Finally my PJ up and running, but it's look more blue instead of white brite as i saw some of the finished project here. I'm also using T15 6500K lamp. Tried to adjust LCD but still not much help. (I got LCD's AG removed)

thanks

yeah i have had the same issue its like a errie blue overlaying the image im using a 5k lamp
-My tv tuner had blue lvls that I could turn down, so did my pc, try that it wont be 100% but it helps

-also my newer lcd had color temps you can change around on the lcd

good luck

How long have you been using the lamp? I haven't had any firsthand experience with the LL version - but most MH lamps need to run for quite a while >100hrs total before the color output stabilizes. My lamp, Osram HQI400, was greenish for the first 20 hrs or so - and then leveled out to a more even white. It is still a bit green for the first min or two when I first turn it on - and it seems to me that it takes a few hours almost of continuous run time before it's at 100% - as far as colors go.

I was going to say the same thing as p_su, but not as eliquently... I just want to say that I 'second' p_su's post.

Also, don't discount the power of giggling the cable...

Also, from what I've heard, a 5k lamp should look yellow, a lamp with a very high color temp (say 6.5k+) should look blue.

Probably an alignment issue. Bulb too close or too far away from the rear fresnel (can't remember exactly which one produces a blue hue). Adjustment is required

To expound on ozstang65's comment finding the sweet spot for the arc may be done in the following fashion. Move the arc fore and aft noting the two positions resulting in yellow and blue corners in your projection. Do it without the LCD in if possible but it should work with the LCD in as well. I've only done it with the LCD out but will try it sometime with the LCD in. The spot in between the two extremes giving the blue or yellow fringing is at or very near the sweet spot.

thanks for your tip, I ran my PJ about <10hours, so much be active for longer huh? so i don't need to adjust anything right?

I want to ask your opinions on the temp colors you see here in these 4 photos. What is your view on the warmth?

BTW, this is all from a 5200k S400DD 400w Ushio using a S51 ballast that wasn't overclocked.

...not exactly sure if this is what you're asking for, but:


I'd say #2 looks the best.
Naa, changed my mind, 3 iz better.

Ok, what's your opinion on these 2 comparisons? Once again, same bulb, same ballast.

The bottom one looks much better, brighter too. She kinda looks dead in the top one.

Ok, last one. Same as above, bulb and ballast.

That one's a little tougher... I think the bottom one looks better overall, but a little bright, it might be the DIY Pro Image though, the highlighting is weird if I remember correctly.

The warmth of the Ushio S400dd bulb you have been choosing that looks better to you Hirudin are when it has been standing up on it's base and not laying down on it's side. The temp rating of the bulb makes a big difference of course just as overpowering it as well. But I've come to realization that the position of the way the arc burns is also a factor. Perhaps, in this case, using the metal halide Ushio it does appear this way. I just may try reinstalling my ceramic arc 400w Philips with it's 4000k just to see if manipulating it's arc position makes the same difference.

Sim: What are the specifics of these 4?

BTW.....

Thought someone would have asked

Figured it wuz somethin' like dat 'cause o' da ring-o-light effect. Cool.

I was wondering what the secret was going to be. I figured it might just be from moving the bulb back and forth...

Very intresting!