Well, I know this model has been invaluable in designing my projector, hopefully it'll help some other people. Believe me, it wasn't fun putting my calipers next to the various FFCs and stuff, but I did, so this thing is pretty darn accurate. By the way, the point in the model is the center of the VISABLE part of the LCD, NOT the center of the whole thing.

If you try it and it works, please post something here!

Here's how it should look...
Click to view attachment

There are 2 files in the downloadable zip: a dxf and a 3dm
The 3dm is a rhino3d file, which is what I modeled it in.
The dxf was exported from rhino, the units are millimeters. I had to export my surfaces as curves (lines)... sorry.

If anyone wants to add some surfaces in AutoCAD and send me the file I'll add it to the zip...

It works in Rhino for me.

Is it too much to ask to also get the locations of the mounting threads too in the model? (if the panel has mounting threads... if not, how do people mount them!)

Thanks! Stuff like this helps tremendousely!

There are mounting holes in the full panel, but the model above is for the LCD only (pretty much a piece of glass with electronic doo-dads hanging off) so no mounting holes.

I'm planning to glue mine on with heatsink sticky tape...

There is a pdf of the full LCD somewhere around here... lemme find it...

OK, so it's a jpg...

Yeah, Jonjandran provided that spec sheet to me. Its really helpful. So, I guess there is no way then to use the mounting holes in the metal frame? Cut a hole that spans the visible area? or would that create FFC issues if the metal frame was still on the LCD, but the circuit boards where somewhere else.

This all boils down to the fact that I have no idea what I am talking about, and really need to just buy a stupid LCD panel and rip it apart to understand how it works!

Hi Srinity

I have mounted my stripped LCDs back in their original metal/plastic frames and used the holes in them. So it is very possible and I believe it gives the LCD better support and protection.

For one of them I cut a hole in the back of the metal frame where the backlight used to be.

Cool! So it can be done.

Yeah, I would *think* that is the way you would want to do it, because then the lcd has support or something.

But cool, at least one other person is doing it, so I am not completely alone in my craziness

While the metal frame around the LCD fits, I found that there the bottom edge has to be flattened for the FFC's to the circuit board to fold away 90 degrees. Also, the frame's holes are such that I had to affix it with small brads.

I abandoned using the LCD frame and used 1" square wood as the frame and made it the exact size of the LCD glass on 3 sides. I made some relief cuts in the wood for the side FFC's. To hold the LCD panel, I used 1" x 1/16" flat aluminum stock from Home Depot. The flat, square edges allow making a straight exact offset "inwards" to the viewing area where the pixels are (about 2-3 mm). I clamped the aluminum to the wood frame and fasten it with 3/4" brads through 4-5 tiny holes I had pre-drilled in the aluminum. The LCD drops in precisely.

On the side with the FFC's and circuit board, I made a 1/4" slot at 90 degrees in the side pieces. I affixed the LCD circuit board to a length of 1/4" MDF that was placed across the slots.

Many ways to "skin that cat".

Hi Hirudin,

Just wanted to mention that I grabbed your zip file here and am using it in the PJ box-layout design/thing that I'm currently working on.

I'm using Solidworks, and it quite happily imported the dxf file, although for some reason it thought the units were in inches.. so you can imagine how insanely big the model came out there

In the import there's a little 'options' button where you can set the correct units for the model to be imported, once I figured that out, it came in as mm and fit in nicely. I whipped some panels over the faces, gave it some colour, and made the bottom control board a full 180degrees from the panel, instead of the 90, but that's it. The 90 didn't fit my design, it was trying to push through the front front fresnel, heh.

Anyway, kudos on taking the time to get it all drawn up so accurately, it'll come in very handy (I hope to build my frame for the LCD before it gets here, for example).

So cheers for that
Max