In a word, No. That panel isn't even widescreen and the resolution is only 1280x1024. 1080p is 1920x1080. You could display 720p on it but it will have big black bars on the top and bottom of the image. An upscaler wont help, that is for upscaling an image that is lower resolution to a higher resolution. It doesn't affect what resolutions the lcd can display.

It looks like quite a few others have been hoping for the 1:1 as well as myself. If you get 1:1 1080p for your panels, ill definately be looking to get one in the next few months... hell yeah!

Hey Johnzo,

Please count me in for the group buy for this controller when it happens

I am looking to build a portable monitor for my own use. Could you guys reccomend a controller that is inexpensive and could do 1920x1200?

Will you be offering these through your website after the GB? I don't have the funds to get in on it now, but this summer it will be a real possibility. Now that I've made all my mistakes and worked out the problems with my first build from last summer, I really want to build a proper 1080p projector!

I do believe I want in on this, can i get a display from johnzo aswell?

Hey johnzo,

I know with the holidays and such everything has been busy for most of us, but just curious if that controller sample came in as you originally thought it would at the end of last month.

Thanks.....we all are greatly looking forward to the group buy starting soon

Anyone selling their old controller to fund the upgrade? I need one for a 15.4

http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=24062

I bought a dvi repeater that is hdcp compliant. The device is european so it has a european plug. The box it comes with says 220v also, it says 5v/1amp on the actual device. I tried putting a 12v power supply into it and it had the light but it smelt like smoke was coming out and there was no signal. I also bought this travel adapter and used the ac it came with. Light was on no smoke smell was coming out and still no signal. Don't I need a step-up transformer to transform the house voltage from 120v into 220v? The person over the phone and the person at the store said different things. Have I damaged this device by putting the 12v power supply and letting it smell like smoke? It was only tested for a few minutes.

Wrong thread. This is the 15.4" thread.
Please keep it On Topic

Well, if I can get this device to work, that means hdcp compliance for winmate g2a boards. That means 1080p is possible natively with no overscan through dvi not vga so it looks better and since u can get high def players on pc, then u can tweak the colors even more using powerdvd. So it sorta has to do somewhat with the topic. Also, I wanted a quick response and I knew I would get one on this thread.

Most likely you fried it. A/C and D/C current are 2 different beasts. Maybe you just fried a diode or resistor but it would mean taking it apart and having a knowledge of electronics to fix it. And I'm guessing since you put a 12v Dc plug to a 220v electronic item your knowledge of electronics might not be up to the task.

Is it a moone repeater from the AVS forums or an Ebay item?

It's the avrepeat-10 one from hqproducts.Off eBay.

Now just because a Dvi repeater is HDCp Compliant doesn't mean it will STRIP the HDCP encryption and that's what we need it to do so that a HD signal can be passed on to the controller.

HDCP Compliant just means that it will send the signal WITH Hdcp encryption down the line to your HDCP Compatible product.
A Stripper and a Repeater are two different things.

Did yours say that it strips the HDCP ?

"This repeater actively regenerates the signal to ensure clear and sharp images as far as 35 metres at 1280x1024 or 25metres at 1600x1200 resolution."

I did buy this knowing it might not work, but that it was worth trying.
Advertising it as a HDCP remover/stripper isn't really a smart thing to do.
So the device such as a PC sends a signal out. The PC detects the dvi repeater and says it's hdcp compliant. So it sends out the signal to the dvi repeater. The dvi repeater copies that signal and actively regenerates it to the actual lcd. I'm guessing that's how it works. Don't buy it if I can't get it to work as it should.

Yea that's what they all say.

If it is a stripper it will say something like
"Dvi/Hdcp in and DVI out."

That's how they advertise it

Some power supplies can work on 120 or 220. They'll indicate this as input voltage 110-220VAC (volt AC)

Underpowering a device with 120v instead of 220v ( for a SHORT time ) ---> no problem
12v into a 5v device ---> death
"Smelling smoke" means components have burned up ---> death

Try the board with the proper (or at least closer) power supply. I give you 0.001% chance of success, but it's worth a shot.

Where short is defined as milliseconds...it doesn't even take a microsecond for some chips to fry (depending on their protection on the power inputs). If smoked was smelled, I concur, likelihood of a useful device is _very_ small.

By the looks of it there's a french shop selling a samsung panel with an HDCP controller (not sure if it does 1:1 but it claims it can handle all the HD reses) for €478.40, which is about £50 more than johnzo's prices for a panel and this controler (assuming it's $275 or under). Now, factoring in customs and shipping charges, I'm thinking I might be better off with the french unless johnzo can give us this controller in one of his swanky kits, in which case I'll be getting something cheaper and that I know will work better (sure it's got no scart cable, but who wants a scart cable?). Either way, waiting on some news from johnzo

Is there a cheap controller that could drive the newer panel from Dell 1920x1200 ? I don't care about 1:1, HDCP or HDMI. DVI nice, but not required. Thanks.

Count me in for a group buy if johnzo gets a 1:1 in.

Johnzo, since you are reading this, any news on the 1:1?

Can anyone tell me if i should be worried about 1080p at only 60hz? Will i see flickering? Johnzo's controller only does 60hz yes? That would be the only reason stopping me from buying but i have a feeling i wont be able to find 70-75hz anywhere else...

Most of the wuxga panels only have 25ms response time... that actually comes out to 40Hz

I think the Toshiba panel is a 16ms panel which is 62.5Hz.

So unless you find a panel that's 12ms you will not be able to output 75Hz. Subsequently, you need 10ms for 100Hz and 8ms for 120Hz

Note: if you want to output more than 1080p@60Hz you need a Dual-link Video Card, Dual-link DVI Cable, and capable controller (or HDMI rev. 1.3 i think).

I see! I didnt realise the ms value was related to refresh rate like that. Do people notice flickering at 40hz?? This toshiba panel is looking more and more inviting. I have read that toshibas have better colour and contrast ratio. If its 16ms as well, this might push me to go with it and forget about AG removal (as i have read that they are extremely delicate). I probably dont have to worry about AG removal anyway as im going to be using a 1000w MH.

Cheers.
Ben.

erm... LCD panels don't flicker, they may ghost somewhat, but never actually flicker

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flicker_fusion_threshold

Correct LCD's do not flicker like CRT's.

CRT's have to turn off before refreshing each time so yes at 60Hz this is very noticeable and may cause headaches.

In LCD's we only concern ourselves with the refresh rate b/c it does not have to turn off and on many times per second. (note: lcd backlights may flicker -- but they are usually at a very high rate -- unless they are LED i believe)

Example.

You are looking at your windows desktop. Nothing is moving.
With a CRT at 60Hz many people can see flickering quite easily (especially if you look through the corner of your eye)
With an LCD, even if it is a really bad 30Hz (50ms) LCD it will appear indistinguishable to a high end 120Hz LCD

This all changes with viewing fast moving movie scenes or playing video games which require quick side to side FOV changes. The slower the response time the more you will get a ghosting effect during these movements.

So, If you watch mostly romantic comedies you wont really care about the slow response. If you watch movies more like 300, then you will appreciate the fast response time.

I just read thought this entire thread. Wow.

I was looking for information on stripping the reflective coating from my 15.4" screen. I am getting a very dim projection (as seen here: http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...t&p=270047) and I think the reflective coating might be the problem. If anyone has some advice, could you please respond to that post. Thank you.

I'm also quite interested in an update... I just sold off my controller in anticipation of buying the MST board, but I'd love to hop on the updated 1:1 group-buy bandwagon if it doesn't mean waiting too long.

Im using a Dell Inspirion XPS gen 1 // so my backlight has been going out for about a year or so now, and finally is dead. Replaced inverter and confirmed it was the true backlight. Took apart monitor and well.... it looks pretty damn impossible to replace the backlight.


So i want to buy a replacement, and i know the model number is "LTN154U1-L01" and are kind of expensive, depending on where i look.

My question is: What is the difference between LTN154U1-L01, LTN154U1-L02, LTN154U1-L03??? the last part obviously... but if i can buy one for so much cheaper and have it do the same thing... .its a obvious buy

Anyone please correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the last 3 alpha-numeric characters indicate for whom the panel was manufactured (ie, L01 indicates Dell). Now what I don't know is whether the panels have different cabling based on manufacturer or not so you may not be able to just replace any LTN154U1-L01 with any of its cousins. Other than cabling I believe all LTN154U1 should be interchangeable (but again, cabling may not even change).

The last numbers/letters indicate the manufacturing batch number and/or the laptop manufacturer it is a replacement for.

Since you already have the proper cable any one will work.

Now i hope your right b/c i can buy the L03 version at 50$ .... which is a huge save on my wallet

Where in the world can you get a Wuxga 15.4" for $50 ?

.... i just went to buy it and it appears they labeled it all wrong.... and put it into the wrong section so... i can't....

guess i have to go find that site for 150$ or w/e

Hey Johnzo... any word on the 1:1???? its tax return time and mines on the way... would LOVE to pick one up, but 1:1 would be perfect. Please advise! Oh and if you have a chance to reply, or if anyone else knows (this thread is WAY too long to read again...) what is the color depth of your panels??? Cheers!

The controller is coming soon, I will be taking preorders in about 3 weeks.

I missed if this has been mentioned or not, but have you decided on a price yet?

New controller is here.

http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=24594

In case anyone missed the link to the Kontron card (one of the two 1:1, HDCP options available - see above for the other option - Pixelworks) go here. It's now available, the only down side is having to fab your own LVDS cable.

AND flash the controller with the Lcd information.

....that almost seems like a plus for me...I would have gone for the kontron if it weren't for the pixelworks coming out a few days before and having a LVDS cable already fabbed. The flexibility of being able to program the board for any panel is outstanding in my opinion.

You hit the nail on the head, you can upgrade later if a smaller high res panel becomes available.

hi,
I'm from the french diy projector community, and watching at your wuxga results, I'm jalous

It is possible to buy the LG lp154wu1 with the MST (and sometimes with the pixelworks) controller in Europe, but I could not find enough feedbacks about the LG panel. Have somebody stripped it successfully ? Are they problems with this panel ?

I hope you will answer me, cause I did a few research on your board but it is very difficult to found out what I'm searching for cause I could not stay focused on all your threads (my english is not good enough )

ty

I live in Poland. I bought my pixelworks at manhattan lcd. It works great! I did find pixelworks controllers on austrian site but they were way more expensive...somewhere around 375euro. Go for the controller at manhattan lcd. Even if you will pay customs, it is still a bargain.

hi and ty for your answer.

Look at that: if I buy the samsung 15.4 + pixelworks on manhattanlcd, it cost me $512.68 with the shipment (~330€) and I may have to pay 50€ more for taxes (~78$).
But if I order it on www.diy-beamer.com it cost me 314€ (488$) shipment included, for the LG 15.4 wuxga + pixelworks and no taxes for sure.

So the second option is more interesting for me , but I still ask my question : Is the LG panel ok ? Could we disassembly and strip it easily ?

ps: cywilg do you have a link to see your projector ? What panel do you have to run with the pixelworks ?

I was asking the same question about the LG panel. Someone on this forum said that it should be fine. At the end I found a sharp panel (class B)on ebay for 94usd with shipping. It has one bright spot but nothing big. I did the reflective layer strip and right now I'm stripping the antiglare. As soon as I have any pictures of my proyector I'll post them.
As for the controller I think you are right. The prices have dropped way down. I payed for my controller in february 295usd at manhattan lcd. Now I see they are 106euro at www.diy-beamer.com and they were way more expensive. Notice that they have 2 hdmi inputs:)

Does anyone sell the 15.4 LCD's already stripped?

No.

The LG/Philips should be fine. I run it and found nothing against it. Speed is fine.
Bu I have serious controller issues, I bought an MST and a Pixelworks from Carpow, the firmware seems to be programmed wrong. Any way of programing it by myself? Or to flash a proper Firmware onto the controller?
Regards
-sNOOp-