I think the other thing arizona did was use a large reflector. I tried the 6x9, but wasn't nearly as happy with it as the 4.5x6.5 due to corner brightness/color issues... the big difference is the reflector... I was using the pro reflector which is not large enough to cover the necessary FOV of the precondenser... that's when I pretty much gave up on the 6x9 for now... i'd need a new reflector to move ahead with it... ho hum...

i'd be intested to see the differences between the 0.5/0.2 and 0.2/0.2 setup... you might actually be better with what you have 0.5/0.2... this gives the best of both worlds ?? ... better light collection on the collimating side (0.5) and better definition on the field side (0.2) ??

no critism on the picture taking. ... once you go to the pro triplet though, you'll be changing to the 650 fresnel, so most of these tests with the 330 field will be out the window anyway... I was just curious is all...

gs

ahhh but in the store here is

550mm .2mm
650mm .5mm aka 600mm
330mm .2mm
220mm .2mm
220mm .5mm
330mm .5mm

plenty of playgirls to mess with,,, oops playthings

its unforntunate that my PRO reflector died ahorrible death by HQI cooking in the uppie downie,, but she did,, so need that to complete to whole formula,, cause I think she would do well with this cool baby of mine

ohh PS slings and arrows,, nah no harmism's done so ever what heheheheh


ohhh PSS,, I am gonna do splittism's and unsplittism's and some not even invented yet too,,, name ya poison,,, mine preferably single malt whiskey up straight,,, do not shake please

ohhh and PSSS,, I will flip combo so 3d .2mm pictch is light collector too,, dont fuss pic's will be fully incorperated too,, I do have to work and earn money whilst bien obssssssssssssed with this bloody,,, DIY stufff grrrr is there an aaa for DIYer's... helpppppppppp

Thanks very much for your continued efforts on this, elken!

awwww shucks crushism,,,, gee tanks, a million hehehhehe

Vossloh Schwabe
150w 1.8 amp 100 volt
has 230 and 240 volts input too

the model of ballast euro/aussie 240/230 version

Click to view attachment

Elken,
What is the lamp base that is seen in your image above ?, can you even use such thing in a projector while using a reflector ?.

What is the lamp base which is shown below, just something you improvised ?,

AWSOME!

Cheers elken

jones,, they were contacts from dead photo copier

Elken,
Is there a 6 digit item number for the assembly ? ... or for each of the 3 main components (choke/ballast, ignitor, capacitor) ?

This would be great information for us here in the US.

cheers,
gs

What would be best is if he took a close up picture of each item so that we can see the text ourselves.

yup that would work. there may be a number for the entire assembly, in addition to the individual components, so that would really be all that is needed... ( I think... ) ... and I shouldn't forget it would help our friends in canada as well

Here's a link that talks about how to use a camera light meter or a hand held photographic light meter and then convert the results to LUX. Might help out to compare pj's for people that don't have lux meters.

http://www.cctvlabs.com/TestChart/measurin...llumination.pdf

I want to add something to the mix when we talk about what
colors we see. In the perception of color, chromatic adaptation
is a psychological condition that also plays an important role.
Color adaptation is a rebalancing of the color response of the
eye as the spectral composition of the scene changes.
The brain is constantly working to process the information
fed to it by our eyes. Sometimes the brain needs to "massage"
the data; without this ability, most of the light sources we work
and play under could quite possibly make most of us ill. Take for
example fluorescent lights; to the eye, a room illuminated by cool
white fluorescent lights appears white, however, a photograph
taken in the same room reveals a green glow.

After a very short period of time ( 5 to 10 sec ) our brain will
change the colors we are seeing to make them appear more like
what we think we should see. The best way to combat this is to take
a few seconds and look outside in sun light, let our eyes adjust,
then quickly look at the projected image and decide if there is
a color shift.

Ok,,, now some light is starting to come thru,,,

another clue,, if you are serious aboutgetting correct adjustments

but yourself a copy of a dvd called DIGITAL VIDEO ESSENTIALS,

I have not used it yet even tho I bought last year,, but if you sit thru all of the very detailed instructions , it will teach you what and how and where to do correct video adjustments, and especially covers getting true greyscale, irrespective of your light source.

it also provides you with extremely detailed tests to get true colour rendition on your display,, with proper calibrations for contrast/brightness/saturation/hue/sharpness/ and RGB levels..

another point about colour temp Kelvin

every industry works on a different range,, and TV has evolved over the years with difffernent standards too, and they have pushed the blue end of the temp range, because it suits them,, all display units on sale in showrooms are driven over at a high temp range, because it looks better than a correctly adjusted one, much in the same way they use a particular MH lamp for butchers, to highlight the false red colour of meat..

so dont think that 6500k is the perfect temp,,, it isnt,, it has all been driven by marketing, to a large degree

the reason 6500 was choosen is because in the early days screens were, dimmer, and the blue end was bright, so hence it is a relic of our past,, you can achieve correct greys at several points on the Kelvin,,, the trick is you have to know what to adjust WHERE,, and when..

its not just a simple bright/contrast/saturation set of adjusts,,,, to get right balance,,,

now I am not accurate on the next point but it is indictative only

but TV is driven or used to be driven towards 6500,, more so now at 5400,, ,most film makers use temps of around 4200k etc,, so its the media you have to look at and how it relates to what you are using etc..

now lets take an LCD monitor,, its backlight is tuned for max brightness according to that formula, it is best at 6500k because of its backlight,, and for its orignal use, which is purely a computer display this works fine,,, ahhh but introduce a different source media,,,, MOVIES,, have you not wondered why they are dimmer than everything else, apart from the fact they have millions of complex colour mixes over a PC screen,, they are based on a different temp scale

however what I have stated is really much much more complex than the simple description i have put up

House,,, yep,,, hehehe contrast to 100% is very interesting,, did that myself on this panel.. but did not adjust the green as low as you,,, different panels different CF filters different lamps,,, 'different strokes different folks'

just as PS

tonight i watched a dvd,, Flight plan,, good movie,,and had a lot of darkish scenes too,,, I did not feel I wantd to strain to see,, the whole movie comfortable to watch,, did not even think at any point ahhrr, needs to be this or that or anything,,,, just plain good

Yes, Color is very complex. Its also very subjective, what looks good to one of us won't look good to the other.

Theres no holy grail for color for our projectors. Different LCD panels produce colors in different ways.

Some panels when the can't produce a certian color directly they will actually interpolate color by flashing adjacent pixels in different colors to fool our eyes into seeing the color they can't directly produce.

Theres no perfect kelvin temperature that will work for all of us, there are to many variables, including the screen we project on.

I do think that the optics can be some what standardized, focal lenghts, triplet's, ETC, if were using the same size LCD panel and same bulb.

Elken you do great work, and have a indepth understanding of the issues were dealing with.

PRAISE to you for your efforts.

I have both the AVIA DVD and Joe Kane's DVD, I like the AVIA better but both do a great job of helping one get there system adjusted both audio and video. Just remember any time you change anything you need to do it again.

Yes, a calibration DVD such as DVE is good to have.

One thing about the Digital Video Essentials is that they don't cover RGB calibration too well... only that you need either expensive equipment or a grey card and experience... I found this section to be of the most value to us, but lacking the most information wise. (IMHO) They do a good job explaining D65 and how it came about into becoming the standard... brightness, as you've said, was the main issue...

One thing they did mention was that in LCD technology, sometimes it is impossible to get colors to be "entirely" correct... I guess this was due to the control circuitry, lightsource, etc... they said in order to correct the problem it would be necessary to get a new LCD ! ... of course for us we can change the backlight temperature...

Also saturation, hue and sharpness are typical TV settings that don't translate well to the OSD of LCD panels... although you'll find saturation and hue in video drivers for graphics cards under video settings... I think sharpness was really only applicable to TV if I remember correctly...

gs

How much does the setup that you have cost? I will wait and see your results with the pro lenses before getting a light source.

Could be this one: http://www.vossloh-schwabe.com/usa/products/150W/square.php
What do you think of this one? http://www.vossloh-schwabe.com/usa/products/150W/slim.php

However, I can't seem to find amp or volt ratings on either of those.

Or a place to purchase them...

I've done a little searching and have yet to find a US supplier of this lamp. Anybody know a reliable lighting sight that carries this lamp?

http://bulbster.com/zcart/index.php?main_p...roducts_id=4559

The same lamp made by USHIO.

I will be setting up to make these available, I will also research a USA version type ballast too

The Venture 150 watt PS lamp is also a 95v 1.8A lamp and runs on this ballast

http://www.venturelighting.com/VLPS/Ballas...MH/V90J7110.pdf

I don't see why it would not work.

That would be a M102

One more player has arrived on the field of play.

Click to view attachment

PJ 8mg, that's not going to be very bright

DJ

edit:
Oh you mean the lamp

The real question is which is the biggest killer ??

So is it in the projector yet?
Why are we waiting?
Come on!

cause I am elswhere entering info and pics.. need to have a good set of documentation on this all

This seller has a large selection of lamps at fair prices. I'm not sure which one you're interested in, try sending him an email if you don't
see what you're looking for listed.

http://stores.ebay.com/All-About-Bulbs

Edit - more places that sell Philips CDM lamps. Watch the part numbers closely, some are deceptively similar.

http://www.bulbconnection.com/ViewSitemapC.../MHLD/item.html
http://www.saveonlighting.com/subcat-high_...etal_halide.htm
http://www.productionadvantageonline.com/lamps.htm

The pdfs for the various Philips lamps are here.
http://www.nam.lighting.philips.com/us/ecatalog/hid/
and
http://www.nam.lighting.philips.com/us/ecatalog/tds.php

Can you tell us the name of the lamp/model number/ picture of the box?

Pretty please!

Due to picture, it's probably Osram Powerball 150/942 (G12 version).

I agree it is what it looks like but Elken said it is brand new and has better specs, smaller arc etc.
I have the Osram Powerball 150/942 (double end Rx7s-24 version), so I am interested if there is something better or I should just stick with what I've got.

In the picture the return wire has a bend in it around the ceramic chamber. I haven't seen this in other pics of the G12 version.

sorry guys,,, been watching a dvd,, back to the future third one,,

its funny my son who is sick of me asking what do you think,, mad e a statement near the end of movie, that this is the best he has seen it on all of my previous efforts,,, believe me, that was such a rewarding comment,, hehehhehe, he said it was brighter clearer and so good,,,

one thing I noticed, is that all the sky shots with blue sky and clouds did not saturate away,, they had clear definition and were in balance,,, and I have yet to run the full Digital Video Essentials tests and patterns and adjustment procedures too,, I know when i apply all of this it will improve even further,,, damn and now I am gonna start all over with a G12 lamp,,,, what irony

I have same effect on my brother too. lol We're waiting your results-pictures eagerly.

Gee..while we all have been waiting eyes glues to the thread...you have feet up relaxx-ating watching a DVD...huh

Praise indeed from your son..it sounds very good...

wish I could see it...you know perhaps we should have an aussie DIY projector convention...all bring their projectors then we might see what everyone is talking about.

another item I aquired today was the holy grail,, a reference book for every brand of lamp and ballast and capacitor values and complete specs on most common lamps,, those specs that are never listed,,, a real pot of gold.. will have to digest this book,, so much info

ohh dear then we have to wear our futuristic uniforms, and try to beam people out heheheheh,,, "just step into our light transporter beam"

DAZZLERS better get 10 dozen prawns flown in from the gulf again !!!!!


aww geez sorry guys,,,, I almost dont power up my 80cm wide screen anymore, i watch my PJ for everything,, TV/news/dvd's even play pink floyd music with wall size media centre trippy patterns

Pink Floyd? I now suspect - based on recent clues - that elkee and Razzle-DAZZZLA are actually the same person. Anyone care to fly down-under for verification? If you really can transmogrify me down there I'll send ya my GPS coordinates toot-sweet. I'm in the mood for some shrimp-on-the-barby. Besides, I wanna see a projector in person finally. Mine ain't goin' nowhere in a hurry.

looking to my left,, I am heard to say,,, DAZZ our secret is out,,,, quick four more dozen shrimpies.....

ok here are two more shots fresh out of the oven,,,,

Click to view attachment
this shot is with kitchen lights on,, plenty to read by in lounge
umm 1 second exposure kinda overdid it,,,

Click to view attachment
this shot is with three by 60 watts lights on right in front of screen,,, ummm obvious heheheheh
fully auto shot shot,, no time exposure

but I like this shot because Micheal J is saying you think you have a screen,,,, well check out this one !!!!

Hey Big "D" you are smarter than the rest of us,, you just sitting waiting for all the best of the best then you'll make the biggest and best of the best,,, heheheheh, and get the shrimps on the barbie to boot too...

has dazzz sent over his light meter yet? hey is that you light fusion screen or dalite or ?

it was a light fusion,, but in move got scuffed,, so just rolled a solid coat of same mix overit,, twas too busy building mark xxxx PJ's and playing polar bears and lamp spectrums etc etc,,, one day will get back to screen issues,,, I am just watching and waiting to see new improvements,,, or if case need be will just relent and a dalite,, as so far they seem to be pretty good... but anyways,, we shall see,, these 150's have thrown me a curved ball,, more distractions,,,,

holy smokes was trying figure out how old this 150 is,,,, gawd only from july 28,,, feels like 6 months ago,,,, and she is getting good with her young age too

ohhh a PS too,, that sceen in pic is just as white in real life too,,, sitting looking this CRT, then walking in there,, yep just as white,,, so no time to adjust,,, thats the best guide,,, because it is true that your mind adjusts to off colour,,,,

Mikyd,,, i asked Daz not to send it to me,,,, yeah call me stubborn,, but I dont want to be distracted by chasing light levels,,, what i am after is purity of image POI as opposed to POE

I do have a $4000 usd light meter already, and have not used it except around august last year,,,

gawd we have enough problems in commercial unit zone regarding the amount of lumens between models already,, I dont want to get trapped on that hurdy gurdy ,,,

brightness is one small part of this game,, yeah I know sounds strange,, but a good image more about colour purity and contrast and sharpness of image,, the brightness is really secondary,, but nevertheless still important too,, however I am truly surpised how bright this one is,,, so luck is both ways here,,

So Elken; is it Osram Powerball, or what ? Btw, in the last picture whites are a bit yellower than early ones. Is that bulb 3200K or 4200K ?

Anybody Know a U.S. supplier of a ballast for the ushio cmd 150 I think it calls for a m142/e.

^ Word.

I would love to find a place in the U.S. to buy a ballast that for sure will work with this CDM150 bulb. That's the only missing piece in my plan right now.

Also, elken, I am very interested to see what kind of results you could achieve with the Philips CDM150 and a couple of 3DLens 330mm FL Fresnels with 0.2mm groove pitch. I am wondering if they are worth the extra cost over the standard LL Fresnels. Edit: Apparently I forgot that you already addressed this a few pages back, and said that you thought two 3DLens 330's would be awesome.

I actually giggled with glee (not ashamed to admit it ) when I saw the first few brilliant images you projected with that little 150watt lamp. This is quite an exciting thread to follow.

Thanks so much for all your efforts. When you're done here, there are going to be some new rules about DIY. Excellent progress so far, keep it up!

I do believe that this Sola ballast from Pro Lighting will do the trick. I notice that many ballasts that carry the M142 rating will also carry the M102 (and/or M81 rating) as well... M102 is a pulse start lamp ballast, and the M81 is an HQI lamp ballast... what I don't know is that if a lamp rated for M142 will run "correctly" on a ballast only listed as M102... this is of interest to us as M102 ballasts are much more plentiful here in the US.

just my $0.02

cheers,
gs