To Elken:

I have:
- A 150W kit with ballast, ignitor... , with OSRAM POWERBALL CERAMIC LAMP.
- Pro reflector.
- Condensor 90mm.
- Pro lens (pro triplet and pro fresnels).
- Possible 17" TFT BENQ monitor (not yet, but in a few time).

Questions:
Do I must to buy a this 3dlens fresnels?
1)220 mm fresnel --> change 330mm fresnel.
2)650 mm fresnel --> change to 550mm fresnel (need?).
3)What do you think about my components (without fresnels)? It's right to obtain good results?

Thank you and great job!

Anything new since the nose pics? It's been 10 days already

FYI I get 63 ANSI lumens with the Powerball

Yep
Just dropped in the 150w powerball as a replacement for my 250w HQI - which has been giving me lots of satisfaction over the last year. After slight precondenser adjustment, image seems just as bright, but much sharper, more "contrasty" and more uniform. Reds are also looking less orangy.
Whites are a tad warmer, but should improve as the lamp settles.

I also have an interesting short FL pre-cond and new reflector to test, so lots of luxie measurements should follow

.....if I send you back your luxie measuring machine

Can you tell us how you got your 63 ANSI ?

Do you thing that 63 is a good number?

I got it using MichaelJ's luxmeter and doing some super funky awesome genius computing

before i took the AG apart, I was getting 50 ANSI lumens and it wasn't bright enough to my taste....63 lumens is just great

too bad the PB is 4200K so it clearly isn't as white as my previous Venture 6500K lamp....but it was giving 28 lumens(with the AG)....so I can live with yellowish white, I just lower the Green channel on my panel and it's pretty ok

Tell us what kind of projector you've got

If your saying that your geting 63 LUX on the screen then that is a great # unless your screen is 50" but I would not know because you did not say.

I'm getting 60 ansi lumens(not lux) on a 1.20m large screen(not diagonal), and 63 ansi lumens(not lux) on a 1.70m large screen(not diagonal).

I let you do the maths to convert to feet/inches/thumbs/fingers/nails or whatever it is that you like better

I thought you knew ......but anyway I got the first LL premade pj.

I took the AG apart, put some super awesome 95% transmissivity anti-uv pyrex glass then put the Powerball in there.

I tripled the output brightness with 3 easy steps.

ANSI is a nine point reading that takes in to account the screen size. It is not metric or English but a standard so we all can tell how bright a light system is. 300 ANSI is the same in France as it is in America it just has a white flag attached if it is in French.

It should be the screen divided into nine equal squares with a target in the middle of each square. The LUX is taken from each square. The stray light should be taken too but for a dark room it will be around 3 LUX.

Average the 9 readings (add all the readings and divide by 9)

Multiply by the screen size in square meters

If your screen is 1.7m^2 and you have average of 60 lumen on the screen then you have (average lumen x screen size) or 60 x 1.7 or 102 ANSI.

This is still way low for a pre made PJ.

Perhaps the LUX meter is on the 10X scale which would mean you have 600 ANSI

A standard 400 watt LL PJ with no pre-condenser makes around 100 ANSI lumens. A commercial unit should make 300 to 1000 depending on how it is adjusted. I would guess that the lux meter is at 10x and you have 600 ANSI.

oh thank you for telling me something I'm very much aware of

I was pointing out that the PB gave me 63 ANSI lumens on the projection wall, that's all.

FIY, 63 ANSI lumens for a 150W MH bulb in a DIY pj is very good.

I have the first premade LL projector, which is 640*480 native with a 5,6" LCD panel.

besides, I'm quite sure that the new EVO LL premade pj doesn't give 63 lumens.......but fortunately it's got a G12 bulb so ppl will be able to do the same things I did : strip the AG, put a powerball and put some high transmissivity anti-UV pyrex

Hmm maybe I am also getting confused, Silver.

Just for giggles, what were the 9 lux readings and the dimensions of your screen? (assuming your full screen is lit and only the screen) I have gotten used to reading them that way from AV's work.

AV, do we have any data on ACTUAL produced light from a commercial projector? Meaning the 9 points just mentioned, screen dimensions, etc.? I am sure it varies from pj to pj, but maybe one or two of the popular brands? That would be a nice sticky for people to refer back to.

hey AV, I don't own a "commercial" pj with $500 light bulbs.

I've got a LL premade pj with HQI lamps, manufactured by SOHA :
http://www.soha.net.cn/ProductShow.asp?ID=91

like lesavoir has :
http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...c=12765&hl=

which is a premade DIY pj.......with fresnel lenses, etc.....

and yes 63 ANSI lumens for a 150W/5" DIY projector is very good..

MichaelJ is getting 60 ANSI lumens with a 250W HQI bulb and a Hami 8" panel.

I can't see why the actual lux data would make you giggle, but giggle as much as you can then :

21.6|32.3|25.9
26.3|44.2|29.5
22.8|33.2|26.2

screen was 1.70m x 1.275m (4:3) and there was no stray light whatsoever(yes, I put the cap on the objective and tried to get a measurement and it would stay a 0.00, in case you were wondering)

FIY, many ppl have benchmarked real commercial pj, and very few of them output more than 300 ANSI lumens IRL....it's all about commercial bull$h*t you know

Sorry A/V... I though this was a "dead horse"... i've got numbers, but the confirm what others have already found with the 150W lamp.

I've got a CDM-T6/942 that i'm using with a pro reflector, 4.5x6.5" precondenser, 330/650 fresnels and the pro triplet, WUXGA panel.

12.0 17.6 12.4
14.3 22.4 13.7
12.0 16.8 10.6

ave lux = 14.6 (x4.55m^2 = 48 ANSI lumens)

This is easily watchable in a light controlled environment. I do wish it were slightly brighter though. The ~50 ANSI lumens is basically what I measured when I got my lux meter. My setup at that time of my first reading was 400W EYE BT-28, LL eballast, ikea napkin ring reflector, 220/317 + standard triplet using a CMV-520D LCD with a replaced polarizer. I was very happy then with my projection, but as with everything, started experiementing.

I will go back to my 400W HQI-TS setup (how soon I don't know), but that setup was measuring 158 ANSI lumens on the 400W LL eballast, and 179 ANSI lumens on the overdriven S51 ballast (~550W). Do I miss the extra brightness ?? ... at first, most certainly, but after a little while I got accustomed to the lower lumen levels... I'm pretty happy with the 150W, but we'll see what happens when I go to the 400W lamp again...

gs

hey Gadget, I agree 50 lumens is not quite "enough"

reason why I stripped my AG, and got 20% additional brightness

did you strip your AG ?

OTOH, you're not using a Powerball, which has a smaller arc.....with all the advantages that means

Also, did you find a way to get crispy white ? 'coz I've tried many options(involving Powerstrip and the panel OSD) and my best try was to lower the green channel to 70% on the panel....and still it wasn't quite white, but more like yellowish white

Let's not forget your premade pj is using a 5,6" lcd as compared to GadgetSmith's 15.4" WUXGA. Even with his precondenser he'd still have to move back his light engine to cover the entire panel whilst with yours you can easily use the center brightness of the bulb to cover your 5".

Interesting thought though, does your premade pj come with a precondenser? I'm thinking a aspheric may just double your lumens especially at the size of your lcd, then you can compare 63 to 130 lumens.

yup, my pj has both a reflector and a condenser lens, I can post some photos....I took the damn thing apart a countless number of times

No need. I beleive meyer's got 90 out of his larger lcd panel pj.

Well, I guess it really boils down to each one's preference then. Whether it be a warm 4000k temp white or a cool 6500k or 63 lumens to 300+ like AV's...or was it 400+

meyer ? 90 ? with a 150W ceramic lamp ?

Well the choice for me was simple : 28 lumens with a 150W 6500K HQI or 63 lumens with a 150W 4200K Powerball.......that was an easy choice, I know

a 150W MH lamp already increases the room temperature in a pretty insane way(not usable in summer), so there's no chance I would run a pj with anything higher than 150W......which is more than enough for my 5.6" panel and my 1.70m large screen, and besides I'm not looking forward a 5 figures electricity bill

Meyers test: http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...3358&st=106

'sighh' I dont get this yellow bit,,, my image where there are whites are paper white..

Reflector???

I really thought the 150 was giving around 100 to 150 ANSI with the right condenser. I'm sorry to here that all you are getting is 63 ANSI, if there is any thing I can do to help let me know.

Since we are comparing lumens, I’m getting 83 ANSI 68% vignetting. using the powerbalL, pre-con and reflector. My whites are fine.

DJ

I'm sure silver surfer can get more even pass 83 lumens since he's only projecting on 5" lcd. The lamp has got be closer within his premade pj while others have to be further back to cover a larger panel. Perhaps a tighter condenser like a aspheric beamer.

I'm currently in the process of building my son's using his 7" portable dvd player. I've been collecting all sorts of smaller precons for experimentation that I plan to incorporate into his which might be with a aspherical lens. And yes elken,....I'm building it using a 150w'r. Just not sure which one though.

well let me say,, now added to my knowledge base, is real stuff,, in and around a cinema, so I now know blow for blow comparisons,, and lots of viewing,, and close up study of digital tech as used in theatre's, and also coming back to both an hqi/powerball,, and the hqi,, is way over blue compared to a cinema,,,, colour timing is the term of reference used in the game..
plus upscaling of images and this is all done on a native 1024 x 768 commercial projector with a 9 meter wide screen..
the powerball is the closest equiv, to a cinema projection, when it comes to final colour timing as presented on a front projection screen..

I am now fully happy with all the research I have done, over the last few months, and the fact I have been chasing the right path and information etc..

powerball without doubt,,,

I was referring to silver surfers 63 lum's on his 5" lcd as compared to DAZZ's and meyer's 83 on a larger panel and not the type of 150w'r I'll be using. Over here in the US of A, just looking for the right ballast is already a bigger task as it is as mikyd is finding out.

well my premade pj is a tight fit, so there's no chance I could move any element.

anyway I'm very happy with the Powerball, just a bit yellowish but well Sh*t Happens!

right
you really thought a 150W ceramic would output more lumens than a 400W HQI ?

I agree that the yellowish is fine to watch movies, and looks a lot better than HQI by a long shot anyhow!
but for strictly computer stuff, it's nowhere as white as on my 6500K CRT.

but Kudos to you for having tried the ceramic lamps

but i dont have yellow,,, only after beer.!!!!!

well I've read the 82 pages of this thread, and I've found 2 replies from you where you gave infos on how to calibrate the whites..
you talk about calibrating the greys, then the colors.

but my greys are fine, and I've played around with Powerstrip and the OSD menu for quite a while...and I got my best results by lowering the green channel on the panel to 70%, all the rest was pointless.

70% green,,, mine is as ala natural... hmmmm....

well I stil got R and B at 100%, but lowering G to 70% makes the yellowish less annoying.

what are your uber-settings then ?

seriously, all puns aside,, my settings are with red reduced to about 69% from green which is 75% and blue at 73%

red is reduced to 69% from green which is 75% ?

ok let's do another game then :

my aunt is 35 y.o, her neighbor is 30% younger and still 80% older than her husband.
their dog is roughly 15% younger than their grand-son.

how old is their daughter then ?

young enough to know better,, arkh arhk arkh

I think that might have been a wrong word choice.
Corrected ?“seriously, all puns aside,, my settings are with red reduced to about 69% , green which is 75% and blue at 73%”

All reverenced to 100

ummmm yep,,, yes ref from to 100%

ok,, here are the new pure white lamps,, aka flouro type, with powerball display too

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

show me yellow?

the cam was fully auto,, no tweaks at all

ahhhhhhhh......well I'm colorblind anyway

Leeperri, I think your problem with yellowing may be due to the algorithms in the actual LCD controller boards. I have a feeling that they were set up specifically for use with a blue lamp. Meaning, they let allot of the lower temp though. Or even some other odd color specific to the original lamp.

DJ

well I tend to believe that all LCD panels are calibrated to run with 6500K back light.
and only a 6500K HQI source would give me perfect white.
I already tried 5200K HQI from OSRAM, and it was also yellowish, even though it wasn't as bad as with the 4200K Powerball.

A while ago, someone wrote in this thread :



Well I can turn down the red without a problem even though I don't see the point, but I can't "bump up" the blue, considering I cannot "add" or "create" some blue spectrum that neither the bulb or the panel CF can offer.

I will try to lower the 3 R/G/B channels to 70 then play around, so to be able to "add" BLUE over RED/GREEN like elken suggested

do you get a white panel like I just posted at all ??

well I can't shutdown the LCD panel, but If I show a 255 white image, it's yellowish

take a pic with explorer opened as like I posted, and post it.. fully auto cam sets,,, just curious too see..

why are you in anon mode??