I need help with what parts i should get for a 10.6" wxga. I'm mostly going to play xbox 360 on it but will watch movies too. It'll most likely end up in my room infront of my closet. Screen size will be about 85 inches. I will put it about 10 feet away. What will putting the projector to the side do to my image?anything? I'm looking to spend about 400-500 so if you guys could help with good cheap parts and where to get them that would be great. Or if you have been sucessful with this lcd that would be nice to see some pics of it in action. Thanks.

My suggestion, if this is your first build, would be to:

A. Read pretty much every stickied thread in all the forum sections. This will give you a headstart on understanding all the parts of a DIY PJ.

B. Wait till a couple 10.6 PJs are done being built and read their plogs. There are a lot of people working on 10.6 projects right now and many are LL elite and others on on their second build, myself humbly included.

I think if you follow the progress of a couple 10.6 builds and maybe even read the plogs of some of the famous PJs out there you won't need to ask such a general question, rather you will be able to focus on more specific concerns.

Welcome to LL and I hope you enjoy the DIY experience.

What about using this on an overhead projector. Anybody tried this or had any luck with it. I just feel like i don't know enough to make my own projector. I haven't gotten any responses for parts to buy and all that.

Then don't. Not yet. No sense in buying parts when you don't really know if they all work together (you'll just end up wasting money). There are way too many variables to simply feed you a list of parts. I second cpsubrian's suggestion to wait and watch the other 10.6 builds. Then you can replicate what works.

Theres no need to be discouraged
And the guys are right, take your time with it.

Go over the guide and see how the parts work, and how it all comes together.
http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?showforum=45

Then check out some plogs. There are many 1st timer plogs going on any given week, so theres plenty of technical, and moral support in the forums.

My brother wants me to just get a ohp and use that. Seems a lot more simpler way to do it. But, if i wanted to change out a bulb in a projector couldn't i use any bulb that would fit that socket. And does any1 know if 4000lumen would be nice and bright for about a 100 inch screen. the reason i want to do a bulb replacement is because the bulbs only last like 100 hours or so

I've seen several PJs based on OHPs that had really good results. With control of light leakage, and proper cooling, I don't see why you couldn't make this work quite well.

You can always use that while gathering parts and building a 'proper' PJ. Of course, you'll probably be too busy watching/playing to do much building!

I don't im mixed up what i want to do because i think im catching on to what to use on the parts.after just reading pages and pages of 10.6" wxga stuff

first things first.. go make yourself a pot of coffee then come back and read, read, read, read!! as cpsubrian said, read the sticky topics. also be sure to read the tools and reference threads. then check out some plogs. look for designs and ideas you like and think you can do.

most people list there parts in their plog. still can't figure out what you need? LL sells kits, just buy one of them..

Ok im finally back and after switching between a 15" and a 17" and 15.4" about 10 times i am finally going with the 10.6 as originally planned. haphazard will hopefully help cut wood and ship it along with most of my parts soon. I already sent money for bulb ballast and base. I am getting a 400wushio bulb that they used to sell at LL. Maybe if i am lucky by weekend I can get the pj started with some pics of at least the bulb. I plan to have this thing done at least by next weekend for spring break. I am not sure about what to do with a fan. What do you guys suggest I do. I am trying to think about one of those slits on top with a fan to take off some of the heat of the lcd, but not sure what would be best for not a lot of light leakage or none at all. Let me know

A dust-filter of sorts is generally used, and an indirect (but sizable) boxing to help with light-spillage (generally with fan/opening at rear of PJ, and preferably pulling air thru a filtered-slot placed so cool-air runs past the panel first (then towards/past lamp).
Look for some basic-plogs to see what others have done with flashing and such.
Happy to start discussing the exact-specs for cutting your case whenever...but you need to decide/specify what sled might be appropriate (split or unsplit?). Unsplit might be best, but not if you intend to keystone...
You'll also need to plan (if I remember measurements-correctly) for a horiz.-mount of that 400w, and a pre-con may be a good-suggestion...particularly if you go with a simple/open lamping and skip the heat-shield. You also need to tell me what sheet-good you want for your case...?
You ordered a triplet? What focus-mech -- maybe the shower-drain, or modified 3" ABS&screw-fitting? [Or shall I leave front&rear case-panels to your modifications there?] I'll recommend a sled-design when you inform adjustability required and spec case-material (so I know if all 'inside-corners' need reinforcing).

I don't know what kind of material i want whatever is pretty sturdy and affordable. I'll go with the pre con. I'll figure out the focus mech later on after i get the box. I'll look at fan things tonight about what to do. I'll do similar to wat you said put the fan in the back and cut out a hole and pull the air out jus putting a filter around it.

I'll buy a sheet of whatever you specify...3/8" A/C plywood? 1/4" masonite? 1/2" mdf? Avoidance of internal-bracing with 3/4" CDX?<g>
You are going to what --paint?
And you want this cut to a suitable-spec for a what --split-or-unsplit-sled? [Sled having slotted-top, and under-frez slot for ventilation (and you'll add filtering to case-top later)?]
I wish you'd be more specific (I could fashion whatever you'd specify)...
Do you know the length from mogul-bottom to arc-center in the bulb you are getting?
Also, which pair of frez will you want? 320mm for front, but 200mm for-rear, or go with a pre-con and 320mm for rear, as well?
Shall I pre-drill/CS for screws, or will you use appropriate finishing-nails and Elmers? Can you 'economize' re: shipping by ripping your own 1X1 and/or buying 3/4"-quarter-round, and cut these to proper-lengths?
BTW...'no way in heck' by weekend--earliest POSSIBLE shipping by Mon/Tues, and that's only if you get real-specific, real-quick!<g>

final decision on parts
standard triplet LL
ushio 400w bulb ballast and base from simp1yamazn
pro reflector LL
2 320mm frezzies for unsplit setup (better setup) HapHazard
10.6 wxga Haphazard
box graciously from hap hazard


so far i have ordered everything and is shipped except for haphazards stuff which will be ordered shortly enough. My box will be with unsplit fresnels which will hopefully give me a little bit brighter image. This is also paired with the 400w bulb. Definitely should be bright. Inside will be flat black. Ventilation will probably be with 2 slots above and below lcd panel. cool air blowing beneath and top being a opening for hot air. I will also get a precon to help block heat from the fresnels. Hopefully will have all parts in hand by next friday to start off my spring break . I will be using it a lot over that time. I will be updating a lot once i start receiving parts and will be putting up plenty of pics because of the lack of pics of the 10.6. Need i remind you i am a newbie so this might look bad at first. I will try to just throw everything in there and get it working with a "watchable" picture. Then i will move frezzies, precon, lighting and what not in. Focus mech will most likely be some kind of screwing mechanism or shower drain (which i believe or sort like screw if im thinking of the right one). Anyways hopefully some1 will be watching this plog and maybe get some inspiration of the stuff i couldn't find. Total cost including the parts above will be about 350$. I will have to buy a fan and ps for it. that may be alittle more plus a ps for the lcd.

$350 is not bad for a wxga projector!

I cant wait to start mine... I have all the parts... just lazy.

you have allot better chance of succeeding than I did!! And a great start to! Hope you don't have any troubles at all

got my first part today. venture ballast. its freakin heavy. don't know how heavy an average one is but this one weighs 10.5 lbs. hopefully i will get my bulb reflector triplet and base by tuesday.

Wow...that is heavy (a 150w-Sola MBall is a tad under 9, and I thought EBall's were lighter...?). [Or is it an EBall?]
I'm building-in added length fore/aft for 'eventualities' that you can easily cut-back later (owing to 'slide-back' nature of front/rear endcaps), but shoot-me dimensions of base-bottom-to-arc and ballast when possible.
Your sled, as discussed, will be 'substantive', and add some to width/height -- but I REALLY hope the small panel/case doesn't require a diagonal-mount to get arc-to-center (if we encounter that situation, I'd suggest cutting a base-size hole in PJ-side then space-out as required for a simpler horizontal-orientation for bulb/base).
Your PJ, however, should be very-small/very-bright...!
I hear elsewhere the Ushio has a shorter-arc than the current T-15-style...so that should-help PQ.
Unsplit should be best (but I'm planning-in a mount possibility for split, in case you decide-otherwise, later -- no 'dimensional-harm' in-that)...
EDIT: No-way that Ushio is gonna mount horizontally...the smallest-measurement I found from mogul-base to arc-center is around 7.75", or even-more (for longer-ver.). This panel, plus even a 1-1/4" sled-side, would only allow for 6"-or-so. We can maybe go with a diagonal-mount (Ushio is a 'universal', anyway), if we 'squeeze' and you have the shorter-Ushio [but will you then be able to replace that-bulb with 'short', I think the newer-stock are the-longer?], or we can elect to add-width -- maybe only on one-side?
I think I'll just start with sled and cut only case-sides until you can figure-out this 'wrinkle' after 2:45...hopefully you'll have bulb/base by then -- but I believe that with this-and-similar lamping, we'd better-allow at least 8-1/4" base-to-arc-center (and that's from a diagonal-piece for mount, that has to be the width of that large-mogul -- these lamps are _monster_ compared to the teensy-150's! <g>)
As for length, the 320mmX2 plus 60-or-so for the frez-panel-area requires 27.5"-interior, so allowing an extra 5-6" for ballast/light-engine room takes you to 34" or less. Allowing for end-caps, I'm going to cut sides/top at 37" (more than enough, without much extra shipping-expense, and you can shorten as desired after you complete your design/tests/final-measurements).
Outside case-height will be 9" (unless you want more for 'bulb-room'?).
So--we still have 'details' to discuss...
[From PM:]
QUOTE
yes i do like the 120 mm intake. the lengths you mentioned for the dimensions are fine. The bases diameter is 2 inches and its 2.5 inches long. The 7 inches i mentioned is actually about 6.9 or so to the center of the arc its really close.Just tally up money and when i should pay you. I'll be on the computer tonight if you need me. My excitement for building my pj has been brought down by the lamp and bulb. don't really know how to wire it or to figure out how i would power it/ turn it off and turn it on.


I'll walk you through the entire-process...don't be 'down in mouth' about lamp (although it is a whopper...it should prove VERY bright, and relatively cheap-to-replace and long-lasting). Also, the arc is relatively-short for a 400w-er, and and color-quality is OK...
Wiring is not as involved as you'd imagine...you'll basically have a master-switch (which turns-on the 12v fan/controllers/panel), and another-switch that turns-on ballast>lamp...the order reversed when turning-off.
Many Plogs at LL detail the wiring-options...
We'll discuss all-this in your plog after-delivery.
I already sent you a list of other/additional expenses (should you want pre-cons/etc. from me), and balance on mat./kit -- but until case is packaged/weighed, I've no idea what it will cost to ship (if it gets really-heavy, there is Watkins (where I have a commercial-account) or Greyhound -- but prolly USPS).
If you had answered my question about 'how base attaches' I could have easier-figured your diagonal-mount. Instead, I'll send you a stout/5" piece of pre-bent metal you can drill for base and mount with some 1/2"-screws (I think I'll also throw-in most of the screws you'll need for assembly, and pre-drill a lot of it). Glad you are OK with the length. I suggest you just paint interior with high-heat flat-black spray-paint and prime-only the exterior before using and finding perfect-positioning of case-front/triplet and finish all stuff in case-rear (then, lop-off the excess front/rear to end-caps, or within an inch of them -- which could be done 'assembled' on a table-saw -- if CAREFUL).
Then touch-up sanding/primer/paint when you have-time/incentive.
I have to assume that your replacement lamp will go perhaps 8-1/4" base-to-A.C. -- and you didn't answer re: asymmetrical-widening of box. So, I will make the sled, then add whatever spacer-stock is required on both-sides for a diagonal-mount of your-choosing later (the panel itself is only 9.5" X 5.75" -- so a teensy-case as you initially specified is possible, but that would crowd-everything and may be unsafe, and never be suitable with any high-lumen lamp...so your case (once I figure for the waste at a-corner to fit a 2"-base) will end-up with interior-measurements of about 14" X 10" or-so. Still very-small, as these lcd-PJ's go (and your final-length MAY be as short as 28" or-less -- depending on how cleverly you install ballast/shielding/fans/etc.).
I'll get an early-start. However, you also did not answer my questions about how Inputs will either be fed by 'pigtail(s)' and from-where, or controller poke-out case-side (and if-so, with daughtercard?). Given all-above, and need to get your approval AND your-payment for shipping-cost (and need for me to sorta 'crate' this mess so nothing is damaged en-route) -- it won't get mailed until at-least tomorrow. That should still reach you Mon., if not Sat. (and you'll PLEASE take your time during assembly and remaining-planning!).
You MUST be careful with positioning/shielding/etc. since these bulbs get VERY hot (and can set cases-afire or damage-panels if not ventilated properly). And, the voltage from a ballast/capacitor is VERY dangerous IF you really screw-up and/or grab the wrong-thing (even shortly-after unplugging-all). I want you to thoroughly discuss decisions/progress/assembly with us in your Plog after receipt -- and continue to involve your dad in this project -- as he has-been to date (as a 'double-check' for at-least those things related to your safety [even if he's uncomfortable cutting things like case-elements] and the safety of his-home!). People your-age and under build such-things on a regular-basis ... but some get 'over-eager' or otherwise 'pay-dear' (read Ziggy's Plog...he blew a grand). A PJ like this can last for years...don't sweat not being done by end of one school-break...someone your-age has 'nothing but time', and can afford to let many of us at LL help you avoid any unfortunate-mistakes...
In fact, now that you've informed me of your age, I'll want your phone number so I can confirm that your dad will be 'supervising' this over-all project -- and I'll ship to him. I didn't sell you the ballast/etc. nor encourage you initially to build one of these PJ's, but I want no liability later if he doesn't exercise appropriate parental-oversight "in eyes of Law". Don't take-offense, but sillier-stuff has hit courtrooms...believe-me...
[end quote]
Let's just continue correspondence in here...these PJ-discussions are helpful to others...after-all.
You _should_ be using 'time in interim' to read other-Plogs related to designing light-engines (mounts for pre-cons and reflectors) and placement/wiring/shielding of ballast/rear-fan/switches/wiring/grounding/etc. AND the safety-warnings found readily in LL...

And more:
So, I nearly finish your sled (played-around and ran 2X4 stock through a planer for 'truing') and figured thicknesses for spacing and secondary-frame for sled, then go to first-cut on plywood for case...and my tablesaw of seventeen-years (which, btw, I consider a 'pretty new tool' -- although it's older than some peeps I-know<g>) blows-up one of it's motor-brushes! [And I'm about 65-miles from anywhere with a good-selection of brushes (TraverseCity) and proper replacements are no longer made/offered). Had to go to town, find similar, remake my own brass brush-holder, modify the channels in motor for new assembly, and pretty-much blew the day. Sorry.
Tomorrow should be 'more productive'.
I will attempt to also make a mounting-plate for your controller-inputs--but it's going to be tight for cable-length from panel with daughtercard (which apparently you'll need, since you PM'd today about using/wanting Composite -- to see this controller/daughtercard, go to FAQ-page: http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...d=222023&#). Punisher is the only-guy to create a custom-plate for external-Inputs...and he had to get a custom-cable to allow folding the daughtercard (a cable I don't-have)...I'll attempt a straight-across tomorrow--perhaps of opaque-plastic flush with interior ahead of sled-bottom (either interrupting or on top-of the 1X3/4 corner-bracing...).
This 'roughed out case' is getting a tad complicated...but it is sorta 'fun' (kinda getting into-it now). Your bulb will fit, and you'll be able to switch from unsplit to split (if you ever care-to).
Only 'problem' I see so-far is Carpow's polars (which are what you want...better than SHC's -- at least they are with lesser-bulbs...?), which have a sticky-face [good-thing], but which got some bits of sawdust on same [bad thing?]. I'll attempt to clean them...but you may want to order a new-set (especially if you end up ever doing frez-shifting and/or replacement, or go to 'split'). Fortunately, they are only 4. (as long as someone is ordering from Carpow anyway...and remailing is way-cheap).
I'll be shipping the sled with frez/panel installed, and sled sandwiched between/among case-parts (for safety during shipping). Priority shipping Thurs should get it there either Sat. or (more likely) Mon. I'll weigh the mess tomorrow and advise you tomorrow-night as to shipping-cost (15 lbs is a good-guess, so prolly around 19. to Ohio plus ins.).
It's 9:30...I'll check back around 10:30 to see if there's feedback/requests...or post in AM.

i think for cooling i will have a bottom fan pull cool air between lcd and second freznel. I will also place another fan in the rear to either side of the box to pull hot air out of the box past the lamp. at the top of the intake fan will be a slit for air to escape. My box is going to be larger than panel so any light gets out of the box will be light that is not going to hit the panel.

An exhaust fan-or-fans (preferably at-rear, so as to draw air past lamp/pre-con) might best be located at top-of-rear (since heat-rises)...with area at bottom/side of rear a good spot for install of ballast/shield-over-it.
I doubt you'll need a 'helper-fan' in case-front (we discussed 120mm hole at front/bottom? but it could go anywhere in front). But this cool-air will go into top of sled at-front, then down to rear-section case-bottom between the panel and frez via slots (which won't bleed much light). Where you might have light-'spillage' is at fan(s)-rear, and intake-front. At front, a filter is good for keeping dust-out (and blocks/limits light-spill, as would a cloth over hole). At rear, construct a sufficient-sized flashing/'boxing' around opening, so that light can't directly shine-out (look around at other Plogs -- and use the Search function for titles containing "ventilation" "cooling", etc. for ideas.
The slot-arrangement I built into sled for you will be about 1/2" X 9" -- probably enough to cool-panel, but maybe not sufficient to keep rear-section cool (so you may need to check frez-temp, and subsequently install a small secondary air-intake at bottom-rear, maybe under and just-ahead of your pre-con setup?).

ok sounds good i have about a 3 year old dell downstairs thats no longer in use. for now ill use that as a fan. It will probably be 80mm but will increase later on to a 120 mm in the back. I was actually thinking of adding that 'heat rises so put the fan at the top' thing in there, but i figured every1 would know it so it would be inferred. I don't know why i was worried about the bulb. yesterday i had a really bad headache almost the entire left side of my head from the back all the way to the top part of my eye socket. I think it might have just thrown my thinking off. what type of shield should i use around the ballast?

I will be using metal flashing, got it at home depot... it's a sheet of metal. About 10$

Not trying to belabor-the-obvious -- I was just attempting to make-clear and justify some of the placements suggested. I wasn't certain as to what: "a bottom fan pull cool air between lcd and second freznel. I will also place another fan in the rear to either side of the box to pull hot air out of the box past the lamp. at the top of the intake fan will be a slit for air to escape" actually 'meant'? "My box is going to be larger than panel so any light gets out of the box will be light that is not going to hit the panel" is kinda-clear, and we just want to avoid any light-loss (which can contribute to ambient-lighting and hurt image--although with your-lamp, and rear-placement of PJ, if you have any 'gain' in screen-surface, you'll have plenty of 'brightness'!?).
Your case, so I'll happily locate stuff as wished...
But, you don't want three-fans, all pulling-pushing when dealing-only with a middle/single-bottlenecking of only 1/2"x9" as a 'maze-drop' (it weak-links the scheme, and 3-fans might get noisy).
For example, I could -- in alternative -- cut a slot at-top/over-frez/panel-juncture that's 1/2"x9" or-so, and still leave room for 1" x 10" of 3/4" filter-material under-that in sled-top member...if you like? Then no-worries about blocking a bottom-opening on dresser... [But, whatever decided, I advise only exhaust fan(s), some intake-feed 'twixt panel/frez, then supplement if required by additional intake(s) just-fore the pre-con...at bottom or side(s).]
Maybe the best thing (unless I hear otherwise) would be for me to mark interior for both approaches (a sled-slot arrangement and a forward hole with sled-slot addressing) and you can choose 'which' when working on the-thing? There would also be a little-time Thurs.-a.m. for me to implement whatever we may decide about that tonight or tomorrow...

['Headache' sounds like sinus-pressure (and highly-suspect this time of year)...try a nasal-spray to test my 'diagnosis'. If you get near-instant relief...then consider a low-dose anti-histamine during this seasonal-change after first-sign of congestion/headache (nasal-spray gets 'addictive')...]

Flashing mentioned can work fine for shielding lamp-heat/radiation from ballast (and an arrangement around fans blocking-light)...just leave top-part open so ballast-heat escapes (have to say-it!) 'up'...<g>

lets just do the slit above the lcd/frezzies or wherever it will be most useful. Then we will have one fan at the back/top above lamp as exhaust. If this is not efficient enough i will do something on the bottom as well. (another opening or fan).

Sounds fine...wilco...

So...almost finished...sorta.<g>
Had to toss the first sled-arrangement (wasn't solid-enough, and too much 'wiggle-room' in slots for the frez). The second-one is done now, much more solid, and incorporates a large top-slot (about 1.3x1.5x11") for filter (and I'll provide filter...cut from a permanent furnace-filter). Slot below (feeding between panel and frez) is 1/2"x9", and exits-bottom into a routed 3/4"x11" lower-opening into rear-portion. Very solid/adjustable--so now your PJ interior is 15"x11-3/8" (just enough for you to mount-lamp horizontally...but I'll include metal for a diagonal-mount, in case your next-lamp selection is larger). Also, the case is cut and inner 7/8"x7/8" corner-bracing -- case is currently 35-1/2" long (but you'll no-doubt shorten that considerably). I still have to pre-install the bracing for you (and packaging), and figure-out how to crate all this so that nothing is damaged when shipping. Since bracing will be pre-screwed--what you will do to move either end-cap towards-center is just unscrew-bracing and shorten, evenly, to 1/2" less than total-desired (then reinstall-cap and cut-back case on table-saw).
At any rate, the whole mess will be heavy, but the sled/frez/panel will be well-protected within (I think I'll install 1/4", screwed-on sides -- making the whole-thing into a 15x6x36" 'crate', such that the big-sides visible are actually the case-interior).
I will cut slot in top over-sled opening, and slot for Inputs to controller (which BARELY fits--the cable within 1/8" of being too-short!). If I have time, I'll make the plate to surround those varied-inputs and block slot from interior (if not, I'll include material for you to fuss with it...in meantime you could just cover/tape around input(s) to stop light-spill).
If there is no 'problem' tomorrow, I should get this shipped (I can finish with battery-tools, if need-be -- I'm expecting a power-outage, what with this 6-10" of heavy-snow...yuk!).
You are light:
60. for kit
16. for pre-cons + reflectors
10. for power-supply
17. for materials
30. (?) for shipping
Paypal 135. -- then I'll send you change if shipping is less, or if much-more, you can send-later (if a few-bucks more, I'll gift-it).
[I can just talk to your dad before package-arrival...since he's aware of this 'project' already.]

Bunch of pics/and some questions in my-Plog, guy...

So...let's start seeing some in-yours!

Yes...neither snow nor sleet nor dead-of-night kept me from the PostOffice today...
And I made those changes you wanted.
Click to view attachment
Here you see backspaced braces for the controller. You'll use the 1-5/8" DW-screws to secure it back-here, then 1-1/4 screws to fasten-controller(s) [just tighten to touch the board!] -- which will lay flat when on-these. I predrilled, and spaced so you can apply a cut-out facing within PJ 3/16's-to-1/4" thick (you can use the 'sides' I applied to 'crate' for this--they are 1/4" luan, with good-side-in...and there is plenty, once you unscrew the crate, to make 3-or-4 attempts at a 'neat input-surround')

Get the picture?
Click to view attachment
Those cables, btw, are your 'eye' for the remote-control (you'll want to drill a small-hole out the front or side of PJ you'll use remote-from), and the OSD-buttons (which I would just secure in-case, for use when testing).

Crating begun...
Click to view attachment
PS is secured with screws/tape, and same-height sled. Controller and reflectors 'snug' under where endcaps will wedge. Sled is screwed from-beneath.

Pre-cons atop and taped...
Click to view attachment

Braces now screwed to sled, and more bubblewrap between end-caps and sled (also threw-in some wrapped screws and wire-lengths for you...but switches I found were 'low-voltage').
Note that LVDS-cable is taped so it can't vibrate against panel, and a layer of bubble-wrap under FCC prevents that jumping-around (and I reinforced FCC's with masking-tape).
Click to view attachment

Sides added (in full-contact with all beneath, after that 1/4"-spacer which also separates-pre-cons on end-caps).
The sides, also, are screwed in-place...
Click to view attachment

Last side on, and screwed to rest...and cut-down luan-plywood made-the-sides (light, but strong) and more-screws, and some good/old duct-tape in corners, completed the crate (save those screws after removal!).
Click to view attachment
Altogether (minus coffee and drill) it weighs-in at 43+-lbs! In this size, it would have been onerous to send Priority (would have incurred size/weight surcharges also). We determined that, with the holiday, it would arrive there by Tues. whether sent Priority or ParcelPost. I did that, and bought 300. in insurance (and took these and other-photos in case we have to argue for any collection on insurance).
However...unless they drag that crate behind their truck by a rope-or-chain while going to Ohio, I think 'all will arrive safely'...<g>

Tomorrow, we start posting about your wiring-setup, ballast and other-placements, lamp-mounting, etc. -- and I believe you have some Lumenlab-reading to catch-up on.
Polars are 'less than perfect', as I warned (but should be 'quite-watchable' as-is). I spoke with Johnzo and asked him to save you a set (they are cheap, and mailing is inexpensive).

I shall now rest my weary/cold/old-bones, and get with you tomorrow. <whew!>

ya i was too lazy to find the camera for pics. I'll take them now nothing real special about the stuff i got, but ill take them anyway.

Good...we should start discussing your ballast and your wiring.
Basically, you want two-switches at case-rear...one for low-voltage/12v fan(s) and panel, and other for your lamp (good setup with two...so you can leave fan(s) on for awhile after turning-off that nuclear-powered lamp).
Your lamp-size was a large-factor in why I added 3/4" to interior-dimensions for a horizontal-mounting...this is really a tiny-case for that DeathStar to glow-in...<g>
I provided a maximum-sized and 'opening to larger' slot into that sled...I just hope that's enough air-intake... [you will HAVE to diligently watch the temps during-testing...you may need to add ventilation. [Another rationale for horizontal-mount is the relative-ease of adding spacer-stock beneath mogul to center the arc...much easier than figuring-angles for a diagonal-mounting]
You also need to consider your screen...one of those 'specials' that pull-down from tigerdirect might be suitable?
Your PS/12v will arrive 'spliced' with long-lead for controller...but should be mounted in case-front. the splice provides you with a place to get power back to fan(s). When you determine how-many wires must lead to/from case-front, you can then 'groove' the sled-bottom to accommodate the wires (if you are careful this can be done, while still assembled and protected with taped-on paper-shields, with repeated/controlled 'passes' on your dad's table-saw until just-enough to allow wires...
[I already painted the sled flat-black for you...so try not to disassemble until you are ready for either new-polars, or frez-adjustments]

ok well you are going to have to help me a lot with wires and help me with what i need to buy. I still don't even know how to hook up my bulb to my ballast.

Dunno about "have to", but we'll certainly suss-it-out...<g>
Did the fellow who sold them to you volunteer any info (when I sold my 150w-setup, I pre-wired it and sent explicit-directions to epitaphILIP -- just as a courtesy). The ballast itself may have a wiring-schematic on-label (not always 'clear'). I'll suggest you ask for info from seller/former-user and soon post a pic of that-label (or at least give the exact name/model of ballast/lamp).
There are two-phases to this wiring you'll address -- the wires after entering/120v-current reaching the lamp-circuit, and the PJ-related switches/wiring controlling 120v to lamp-gear AND your new PS. You need to decide how complicated you want the-latter (some install fuse(s), other's relays for auto-off on fan(s) after turn-off, etc.). Let's first deal with 'how to wire ballast/lamp'...[also, I sent some lengths of sturdy/stranded wire].
Find your cam, yet? To post pics in-here 'easily', you'll have to use IrfanView or some-such to reduce the .gif/.jpg size/kb. to under 110kb-per-post...

ok i got the pics before but i didn't know how to resize them. i have them now.

Click to view attachment

http://www.venturelighting.com/VLPS/Ballas...MH/V90D6413.pdf thats the link to the wiring diagram for it. I have tons of extra wires for it and i don't know which ones i should use.

Well, the black&white one in your pic on the-left will attach to Capacitor, the red already on Cap will attach to black on Mogul. On the right, the Purple, Black and Tan ones won't be used at-all (the orange-one will go to your 'hot' on switch, as fed by black from wall). Ground from wall will go to the ballast-frame...
I don't know why there are two-white-wires on the right, however...? Presumably, one of those would tie-in with neutral/white from wall as well as the white-wire on mogul, but the other-one? huh...
Write the guy who had it working...(or ask him to stop-in here). BTW, I thought you were getting an EBallast...that's an MBall [no biggee, just 'misheard' you].

I'll post this now, in case you get package after school and 'jump-in'...
Disassemble crate methodically and s-l-o-w-l-y...keeping all screws. Go around perimeter-first (and keep those luan-pieces for later input-facing) and then carefully look for screws holding things in-place.
Don't assemble directly...for one thing, you need at least a 120v cord to go to front of case for the 12v-PS...so you'll want to mask-off both-sides and top of your sled before making properly-positioned multiple-passes on table/circular-saw of correct-depth for that--on sled under-side).
Start posting in here with wiring and related questions _before_ jumping-in to drilling and assembly.
Oh...and if there is any obvious damage from/during shipping, document your un-packaging of it with your cam...
I'll check back every-day during your break for purposes of helping you plan-steps during construction/assy -- and other-folks will join-in as well (you needn't re-invent the wheel).

so uhh ya little disapointed it didn't come today. Usually post office delivers mail at 12 or so. Maybe it will come around 4ish i don't know. o well not that big of a deal.

Still 'not'. I take it?
So, did you write the seller of that ballast/lamp? Have you given much thought to how you intend to mount a reflector/pre-con?

ok so when i go to home depot what are the exact names of the things i will need. I am going to have 2 switches. Nothing crazy just 2 of them. 1 for lamp and 1 for fans.

Maybe just get one duplex/dual switch (to save space), and a smallish metal/grounded box to contain it? [One that comes with screw-down wire-retention?] You'll also need some sort of grounded pigtail/extension coming-from/going-to a grommet(?) on PJ's back or rear-side -- for bringing-in wall-current. Find some small-wire (crappy/lightweight extension-cord?) to bring 12v current back from PS-splice to rear fan(s), also...
One-half of switch will send 120v to PS [and from-there, also turn on fan(s), while itself enabling current for thast second-switch], and the second-switch can then turn-on the ballast...[have you or your-dad looked at wiring diagrams in other-Plogs?]

as I have stated stuff hasn't come again. Do you have a tracking number or something?

i have written the seller and haven't given much thought to reflector. I didn't really even think about it till you mentioned it.I will look around plogs to see what they do and maybe see if i can find some suggestions.

Haven't thought about getting-one, or mounting-it? [A lot of peep's use the fan-grills from 120mm'puter-fans for reflectors and pre-cons, cutting-out their-middles then bolting the four-ends together into a holder...four long/fully-threaded bolts could mount to anything, then nuts on those bolts could provide considerable-adjustment...]
No tracking with USPS...(but did insure/RRR)...

i got the stuff today unpacking it as i speak. will take the pics as i go.

So they dropped at neighbor?
Slow and cautious, now (no gaming tonite!). And ground-yourself prior to handling controller.

for the black 'box' that contains lcd freznels and what not, are they in order and measured and what not? Click to view attachment