The Kontron Tech has received the new LCD, but he is on holiday until Monday.. so we will wait and see what happens next week!

Hey HitesFiero,

Great work on the Kontron. Out of curiosity, have you had a chance to test the HDCP yet? I just browsed through the manual and noticed it said "Optional HDCP." I know people have asked Kontron this before and they said it supports it, but the way their sales people have talking to everyone, I'll believe it when it's been tested. Optional implies to me you have to ask them to turn it on (probably do to the HDCP regulations).

Either way, I love the specs on this thing. Even if HDCP doesn't work, I think once you get yours working and post the panel file, I'm going for one in my new build.


~heli0s

I think if you buy it "off the shelf" it doesn't have HDCP enabled - but the ones that I am getting programmed will have HDCP as we have specifically requested it.

Perhaps, but at least you will know what won't work based on my experiences!






I was told that it would be enabled, I haven't had a chance to test it yet.

Yes I have had a panel (X2gen) without antiglare and it was very transmissive without modification.
Are you suggesting there is a WUXGA 15.4 without antiglare. I want one.

If we have to put these cables together ourselves will you guys send us the connectors and maybe even some wire with the kit?
Or tell us exactly where to buy these connectors. (one was sorta proprietary right? and the other you could use an IDE connector?)

I will probably use my bulk Cat6 if its good enough, or should we try to buy some shielded Cat5/Cat5e/Cat6?
I think if HitesFiero proves that shielded Cat5 is better we should try and send some out with the kits.
We need to get the kit stuff together soon, we might have the panel files ready by next week at this rate.

I also have the x2gen and it is pretty transmissive. I am sure I used to see places online that sold 15.4 inch WUXGA without antiglare. Can't we order them from the manufacturer that way still?

Also does anyone know if I could steal the cable from my x2gen, I am sure it wouldn't mind.
I saw the pictures here and just realized the connectors look similar.
http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15376
I don't have pics of my x2gen cable because my camera is at my dorm and I'm not.

The LCD end of your x2gen's cable is probably a JAE 30. If the channel lines are that really tiny coax, then I woulndn't attempt to modify it, I've tried it's next to impossable to strip the ends cleanly. If you have a seperate lead for the - and + then you might be ok.

I'm attempting to use a JAE 30 on the board side of the OEM WUXGA cable, at this point. I think this will offer better noise reduction. I believe DigiKey offers the JAE 30 with crimp connectors which would make this much simpler. But since I don't like wasting new parts for experiments I'll be soldering on a used one.

Well, someone on ebay is selling "glossy" LP154WU1 panels. I'm already sold on getting an LG display, so I was considering getting one, but I wanted see if anyone has had bad luck with glossy panels first.


~heli0s

this is the most possible sceanrio. anyway I recommend cat 5e or cat6

glossy/matte ag makes a difference how it's reflect back incident light. matte reflect less light but reduces the panel's contrast. but i think since we are using these panels in a non-standard way, i.e. we are not looking at the panel, tehre is no difference between glossy/matte even when if you wipe the ag out

Be careful with the ones that say for example "LP154WU1 COMPATIBLE" since it means just that - it's compatible with the LP154WU1 but not necessarily a LP154WU1. If you're set on a specific brand/model, contact the seller first and make them update the listing or guarantee the brand/model you want. Happy LCD hunting

LVDS cables are a strange animal! So I have one of my old new old stock Dell JAE 30 ended cables. Theses are pretty much standard for wide screens as far as pinouts are concerned. Now this cable in not using that micro coax stuff for each of the data channels, it has a separate lead for – and +. So I have the other end bare and the leads tinned with lead free solder, ready to attach to another JAE 30 to mate with the Kontron board. But I decided to check for faults with my DVM by just doing a continuity test. Keep in mind that this is a new cable that has never been used and has bare open ends on the board side. So I start checking the +’s on the channels and I am getting continuity between all the +’s and the grounds! I specked between 4 and 5 ohms between them. I can only assume this is some normal function for the differential signaling. I’ve installed and set up hundreds of SCSSI cables, but I never had to build to test resistance on them, I would just replace them if I ran into a bad one. Can anybody confirm this? I have most of the leads finished now, so we’ll see what happens.

That just don't sound right do it? Can't wait to see the explanation since I'll fulfill my "learn something new every day" requirement early today.

Hey HF,
Man that sounds weird, and not right. But then I've never worked with these cables.

Do you think the Kontron techs might be any help here on some of these minor issues you're having? They sell these boards for use in OEM applications, so I'm sure they get questions like this all the time from prospective customers doing R&D. I know so far the Kontron people have been pretty unhelpful, but maybe it's worth an email or call to someone (if you have time). Worse case they say sorry they can't help and you wasted a few minutes, best case you get lucky and find a tech who can explain the cable in detail, and save you some headaches.

Anyway, good luck.
~heli0s

I found the problem, theres a wierd propriatary Dell grounding bus like thing on in the OEM Dell JAE 30. I'm working on removing it. I'll have more details later.

Discovery! The bus bar is is contacting a super thin foil jacket on the outside of the wire. It is nearly impossable to strip. It looks like I might scrap the OEM cable idea. A little more soldering and a simple test will tell.

jonjandran, any word on the HDMI to analog audio test of the MST board?

Sorry I forgot. I will test it out tonight.

just back from the holidays, i saw many progresses hitesfiero!!!
thanks!!

heli0s,

I'm looking at that panel as well... Please let me know if you find out anything about whether it is better, worse, or if the AG needs to be removed at all.

I have an LG that I removed the polarizer on and then (With subsequent experiments) eventually it stopped making a picture at all.

So I'm looking to replace the panel, and would LOVE to not strip the AG on this puppy. It'd be worth the $$$ for me.

Archilea

I haven't heard from anyone else on if it's better, but I would *think* it would be. I mean, if you compare a typical matte anti-glare lcd and glossy, it's obvious the glossy screen's contrast and color look better to the eye. And the benefit most people seem to get by removing a traditional anti-glare is slightly improved color and contrast. So if the anti-glare degradation our eye is seeing gets translated to the projection as we've seen, then reason would suggest the glossy improvement would also. But I would still love to hear if anyone's compared them first hand.

If I find a good source I'll let everyone here know. I'm scouring the web for one, contacting companies here and there. Almost all I've seen are knockoffs (labeled *compatible*), not actual LG. Again, I'm just searching for LG for myself though. I saw a few new genuine ones, with upgrade options for glossy screens, but they were way overpriced at like $450!


~heli0s

Hi everybody,
I've recently bought the 15.4 Johnzo 's kit. It looks great!
But I've a problem. I'm running vista with a E6600, 7900GTO, and i can't choose the 1920*1200 resolution.
I've haven't the choice in the nvidia panel...
I've only succeed to have 1080p with 1920*1080...

I'm not sure this is the right place to post. Sorry about that and thank's for youre reply!

What input are you using on Johnzo's controller? You should be able to get 1920x1200 with either the D-SUB or DVI-D

I've tried component, vga, and hdmi...

Component will only to 1080p max, same with the HDMI. Only HDMI 1.3 and up will work at higher resolutions.
With the VGA, when you have it plugged into your computer, make sure you are not trying to "mirror" the image with another monitor. Best thing to do is use it as the default display and disable any others that are plugged in (this is, of course, you have more than one display hooked up).

thank's i'm gonna retry this

OK first ? what driver version are you using? If you are running 93.71 then change your control panel settings to classic and then untick the "Hide modes this monitor cannot support" and you will be able to see the 1920*1200 option. (The 7900GTO is supported by this driver version)

Now I just updated to the latest driver version and classic control panel is not an option anymore and I can't find the "Hide modes this monitor cannot support" option anywhere else.

But now if what mac_angel says is true, which I just cant figure out why it would not be supported since this controller will scale the input no matter the res to 1920*1200 anyway, then if you do untick the "Hide modes this monitor cannot support" and change the res to 1920*1200 then you may very well end up with a blue screen or whatever this controller will display when the display settings are not supported.

EDIT: I just realized you said you were running vista aka ME2, so finding an older driver to overide the resolution might not be possible.

One more thing, are they really using HDMI specs? Or is it DVI with an HDMI connector. Since they are the same thing but with the audio difference, then why would I or any one for that matter actually want true HDMI spec on a controller board for a 15.4" LCD panel?

You need HDMI for HDCP which is in BluRay and HD DVD movies. HDMI 1.0 - 1.2a supports resolutions of 1920x1080p at 60Hz. HDMI 1.3 (and a/b) support 2560x1600 at 60Hz. For people that want to use a computer with their PJ build and want higher resolutions than 1920x1080 (or 1600x1200) will need to either use the VGA connector (D-SUB), a true DVD-D connector or HDMI 1.3 +. HDMI 1.3 + also supports Deep Colour (Candian here) which is twice the colour capabilities as the previous generations of HDMI.

All of this has made me think of something else. What version of HDMI is on the Kontron board?

If you need HDMI then why does my 32" Olevia lcd tv have a HDCP enabled dvi port on it?

DVI was the first generation of main stream Digital video. HDMI mostly just expanded on that for television and included an audio with it. Still, I've never seen a TV with DVI-D and HDCP compliant through that. Can you tell me the model?

Sorry to break off from the controller discussion, but does anybody want to give their experiences with the Samsung panel and stripping the reflective layers or antiglare?

I should be getting mine on Saturday, and am very interested in removing, most likely, the reflective layers.

Not sure if this one is the exact same, I can't seem to find my owners manual to tell you and mine is flush mounted in the wall so I can't look at the back of it. But this is what it looks like and has the same inputs.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16889022009

lol, yup, I guess I'm wrong. I also remembered that some computer monitors have DVI-D and support HDCP. As well as the HDFury uses a DVI to D-SUB connector for HDCP.

Still, anyone know what the Kontron's HDMI version is?

If I had the know how to design a controller for a wuxga panel I would have it with a dual link Dvi-D HDCP enabled port on it.

Any way I am now done polluting this thread with my ramblings.

Since pretty much none of my ramblings had anything to do with the 15.4 wuxga, please feel free to delete my posts if you feel the need.

Anybody?

I was going to ask in the Sharp thread, but didn't want to clutter it with things for another panel.

It should strip like most other WUXGA's. If your really scared about doing it, you can always try and find a broken Samsung panel on eBay to practice/experiment on.

Hey guys,
I'm having a hell of a time finding finding a "genuine" LG 15.4 display (LP154WU1) anywhere for under $450. I've seen a few places though that will quote on bulk sales with minimun orders of $500. The question I have is does anyone else want an LG panel like I do? If so, if I can get a good quote this way, does anyone want to go in on a mini group buy? I'm trying to get quotes around $250 or less, otherwise I may just give up and look for a Sharp on ebay or something.


~heli0s

heli0s, I'm curious to know what specifically about the LG is driving your need desire? There are several Sharp, Toshiba, and Samsungs out there that are roughly equivalent...

Inquiring minds and all that...

LG is a faster panel with better contrast.

I want one too.


LG Phillips

- Model: LP154WU1
- Response Time: 16ms
- Contrast Ratio: 600:1
- Color: 256k (16.2mil w/ dithering)
- Screen Size Ratio: 16:10
- Resolution: 1920x1200

Sharp

- Model: LQ154M1LW02
- Response Time: 25ms
- Contrast Ratio: 400:1
- Color: 256k (16.2mil w/ dithering)
- Screen Size Ratio: 16:10
- Resolution: 1920x1200

Samsung:

Model: LTN154U1
SIZE 15.4"
RESOLUTION WUXGA
NUMBER OF PIXELS 1,920 x 1,200
ACTIVE AREA(mm²) 331.2 x 207.0
PIXEL PITCH(mm) 0.173
NUMBER OF COLORS 262K
Color Gamut(%) 45
CONTRAST RATIO 300:1
BRIGHTNESS(cd/m²) 175
RESPONSE TIME(ms ) 25

Toshiba

LTD154EZ0S

- Model: LTD154EZ0S
- Response Time: 35ms
- Contrast Ratio: 350:1
- Color: 256k (16.2mil w/ dithering)
- Screen Size Ratio: 16:10
- Resolution: 1920x1200

PM johnzo1995 and see if he can get some more.

I don't see why everyone is having such a hard time finding the LG panel at a reasonable price. I got mine of eBay last week for $155. Just search for WUXGA on ebay, and if the auction doesn't say which make and model number the screen is, just ask the seller and they should know. That's how I did it.

Refer to this post for where/how I purchased my LG.

DELL INSPIRON 8500 8600 15.4 WUXGA LCD COMPLETE TOP

Thanks, good point about looking for other models like Dell. I didn't consider that (mostly since I didn't know these Dell models used that display). Probably part of the reason I'm having a hard time is I'm a little picky. I'd prefer a new one (with a glossy screen if possible), and not a refurb since I'm worried about dead pixels. The reason is the last refurbed LCD I bought (direct from the manufacturer no less), looked like I was looking at the night sky on black backgrounds. It was covered with dead pixels, unusable, and they didn't accept returns. I can't afford to get burned again.



Thanks jonjandran. I'll do that.


heli0s

You have to check back every now and then, but this guy's eBay store has new pulled LG screens from Dell laptops. Your Laptops And Parts Direct Store. He usually has two or three auctions up for them under the model number Dell D800 or D810.

FYI:

If anyone's interested, I talked to a guy who makes top quality custom LVDS cables. His prices are a little steep, but if anyone thinks it too daunting a task to make your own, don't have midget fingers, and don't want to fork out $200+ for the crimper, pm me and I'll give you his contact info. He charges $65 for a single cable, and $45 for 15-24. Or, once HF gets the panel file ready and people start buying the Kontron, maybe someone might want to group buy from him. I'm probably going to attempt my own cable first without a crimper when the time comes, but at least I know one place I can get one that works if I fail miserably.


~heli0s

Here's an idea: Buy an LVDS controller from Hong Kong on ebay, since it comes with an LVDS cable for the specific panel, a 12V 4A power adapter (which sell by themselves for over $20) , plus a controller that you could use as a backup. The basic one would cost you $51 shipped to anywhere. You'd save $14 and have a decent amount of extras for less.

Sure, I was also considering something similar. I was going to start by trying to hack another lvds cable, but it's still not a picnic. Even if the lcd end is good, you still have to wire the other end to a flex ribbon connector to match the pinout of the Kontron, albeit that's the easier end. Even still, for some people working with those tiny wires may not be worth it, so at least the less techincal peole have a solid option for a premade one. Anyway, good idea for a head start on a homemade one.

I'm curious if anyone has any news about what version of HDMI is on the Kontron board. I'm interested in 1.3 or higher since it does a higher resolution than 1920x1080

I had no idea you were referencing specifically to a Kontron controller. I thought you were talking about custom LVDS cables in general.
Yes, I do see now you made reference to Kontron in your message, I just overlooked that.
Flex ribbon connector??
The difference in pinout between the Kontron and the CVT/Rowa (eBay) controllers is an easy task, it just involves moving the pins around on the one end (the controller end). Shouldn't be difficult, as the controller pinouts for both controllers are documented. The LVDS cable that comes with CVT/Rowa controllers is supplied with the same type header plug at the controller end used on the Kontron boards, but, yes, the pinout is different on that end.

Yes, some people would be better off having one made I guess.

The digital port on the Kontron is DVI, not HDMI. I don't know about version specs, but the manual says the DVI supports up to 1920x1200.

heli0s