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Full Version: The Official 15.4" Wuxga Q&a Thread
Lumenlab > Audio Video Sciences > Projector Builder > DIY Video Projector Design
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kancerus
QUOTE (sfij @ Jul 31 2007, 10:28 AM) *
Kancerus, is it possible to ask your man to take a photo of the problem? there are certainly 6 different colour ordering in the OpenLDI protocol, maybe just a wrong one has been applied in the controller.



I am not sure he will - but ill ask anyway.

He is a tech that works for Kontron - they obviously know their controllers etc so I'm sure hes tried a few different things...

Just gotta find an Aussie with a panel to send - otherwise redherringhack has offered to send his.
mac_angel
anyone have Kontron news yet?
kancerus
QUOTE (mac_angel @ Aug 4 2007, 12:06 PM) *
anyone have Kontron news yet?



Not yet - I am still looking for somebody willing to send their panel - redherringhack has put his to other use and cant send it anymore, any volunteers?
NinHowFritz
Do I get a discount? rolleyes.gif

I'm in the US too, I maybe could depending on how long it would take, etc.
-Bill-
Kancerus, do you know if the tech is willing to send HitesFiero a panel file to test?
He said in the previous page he would post some pics soon, if these pics are good (even without working backlight from the kontron) we should go ahead and setup the group buy, it really would be nice to get my projector running before the month is over so I can have all these summer outdoor HD movie nights everyone wants to have.

If I had a 15.4 inch WUXGA screen I would be willing to send it in, the closest I have is a 15" UXGA on my current old laptop that I can't part with since its currently my only computer, and my brother has a 17" inch WUXGA (sharp or samsung I think), maybe I can steal that and send it in later when his laptop breaks again and he gets a new one.
I also have a stripped 15.4 inch 1280x800 panel with the FFC extended. (X2Gen)
I will probably be building myself a new PC with a quad core Yorkfield and at least one G90 this year, so I'll be set to run anything on the projector later.

Also when we do the group buy will we get the serial cables as well for the controller? What about possible extra LVDS cables in case I want to experiment with a new panel someday? I saw the board has multiple connections for different types of monitors.

Also how would you go about buying that TV tuner expansion board? I might get that to use in our dorm room this year. I would also like to know if you know what the cost is.

To HitesFiero, could you give us the software at some point? Or would that be breaking some kind of kontron rule?
You said you had trouble getting the software that could actually output a panel file.

I wonder if all this panel programming knowledge will help us craft more EDID overrides at laptopvideo2go.
A few laptops, mine included, had some major problems with figuring out what LCD was installed.
On my Quadro4 700 Go GL, if I swap this 15 inch sharp with the samsung version of the screen it will not work with any driver between 65.xx and 91.28 or so.
Nvidia engineers had to fix this one, no EDID override would work.

While were on the topic, HitesFiero do you think if we could pull any LCD data from 15.4 inch WUXGA laptops that it would help your programming? Its probably too late for this, but I could search laptopvideo2go if you wanted...
Some of the other moderators crafted a tool that can read panel data directly from the graphics card, and users have posted this stuff in the forum.
Time to go clean up the wiring in my projector, hope the programming goes well.

Bill
jonjandran
QUOTE (kancerus @ Aug 4 2007, 09:25 AM) *
Not yet - I am still looking for somebody willing to send their panel - redherringhack has put his to other use and cant send it anymore, any volunteers?


I've got a Samsung if you still need one sent.

Pm me.
HitesFiero
Update time!;
I got the backlight wired and working in a no adjustable full on mode, I post the diagram soon. Now that I can see the full image, I can see that I have greens where there should be blacks! I think the problem has more to do with my LVDS cable than anything, I do some checks with my DVM on Monday. rolleyes.gif

Bill; I did pull a MODE LINE from my wifes Dell M60 with this panel plugged in and I used those values as my base and calculated from there. In theory you could just plug in the values for the MODE at max res, but you would probably have some problems at lower scaled resolutions, but your idea is on the money.

Pictures; I am sorry that I havent post any yet folks. I know I need to put my digital camera where my mouth is! Ill try to get some on Photo Bucket on Monday.

Kontron programming software; I have committed to make all my data and files available to the community, EXECPT the Kontron panel workbench app. Im not saying I wont, but I dont want to burn my German engineer contact at Kontron, as Im not sure if is meant to be shared. I will ask him and abide by his decision.

Good stuff coming soon
carpow
HDMI 1080P controller for 15.4 LCD (1920*1200)
jonjandran
QUOTE (carpow @ Aug 5 2007, 07:02 AM) *
HDMI 1080P controller for 15.4 LCD (1920*1200)


Yes we know about it. But does it have 1:1 pixel mapping? smile.gif
sfij
QUOTE (-Bill- @ Aug 4 2007, 04:50 PM) *
Kancerus, do you know if the tech is willing to send HitesFiero a panel file to test?
He said in the previous page he would post some pics soon, if these pics are good (even without working backlight from the kontron) we should go ahead and setup the group buy, it really would be nice to get my projector running before the month is over so I can have all these summer outdoor HD movie nights everyone wants to have.
That's a great idea!

QUOTE (-Bill- @ Aug 4 2007, 04:50 PM) *
Also when we do the group buy will we get the serial cables as well for the controller? What about possible extra LVDS cables in case I want to experiment with a new panel someday? I saw the board has multiple connections for different types of monitors.
you can do the serial cable yourself easily. Regarding LVDS I have a set of four JAE-30 connectors, so If I succed I could make 3 LVDS cables.

QUOTE (-Bill- @ Aug 4 2007, 04:50 PM) *
Also how would you go about buying that TV tuner expansion board? I might get that to use in our dorm room this year. I would also like to know if you know what the cost is.
the tuner AFAIK is a PAL one, possible can do NTSC, but am I right that NTSC will be shut down in the US this year? so this tuner is not so much use for you.

QUOTE (-Bill- @ Aug 4 2007, 04:50 PM) *
While were on the topic, HitesFiero do you think if we could pull any LCD data from 15.4 inch WUXGA laptops that it would help your programming?

SHARP, Toshiba and LG CAS have been published in this topic so far.
NinHowFritz
QUOTE (sfij @ Aug 5 2007, 06:51 PM) *
the tuner AFAIK is a PAL one, possible can do NTSC, but am I right that NTSC will be shut down in the US this year? so this tuner is not so much use for you.

I dont think the end is near for NTSC in the US, it's still pretty popular, isn't it?
sfij
QUOTE (NinHowFritz @ Aug 6 2007, 01:30 AM) *
I dont think the end is near for NTSC in the US, it's still pretty popular, isn't it?


okay, i've just read in the news, that you have a bill about switching down analogue in 2008. same will happen in the EU in 2012 biggrin.gif
jonjandran
QUOTE (NinHowFritz @ Aug 5 2007, 06:30 PM) *
I dont think the end is near for NTSC in the US, it's still pretty popular, isn't it?


The end is near for Pal and Ntsc. We don't need 352x288 at 50hz anymore than we need 352x240 at 60hz.

HD has changed the resolutions and frame rates significantly and pretty soon Pal and Ntsc will be a moot point for us old timers to discuss smile.gif
fmerrill
The current date for shutdown of NTSC Broadcasts in the US is February 17 2009.
Even after that, if you still have cable, they will still be using NTSC for their analog signals.

The shutdown is just for OTA (over the air) broadcasts.
All of those are required to be digital only after that date.
Also, notice I did not say HDTV. HDTV is digital, but digital is not necessarily HDTV.
Most digital currently being broadcast OTA is not HDTV.
jonjandran
QUOTE (fmerrill @ Aug 5 2007, 07:46 PM) *
The current date for shutdown of NTSC Broadcasts in the US is February 17 2009.
Even after that, if you still have cable, they will still be using NTSC for their analog signals.

The shutdown is just for OTA (over the air) broadcasts.
All of those are required to be digital only after that date.
Also, notice I did not say HDTV. HDTV is digital, but digital is not necessarily HDTV.
Most digital currently being broadcast OTA is not HDTV.


But seriously, how long will people be using older televisions. Currently over 30% of U.S. households have an HDTV. I don't think in a few years anyone will be using coax or rca. They will be hooking up those hdtvs with hdmi/component. And the Pal/Ntsc issue will be over.
x_25
We actualy just got rid of a 20+ year old tv that was our main tv. We got a 27" standard definition tv for free. In my room i have 13" tv that my dad got for a computer monitor for his atari color computer. And i dont see that we will be buying an hdtv for several more years. (except for the projector that i am going to build.)
-Bill-
Well for our dorm we will be using standard NTSC comcrap cable for the next year, and as mentioned it won't be shut down just yet.

So does kontron have any plans to make a 2 way cable card accepting add on that works with HD too?
Maybe I should just go ahead and install an HDMI switcher with many ports in the projector.
I wonder if Comcast will run fiber into out dorm this year if they have to switch over, I hear that is what the techs do now.

QUOTE (sfij @ Aug 5 2007, 05:51 PM) *
you can do the serial cable yourself easily. Regarding LVDS I have a set of four JAE-30 connectors, so If I succeed I could make 3 LVDS cables.
Didn't somebody (HitesFiero?) say the serial cable was wired up funny for the kontron board earlier in this topic? Or am I getting my topics mixed up over too much caffeine this weekend? wink.gif
Also are you saying the rest of us will have to splice together our own LVDS cables? (can't buy them premade with the right connectors)
sfij
Bill nothing serious with the serial, it just need straight wiring, not crossed. regarding LVDS you can roll your own or ask some technician to do it. however in a bigger group buy it could be part of the deal...
HitesFiero
QUOTE (-Bill- @ Aug 5 2007, 08:38 PM) *
Well for our dorm we will be using standard NTSC comcrap cable for the next year, and as mentioned it won't be shut down just yet.

So does kontron have any plans to make a 2 way cable card accepting add on that works with HD too?
Maybe I should just go ahead and install an HDMI switcher with many ports in the projector.
I wonder if Comcast will run fiber into out dorm this year if they have to switch over, I hear that is what the techs do now.

Didn't somebody (HitesFiero?) say the serial cable was wired up funny for the kontron board earlier in this topic? Or am I getting my topics mixed up over too much caffeine this weekend? ;)
Also are you saying the rest of us will have to splice together our own LVDS cables? (can't buy them premade with the right connectors)


The serial is dead simple, just don't make your cable too long, That's where I ran into trouble. In fact, make it as short as possable.

Bill you said that you had a lead on some sort of "panel scanning" app? That would be sweet!
-Bill-
Here is what i was talking about.
http://www.laptopvideo2go.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=756
QUOTE (Laptopvideo2Go)
* [NERD v1.083] (361.570 bytes)
NERD.cmd uses the following tools (all included in the package):
- LV2GO_DIRT.exe: Display Information Retrieval Tool. Coded by Teraphy.
- LV2GO_EDID.exe: Reads out EDID. Coded by Teraphy.
- LV2GO_MXM.exe: Checks for MXM compatibilty. Coded by Teraphy.
- DEVCON.exe: A MS file for reading out Device specifics.
- CHKCPU.exe: Reads out verbose CPU info
- PCI32.exe: Reads out loads of PCI/AGP device info
- reg.exe: only needed for Windows 2000.
Now it was designed to be able to properly identify the graphics card and LCD and other system information (pulls a lot of data, like chipset, BIOS version, VBIOS, ect) in laptops.
It can pull EDIDs and stuff. (all the data is helpful in making EDID fixes, among other things like graphics card driver fixes/enhancements for certain laptops)
Our german admin came up with all the funny acronyms like DIRT a while ago.

Now as for pulling other information, you will have to talk to Rene and Teraphy, and both are probably on summer vacation right now.
*checks vacation status*
Teraphy has been around lately, working on the forum. We are in the process of pruning the forum or making a new one, its way too big/messy now. (although I see lumenlab has a lot more posts and users, hehe)
You can contact Teraphy through our forum here by PM or email about reading the display output timings and stuff. (he probably won't appreciate me posting his email)
http://www.laptopvideo2go.com/forum/index.php?showuser=2
I bet he knows how to code a proper display timing retrieval program, it just hasn't been done or posted.
Since you know exactly what timing info you need it might be better if you ask.

You can run that NERD tool straight on your Precision M60 in Win XP, 2000, and Vista and it should successfully pull your EDID.
For everyone else you can run the tool on other types of PCs and see what info it pulls just for fun, it might even be able to pull EDID info from ATI and integrated graphics laptops. It runs fine on desktop PCs too, at least last time we tested it it did.
The tool outputs the data in one big log file.

Edit: Here is my EDID pull from the older 1.044 version. (latest one failed, probably cause my card has trouble pulling EDIDs with newer drivers)
CODE
--- [Controller #1] VBE/DDC Capabilities ---
- b1 = DDC2 Support @ A0 (128-byte EDID)
- b4 = DDC2 Support @ A6 (256-byte EDID)
- b7 = Multiple display controllers

--- [Controller #2] VBE/DDC Capabilities ---
- b1 = DDC2 Support @ A0 (128-byte EDID)
- b7 = Multiple display controllers

--- Read EDID 1.X Block @ A0 ---
00 ff ff ff ff ff ff 00 - 4d 10 8e 13 00 00 00 00 : ........MŽ....
00 00 01 03 80 1e 17 78 - ca 71 80 99 55 50 8d 26 : ..€xq€™UP&
25 50 54 00 00 00 a9 40 - 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 : %PT...@
01 01 01 01 01 01 80 3e - 40 00 62 b0 32 40 40 c0 : €>@.b2@@
13 00 30 e4 10 00 00 18 - 00 00 00 10 00 00 00 00 : .0.........
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 - 0a 20 00 00 00 10 00 00 : ......... .....
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 - 00 00 0a 20 00 00 00 10 : ........... ...
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 - 00 00 00 00 0a 20 00 ec : ............. .

--- Readable EDID Format ---
(08-09)  ID Manufacturer Name ________________  = SHP
(11-10)  Product ID Code _____________________  = 138E
(12-15)  Last 5 Digits of Serial Number ______  = [Not Implemented]
(16)     Week of Manufacture _________________  = 0
(17)     Year of Manufacture _________________  = 1990
(10-17)  Complete Serial Number ______________  = [Not Implemented]
(18-19)  EDID Version Number _________________  = 1.3
(20)     Video Input Definition:
     - Digital Signal
         -> Non-VESA DFP 1.x Compatible
(21)     Maximum Horizontal Image Size _______  = 300 mm
(22)     Maximum Vertical Image Size _________  = 230 mm
(23)     Display Gamma Value _________________  = 120
(24)     Power Management and Supported Feature(s):
     - Preferred Timing Mode
     - RGB Color
     - Suspend
     - Standby

--- Panel ID / PCI Device ---
Returned    004F.0004
Returned    004F.000C

Some of that is wrong, like the manufacture date. (lol) I have what is after some modding a Dell Precision M50 with a Quadro4 700 GoGL and (I believe) a sharp 15 inch UXGA. (have never taken apart the screen to check)
I cross flashed the system BIOS to turn my Inspiron 8200 into an M50.
I can probably get a better EDID readout if I downgrade to a 40 series nvidia driver, lol.
harvey
QUOTE (carpow @ Aug 5 2007, 04:02 AM) *
HDMI 1080P controller for 15.4 LCD (1920*1200)


Carpow,

Do you think this controller will work on those Dell XPS2 17 inch LCD ?
HitesFiero
Pics of my work in progress.

I'm having a bit of a sync issue, hence the green, an I can't hit anywhere near max res. I still have alot more tweeking to do.





HitesFiero




My LVDS cable, at on end a 44 pin 2.5" HD ribbon connector and the other a JAE 30


Here you can see where I rigged the backlight for testing
mac_angel
a lot better than I could do. Keep up the good work, we're all waiting not so patiently, lol.
HitesFiero
QUOTE (mac_angel @ Aug 6 2007, 06:25 PM) *
a lot better than I could do. Keep up the good work, we're all waiting not so patiently, lol.


No pressure huh? tongue.gif
semose
Remarkable. Absolutely remarkable. If you're looking to place an order for the CRT2LCD7MM from Canada, don't ask questions. The guy you'll be talking to seems fairly useless. You ask a simple question like "does this product come with a power supply, and if not, can I order one from you separately?" after which he "phones tech support" and you wait. For days.

Let's see who's faster? Someone paid to give me answers, or the industrious people of LL? Can anyone who's ordered from Kontron tell me if the CRT2LCD7MM comes with a PS, or if there is a separate Kontron part # for a PS, or if you have to take the specs and find one yourself?

I've just taken a look at the manual,

http://us.kontron.com/downloads/manual/CRTtoLCD-7_M12.pdf

and the board does have the standard 12V AC adapter barrel plug for an external power supply, but I'm not sure what amperage it's suppose to run on. Section 7, page 51 states:

QUOTE
Current Rating of Flatpanel Power supply:
PANEL VCC Steady State 3V / 5V and 12V @ +-5% : 3A
PANEL VCC 5sec. -5% 3V3 @5,6A
PANEL VCC 5sec. -5% 5V @ 5,15A
PANEL VCC 5sec. -2% 12V @ 4A
Note: Output power without any switch or short circuit breaker


So does that mean it requires a 12V, 3A DC source? Or is that the power specification going from the LCD controller to the LCD panel, after being converted by circuitry on the LCD controller?
HitesFiero
QUOTE (semose @ Aug 8 2007, 04:11 PM) *
Remarkable. Absolutely remarkable. If you're looking to place an order for the CRT2LCD7MM from Canada, don't ask questions. The guy you'll be talking to seems fairly useless. You ask a simple question like "does this product come with a power supply, and if not, can I order one from you separately?" after which he "phones tech support" and you wait. For days.

Let's see who's faster? Someone paid to give me answers, or the industrious people of LL? Can anyone who's ordered from Kontron tell me if the CRT2LCD7MM comes with a PS, or if there is a separate Kontron part # for a PS, or if you have to take the specs and find one yourself?

I've just taken a look at the manual,

http://us.kontron.com/downloads/manual/CRTtoLCD-7_M12.pdf

and the board does have the standard 12V AC adapter barrel plug for an external power supply, but I'm not sure what amperage it's suppose to run on. Section 7, page 51 states:
So does that mean it requires a 12V, 3A DC source? Or is that the power specification going from the LCD controller to the LCD panel, after being converted by circuitry on the LCD controller?


The $250 price is just for the board, $20 for the OSD keypad(you need this). The power supply is NOT included. For the moment I'm just using a 12VDC 1.5A AC adapter. There is enough current there to power the board LCD and the 15.4's tiny little BL inverter. The onboard power connector is the same as used in 3.5 floppy drives, which is great because I plan on using PC PS to power my panel and high current DC fans.
semose
QUOTE
The $250 price is just for the board, $20 for the OSD keypad(you need this). The power supply is NOT included. For the moment I'm just using a 12VDC 1.5A AC adapter. There is enough current there to power the board LCD and the 15.4's tiny little BL inverter. The onboard power connector is the same as used in 3.5 floppy drives, which is great because I plan on using PC PS to power my panel and high current DC fans.


Thanks for the info, HF, I'll give kontron a call back and place my order. I just want to make sure, I only need to use one OR the other power connectors, right? Or is it both?
HitesFiero
QUOTE (semose @ Aug 8 2007, 05:07 PM) *
Thanks for the info, HF, I'll give kontron a call back and place my order. I just want to make sure, I only need to use one OR the other power connectors, right? Or is it both?


One

CRTtoLCD7 Multimedita Board; p/n 21110
OSD panel; p/n22011
Serial cable kit (not in US stock); p/n 61005
mac_angel
sorry if this is a stupid question, but I haven't started a build yet. I've been waiting for the Kontron (or something with HDMI/HDCP) to start a build.

CRTtoLCD7 Multimedita Board; p/n 21110
OSD panel; p/n22011
Serial cable kit (not in US stock); p/n 61005
a power supply
LCD panel
lenses, box, etc

Is that all that is needed or am I missing something. Is the serial cable kit what connects to the computer to put the ROM in for the panels?
HitesFiero
QUOTE (mac_angel @ Aug 8 2007, 07:31 PM) *
sorry if this is a stupid question, but I haven't started a build yet. I've been waiting for the Kontron (or something with HDMI/HDCP) to start a build.

CRTtoLCD7 Multimedita Board; p/n 21110
OSD panel; p/n22011
Serial cable kit (not in US stock); p/n 61005
a power supply
LCD panel
lenses, box, etc

Is that all that is needed or am I missing something. Is the serial cable kit what connects to the computer to put the ROM in for the panels?


Yes, it's just a simple RS232 with a crossed Rx/Tx and a ground. I made my own in about 15 min. biggrin.gif

What kind of lamp are you planning on using? Condenser lens?
mac_angel
honestly, I haven't decided yet. I was waiting until the boards were up and working with HDCP (I'm already collecting BluRay movies) before I start my build. I have a 108" Draper HighDef Grey screen already. I had a Sony projector before, but only did WXGA (1366x768). Sold it off on eBay a while back and been wanting to build a PJ that was WUXGA with good timings for fast action movies and gaming. I'm really picky on getting it as good as I can, both sound and video. Sound I'm good. Paradigm Reference speakers 7.1 (sub-woofer is 4500 Peak/1500 RMS) and a Yamaha RX-V2400 (upgrading to either the RX-V2700 or RX-V 2800 - anyone want my 2400? lol).
Anyways, using my computer for DVDs so I have that for upscaling and de-interlacing. My BluRay is actually on my Dell XPS-M1710. I want to get the PJ up and running so I can play my video games on it, like FEAR, Oblivion, STALKER, etc. As well as watching HighDef movies and satelite.
Any recommendations for me and everyone else for the lamp, lenses and triplets?
semose
HF, quick question on the LVDS cable you made. You said (though for the life of me, I can't find the post) you used a 44 pin laptop HDD cable, but the CRT2LCD7MM manual shows a 40 pin connector referred to as JILI40. This confuses me, care to elaborate? Now that I've shown my inability to locate posts, what is the name of the connector on the LCD panel itself, and where did you source it, if you don't mind me asking? Also, is the pin out for this cable available anywhere?

Finally placed my order with Kontron today, so I'm trying to tie up all the loose ends. Speaking of which, is the demo version of the .pnl file software capable of flashing the CRT2LCD7MM, or am I going to need the full version?
HitesFiero
QUOTE (semose @ Aug 9 2007, 12:38 PM) *
HF, quick question on the LVDS cable you made. You said (though for the life of me, I can't find the post) you used a 44 pin laptop HDD cable, but the CRT2LCD7MM manual shows a 40 pin connector referred to as JILI40. This confuses me, care to elaborate? Now that I've shown my inability to locate posts, what is the name of the connector on the LCD panel itself, and where did you source it, if you don't mind me asking? Also, is the pin out for this cable available anywhere?

Finally placed my order with Kontron today, so I'm trying to tie up all the loose ends. Speaking of which, is the demo version of the .pnl file software capable of flashing the CRT2LCD7MM, or am I going to need the full version?


The 2 pins on each end of the HDD flex ribbon connector aren't used.
Ed Barajas
Hi, since this is the 15.4 thread I figured I'd ask this question here. How much bigger do the fresnels have to be than the LCD in a unsplit folded design? Secondly, I just want to vefify that the 15.4 will work with the standard LL triplet and the larger fresnels from 3dlens?

Thanks
jonjandran
QUOTE (Ed Barajas @ Aug 13 2007, 04:02 PM) *
Hi, since this is the 15.4 thread I figured I'd ask this question here. How much bigger do the fresnels have to be than the LCD in a unsplit folded design? Secondly, I just want to vefify that the 15.4 will work with the standard LL triplet and the larger fresnels from 3dlens?

Thanks


Always make the fresnels at least 1/2" wider than the Lcd.

Yes the standard triplet and oversize 3dlens fresnels will work with the 15.4"
Ed Barajas
Does anyone know anything about the Samsung LTN154U2-L04 it seems to be selling real cheap on ebay but it seems like nobody is buying it.
jonjandran
QUOTE (Ed Barajas @ Aug 14 2007, 02:19 AM) *
Does anyone know anything about the Samsung LTN154U2-L04 it seems to be selling real cheap on ebay but it seems like nobody is buying it.


Samsung LTN154U2-
SIZE 15.4"
RESOLUTION WUXGA
NUMBER OF PIXELS 1,920 x 1,200
ACTIVE AREA(mm) 331.2 x 207.0
PIXEL PITCH(mm) 0.173
NUMBER OF COLORS 262K
Color Gamut(%) 45
CONTRAST RATIO 300:1
BRIGHTNESS(cd/m) 175
RESPONSE TIME(ms ) 25
computercowboy
jonjandran, Do the MST boards for the 10.6" and 15.4" pull the audio off of the HDMI cable and make it available as analog out? Is that what that black miniplug is between VGA and Component?
jonjandran
QUOTE (computercowboy @ Aug 14 2007, 09:44 AM) *
jonjandran, Do the MST boards for the 10.6" and 15.4" pull the audio off of the HDMI cable and make it available as analog out? Is that what that black miniplug is between VGA and Component?


It is an audio out but I don't know if it takes it from HDMI or just RCA.

I wouldn't be able to test that until Thursday.
computercowboy
QUOTE (jonjandran @ Aug 14 2007, 11:33 AM) *
It is an audio out but I don't know if it takes it from HDMI or just RCA.

I wouldn't be able to test that until Thursday.


thanks.
when you do test it could you drop me a PM?

Johnzo any word on this? It is kinda your product
HitesFiero
It looks like the main source of my distortion is due to the LVDS cable. I'm using a .22 solid core Cat 5 wire and it appears that I'm picking up a lot of EMI. I separated the channel and clock pairs from the B+/Vpp and ground lines. Wow! The green backround went to black as it should be. There was still a lot of noise/distortion but it was better. I cobeled together a .22 stranded core cable, and it got better, but not great. I'm modifying the Dell LVDS flex cable that came with the panel, to interface with the JAE 30 connection on the board. We'll see what happens.........
semose
QUOTE (HitesFiero @ Aug 15 2007, 02:04 PM) *
It looks like the main source of my distortion is due to the LVDS cable. I'm using a .22 solid core Cat 5 wire and it appears that I'm picking up a lot of EMI. I separated the channel and clock pairs from the B+/Vpp and ground lines. Wow! The green backround went to black as it should be. There was still a lot of noise/distortion but it was better. I cobeled together a .22 stranded core cable, and it got better, but not great. I'm modifying the Dell LVDS flex cable that came with the panel, to interface with the JAE 30 connection on the board. We'll see what happens.........


So I guess the logical question is, what gauge of wire are standard LVDS cables made with?
HitesFiero
QUOTE (semose @ Aug 15 2007, 12:40 PM) *
So I guess the logical question is, what gauge of wire are standard LVDS cables made with?

Tiny, but solderalbe, if that's a word....
Durachko
HitesFiero: Maybe I'm missing something simple here (I usually am!) but to what do you attribute the noise since if I understand correctly the cable is normally not a bunch of twisted pairs but rather a simple flat ribbon cable??? huh.gif
HitesFiero
QUOTE (Durachko @ Aug 15 2007, 03:39 PM) *
HitesFiero: Maybe I'm missing something simple here (I usually am!) but to what do you attribute the noise since if I understand correctly the cable is normally not a bunch of twisted pairs but rather a simple flat ribbon cable??? huh.gif


They are supposed to be twisted on the A and B data channels. However the laptop LVDS flex cables are flat and use a very fine guage. I almost have the new cable fabbed so we'll see what happens.
fmerrill
Actually, the largest majority of LVDS cables are using twisted pairs, just like your cable is.
Any desktop monitor using an LVDS interface is most likely using a twisted pair cable, although some do use just FFC's for cables. I'm guessing the real issue here is that you are not getting as effective of noise cancellation, because most LVDS cables are not laid out flat like you have your's, but usually bundled tightly together, and then often covered with a cloth/metallic shielding tape.

You could simply try and shield the cable by tightly bundling them, and wrapping a small piece of aluminum foil around it that ends about 1/2 inch from each connector.

It's also very possible, since you used Cat5 twisted pairs, that the twists aren't tight enough. If they aren't, then you will get induced noise that the twisted pairs won't be able to prevent. My twisted pair LVDS cables have much tighter twists than any network cable does.

Also, most flat laptop cables actually do have a noise canceling twist. Sometimes it rather hard to see, but it's often accomplished on a printed cable by zigzagging the traces close to the connector. Some others (on Dells I have seen) use a very, very small coax for the data and clock pairs. It's hard to tell it is coax, since it is probably about 24 or 26 ga.

Now, the real question: Where is all that noise coming from? You shouldn't have enough of a noise issue with what you have to cause that type of interference.
My guess? Maybe that backlight inverter. It looks like you are using one from a laptop. It would normally be shielded to some degree, often by being mounted next to a metal shield on a lot of laptops.
Maybe tape that up and cover it with shielding and see what happens.
HitesFiero
QUOTE (fmerrill @ Aug 15 2007, 05:19 PM) *
Actually, the largest majority of LVDS cables are using twisted pairs, just like your cable is.
Any desktop monitor using an LVDS interface is most likely using a twisted pair cable, although some do use just FFC's for cables. I'm guessing the real issue here is that you are not getting as effective of noise cancellation, because most LVDS cables are not laid out flat like you have your's, but usually bundled tightly together, and then often covered with a cloth/metallic shielding tape.

You could simply try and shield the cable by tightly bundling them, and wrapping a small piece of aluminum foil around it that ends about 1/2 inch from each connector.

It's also very possible, since you used Cat5 twisted pairs, that the twists aren't tight enough. If they aren't, then you will get induced noise that the twisted pairs won't be able to prevent. My twisted pair LVDS cables have much tighter twists than any network cable does.

Also, most flat laptop cables actually do have a noise canceling twist. Sometimes it rather hard to see, but it's often accomplished on a printed cable by zigzagging the traces close to the connector. Some others (on Dells I have seen) use a very, very small coax for the data and clock pairs. It's hard to tell it is coax, since it is probably about 24 or 26 ga.

Now, the real question: Where is all that noise coming from? You shouldn't have enough of a noise issue with what you have to cause that type of interference.
My guess? Maybe that backlight inverter. It looks like you are using one from a laptop. It would normally be shielded to some degree, often by being mounted next to a metal shield on a lot of laptops.
Maybe tape that up and cover it with shielding and see what happens.


I'm thinking another posible cause might be ground noise or a ground "loop".
mac_angel
okay, I might be a bit confused, but you're having all this trouble for getting the cables to work on this. Do we all have to go through the same thing, modding cables, to use this controller for our own PJ builds?
heli0s
Hey all,
Quick question. Does anyone know if there's a difference using one of the 15.4 screens with a "glossy" surface rather than the usual matte anti-glare? I'm wondering if it would negate the need for anti-glare stripping.


thx
~heli0s
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