I had my panel mounted in my projector and everything was working fine. I removed it to make some changes and now when I reconnect (inside or outside the projector) I get a blinking green light and no picture. WHAT DID I DO??????

When the projector goes to "sleep" it turns an amber color, so I know that it is not that. Could I be grounded out? What can I test? Everything looks fine. IDEAS???

does your one use a power pak for panel,,, or does it have mains lead plug, into panel power supply board,,

it is possible you dont have ground between logic pcb and power supply or something like that,,, the blinking green could indicate a fault status,,

Thanks for the reply. I have a power adapter outside the LCD. It is not a power cord straignt into the LCD. How would I ground it? I am baffled.

can you take a pic of boards?

I will have them up in 10 minutes

ok

Thanks again for looking I apprecaite the input.

More shots

ok,,,, have a close look at conector that goes into the blue pcb,, the flat connector,,, has it bent up from pcb,,, look very carefully at it,, they are barely held in place at the ends (LVDS is what it is called)

the connector is soldered on the ends,,

also that same cable the comes from panel (blue pcb),, disconnect the cable,, and power unit on,,, but unplug the connector on the main logic board,,, but also be careful which way connector goes,, use white out or something to mark it,, some connectors can be plugged wrong way around,,,

I just want toi see if the blinking green led happens without panel connected..

ohhh the ground connection,,

where the blue pcb is there are mounting holes,,, run a wire from the very top one in pic (first pic) top corner of blue pcb,,, back to the metal chassis the main green logic board is attached to...

sometimes not have a ground can cause flickering in image and other funnies

another thing is to feel the temp of the LSI chips (the big black circuits)

they may get warm,, but should not feel very hot...

Thanks again.

I reseated the flat cable. Checked its connections. No difference

Unplugged that cable. No difference.

Added a ground wire from mount hole to chassis. No difference.

Any other thoughts?


I am really baffled and frustrated......

did you look at connector on blue pcb???,,, does it look ok,, use a magnifier

something happened in removal

are any of the chips getting hot??

if you can take a pic (closeup) of lvds cable and connector on blue pcb,, these flat connectors can be plugged upside down,,, the keys are very very light,,, I wanna see the colurs of wires and blue PCB closeup...

I looked this connector over pretty good. Nothing is visable to me. I cant help but think that it may be the side that goes in to the main PCB. It looks ok though.

I had no accidents that I know of when I took it out (dropped, scratched....etc)

Nothing gets hot either.....

are you sure that the flat cable went into blue board the right way?

when my panel (LVDS) is not connected on my mitsubishi,, the power led blinks,, saying ''well where is panel'' !!!!

also if you have too, send an email to them and ask what it could mean,,, manufacturer

I never took it out. I only disconnected the other end.

is it possible it can go in wrong way,,,, but dont try to reverse, to test !!!

No it is not possible. Same for the other end. Could there be a short of some type?

it is bizzare,, but try putting the backlight section back on and see what happens then,,,,

be damm careful with the FFC's too

put backlight board back in place and no difference.

Could it be the power adapter gone bad? It has a faint light on it but it always did.

Just a thought.....no way to test it

Thanks for the help anyway.

This may be the end for me for a while. I got no $$ left for a 3rd LCD. UUUGGGHHHH

are the others the same as this current unit,, mix and match game !!!

No 2 different models.....

when you put the connector back on from where you took it off, is it possible to be off one pin? or maybe upside down? sounds like the green flashing light is the control not "seeing" the panel. this tells me something came loose or is not connected. double check all the connectors that plug in, be very careful of any soldered connectors. if all you did was take out the panel you must have missed something.

Does the light blink in a pattern (maybe something like 3 blinks then a pause then 5 blinks then a long pause)? If there is a pattern to it, then it's very possible you could look up the blink code on the ol' interweb.

I have the same unit and ran into a few hiccups along this line. I snapped the longer mini connector in half and bent a pin. A couple things of note if you pull the power daughter board (the one with the led) the tv will automatically turn on and function as on without it. Hope that makes sense.

So first thing to do is pull the power switch board keep in mind you will lose the remote control sensor that is also on it. So make sure you have the manual channel controls plugged in. A couple other things of note you can pull the high voltage daughterboard( the yellow pc board with transformer) it is only for the backlight and the unit can function with out it.

You can pull the manual control(channel) daughterboard if you are only using the remote control Once you get passed this problem.

The longish multipin connector(thin long 40) ( which I have extended by the way ) CAN BE PUT IN BACKWARDS OR HAVE PINS BENT and is the most likely issue you are dealing with it will even function with erors if there is a mistake in the pinouts on this one.

On the other end multipin connector (fat and wide) on the input control board is easy to pull wires when pulling it out, if you pulled it by the wires you may have severed a pin or two.

Also note you can plug some of the wrong connectors in the wrong place such as the control daughter board CAN BE PLUGGED INTO THE SPEAKER output jacks.

Finally the power supply operates between 14-16 volts and can be heat damaged into dropping to 9ish volts (death of my first powersupply) and could account for misfiring in your driving circuits.

Im not sure where your from but if you can go to a radioshack and pick up this multimeter for 20 bucks I will gladly walk you through the simple tests (voltage, resistance, circuit completion on pinouts and cables and so on) to try the non logic and circuit problms you could be facing. IT IS likely a pin problem.

Multimeter

Drop me a message here if ya pick one up the test for your problem are alot simpler than building one of these beasties ever was.

Boz

Thanks elken2004, TESCORP, and Hirudin all for the ideas and input. So far no luck.

Boz I really appreciate the model specific info. I will see if I can get a hold of a multimeter tonight. I know that I have one somewhere....been a while since I used one so help with this would also be appreciated.

I can't help but think that your assessment on the cable end going into the main controller from the LCD controller may be to blame. May have seperated some during removal despite my best efforts to avoid it.

That is the hardest part of all this....I have no idea what I did. At least with my first panel I could see the torn FFC.....

Thanks again to all for taking the time and providing good support.

Thanks to all for your help. After walking away from this thing for 2 weeks, I was able to get back on track tonight. Looks like I had a short or some sort of ground out caused by the IR receiver/Power switch board.

http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...st&p=157524

Thanks again