Hi Guys,

I am new here and not exactly a D-I-Y person. (I usually pay an electrician to change light bulbs in my house ). But, I want to learn.

When I consulted my local D-I-Y gurus (none of whom, have built their own projector), they suggested that instead of trying to build an entire projector from scratch, I would be better off trying something simpler, first.

Like buying on old projector with a busted lamp, and retrofitting it with a Lumenlabs HID lamp. Has anyone here done anything like this before ? Would, really appreciate some pointers.

Apparently projectors with burnt out lamps are availabe very cheaply (on auction sites) in my part for the world. I am told this is because, the cost of a replacement lamp is more than half the cost of a new projector!

-Manoj.C

PS: I have my heart set on a 3year old Benq DLP projector. DLP supposedly being better than LCD, somehow.

If you struggle changing lightbulbs then it's probably best to avoid a lamp retro-fit. Most projectors have lamp detection circuitry that needs to be hacked as well as trying to fit the new lamp in somehow. Won't say that it can't be done, but probably not worth it. If it's only a blown bulb, fork out for a new one.

If you want to try complete DIY, then its not too hard to make yourself a true high-def projector. Here's what i'd be looking at for a fairly simple setup with more than acceptable results.

10.6" Samsung panel and controller, 1280x768 resolution so that shows 720P natively, as well as downscaling 1080 inputs. The controller has DVI, VGA, SVid, component inputs so you're pretty well covered. It is also an extremely easy panel to strip from its backlight.

Standard LL fresnel Lenses and triplet
LL Pro reflector
Precondensor
150W Ceramic core Metal Halide lamp
Coil/core lamp control gear
12cm fan (run it on 6v to keep it nice and quiet as the 150W setup doesn't need much cooling)

Apart from that, you'll need the materials to build the box and a bit of time to research what you need to build.

You can get all fancy and tricky with electronic control circuitry, there's a lot of options out there. My current feelings are that with a 150W setup there may not be any need to keep the cooling fan running after shutdown so a one-switch-does-all approach may work.

I converted Sanyo PLV-Z1 with 150W BLV TOP SPOT light bulb. It took me approximately 3 hours. Whole project including used (like new) projector from e-bay $280 Canadian dollars. I also have a DIY projector which took me 2 weeks to build and ~ $600. I get better picure quality with Z1, not to mention better Wife approval factor.

Hi there Cyclops,

Is the Sanyo PLV-Z1 easy to work with ? I mean, does it have a "lamp detection circuitry" (like ozstang65 mentioned) or any other complications that has to be worked around ? If it is I am willing to ditch the Benq and will start trawling the auction sites for it.

Also tell me more about the 150W BLV TOP SPOT light bulb that you mention. Does it need a ballast or something like that ? Or do I need to just screw it into a socket to get it working ? How many Lumens does it put out ? The home-theatre experts tell me I need about 1500.

Any idea about cost and shipping to India?

-Manoj.C

Yes, as a matter of fact Sanyo PLV-Z1, Z2 & Z3 are very easy to work with. You don’t need separate ballast, this projector is using 130W UHP bulb which is 100% Metal Halide compatible. Projector is not as bright as original but it work great. I had to order my BLV light bulb from French EBay seller; I couldn’t find it in America. Bellow you will find many pictures explaining whole process; unfortunately it’s a French forum. I used Google translator to read the topics. Good Luck.


Allinbox

Thanks guys, for all the advice.

-Manoj.C

I have a Sharpvision XV-H37VUA (See other thread ) Its specs say that the lamp is a 250W MH, so I guess that's a start.

There is somebody who attempted to modify 250W Sharp but I’m not sure how successful that was. Below is the link, it might be helpful.

250W Sharp.

HI Cyclop i have a mitsubishi su51 projector which i am planning to change the lamp. The original lamp is SHP almost same like UHP ( i have seen it in same category in the allinbox forum- i can read french). HOw can you be sure that the UHP can be replaced by metal halide, is it your guess or is it written in the projector or somewhere. can you give me your email address so i can contact you directly, i would be greatful.