question about the MST controller, how does it handle 4:3 input through composite, s-video, and vga?

Everything is scaled to fit the screen.

by scaled to fit the screen do u mean it's letterboxed on the sides or it's stretched to fill the LCD panel?

Stretched.

that is unfortunate. oh well. I'll probably end up buying one anyway. and btw, ur retrofit is amazing

Thanks

Maybe Johnzo will find a hidden menu that will enable 1:1 pixel mapping ??

i hope so. the only other way that I personally would be able to get 4:3 to the screen would be to run it through my e-box and use that to adjust aspect ratios.

For the S-video connector (or composite connection), the "scale" selection can be changed in the OSD of the controller, so you don't get it fully stretched, but like other inputs there is overscan (technically LCD doesn't have overscan, so it must be scaling issues)

you really inspired me to get my own projector going, now with the projector in hand, and the LCD on th eway i amgetting pumped!

-J

wow jonjandran you were right. im trying to get this ready for the new lcd. i took the lcd out and i took the controller out. i cut the metal from the side so the inouts could be exposed on the new board.

ill be cutting the frame this week for the lcd.

now this is the hard part. i dont understand how this thing is powered. rightnow it wont power on. i think the cable that has two black wires in it triggers the power. but i dont know what to connect it to. any ideas????

There are two black cables with two black wires that go to a switch that turn on the Eballast. You will need to run 12v to the two left black wires and ground to the two right wires if I don't have them backwards. You can check by plugging back in the controller and disconnecting the two black plugs and then turning on the projector. Then measure the voltage on the wires. But i'm pretty sure it was 12v on the left wires and ground on the right. that will turn on the Eballast.

well i though i was smart but i guess not.

um ok here is the cables that i think your talking about
Click to view attachment

now is it the two white cable that you are talking about. i think it is??

and what do you mean i have to run 12v to it. i dont get that.

also what does this cable power. or can it be used for anything else
Click to view attachment

Benjimatt,

Could you measure the voltages in those connectors. If that is a 3 pronge connector with only two wires, then one is probably 12V and the other ground. Stcik a voltmeter in there and see if you get +12v or -12v. If you read 0V then it is probably AC.

Also, could you measure the voltages on that 6 pin power connector to see which is 12V, which is ground, and if any are other voltages. That should provide clues on how to switch out the controller boards.

The large molex connector is the power adapter. 12v out is on the left and ground is second from the right I think. It also has a 5v wire and -12v and -5v I think. Use your multimeter and measure them.

The two white plugs with two black wires are the triggers for the ballast. They need to be hooked to the 12v and ground. that will act as a switch to turn on the ballast. The blue plug I don't recall what it's function was but it isn't needed.

The white connector nearest to the large molex power connector was the switch for the controller. It turned the controller on/off with the switch on the side of the projector.

Benjimatt,

When you measure the large molex connector and the 3 prong small molex onnectors, could you provide the pin numbers and voltages. I would like to see if I can get my board working.

Wow still wish I could have done that. just came back to see what was going on here and I see this!! sure wish I had gotten one of those projectors!! if they gave out a 6inch version Icould mod my prjector but that probubly wont happen great job, must be fun to have so many proejctors at one time!!

ha so im finding out that i dont have a voltmeter. so im going to buy one today and test these voltages.
now do i turn it on and just but the meter to the wire

Put the meter on 20v or Auto depending on the meter and hold the black lead to ground and start touching the prongs in the molex connectors with the red lead. You'll soon know the secrets of the world , or at least your projector. The projector will need to be on.

benjimatt, dude be very careful there are high voltages in the box and if you have not played with power be careful.

Im doing the same to my ASK 970 tonight as well, getting it ready for the 10.6" screen when it comes in next week.

Yeah, ditto that. Follow the one hand rule - never stick both yer mitts inside the box. Probe around with only one multimeter lead at a time. Life is short - why rush your ultimate demise? Think twice or thrice prior to doing anything.

just in the middle of doing so ill take a pic, here it is.

the green crosses these boards are not needed.

the red is the 12v in put to turn the ballast on. Red wire is 12+, blue is Ground.

cheers
Savo.

the bulb leads give a nice little jolt!!

Nice way of making a tablemounted pj into a ceiling mounted version. Can't wait to read your plog on this.

Will you paint this glossy black also for that added custom touch?

Victor

Ha ha Vic,

I was thinking of giving it that special two pack paint feel to fresh it up (black)

Im really impressed with these PJ's it gives a real even focus compard to some old type PJ's.

and the keystoning is just perfect for roof mounting.

the lumens out of these things is crazy the poor camera has issues taking photos.

heres a photo, hell bright!

this is with old LCD screen which is fully shot, the new one should be here next week if carpow sends it.

Niiiccceee picts. I would normally say that the lcd sacrificed contrast for brightness, but Jonjandran's mod proves that wrong. He actually got better lumens with his new lcd than the old specs say.

I wonder if the problem with the old lcd is the polarizers or the actual tft lcd. If it's the polarizers then it should be an easy fix. If it's the active matrix lcd then it's shot.

Edit: Ya know, now that I think of it I betcha it's the polarizers. That 575W MH bulb is awfully close. I betcha it's just cooking those polarizers over time.

phutton, even if the pol where shot you should see the gap between pixel, terrible, not really usable at all, but you could be right.

thought the cooling in these things are pretty well made.

jonjandran-

I know the bare panel is 239 mm wide. but how much of that can i use to mount the panel. I want to cut the plate my panel will sit on, but I'm not quite sure how much i should be leaving for the panel to hang over

you can also use the 12v 14v on board power supply for your LCD and fans.

i marked in the thicker red border.

going to bed its 1.30am...... dam tired

savo,

Is the 575w delivering a much brighter image than the mh from old 15"?

Victor

its killing my home projector, i would say about double brightness on the screen.

i didnt have any reflectors or bk7 etc....

left is the ASK 970 and right is 450 Lumen commercial projector using a 400W lamp similar to our DIY it uses a 6.4" LCD.

You can see that the ASK brightens the room a lot more, thats the only images i have.

There is more white with the ASK but there is also a grey lower border with the 400w PJ.

Hard to tell with those photos but in real life heaps brighter than the 400W.

Jon,

You say your getting 518 real lumens how is that compard to the new projectors out?

Im thinking the new ratings for commercial PJ's are bull?

My HC5000 is rated for 1000 lumens but I get 520 lumens with low lamp mode and 650 lumens with high lamp mode. But the Ask looks as bright as the HC5000 in High lamp mode.

The projectors with 1500-2000 lumen specs will put out that much but the pic will be unwatchable. When you calibrate it for a nice pic you will have between 450-700 lumens or thereabouts.

I guess another possibility is that the color filters might be shot. This would make sense if the 575 watt MH bulb was putting out a lot of UV and there was nothing to block it.

i thought the UV is blocked via heat glass.

Jon,

Which PJ do you prefer?

turbo timers work well (stays on for 90 secs), and also used a relay switch which only needs 400uA to power it so i can use the invert 12v from the MST board when it comes.

$45 Aust for the two kits.

Dam i going to be so lazy the remote will do everything

if anyone wants a wiring diagram let me know before i put the PJ back together.

Of which ones ?

the HC or the ASK? i know there in different classes but?

Well there isn't much to compare. the HC5000 is a $4500 1080p 1000 lumen projector. It's nearly flawless in all respects.

I think you already know the answer

Benjimatt,

Any progress. Haven't heard from ya. Hope all is well.

ill be posting a blog tonight

didnt shock your self

nope still alive but you guys are going to laugh

And I thought I was a tease.

Back on topic

My 960 had a baby :



Introducing the Ask Impression 880.

It has an 8.4" 800x600 Lcd. It has a slightly different pre-con then the 960. This pre-con is wider and fatter and has the top/bottom cut off. It sits a little farther back from the lamp. And the whole lamp assembly sits about 2" farther from the Lcd than the 960.

The 880 has a much simpler Eballast and Lcd controller.

And I think a 10.6" Wxga will fit in just fine. Just need to see if the triplet I am getting (220mm) will be able to "see" the whole Lcd with such a short front/rear focal length.

Well here's some pics.