[Edit: A thread assembling Intro-material and a FAQ for these 10.6" panels/controllers can be found at:
http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...st&p=218890 ]

One might best view this as a 'Virtual-Plog' -- since I may never reach the stage of 'actual assembly' following test-bed atrocities.<g> For me, most of the phunn/interest will be in the tweaking/experimentation...to see just what can be squeezed-out of this unique panel, and participation/toying with the endless mods/innovations toyed-with in LL.
Not one to just jump-in and build _anything_ [and this, a Builder speaking! <g>], I've read through the majority of this and other forums seeking an 'ideal' parts-list. I had thought that ideal would evolve into a PJ designed-around a 15.4" laptop/wuxga panel (being a videophile, PQ/HD-'snob', and semi-pro couch/mouse-potato). 'True'-HD had curb-appeal, as did multi-inputs via known (albeit outrageously-priced) controllers -- since I didn't want to be limited to HT-PC-input alone.
Then, discussions revealed a hobbyist/reseller in ShenZhen, China...a Mr. Zhao, or 'Carpow'. After corresponding (seeking a sensibly-priced wuxga-controller, and resource for market-access there), I grew enthused with one of his offered-panels, the now-notorious 10.6"/ltn106w2/1280*768 lappy-screen from Samsung. From long-experience with upconverted-HD and dvd's via HT-PC's, I knew 720P would deliver the PictureQuality I was after, and this 'rez-compromise' purchased an opportunity to better experiment with small-arc/low-heat lamping, and pre-con'd light-engines in a much-more efficient PJ-size with 'narrowed' optics...and unlike the wuxga's, controllers to test were plentiful (including 5 current-options from Carpow, with more possible), and relatively inexpensive.
Yoshuaspawn and Johnzo started some now-long topic's in the SmallPanel forum, with Johnzo 'stepping up' as our chief group-buy-impresario -- and many brave-souls jumped into the fray...including me. Group-buys are on-going, and Carpow/Mr. Zhao can be addressed directly at: carpow <at> 126 <dot> com.
So -- to date, I am testing one of these panels [half the cost of similar on EBay, thanks to "The Circus of Dr. Zhao"] with what would eventually prove to be the currently-most-popular and the least 'flash-lamed' of the available controller-boards...a Genesis GM5221, made by TopTech (for a 17" Acer-panel). Others will be tested as they are found/'flashed'&fixed...soon, the new DCDi/hdmi Genesis FLI-chipset board.
The post immediately following this Intro will be regularly-edited/updated by me to reflect not only progress, but new-findings/options/mods/related-links & theories (as most of my posts are 'edited repeatedly' -- such being the wont and occupational-dysfunction of an ex-teacher and proof-reader). So, do return to this page-1 and it's 2nd-post, if 'brevity' is sought, and you want info/spec's/results summarized in one-location and up-to-date [I can caution you already, the remainder of this Plog will otherwise ramble and drift off-topic with 'the best of them'<g>].
When we've developed such, and have pinned-it -- I'll also link to a FAQ for these panels here:
A 10.6" FAQ/Intro-thread: http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...id=222023&#

Herein the 'meat' of this Plog:

Most Plog's outline 'Parts Used'...so, too, this one -- with some elaboration re: type's considered, and 'why', and best-vendor/source.
No 'How-To' for general PJ-design [and such are elsewhere in LL, thankfully -- both pinned and in FAQ/Wiki-offerings]. But, I will attempt to explore and re-examine/question some 'basics'...since my aim is to test/verify a variety of 'best-in-class' assumptions and/or try-out related-to-mods components.

~PANEL:
The ltn106w2-L01 will be a focus-of-attention throughout the thread -- being the star of this show.
In brief, it offers good brightness/contrast (the 'numbers' for which are meaningless...since they are all admeasured with backlights and AG and other multi-layers hurtful to our niche-application). The small optical-footprint of 9.5"X5.75" with its 1280*768 resolution results from an impressive 0.180"-square pixel-pitch.
Subjectively -- viewing a 720P movie on it, even just doing-so with only it's anemic-backlight and mirrored-AG, gives one the feeling you could reach-in with your hand and 'interact'. In short...its a gorgeous/eye-pleasing display -- I think ideal for use in a HD-PJ, and 720P is my notion of 'Best HD Resolution' for display of upconverted std.-dvd's.
This easily-stripped and unique panel should be on anyone's 'short-list' for a PJ-build -- especially if 'size-matters' for any optical/heat-related/case-design considerations.
<The datasheet here: http://www.beyondinfinite.com/lcd/Library/...TN106W2-L01.pdf >
[Dimensional-drawings of panel and Genesis-controller -- courtesy of ozstang65:
http://users.bigpond.com/doyle.tlsg/106/BarePanelDims.jpg
http://users.bigpond.com/doyle.tlsg/106/ControllerDims.jpg]
Drawbacks: A refresh-rate of only 35ms may off-put some Gamers, and 256k-colors doesn't-compare to 16.7M -- however, HT-PC-use and Movie-play both have tested-well for me, and compare favorably with panels of much-higher Spec...

~CONTROLLERS:
So far, I've only hands-on with the Genesis/GM5221-board.
<The datasheet here: http://www.datasheetarchive.com/search.php...;ExactDS=Starts >
My initial-review here:
http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...mp;#entry208836
One of three (or possibly, four) known/inexpensive controllers [they range from 50.-80., the Genesis about 60.], it offers inputs of: TV/Composite/S-Video/VGA/Component and (last, but not least!) DVI. [I prefer dvi-to-PJ as a 'best-choice', anyway ... analog being just 'so 1980's', and more-than-one long-cable to PJ is unnecessary).]
Another contender was the RTD2523B-board (of both the first&second group-buys), offering TV/Composite/S-Video/VGA and DVI...but no Component-input. This chipset 'should' have easily allowed for SoG component>vga-input (but may not -- presumably because it is 'locked' in its flash/'firmware' -- and if-functional, the displayed-image in vga-Native would likely stretch to the full 768, rather than scale in blackbar). Like the Genesis [only 'more-so'], this board also suffers from varied 'deficiencies in its flashing/ROM', and we hope to encourage an update shortly. If that proves 'impossible', then Izzotek has same-model controller (and theirs may have been properly-flashed before having been offered to the public). It many be possible to 'dump' one of these proper-flash's for re-install on ours. In meantime, there are failures in the display in Native via vga/dvi...depending on 1st or 2nd batch-updates, as tested.
<The datasheet here: http://www.086ic.cn/uploads/20061203_104418_RTD2523B_v10.pdf >
We are extensively reviewing both of these boards lately in:
http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...5551&st=840
http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...6528&st=360
The wuxga/RTD board is another board available through Carpow [70., and capable for use with wuxga/15.4-panels], but is not yet reviewed, and features only VGA/Component -- no dvi/hdmi (and, for me, 'no digital, no-interest').
There is a new, as yet untested, Genesis board available, now. More on that later...

Once there are a couple of 'known fully-functional boards' for these 'wunder-panels', we can then compare controller-chipsets for 'what actually matters' betwixt the sub-60.-boards, and make comparisons to the PQ of the 70./wuxga/RTD2533 controller in vga and Component, also.
In brief, the current flash-problems for the GM5221 are limited to HD via Component-inputs only -- 720P being spectacular, but offset on panel 5/8" to the right, and a minor-amount vertically (easy for me to correct-for, but less-so for others with common-players/receivers). And 1080i, IMO, is 'unusable' -- grossly enlarged/stretched and off-centered. Other than that, all resolutions on all inputs seem 'picture perfect', centered, and without obvious overscan -- especially-nice in Native 1280*768 via dvi/vga. So, if one can avoid the need for HD-via-Component, they are 'ready for Primetime' with the GM5221.
The RTD fares less-well, with Component-input [via vga] 'locked-out', and (with one group-buy version or the updated-second) not yet giving good-results, even with displaying Native@60Hz via vga/dvi.

All controllers have eeprom/ROM 'flashing' to mate it to LDVS (one or two-channel, with given pixel-clocking) for code determining handling of signal/frequencies/porch-values/etc. -- these often being highly panel-specific. Writing/testing such code is not 'rocket-science', nor is it irreversable (one can 'dump' it, retool [assuming access to the proprietary-software], and re-install a 'healthy-flash' via J-Tag (on some boards) or a common eeprom-reader/burner [dumping/re-flashing NOT requiring special/proprietary-software].
Click to view attachment
The chipset must, dynamically, balance output/clocking/frequencies to obtain 'balance' of all-above, as well as perfectly-match Native/panel-parm's in-process -- or image pours-over into screen borders or we loose image-portions to an overscan [why overscan is a bad-thang]:
http://www.hkflix.com/xq/asp/infoID.27/qx/info.htm
To-date, and with all tested-boards, Component-inut is still 'at-issue' with it's values for-above frequencies. Component is locked-out as input for the RTD2523's so-far, and only works properly in 480P/i with the Genesis5221's or wuxga/RTD2533's. 720P via 5221&component is beautiful-to-behold...but offset to the right about 5/8", and off-centered vertically just-a-tad (its easy to correct these offsets using a dvd-player having X/Y-scaling/positional-control [as with my Momitsu-880DX], but popular/standard upconverting players which output only in component [and without the dvi/vga the 880DX also has, and which work-perfectly through the Genesis, btw] will just 'disappoint' most users). 1080i is thoroughly-botched, with gross-enlargement/over-scan/off-centered image [perhaps also 'correctable' by changing values/frequencies/porch-sttings in a 880DX, but I favor 720P over 1080i, anyhoo).
What's really needed for these panels is a controller featuring one of these-chipsets: http://www.gnss.com/products/FLI5961-FLI59...962-PBR-01B.pdf or a sub-250. Kontron board, with Faroudja/HDCP-enabled and ability to 'flip'/reverse -- for control of light-direction through panel.

~TRIPLETS:
Almost any commonly-used triplet may be utilized with this small-panel, of course. For instance, I've a massive 18" Beseler Series-III EFL[457mm FL], purchased when still in the throes of 15.4"-planning. The very-thought of that opaque-projector lens protruding from a small mini-Haas inspired the 'light-cannon'/cat-coffin nicknames...
Overkill for this panel. Almost all panels 15"-or-less can make use of LL's standard-triplet, or Carpow's similarly-priced lens, or most any others favored-here. Larger-panels are a concern in choices, due FoV relative to FL...but at 10.6-diagonal, I can't imagine any optics-combo which would result in 'lost-corners' here. Throw is a consideration, however (always is). Since I now want to design for a very-small case/PJ, the 18" would only be a front-runner if I had to have considerable distance between it and screen (and small-case would be 'front-heavy' due to a 5-600mm front-fresnel distancing). More-likely, I'll mod an 11" Buhl (by increasing spacer-length between both elements and the central dual-concave) and shorten the needed FL for front-frez to 300-330. I'll need to test for it's subsequent 'throw', and lengthening-possible -- but can use common 100mm replacement-lenses, if needed.
Better than common/inexpensive triplets? Dunno, but these OP-trip's just 'look so kewl'...<g> [All that glass...!]

~Fresnels:

~~Light-Engine:

~Lamp/Ballast:

~Optics-Config:

~STRIPPING/POLARS:
As detailed in pun15her's new Plog: http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...mp;#entry209818
these panels set new-standards for 'stripability'...'dry', yet! <g> They should also prove interesting for experiments in complete polar-replacement...intended to improve-contrast while bumping-up delivered-lumens by finally ridding ourselves of all the many 'compromises' suffered to diffusion/WV/tacs/light-spreading layers-on-layers intended for backlighting on desktops. A thread detailing those attempts is here: http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...6166&st=100
I'm gathering three-sets of polarizers for testing...both within and without the fresnel/focus-field...

~CASE DESIGN:

~INPUT/RELATED-EQUIPMENT:
I've a Momitsu DVD-V880-DX, because it is the _only_ upconverting-player with full X/Y-scaling, dvi/vga/component-outputs up-to 1080i, variable-zoom in/out, full 'dial-in' frequency/porch/pre/post-adjustable (similar to Powerstrip-for-PC) unit I could find: http://www.hkflix.com/hardware/xq/asp/pid.59/qx/details.htm
The replacement-model out now, the 888N, has some improvements -- but lacks the DX's hidden-menu/'dial-in' features.

~RELATED/10.6"-PLOGS:
elken2004/Dazzzla/Ozstang65 -- http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...mp;#entry210100
pun15her -- http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...mp;#entry210125
b0rna -- http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...mp;#entry210159
ziggy_man -- http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17812
SupraGuy -- http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18526
-=Shiver=- -- http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...mp;#entry210686
cpsubrian -- http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...=15772&st=0
iPO's -- http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...mp;#entry213419
shadowhawk2020 -- http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...mp;#entry216829
PEGASUS -- http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...c=19458&hl=
conker -- http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...c=19476&hl=
Sinner7 -- http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...st&p=220212
kariya762 -- http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...c=19334&hl=
EpitaphILIP -- http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...c=19846&hl=
geckostudios -- http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...mp;#entry223351
SinAngel -- http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...mp;#entry225020
Delphins -- http://diy.delfins.id.lv/forums/index.php?...p;st=0#entry497
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"I have a great vision that one day this page will actually be finished and complete. Please share in this delusion."
<bump>

Good luck with your searching!! hope you don't go through the troubles I'm having with my stuff!! It will always be worth it though. Long Live DIY!!!!!

Time to test-theories...
I settled on a test-bed large-enough to try various 16"X16" fresnels with a 18"-Beseler (without having to cut-down the frez just-yet for the 'dainty' panel-size).
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7/16th OSB was at-hand, rigid-enough, and allowed for use of thumbtacks for all the temporary-mounting involved in testing frez-combos. This setup is over-sized and plenty-ugly -- but functional and easy to adjust/shift-about, and align elements-within. Only the upright holding the panel is 'fixed' into underlying 2X4's. It, and the two up-rights holding the frez, were aligned for their square-holes and cut-together (1/8"-smaller than outside panel-dimensions). These movable up-rights for frez, and the forward-one holding the triplet, are secured to 2X4-basing that can, in-turn, be screwed to 'deck' -- as-convenient and as positioning proves-out.
Since all these up-right 'openings' are well-aligned, it makes it easy to apply different face-mounted fresnels in an adjustable/centered fashion (a flashlight-beneath [as a light-box] allows for simple in-hole rough-centering by just measuring-to-edges from the centered 'glare-point'). Fine adjustments are also-easy -- by just sliding a frez along thumbtack-pairs.

Click to view attachment
"Tacky", no? <g>

Click to view attachment
Simple-sides with angle-hardware 'pinching' at base, and a slide-down top secured with 2X4-'stays' make full enclosure possible -- once choices are more "known-unknowns"...
The most 'problematic' thing, at this stage, is polarizer-placement (about one-half of my panel is clean-to-glass, front&rear, to compare the factory-polars (with 'gummy under-tac') to SHC/90*-polars from polarizer.com and the inexpensive/45*-polars from Carpow.

Click to view attachment
Carpow's light-box (with reflector and fat-boy pre-con) are in-service temporarily.
Results, to date, indicate that a larger pre-con is desirable (4.5X6.5's on-way from Surplusshed.com).
Tests without-pre-con established that 220mm fresnels in .2&.5-pitch are too-long for full-adjustment re: 'dark corners', as was a 200/.5 from Carpow (a 180mm might work-well without a pre-con?).
The use of a pre-con, however (even the 'fat-boy' provided with this light-box, which is too-small) dramatically increased the overall-brightness of projection.
Tests with 220mm fresnels of .2&.5 pitch were still 'corner-dark' but much-improved compared to any-result without a pre-con.

The best results, of all combos tried so-far, were with the use of Caprow's 320mm/.5 fresnel and my available/smallish pre-con's. This, with my 550mm/.2 front-frez gave very-bright and well-lit projections (on an admittedly-poor, semi-flat, Almond-painted, wall -- about 10' distant).

[I haven't decided between a Wilsonart Designer-white screen, or one of the pull-downs being tested in other forum-threads]
As for factory-polars vs. replacement, I would now say that Carpow's-polars show a VERY slight-improvement over factory-only, and that SHC's get third-place (due to their being over-dark -- at least when tested with a 150w-ceramic). I will try to take some pics showing those side-by-sides, before finishing the FullMonty on my panel...
More testing is needed for my decision between split/unsplit setups...and I really need some practice in using a digicam to take good screenshots (ones so far are pathetic, and just don't convey the 'experience'...).

...

I can't really tell from the pictures, but is the panel installed in the middle frame ?? i been having a real fun time trying to protect the FFC's and getting it into the frame lol. Good progress so far, what material is that .... particle board?? Is is significantly lighter than MDF .. what made you go with that? thanx

"Tests without-pre-con established that 220mm fresnels in .2&.5-pitch are too-long for full-adjustment re: 'dark corners', as was a 200/.5 from Carpow (a 180mm might work-well without a pre-con?)."


A 220mm rear fresnel can not give "dark corners" when used with out a per-condenser. If you have dark corners it might be the light house shading the lamp because of the size of the hole cut in it. It will really help you if you make the condenser mount adjustble.

I do like the idea of painting the screen to correct for your lamps gain.

The CDM 150 has great red but is a litte week in the blue range therefor the adding of just a touch of dark blue pigment to a white paint should give a higher color temp screen and a better color ballance without bringing down the red level on the LCD.

The screen is just a large color filter anyhow.

Good-tips on screen (but I'm leaning towards trying the laminate/DesignerWhite as-is, at least until out of this test-bed phase).
Without pre-con, I mounted the reflector where pre-con normally sits...pointing out. I had, all through the range for FL, good light-coverage of the 200/220 frez tried...but the resultant-images (with a split-setup and the only 550/.2 front-frez available) had noticeably 'darker-corners' (not dark, really...but there was a concentration of brightness at image-center -- as if lamp was too-close to sled-opening). [Again, this 'effect' sans pre-con might not be noticeable if using a 180mm?]
With all adjustments while using Carpow's little 'fat-boy' and mounted in that non-adjustable light-box -- I noticed the same/good 'spotlight-coverage&overlap' of the visible-fresnel when viewed from behind, but there was less unevenness of/in the image itself, more 'brightness' in-general, and (with the 320) almost no dimness-at-corners [although I'm confident a good-meter would show otherwise].
I do expect better results with the 4.5X6.5 and in a fully-adjustable mounting...but I've seen enough, I think, to sell myself on the notion that 'pre-cons are a desirable-mod' for at-least this-size panel...(particularly with a 150w-ceramic...which, frankly, 'underwhelms' with ambient-lighting...).

Shiver...As noted, I elected to use-up some handy/scrap 7/16-th's-OSB...with square-holes aligned and slightly-smaller than the panel (which is held against triplet-side of center/'fixed up-right...also with thumb-tacks and FCC's hanging-down -- and LVDS-cable laying in a bottom-groove under F-frez's 2X4). I can slip-on sides/top easily, and it works very-well for multiple setups (and all hits the firepit when I know best-candidates and measurements).

I feel a little 'stuck' with the 550 Front-Fresnel...since the Beseler requires too-much length as-is, I don't want to consider a longer-FL. I'll continue testing with remaining fresnels and alignments/positioning using unsplit-setup...but I can tell I'm going to end-up with either an LL std-triplet or a Carpow-special by the time I actually design my mini-Haas.

Hmm, interesting man. What are you using as a focus mech ?!?!

Same as for the-frez...the whole up-right (triplet-within) moves forwards/backwards on-deck, and can be secured with screws if/when I pop-on the sides/top...
Again, I went with this large/crude test-bed so as not to cut the ten-or-so fresnels I'm testing (I intend to re-sell 'runners-up'), and not to have 'cramped-quarters' before deciding on split/unsplit, pre-con or no, and panel/lamp/fresnel-spacing&positioning. It's very-fast/easy to change or align any frez within this mess, or the other-elements.
[For my finished-PJ, there won't be much-need for focusing...it will drop-down to a set-position from a log-truss in a cathedral-ceiling, and project to a screen that rests-against a rustic floor-to-ceiling 'entertainment-center' that is mostly bookshelves and will also-house a 50"-Plasma (with matched lower-cabinets housing other/related-gear/dvd's/jukebox/etc.).]
[edit: Actually re-thinking the whole project-intent, at this-point. Instead of a small/'cutesy'/crafted case suspended openly from truss, I'm thinking larger-case, long-throw, concealed and larger-panel PJ projecting across-room to a pull-down larger-screen (which would block ambient-lighting) might be more like what I 'need'...<g> My choice of Beseler-triplet, 150w-lamping, and notions for a FullMonty/'controller-perfection'/small-case/narrow-optic-path are working-against-interests...<g> May need to 'radically re-configure' for my eventual DIY-goals...]

Sound s good keep going

Dunno...I may use a different 10.6" panel in my Zee (with backlight/frame), but I'm leaning towards a wuxga/15.4" LPhilips-panel and a Kontron-controller, paired with a much-higher wattage light-engine (designs for which I'm experimenting with--sans panel, for now).
[More on that, later...and may be toying with rear-projection?]

say it aint so
I hope you give the 10.6er a go with a higher light engine, and all layers intact a try.
What your thinking about absolutly makes sense though, if you have the space to do it. May as well go all-out.

'All layers' are cleaned from mine...and it is headed to Ohio to be paired with a 400w-Ushio in a unslpit/cat-coffin with pre-con, std.-triplet, and a pair of 320mm Carpow-frez and his-polars [kariya's-build, which I'm helping him with re: case/concept]. So -- the general 'data' for PJ's with these-panels will be supplemented...
I want to continue experimenting with large&small panels...but I want to be less-chained to any 'room darkening' (that 'issue' with 16mm is what so-enthused me with the advent of video-tech, initially). I think I want an image capable of daylight/ambient-light viewing...or I'll end up defaulting to a plasma (as I already have). That may involve rear-projection (and, if going that-or-similar routes, then 'size' is no-object in my environment, making the full-wuxga better for lumens and for 'puter-display).
[I know whatever I do, it will involve Carpow...!<g>]

So you are going to use two 320 FL fresnels with a precon.
You suggested this when i asked in my plog about a precon, lol i still dont understand why it would yield better results but i trust you =)

hey look its me up there^

Yep...you have 'boarded-the-boat'...<g>
[Check Punisher's Plog, also, and see some info re: your Ushio-400w/320mm/pre-con intents]

And here is why your PJ isn't shipped-yet:
Click to view attachment
All that white-garbage accumulated on my ZR2 just while I was finishing your case today at my lake-home/shop...several-hours standing-around in my 20-degree/unheated 'garage' (never intended for a three-car garage, it was always a two-story woodshop)!
There are 2-2-1/2' drifts everywhere, and one has to plow through them to even negotiate-drives...and it's almost Easter!<g>
Couldn't even get up the driveway until 5-ish -- when a bud with a winch arrived (and PO closed at 4:30...).
Maybe just as-well...there are still things I can address...like the Input-arrangement...
At least got some pics as-requested...

More:
Click to view attachment
And that was 2-hours after-shoveling...so the ex- could get-in.

bbb

Hey HapHazard, Im really curious to see some of your half&half factory VS replacment polars. Will you share some of these?

Here is my Lab...searching for those side-by-side polar-pics...
Click to view attachment
Nope...none there...!<g>
I really couldn't take a pic that was illustrative of the 'experience'. So my verbal-review tells what actually needs-telling (at least insofar as differences seen with a 150w-lamp). The polars from Carpow were slightly-darker than factory, but slightly better in contrast, detail, and black-levels. I suppose the SHC were, also (and in-spades), but were so-dark as to eliminate them from the-running. The Prize goes to Carpow's (although i wish they weren't adhesive-backed...as I'm telling Kariya in here, the adhesive-backing is both a dust-magnet (and I gots lot's'o'dust!), and left bubbles/'smears' when applied...I can't test, now (no bulb), but I imagine he'll need replacement-polars (please order for him if/when you get anything else from Carpow-directly...?).
[Hey, you wanted pics of log-home...follow along here...]

What will-be my new livingroom (I am duplexing the place...since it's over-large [3,500sf] and I pretty-much gave my ex- the front-half since our son-died [we were both pretty messed-up]). I currently care for mom at my other-house nearby (she can no-longer live independently in a third-house locally...that I built for her), but we(?) are moving when I can finish the old-additions and duplexing...
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This is where I hunkered (and fled-sawdust) rather than assemble/finish the case in the shop...
Through those dbl.-doors is a deck (now converted to a spare-bedroom).

Bathroom is logged-in (to be lofts-above), and trusses mostly-done...
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From shop-door...

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There's where I played with case...and shop-beyond...[Need to get that maple pocket-door mounted someday...<g>]
LOL...just noticed my Builder's License...proudly displayed on-wall...<g>

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View from-case...doors on left to that bedroom, and new-door on right will be to new-deck (lake-beyond).

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View-back from inside that bedroom...that's a cut heading off-lake and into cranberry-marsh (where my bud's the Beavers and GreatBlueHerons stay).
I built the two-story garage/shop in sort of a 1/3-pie shape to follow bank of cut...

Front-view of lake (and hungry-birds!).
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At least the lake has melted...can't believe this 'winter's last-gasp' (although it once snowed-here during July4th fireworks!).

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The case...in progress...

Look at the mess you made in my shop, kariya!
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[Wonder why I have a 'dust-issue'?]

Your completed case-ends...
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Your case-sides...countersunk and drilled...
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Curved shop-walls/windows...
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[And that maple-door waiting-patiently!]

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Out the shop-window [so nice to see water instead of ice!]

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Your sled and controller...(you'll notice the cable barely-reaches).
The two top-portions/members of sled are off-here...the narrow-slot is above panel/frez, and the larger-slot will hold filter-material (under the corresponding slot in case-top).
I tried cutting 'permanent-furnace-filter' for you, but it ain't permanent when-cut (you'll need to locate some sort of foam-filter, about 1-1/2x1-1/2x11").

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A better-view of panel-arrangement

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So you see my 'conundrum' with Input-slot.
There is little-room to work-with here...but if you wish, I'll cut a slot similar to the one in case-top, and just big-enough for connectors to clear (then you could fashion a metal or plastic precisely-cut openings for all, and attach inside-case?). The alternative is to enlarge a channel/groove under sled (which needs to be there to bring power to 12vPS in front for controller/panel) so you can just attach sort extender-pigtails to inputs-wanted, and lead them out back of case (where main-power exits, anyway)?

ya the first method discussed (just cutting out a slit will do fine).

You got-it...(hope to get shipped before 1:00 pick-up...regular PO is prolly closed for 1/2-day due GoodFriday (or BombIranDay, or some-such...<g>).

Wow... Hap after looking at the picture of your weather... Im in florida and never seen snow.

Whats up with some screen shots, I want to see how the 150w lamp performs. I have the same lamp here and never fired it up yet.

When I was at Ft. Knox's NCO-academy in '67, there was a Hawaiian 'cruit who had never seen snow, and just couldn't-wait. When it finally arrived, he was running around like a kid...catching snowflakes with open-mouth, etc. Just thrilled, this guy...
Then after a week of it piling-up he was, like: "When does this crap go-away?"...<g>
My testing with 150w is done, and it's sold. My conclusion was that it was bright and contrasty, and all-that...and-cool! But, I want more lumens...
I'm used to a plasma, and no lighting-control.
Also, I still have no screen (trouble deciding on one). Panel gone, also (or will-be tomorrow).
15.4 from Carpow and Kontron-controller next-up, methinks...maybe not, sure like the 10.6-size. Maybe I'll fashion a teensy/short-throw portable, in a unique-case?

What a great place. Your a lucky man.

Now repeat after me, Globle warming,Globing warming, Globle warming.

We had the coldest winter in 60 years.

Heh,
the warmest since they kept records here in the NE.
The Farmers Almanac was waaaaaaay off this year.
http://www.almanac.com/

Thanks, AV...
I live exactly-upon the so-called 'lake-effect' border. In a narrow-ribbon, maybe 25-miles wide, we get dumped-on regularly...often I drive a little E or W and there's sun&dirt, and drive-back to a foot or more of snow -- that looms ahead almost like approaching a curtain and entering 'winter'.<g>
Great-place 8 months a year, though...and fun to build something 'rustic'.

[I figure there is, on average, a 'global-warming' -- but right-here will be the new-Florida when the rest of the lower-48 resembles the Gobi...<g>]

forget the projector..lets see more pictures of that big ol log cabin in the snow!

...don't get sucked in by Al Gore and all those global warming doom-sayers, global temperatures have gone up 0.8 degrees in the last 100 years... and thats official. If you want to talk about excessive CO2 in the atmosphere...well thats something else. And no, the CO2 has not so far given us the temperature increase those atmosphere modellers have predicted, its all based on assumptions...err, back on topic...

agreed already stated this in a inconvenient truth topic. anyways were you able to ship the stuff today (friday) because i got my reflector and triplet today yay