Here we go again. I'm back and ready to tackle a new projector project. This time I'm going for the lightest PJ with PIP. I won't be using any wood (I really like Gatorfoam and have a great supplier here), no screws, bolts, or nails of any kind. If I estimate right it should weigh 3-4lbs after i'm finished. My last PJ from Gatorfoam only weighed 12lbs.

heres the list of mats: ( Yes i still play WoW )

Samsung LCD LTN1565 (I could use a few pointers in stripping this thing, that High Volt Warning is making me nervous) $100
1 Sheet 4x8 Black 3/16in Gatorfoam $45
Bridge, bridge connector, 100 ohm Resistor, fuse holder + 10amp fuses $10
Fire Barrier 3M, Silcon sealant $18
Wire, Sheet metal *Free* (leftover from last PJ)
Digital MH Balast $125
Bulb and Socket $20
Tempered Glass $13
Vga to S-vid adapter $6
15' S-vid Cable $10
Lense Kit $65
Total = $412.00

Having a light weight projector with PIP = Priceless

Now it's time for the ultimate nerds statement of the week. "Yes! Now I can finally play WoW while watching the latest episode of Battle Star Galactica."

Well that's it for now I'll post pics when I get everything in the mail. If any of you have any suggestions about stripping the lcd, so I don't kill myself, feel free.

the high voltage is for the backlight, you only have to worry about it when its fired up. if its a separate board you wont even need it. when you strip the panel give yourself plenty of time and room. go slow, dont pry anything. get a very tiny screw driver for the tiny screws that hold the lcd together. once its stripped put it away somewhere safe til you need it. pip is cool to have, I did that with my first pj, nice to have a pip with the image size bigger than most TV's. you sure it will be around 3 LBS, I have to figure the optics, ballast, bulb, monitor and parts have to weigh that much at least.

i am assuming the ballest is going to be remotely placed to make this wieght. if so check this out for overheat shutdown. it comes with a three foot extension on the temp sensor. and good luck.

Hey there, Im using the Samsung LTN1565 in my projector for a year... actually its going into my third projector soon.

First off, its a great LCD to use for this application, its got every input you need (except HDMI) so you dont need to use a converter for TV, or Component in.

Few things you have to take into account when building is its large control board, and the fact that most of the connections are on the control board. You either need to be able to have the board stick out so you can plug in your wires, or you will have to build extensions for every connection, except the ones on already long wires.

Oh and you will need a very small drill bit to drill out the screws that hold the LCD control board (attached to LCD) off, they are impossible to remove without drilling them out.

BE CAREFUL not to go to far and ruin a FFC, its pretty easy to do though.

Oh and as soon as you get the entire LCD apart (piece of glass, with control board) put some electrical take across both sides of every FFC, to protect them they are very fragile.

Ive had a FFC come loose on my LCD so now pressure has to be applied on that part of the FFC or i get a band of nothing up the LCD. So be careful when moving or flexing it. Ive had it in 2 projectors and its gone through alot of abuse, so im very glad with the way its held up considering its so fragile.

Search for my old PLOG and a PLOG by moose, theres some good pics of LTN1565 Builds.. I'll also be putting up a new PLOG sometime soon to cover my last punisher style projector and my new one.

oh and the Anti Glare strips off this panel like butter!, 2H water soak for each side removed the rear tac and AG with no glue residue.

Hey thanks for all the tips everyone, got the LCD stripped yesterday. I'm in the process of removing the Anti-Glare film right now which I didn't do in my last PJ. This lcd stripped like a dream. I don't know what you meant about drilling didn't have to do any. the ballast is going to be internal by-the-by if it'll fit that is still in transit. At least the hard parts out of the way. Any tips on fixing key stoning would be good i have an idea for it, but I don't want to mess up my fresnels like I did last time.

Mr. Know-it-all

no drilling? wow, both myself and moose had to drill out those 2 damn tiny screws, i just couldnt get then to turn with my jewelers screwdriver, to damn small.. Glad to hear it went well though.. and the AG strip should be a breeze..

Oh and i noticed you mentioned you got a VGA to S-Video adapter? what is that for?

I should've been a surgeon I know, but I hate College. This model has to be in pc mode for the PIP to work. The PC is always on the big portion and it won't do it in reverse say dvd on big part pc on little. I needed it to be on the small section of the screen so I could see what I was doing. So i use a VGA box for my DVD player, Playstaion 2, etc and the VGA to S-Video adapter for my pc. Should give the resolution I want 1024 x 768. One more thing to those that have done AG removal on this lcd what was the best method, I see ALOT of different variations. i was just gonna soak mine with distilled H2O with some paper towels for a few hours, but i don't want to ruin this screen. Let me know.

Mr. Know-it-all

"I do not regret the things I've done only the things I did not do"

This is going to be great when completed. I think my projector will get the record for heaviest projector.

yAK

not alot of people have used this panel, besides myself and moose i cant think of anyone else ive seen.

But as for the AG removal, heres what i did.

Laid a towel on a table and placed the LCD AG up on the towel, then i soaked a bunch of paper towel in regular tap water then rung them out and carefully laid them on the panel. i had about 3 paper towel layers on the LCD. I cut then so they wouldnt hang over the edges and i overlapped any seams.

I also made sure there were very little air bubbles between layers, you wanna make sure wet towel is touching every part of the AG.

Then i covered the whole thing in some plastic wrap. I was gonna let it sit for hours but i got impatient and tried to lift a corner after 2 hours and it came up very easily, so i tried the whole thing and it came up in 1 peice with very little effort.

I was so please at how easy it was i decided to do the other side to remove the TAC layer, but you dont have to.. i dont know if removing the TAC makes any difference as its just a clear plastic film.

Im sure you will have no problems with the water soak method, and you dont need distilled water.

Hey I got the AG film off, came off like butter. Thanks for the tip I let it soak for 4 hrs and just peeled it off. Waiting on parts.

Mr. Know-It-All

My bulb came today, it's a beauty. Self reflecting too. The Philips MH400/rsp model 31973-1 120,000 Lumens!! and runs at 3900 deg and has a 15,000 hr lifespan. Found a great site on lumens explaination got curious what it really meant. http://www.theledlight.com/lumens.html check out the pics of what I've done so far. UH... can't seem to get the pics to load to much KB but when i compress them they look like hud on paper, any suggestions?

Pics?

How much weight do you save by striping the antiglare?

You could trim a few OZ by drilling the ballast housing with lots of holes like a brake disk.

I think my PJ comes in at 80lb or so and I tried to make it light.

I can't find any thing on that lamp is the # right?

I like to see some pictures if you can.

Okay I know I've been slacking this week, but I have good news; I quit WoW and my hands only shake a little every ten mins or so. I got my Ballast and i don't think I want to drill into it considering i had to shell out over a Big Ben for it. I just removed the AG for a better quality and I'm still working on the pics. Also, how close can I get the bulb to my tempered heat shield? If I did the math right with a 40 deg angle reflector built in I need it 5.5ins from the fresnal to illuminate the entire panel. I'm making slip in trays from gatorfoam for the lcd and collector fresnal and thy will be adjustable so the closer the heat shield is to the bulb the more space for play I have. Heres a link to my pics http://www.freewebs.com/chroniclesofsean/t...bsprojector.htm

i cant believe i actually clicked on that link... lol.

your ip in that link should be your external ip address not your internal address.

i'm looking forward though to seeing those pics, and btw if you remember me, i ended up using wood since i could not source a good price for that gatorfoam in new york city.

I'm not sure what you mean by external ip. Is the link working? I tried setting it up with my external ip and I get an error code, so *shrug* let me know if the link works or not.

192.168.* is an internal IP so we can't access your pics unless you change it to your internet IP (www.whatismyip.com)

okay gave up on ftp and created a free website link above. Quick question though i was going to use a manual focusing mechanism, but I ran across some lenses with built-in focusing and zoom. This is one of the models JVC DiLA LC40076-001E and is going for relatively cheap on Ebay. Has anyone ever used one of these in a PJ, would save me a big headache when it comes to focusing and with an electric motor on I wouldn't have to get up to do it. Thanks

just for the record..I wouldn't suggest ever drilling holes out of the stuff wrapped around your coils in the ballast..I'm pretty sure that's a heatsink material and putting airspace all in it could have not so pleasant results

Had some computer issues that slowed me down some. My video card exploded literaly all the capacitors popped I'm gonna work on stencils tonight because everything needs to be perfectly aligned. will keep ya'll posted.

I was just kidding.

The shell of the ballast is just a heat sink. I have taken a few apart.

That's odd. Do you know what made it explode? Is your computer plugged into a surge protector?

I blew out the transformer on my kid's HP computer once, because after the GFCI outlet popped, I reset it without removing the power cord from the outlet. Opps! There was a surge and then another pop from the computer, and then I pronounced it dead. Luckly, that transformer was cheap, for $10.

Cheers!

Fulcrum

I was ripping some vids and guess I just over worked it. It's okay though ordered a new vid card and decided to upgrade my 'puter got a midtower with blue led fans and heat sensors to boot. My computers pimped out now. Anyway slow progress on the PJ just started a new job and I have to get A+ certified in a month been focusing on that for now. worked on the stencils and it's gonna be awesome.
I was kicking the idea around of putting infrared switches in this, so I can be extra lazy and turn off the light and fan with my Chameleon remote any sources or ideas are welcome. I found one I like E-Z Switch anyone know if these are any good?

okay finished preliminary sketch and measurements this is gonna be small hope I don't have any heat issues. Measures 11 1/2" H x 28" L x 14" W. Hope ya like it. http://www.freewebs.com/chroniclesofsean/t...bsprojector.htm

Okay I have been working on this and I ran into a few roadblocks along the way. I added hardwood struts to the box just for reinforcements sake. I also added magnetic clasps for the top front and rear covers for easier access to work on the innards. Made my frames for the LCD and Fresnel, which I used a dremel to cut out. Also, added inputs to the box and they look excellent. I found a remote switch, which i had to order from Hong Kong, but now I can turn the unit on and off remotely with options to keep the fan running or not. I added a second fan which added an extra lbs, but with a variable control will give me extremely quiet operation. Which I want more than a light projector. Here the pics:

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How is that reflector light going to focus on the triplet?

ya i dont think that light is going to work for you..

I do still have to test it but the reflector only has a 40 degree angle. Add to that the sheer lumen of the bulb 150,000 I think I won't have a prob. I'll let you know how the testing goes. Still haven't mounted my lense. I'm using a magnet idea I had; I think it'll work great. Any thoughts feel free.

what kind of bulb it that?

i have doubts that its 150000 lumens.. 1000w MH bulbs dont even put out that much lumens

and how are you going to collimate the light so it passes through the LCD and on to the triplet?

I see a new lcd/fresnels/box/house in your near future

I appreciate all the concern I'm getting here, however I am taking precautions. As to the lumens I'm going off the manufacturer specs and I did start it up in a test run. Lets just say I couldn't look at the room let alone the bulb, it's BRIGHT! I hope it's bright enough to allow me to keep the lights on while watching. That's the dream. Whats funny is that this bulb actually runs cooler than my previous one.

Also, Gatorfoam doesn't warp and is highly heat resistant. The stuff was design for outdoor signs in the sun, wind and rain. I love this stuff! I had some exposed in my old box and all it did was turn a little discolored; I've been pondering not putting a heat sheild in this one to keep the weight down. However, that could lead to a new box/home. I got the magnets for the focus mech, looks promising.

How did you take the temp measurement?

Off the Manufacturers website was checking if it would give me the pure white light we need for our PJs. I don't remember the specific numbers, but I remember it was lower than my other bulb. I just finished the focus mech I will post pics soon. this thing is turning in a blue beast cause the glue I'm using is bright blue. it's all good i'm thinkin of priming it and giving it a finish of some kind. Now sould I do glossy shine or rugged dull look?

one more thing I'm looking into making DIY RGB cord cause I need a 6 inch length and they only can be bought 3'+ length any ideas, cause I'm totally lost on this one?

I'd do a quick test with your bulb before you progress any further.. i have a feeling its not going to work the way you think.. you should do some reading on bulbs and lenses..

Is that bulb even a Metal Halide bulb?

Sorry to sound like an ass.. im just trying to help ya out..

Im on my third projector cause i wasnt happy with the first two.

Okay i have tested it works great!! It is an MH bulb. Almost done witht the focus mech kinda hit a snag when i mismeasure a part of it.

Using a reflector lamp can work but the arc image will be vary large. Can you take a picture of the light going into the triplet with a peice of paper over it?

Your rear fresnel is a 220mm? And the mouth of the lamp is at what distance?

Can you take a far shot so we can see the whole setup running?

Thanks

here is a link to the pdf spec sheet of that bulb - its on page 10
http://www.eere.energy.gov/buildings/appli...ilips_2003a.pdf

I dont think he has a rear fresnel.. i think its a heatsheild but i could be wrong.

After looking at the specs it may work, but its color temp seems low, i guess we'll have to see when the projectors finished..

Good luck Mr. Know it all

I got everything together and fired her up, about 5mins into the runtime I got a big black spot that got biggee...and bigger.. and bigger. I shut it down immediately and let it cool off. Looks like the bulb works, however it reflects a heat spot perfectly onto my lcd. I switch back to my other nonreflected bulb and it works great, yet that spot will no longer do black on my LCD Which bugs the hades out of me. Oh well I'm more excited when Sanyo will come out with their HD 7.1 in that would make a really small, yet high quality projector. Pics will be posted soon. By the way I weighed this badboy, 21.2lbs, WTF guess I used too much glue or something. I did do a lot of mods on this thing. Live long, eat cheetos.

The LCD panel and boards probably add a fair bit of weight to the thing.