most of it into a different box...

this is the 1.7:1 lense with 345 mm FL

I'm still trying to figure out how i can make this thing hang from the ceiling

I'm now starting to disconnect wiring to see what i can remove to make this function as it should while removing everything i do not need.

thats one big lens lol.

yeah that's what i said when i opened up the box they had it in.

but apparently it is what this projector uses

Looks almost like a beseler lens

it definitely looks similar from the pictures I have seen, except mine has a threaded body for focusing I assume.

its definitly not the same as my lens on the 2100, I think I have a shorter throw lens on mine but no obvious clues so far

does your list a throw ratio on it??

nope, a couple of small stickers with numbers on them, I need to look up and see if one of them is the model number of the lens, that should tell me

part number should be something like R98-xxxxx

after some more inspection and a test fire of this projector i have found out a few things.

there appears to be a piece of glass between the rear fresnel and the LCD.

the image that i will be throwing on my 12' wide wall will be approximately 8' wide.

catching the weak part of the insulation on the bulb leads does not feel so good.

and damn this thing is heavy....i moved it onto the coffee table and i guess i forgot how much it weighed

thats actually a glass polarizer from what the manual says..... and yeah, its built for weightlifters thats why I was thinking about transplanting pieces into a box , but the wife is pushing strongly for me to put the new lcd into the barco, I think she has doubts about my box making skills...perhaps with god reason
hey, my front fresnel is off axis, can't tell about the rear one, taking the assembly apart tonight to see what I have to do to enlarge the lcd aperture to fit the wider 10.6

I thought your was set up for on axis?

mine is set for off axis and has the keystone adjustment and the rear fresnel has a rotation screw on it.


sooo, if it's a polarizer......the panel can be stripped bare on th eback??

hmmm, maybe have to see what can be done ....wierd

well, there is an "on axis" sticker on my front fresnel for whatever that says, however it cerrtainly looked off center this morning... and I looked thru the rear fresnel/glass thing this morning and it did look like a polarizer...and yeah, thats what I was wondering...however it would have to be the same orientation as the front polarizer, though it probably is since most lcds are 45degree polarized(?) and of course, since the polarizer would stop ~50% of the light coming in to the lcd, the lcd probably wouldn't need any cooling

i think because of the lense shift, your fresnel would have to be off axis.

sooo if that is a polarizer, and the LCD has all original polarizers on it....then would we not have an image projected because of it having 3 polarizers??

who knows? I'll just have to see what gives me the best picture I guess...

not sure about the lcds polarizers, no 3 polarizers would still be ok and you'd get an image...assuming the lcd has polarizers on each side of it, the glass polarizer may be a way of removing heat(IR) from the lcd by filtering out the light that is in the wrong orientation in the first place...... would seem odd way to do it though

I'm glad I am a fast learner....as of 2 months ago I knew nothing about lighting, projection, and not much about lenses.

I thank you for your input.

so who is going to get their barco done first???

my panel is sitting on my front porch as we speak


I would say that when i get this done, i may just have to build a 1080p Projector

the panel in action....

i can't wait to get it intop the projector!!

I ripped out every board not in the power supply.
Input boards, sound board, LCD boards and all associated wiring.
here is the pile

and the almost empty shell....Click to view attachment

oh, you'll get yours done first, with the move coming this next week if I'm lucky, it took me an hour to find a pair of pliers the other day! looking good

lol well that sucks....


Thanks I am hoping to get the LCD holder cut, and the repalcement panel to cover the front Inputs done today, and some wiring for the fans that dont work, i hope to make them all run off od one leg of the supply.....i hope

J

I got my lcd(the actual panel) taken out of the assembly this morning and put the frame back together and brought the assembly(fresnels and assumed polarizer) up to test with my lcd monitor, its definilty a piece of polarizer glass, and seems to be in standard orientation too(ie I held the frame in the same position as it is in the pj and the image on my monitor was visible, rotated the frame 90 degrees and voila! no light coming thru)...soooo , yeah, you could strip off the polars on the side of the lcd that faces the rear fresnel...at least technically speaking you could.....whether that would help or hurt the contrast is problematical, replacing the polars doesn't seem to have helped a couple of people who have tried it, at least from what I remember reading, and while I have stripped my fair share of lcds of their ag and even the polarizer...I think I'll leave the 10.6 lcd just as it is since I'll eventually be using the 575w anyway and theres plenty of lumens

I’m guessing that they have separated the rear polarizer to help keep things cooler .50% of the heat could theoretically be moved away from the LCD.

DJ

yeah, that was what I was thinking too, at some point I'll dissect the original and check it.... what is puzzling me is what effect would leaving it there and not removing the rear polar on the 10.6? obviously just by being another layer of something it will cut down brightness, but by how much? assuming it polarizes at the same angle as the 10.6 lcd, then shouldn't most(90%?) of the light exiting the glass polar get thru the rear polar on the 10.6 lcd? so I might lose 10-15% of the lumens by leaving it there but would transfer 50% of the heat off the lcd..which at 575W is a good thing

hey verboten1, I didn't realize the lens shifting in the pj was in the downward direction! are you planning on mounting this from the ceiling upside down?

thats my plan....still now sure how i am goingto...but that was the plan...

are you going to run it from a PC? then you can just flip the picture in software, I'm going to run it from a cable box so I won't be able to....

well yes, BUT i also want to play 360 on it...

For anyone interested,

ebay's got another barco 2100 on sale for a buy it now of $99.00. The problem (at least for me) is shipping is over $150, and that's to a business, not a residence.

Victor

well, you can flip the lcd but then the FFC will be on the top(I think), I think I'm going to use only 2 pieces of wood to fasten the fram of the lcd to the pj frame(at the top and right side, with the lcd on the last metal frame before the front fresnel frame, between the last metal frame and the fresnel), I figure that should hold it, the lcd weighs like nothing, and then the left side(where the small FFCs are) and the bottom(where the big one is) I'll caulk or glue that part of the lcd metal frame to the pj metal frame just for stability.....one thing I've noticed is that the big FFC is really stiffly placed on the lcd and because of the small clearance between the metal frame and the fresnel frame, it'll have to hang straight down which means bending the FFC straight down...scary, I did that with my last pj but it wasn't nearly as stiff as this one...if it doesn't seem to want to bend that muc, I may end up placing the lcd in front of the front fresnel(essentially an unsplit design) which from what I'm reading may cause the "glowies"...its always something! good luck on yours

thats because they want to ship freight.

I want to buy it...

but they wont reply...and ship fedex ground...which i paid $25 to ship mine

well, I completed a couple of modifications...hopefully i will have an image this weekend

Completed tasks:

Modified LCD Mount
Rewired fans so that they all work
removed ALL boards not needed

To do:
Mount LCD (and figure out what position it needs to be in)
remove anti glare (im a wuss, still not sure if i am going to)
wire in the 12V power supply for the LCD
make a face plate for the new LCD inputs
cover all the old holes left from the old inputs
paint the case black

sounds like you're getting there! what do you have the fans wired to? the original power supply? where are you mounting the controller board?

I wired the fans all to the orginal power supply I only had one output working (the 2 grey wires) so i made a header to plug in all the rest of the fans into that one output.

there is a ton of air movement ionside that thing now!!


i will put the board where i can access inputs on the side of the case, i may have to mount it up top though if i am mounting it upside down....still have to do some testing with that


-J

sooo now the debate comes.....do i strip off at least the back silver layer??