A place for my projector build. Sweet!

Mark I (below)

Mark II (below) with screenie and action shot

Mark III (in progress)

HTPlog for The Mastersuite Theater

This is the Plog for my ever so humble, straight shot plain vanilla Pro lens projector. It is going in the attic, so really the only things notable about this projector are:

1) Use of the Pro lens set with a 15" panel in order to get the long throw.
2) The need to manage the temperature of the projector even when not in use, since it is in the attic.
3) It is being built by someone who has used a circular saw about 3 times in his life and has never rewired anything 120V ever.

This afternoon was a trip to Lowes. Big sheet of MDF (hey, I know that means medium density fiber board now!) ... had them cut it for me for free ... SWEET. I now have the 4 long sides of my enclosure, although they are a bit long, and I will have to get the circular saw out. I also bought wood glue and angle/corner metal pieces. Between the fasterners and the glue, at least I know the box will be sturdy. That's a good start! Oh, and high temperature black spray paint.

I also spent the evening marking up the bottom side of the pj. Lamp filament, 220mm to first fresnel, etc. Should be easier tomorrow ... tracking says the 15" Eizo panel should be here along with my new bulb.

Parts list so far (to be edited as I go):

15" Eizo L365 LCD (DVI and VGA inputs)
Value Brand MH400/U Bulb (4 5/8" diameter geez)
Mogul/Core and Coil Ballast
Pro Lens Kit
Cabinet Grade Plywood/Interior Latex/Antique White

I just realized after hauling around the MDF I am going to use for my basic rectangular projector ... this stuff weighs a ton. And just now the DHL guy dropped off my ballast ... WOW ... anchors away!

I am beginning to wonder how heavy this whole contraption is going to be. I had read recommendations for 3/4" MDF, so I went with that, but I may have to reconsider and rebuild, or come up with a slimming design.

Bulbs.com psyched me out too. They used the same DHL tracking code on all three of my items, but the ballast was actually on a different tracking code, and it arrived this morning. I was getting upset that my whole order wasn't dropped off, but some sleuthing delivered the answer. Bulb and mogul arrive tomorrow.

Where did you get your ballast?

Lamp/mogul/ballast data ... all from bulbs.com :

The following items were included in this shipment:

MH400/U
Value Brand 400W Clear Universal Burning Position Metal Halide ED-37 Lamp with
Mogul Base, 4000K Cool White Color, and CRI=65. (diameter 4 5/8
SKU: VB-MH400/U/VB-MH400/U/MH400/U Quantity: 1
Price: 17.49

M0400-71C-212-K
Howard HID Core and Coil Ballast Kit* Ignites One 400 Watt Metal Halide (ANSI
Code M59) or 400 Watt Mercury Vapor (ANSI Code H33) Lamp of 120/208/240/277
Voltage. LAMP NOT INCLUDED
SKU: M0400-71C-212-K/M0400-71C-212-K/M0400-71C-212-K Quantity: 1 Price:
82.99

Pulse Rated Mogul Socket
Value Brand Pulse Rated Mogul Base Socket for Metal Halide Lamps.
SKU: L8751/L8751/Pulse Rated Mogul Socket Quantity: 1 Price: 7.99

Subtotal: $108.47
Tax: $0.00
Shipping & Handling: $7.90
Sale Amount: $116.37

Been thinking about this attic installation. I really need to bring my ambient temperature down in my attic without skyrocketing my enormous electricity bills. I did find this as an answer, so it is back to the hardware store, and a little help from the oldest son ... the electrician.

DIY Attic Fan

Well, the 15" Eizo panel is here, and I plugged it in to watch some Gladiator on it driven by the Dell Inspiron 9300. It was adequate... not great, but good. Of course, all day long I stare at a Dell 2001FP, which is certainly a superior panel (it is my company's).

The adjustment menu on the Eizo was a little strange, but it seems VERY robust. I adjusted the color temp and it tuned up nicely. I did notice, though, that it was much brighter looking down at it from above centerline, and it faded fast below centerline. Interesting...

way to go! ill be watching!

Thankfully viewing angles wont translate out to the screen heh. Good luck

Well, a busy night for sure. The panel is stripped!! I didn't have the heart to see if it still worked, but nothing shredded or broke or scratched.

And, as luck would have it, I believe I have also found my reflector, and it seems to have just the right focal point (spherical center). My wife is sacrificing her ice cream scoop. Go wifey!

Seriously, though, it appears to be an almost perfect cross section of a sphere of about a 3.5" radius. With a 4 5/8" bulb diameter, I should be able to get this to work.

Do you ever find yourself just staring and staring at your marked up MDF wondering 1) is it really going to be that ugly and 2) can I really make those cuts? LOL

If I had the skill (and maybe I do) and the tools (and maybe I can afford them), what I would really like the end product to look like is more like this... more of a Star Destroyer/Executor kind of look. Lots of angled cuts and geometry to figure out, though.

Look for Joe's Bakery box or something similar.

Yep, I was looking at that. I have a 15" lcd with a pro lens, so dimensions will be a little different, but I totally agree.... the bakery box is nice.

Why are you concerned with the "looks" of it? Or are you tapering the sides to cut down on the weight of it? Hate to be laying in bed and have a 40# PJ falling on ya?

LOL Weight is a bit of an issue, yes. If it is hung over the bed, it could be intimidating. Also, if it is hung from an 8ft ceiling, and the lens segment is 18" tall (16" fresnel uncut + exterior), then there is not much clearance once it is dropped down a smidge and tilted toward the screen.

If I do get it up in the attic, then weight again is a bit of an issue in terms of ease of adjustment and lifting, plus not wanting too heavy of stuff up in that area of the ceiling. Also, angling down to shoot through the hole in the tray ceiling might be easier with a narrower nose cone.

Of course, the real reason is I want to end up with something cool looking.

-----

The bulb just got here. OMG, what a pigskin. And, I am not sure of the arc length either. Seems awfully spread out, but you can't beat the price for a starter set of stuff. I tested the reflector scoop ... looks like a great fit.

------

Things around the house and in stores take on a whole new look when you are in DIY mode. Note the trash can that would make a great stainless steel PJ enclosure.

Very productive day! I believe I have my basic box enclosure done for my projector. The longs cuts were already done for free at Home Depot, but several clean up cuts had to be made. I feel pretty good I got em this close. Maybe tomorrow I can mark out the electronics. I plan to disassemble, paint and glue/reassemble, but first I need to make some cuts for fans, etc. I also need to get a set of good clamps from the store.

Well, started my electronics today. I spent the day picking the pieces to string together for the 120v and 12v subsystems. I raided an older PC psu for a power input and a 12v fan. I lined up my 12v powerbrick (.58 Amps to drive 2 or 3 .15 amp fans), snagged an electrical plug and a few twist caps for the wiring, and got my bulb mounted.

Now, of course I have to decide where to put all that stuff. I am going to read up a bit momre about optimum placement, but it just seems like the more you can put outside the lightbox, the better.

More electronics planning and focus issues:

Well, I kinda sorta built my lens box-in-box yesterday. It will work, but not sure how pretty it is. I suppose I can always switch it out later. BUT, I did come up with an idea for focusing. I have this RC Car ... it has steering and acceleration, two remote controlled motors ... pivot and turning. Sounds ready made for fresnel/keystone adjustment and electronic focus knob, eh? We shall see. First to get it working manually, then we upgrade.

I talked with my electrician son about paying for some of his time to put in the attic fans and the power/control wiring for the attic, as well as wiring around the house for cable and internet. Might be better than fried attic Dad.

Last night was electronics night. My oldest stepson dropped me off in Conyers, about 15 min away, at the Home Depot, and my wife joined me there about a half hour later for our "date night". She LOVES ranging around that store getting all bug-eyed with possibilities.

I picked up almost all of my remaining hardware and electronics. Wire, connectors, thermostat, flashing and Lexan. I couldn't find the Lexan scoring tool. I may have to make do or look elsewhere. I also couldn't find an inline fuse holder *boggle*. What a simple thing for them not to have. I think I will raid my boat for one until I get over to Wal-Mart.

And for the curious, dinner and beers at Ruby Tuesdays was also involved.

I also found some interesting options for modifying my attic to hold the projector, but I think I will drop that in my HTPlog. I would have more pics, btw, but my youngest stepson has the digital camera with him out hunting until Saturday.

I should be able to sit down and wire this puppy tonight. Maybe even fire up the bulb! Wish me luck.

ZZZAAAAAPPPP!!!

Wish I was that lucky. My wife rolls her eyes every time I mention any kind of
electronic or hardware store.



Yeah, I couldn't find one either. Eventually went to the evil Radio Shack and got one
just because I didn't want to try to rip apart anything else.



It's good to see you moving along with this. I'm really curious to see how it turns out.
I can't wait to get the LCD for mine. It always takes so long when you're excited.

Good luck firing it up!

I modified the wiring diagram found elsewhere on this site to account for the X10 modules I want to use to start and stop the projector. I am going to use two modules both set to the same channel, which should give me the same effect as a DPST switch. I want the LCD and Lamp to come on at the same time, and I want the fans to run until full cool down, even after the X10 shut off signal is sent. I plan to run the power lines from the input jack to a standard two socket electrical box, and the X10 modules will plug in there. I will use a standard three and two prong set of plugs to wire in the other elements past there.

I am pretty sure this will work as intended, but anyone's comments are welcome.

I am not using the LL ballast and bulb, but you get the idea here.

Thanks, Vonn! Heh, maybe you don't want to wish that. I find my trips are twice as expensive when she comes along. "Oooo I need this paint, and this brush, and wow ... what a great floor scrubber ..."

I used a good blade in my jigsaw on lowest speed to cut lexan. Worked great.

Oh? I assume you taped it up on both sides first? Or not?

Hmm can't stop tinkering with the design. I think I am going to put in both X10 and a DPST switch. that way I can still make it all work when not in the presence of the X10 base station or modules or for testing.

SPHINCTER TIME! I just put warm, wet paper towels over my anti-glare using Conker's pics as a guide. Man, hope to goodness it works. Going to try and lift the AG at 5:30pm ET

WOOHOO! While I was waiting out the soak time, I fired up my bulb ... and it was good!

... and AG is now history! double goodness!

Burn in was definitely successful. Well, at least my retinas are burned in. I am sure the lamp will take many more hours to settle down. That sucker gets way hot too ... definitely going to have to work the heat issue.

So, my next steps are:

1) Build frames for lenses and panel, cut lexan.
2) Install cooling fans and confirm heat removal.
3) Pre-install ballast, capacitor, 12v PSU, DPST switch, standard three-prong dual socket, and exterior socket, thermostat.
4) Route wiring and shield.
5) Confirm light path clear.
6 Uninstall all, paint black, reinstall and wood glue enclosure.
6) Perform inital heat measurements with case closed and address issues.
7) Wait for pro lenses.

A little out of sequence, but I cut holes for my fans and for my power plug. I tried for my switch, but dagnabit if it isn't long enough for 3/4" MDF. Just going to leave it alone for now. I won't need a switch in the long run.

I also now have built my entire circuit. Thermostat works to keep fans on, lights work, all is good. Maybe tomorrow I can build some lens and panel frames.

Phew... busy day. All the electronics and wiring are in place, except for the panel mounting. Tomorrow, I will begin to make the frames for the fresnels and the panel.

Well, no progress right now. I had to dash out of town. My stepfather has had a heartattack/stroke, and my mother and I are just waiting. He is not expected to live.

Well, I was back on the build today (Saturday), and my pro kit came in! My mailman, Lyle, dropped off the lenses at the door, since he knew I would be fired up about it. This is a great neighborhood ... very Mayberry. lol

My plan has been not to cut the fresnels, even though my panel is a 15". I am not sure how well that will work out yet, but we shall see. I completed the lamp side lexan+fresnel frame, and it looks good and centered, though I have to get it mounted in the box.

I routed out a frame for the rear fresnel as well. It is an U shape for the fresnel to slide into, and I am working on a near-central pivot point for keystone correction. My wire routing is proving challenging with that moving frame.

Maybe tomorrow I might actually have an image.

Woohooo!! While not finished, I can show off progress. Lookie lookie! I wrote on the inside of a large zip-loc bag and hung it where the lcd panel will go. I have the uncut fresnels in place and centered, and the pro lens installed. I am not using a reflector yet, and the garage light is on, the top is off and the flash in use on the digital camera. But, it is still a good contrast, clear picture.

Now, you can see from the last picture that I may have not correctly calculated the best focus position for my lens. It has to slide pretty far in to get a solid picture. I am going to have to make some adjustments for sure.

Still, it is nice to see a bright, focused image. I am beat like a drum though, so I am counting my winnings and heading for bed soon.

Well hell. I hooked up my panel for the first time since I stripped it out, and no joy. I am pretty sure I have the FFC extension correctly making connections and the other connectors back where they should go. I get no response from the panel, though I get the appropriate lights from the control strip (blue LED).

My three areas of possible problems that I can see:

1) It will not function without grounding on all the PCB's. Pain in the ***.
2) It will not function without the backlight circuitry plugged in to the driver board with it's FFC. I currently have it unconnected.
3) I am getting some kind of signal or power shorting. I removed the panel from the metal backlight frame, and still no image.

Anyone with thoughts on how to make this thing fire up?

Eizo 15" L365

Unfortunately I have no knowledge whatsoever about that panel, but I was really
happy to see that your projector box was completed to the point of projecting
something. I hope that you get that worked out, because I'm definitely
rooting for your project.

Here are a few "in progress" pics of my LCD strip.

another

After much searching and cursing, I found the culprit. A capacitor had ripped up off the PCB of the driver board! I taped it down making good contact, and the panel WORKS! Yay.

Bad: Capacitor ripped off the board completely.

Good: Position of the component was amenable to a temporary fix (soldering to come later).

Note the wire attached to the hole, crossing the contact of the cap then connecting it to the resistor. Man, what a total PITA.

At first I was thinking, "Man, what hack job." Then I got to thinking ... MDF dog coffin, stripped panel, warehouse light, used pc fans ... the whole damn thing is a DIY hack job. LOL

Hooray!! I got the projector up and video playing!!!

Now, that said, it is not the brightest kid in the classroom, but it appears to be focused, and it is very enjoyable. I have no reflector in currently, and my front fresnel is about 4 inches from the lcd, which I would imagine is contributing to some issues. The circuit boards for the panel stick out perpendicular to the panel surface, and I have not cut my front fresnel yet.

Two big issues came up tonight. First, while XBox games looked great (but dim), when I tried to play a DVD, the lcd wouldn't take it. I plugged in a 17" CRT monitor to debug the situation, but it wouldn't play there either. I have an X2VGA that has worked great for gaming on a monitor before ... but now that I think of it, I guess I never thought to try it on a DVD. Going to have to research that one.

The other issue was with my digital camera. I think I saw a post on the best way to take pics of screen images, so I will research that as well. The ones I took tonight look silly bad.

One real joy was projecting a Hubble photo of the Andromeda Galaxy. Excellent contrast test and it took my breath away. The image is too big to attach though.

xbox1?
and is it modded or unmodded?
If it'a not modded, then I would think to check your video settings in the dashboard.
If it's modded, the bios might be forcing the dvd player to go into progressive mode...
I'm not sure how either of those things could actually be a problem....But it's the first thing that came to my head...

Thanks, Limb. I did some research, and from what I can tell an un-modded xbox with the original x2vga will not play DVD movies in anything but 480i, which my monitor seems to handle poorly.

Which leaves me with a few choices:

1) Mod my xbox (woot project!) and run XBMC.
2) Buy a nice DVD player with VGA or DVI output (and therefore something to switch between DVI inputs from the cable box).
3) Take one of my pc's (or a new one) and scale it up to a good media box.

I tell ya, PowerDVD drove a pretty good show last night.

Left to do:

1) Rework my wiring to make my the transit from front to back easier for power to the lamp and to the fans.
2) Improve airflow
3) Build permanent frame for front fresnel.
4) Build light mask for rear fresnel/lexan frame.
5) Totally rework my brutally painful focusing mechanism and remote motorized control.
6) Build an electronics tray for LCD circuit boards and bezel in the box outside to accept LCD control strip.
7) Work with arcane Eizo control menu to eliminate signal timeout.
8) Build remote circuit for Eizo control strip.
9) Find a suitable reflector with r = 3.5 to 4 inches and a diameter of around 5 inches.
10) Find and install temperature gauge.
11) Tear it all apart, flash and paint, then put it all back together and tune.
12) Build and paint wall-mounted screen.
13) Start attic installation process and home theater buildout after break-in period.

One concern I noted last night was that my width may be too big for the throw from the ceiling. I pretty much had the lens right at the distance I expect it to be in the attic, and the image stretched from door frame to door frame (minus one or two inches). Given that the diagonal travel of the light at a 20 degree offset will be even greater, the image will likely be TOO BIG at that distance. Going to have to think that through. So close.

As I said earlier, my image capturing skills with the digital camera pretty much bite. I am going to have to figure out the low light settings better, because the screen looked a ton better than this. But at least it is "proof of life".

Oh, and projected on a bed sheet hung on the wall. hehe Tan one at that ... no white sheets in this house! weird...

More experimentation last night. I hooked up a PC with DVD player as my movie source. I had a copy of WinDVD around, so I loaded that, though I sense it is an older version. If my cable hadn't gone out (sigh Charter), I would have looked around for some more codecs. I also have PowerDVD sitting here, so I might load that as well. It's a long road to the perfect PC DVD system.

The good news is that I had a GREAT picture last night. I installed the ice cream scoop reflector, and oh what a difference it makes. It probably needs a good polishing, and a much better installation method, but it was a great proof of concept. Please note that it is the camera making the scoop look off-center. It is carefully adjusted in real life.

I installed it using a stand built from a coat hanger for ease of positioning. I had already marked out the arc needing coverage for a 15" panel, and I placed it accordingly. Nice thing was, it was all done and warmed up JUST as the brother-in-law showed up, which is always a bonus.

Oh, one other tweak. The bulb I am using has a long metal pole that crosses the arc gap. I had that blocking light to the left side of my panel last night. Quick twist ... super tweak!

I still have some upside to gain in brightness. Polishing the reflector and building a high gain screen. At this point, I believe I will build a light fusion wall hanging screen from a wood frame and stretched fabric. I am not sure of the fabric yet, though. I also may stretch the fabric over an acrylic mirror before painting ... or paint right on the mirror. We shall see. The tan sheet is definitely going to have to go.

I watched a bit of Star Wars (you know, the real one), and it felt just like being at the movies. Nice feeling too.

I am, however, beginning to lose WAF, though. The box is ugly and consumes the middle of the room. I will need to either a) complete my ceiling installation after resolving image size issues and cooling or redesign and rebuild the containment to be more attractive.

Woot, finally got a decent capture of what I am getting out as a projection!

Enjoy!

very nice! good work there ..........i finally get to fire mine up tonight(hope it looks that good!)

in the picture on this reply it looks like the LCD has exactly the same fcc setup as my NEC 1560m. What did you do about it?
here is mine. looks the same

Wow, that DOES look the same. I extended mine with the 16pin 0.5mm pitch extender I ordered from LL when I got my lenses. It did the trick!

Thanks, no wonder no one is answering my question. LL sells what i need.

Just one 6" extention did the trick? My LCD's ffc looks almost identicle to your picture, but it seems a little short; If it were just 2 inches longer, the stress on the wiring would be greatly reduced.
Cheers!

Fulcrum