I shouldn't have, but I ended up buying this in an Ebay auction. I just threw a offer in and the guy accepted! Anyways, could someone help me determine/source a ballast for it?



Specifications


I know, more wasted money, but perhaps I can remove the reflector?

Actually, I tried getting one a while back. I think it would work very well for a small lcd, maybe up to a 8" max. But it would be a bright picture if you get it to work. HPS 150w ballast should work ok.

Would you try it with the reflector attached? I don't even know if I could remove it... I wonder what the light cone is like?

Yes, I would leave it on. It is actually set up that way. I had one very similar to it using the mr16 for an overhead. Those are halogen, and I had like 100-150 lumens. This should give you on a 6" lcd, approx 200-250 lumens. You get the most light to the lcd with this reflector.

How does the light exit the reflector?

Does it spread outwards?

Does it cone inwards and cross like an elliptical?

Or does it collimate, like a parabolic?

The one plus, is that that reflector should be setup to capture more light than I could capture with a DIY reflector.

M81 ballast with high current protection. I think it's an ellipsoidal with the F2 point 75 mm from the face that focuses down to a circle
around 25mm in diameter. Commonly used in fiber optic illuminators.

THanks! Where did you get the M81 ballast info and... how do I ensure it has high current protection?

Also, if it is elliptical, then I should just be able to place a fresnel some distance in front right? I wonder if it would have the dark middle problem like the parabolic did?

Got the M81 info from Philips last October. Sorry, don't know about high current protection.

It should work just fine with the reflector a 330mm fresnel should be OK you will have to see the light cone for your self as to how large a panel it will cover. If you nees the pattern then run a longer fresnel.

This will be brighter than the condenser setups the others guys are doing but if it a true ellipical then you may have a slight hot spot.

Welcome back.

The megawatt PJ has been started

The right ballast is the M81

The M102 looks to be about same if the lamp is the 1.8A 95v one.

I don't know why, but I am scared of the coil and caps ballasts. Could I just use a 150W Metal Halide Electronic Ballast? Also, I can't readily source a M81 ballast. Well, I guess I could call a local Electrical Supply store... perhaps I should just do that. Seems more intimidating than the EBallast though.

I *think* this is a suitable ballast.
http://www.hellolights.com/aroba15mh.html

I was thinking this was more toward the CMD-T T6 lamp with a reflector added... that lamp uses an M142 ballast... often sold as M102/M142... JMHO.

cheers,
gs

heres the pdf:
http://www.nam.lighting.philips.com/us/eca.../pdf/p-5491.pdf
I think its just the 6mm version of elkens lamp , needs an ignitor, so a 150w hps ballast should do it... looks parabolic to me though, asked elken , he thinks it may be parabolic also...would that work to the rear fresnel since a para puts out collimated lght?

edit: well dazz thinks its not parabolic, but it may be an elliptical or hyperbolic... guess youll have to test it and see...what price did you get on it?

Lucky,

Can you tell if the reflector is dichroic? The pdf doesn't mention that.

I believe it's dichroic, but I know no more than you guys. The seller knows nothing about the lamp, I bought it for $40 and then a whopping $25 to ship to Canada. I think I am going to try a 150W Electronic Ballast. Should I be looking for HPS or Metal Halide, or does it even matter?

So much for testing out this lamp. I killed it.

I went out to buy a 150W electronic ballast from an Aquatics store and the only 150W they had was labelled 120-175W. It did say 150W on the box, but it had 175W as part of the model number. Anyways, they said it was a 150W and the 175W'ers look different. I wanted to believe them because I wanted to try the bulb. Anyways, it worked for about 5 minutes, then it went "pop".

All I can say is damn.

I guess there is a chance the bulb was damaged in shipment? If my ballast was a 175W ballast, would it really kill the lamp?

What's the make and model number of the ballast you purchased?

This is the culprit right here.


#1710 - 150W Electronic Ballast?

I guess it really is a 175W, says so right on the ballast. It's my own fault.

lucky,, the real problem was the ballast is for 130 VOLT lamps,, these are 96 100 volt lamps,,,,

yes that is a 175 watt,, but it delivers 195 watts with a 130 volt/ 1.5 amp

the lamp suffered more than 30% overdrive in voltage, which is way over spec

these CDM's draw about 30% higer current during first 2-3 mins of runup and that is at correct voltage level, with a voltage thats already 30% higher,, the effective current would have been real high, and after runup the voltage was still high and current,,, the lamps nominal current draw is 1.82amps,, so even after runup it would have setteled around 236 watts,,,, way too high

It'a my fault because those were my thoughts when I read the label at the store. I guess I was just impatient. Thanks for the reply, I kind of needed the validation (or invalidation ). But I am kind of confused because I thought the Electronic Ballast regulated... Ok, I'll stop right here.

Does an electronic ballast only regulate total wattage? Does it not regulate voltage at all?

look all these things are confusing,, thats why when I look at lamps and ballasts I check the actual lamp specs and ballast specs,, not all of them show these things..

anyhow,, the ballast was throwing 130 volts at a lamp that is 96 volt rated

all my tests over eballasts and maggie ballasts showed startup low voltage high current, then the volts rose, while current settled back to its rating..

ARIZ,, can you add to this,, youv'e samo measurements as I have too..

Thats why I have been pleading when asked what ballast to get for the CDM's,,,

That it must be a 100 volt, at somewhere between 1.8 to even 2 amp, but no more than 2.5 amp

Was it the lamp that went pop or the eballast? Does the lamp look broken or discoloured? maybe it was a fuse in the ballast?

The ballast says it is to be used with lamps that are rated 130V and 1.5 A.
The CDM tries to use 1.8 A maybe the ballast couldn't supply the necessary current. Also the CDM only wants 100V not 130V.

I have tried a 250W eballast on a 250W UHP lamp from China and it worked for a minute or two with some flickering then just stopped. The lamp was very discoloured after that.

Edit: looks like Elken beat me to it.

the 175 watt family is an oddball group of lamps, they for some reason use 130 volt ratings and yet the 250 watt ballasts generally are 100 volts bar two or three, which Venture and Iwasaki make as 130 volters

Well, I will be more careful from now on. If anything this is a lesson for everyone, my risky behaviour cost me a hard to find, expensive lamp. I'm just glad to have someone help me determine the exact reason for this lamp/ballast combo failing. It gives me a more solid conclusion. Now to take the ballast back, they did say I could return it if it ruined my bulb.

This scenario was very similiar.

First I turned on the light and I was thinking, gee a 150W sure isn't that bright (compared to a 400W). Then I thought I'll let it warm up. Gradually it got brighter, as it was doing so it was flickering a bit which made me think I hope I don't have this problem with this lamp too. Then it just stabilized, fairly bright, nice white light and then a minute later "pop". I'm sure it was from the lamp, either way the lamp itself is very discoloured and the ballast acts the same way with the light plugged in and with it unplugged. It just ticks (I think it is attempting to send high voltage through an open circuit).

I'm going to go and see if I can get my money back now.

hey lucky, still got the burned out lamp? did the refelctor get damaged? if not I'll pay for shipping, I'd like to try cutting the bulb out and retrofitting another lamp into it...

I still have it... I was thinking of doing the same thing myself, but I am slow moving. Let me think about it.

okie dokie, just let me know...

If you want it it's yours, $15 shipped.

oops. sorry I missed this post..... if you still want to ship it let me know, paypal ok? PM me... thanks!