well i understand it like this, when a switch closes it turns ON, so this is saying it turns on at 60 deg cel. or 140 degrees farenheight. I dont think i want my monitor getting up to 140 degrees before the fan turns on. the switch would shut off at 113 degrees, still way too hot.

Foamcows,

Yes, you're right. Except this thermo switch is IN the lightbox. So in reality it will switch on when the lightbox hits 60 and off when the lightbox is <45. I would imagine the panel would only be just above room temp when the globe enclosure hits 60 and it'd be nice and cold by the time the globe enclosure is at 45.

Cheers,
Arkay

Hi,

New member here from Aus. I deal in lighting gear and get ballasts at good prices. Most of the ballasts I sell are already assembled and mount for remote use. Examples on pricing are my retail for a 400WMH control box = $90 and a 400W HPS control box = $105. Now I will sell to you guys for cost plus postage so it would be less than those prices. If you still prefer to use individual components, I can get them too but would take me longer to get them.

I can also get lamps at good prices, but it might take me a while to find out specs, availability and prices etc. I will get back with info on these as soon as I have it. I do already have in stock 600W MH lamps that output 50000 lumens, not sure if this excess lumens is a benefit as I haven't even had a chance to read the pdf file yet.

Will update as soon as I get more info on lamps.

G'Day Taipan,

Welcome to the forums.
Great to here your in the lighting biz. It's been a real prob for us here to get reliable info on all this eye scorching stuff.

600W is too much. We only need 400W for 15" panels and 250W or there abouts for 7" panel.

Anyway looking forward to any info you can provide us with.

Cheers........

Hi Taipan, what state are you in?


I have found a good price for the HQI-TS 400W/NDL at $85 Singapore dollars, $22 postage.
The full specs are listed in arkay's 'Lamps in Australia' post.
(35000 init lm, 4200K, 206mm long, HPS control gear).

Unfortunately, they can't supply the HQI-TS 400W/D, which is what I enquired about.

When the lamp has been added to their online store, I'll post the URL.

The HQI-TS 250W/D (5100K) is available for $75 SGD.

So what did you think about the thermal switch idea above? Could we get away with fan on at 60 degrees in the light box and off again at 45 degrees in the lightbox?

How much of the temp does the toughened glass actually stop from reaching the panel? Guess it's a hard Q to answer. May just have to try it and see.

Cheers,
Arkay.

Hi,

I am in NSW.

I have got a price on a Sylvania MS400/HOR/BT28 39000lumens 4200K RCI 65 for A$68 + GST. I am waiting on the osram prices and should know early next week. I can also get ballast components at a good price.

Just wondering what monitors other Aussies have been using. You buying new monitors? or buying used? I have been looking at new monitors and the cheapest I can find is $419 for a BenQ one with 400:1 contrast but only 25ms and $480 for one with 16ms.

Any advise would be appreciated.

Taipan,

I managed to get a second hand benQ FP567s on e-bay for $325 with 2 year warrantee still on it.

Only other things I've seen people doing are buying brand new or trying to find something on ebay or graysonline computer auctions.

There's a place in Melbourne (www.computerdirect.com) that sell the benq's at $430 ish.

The US guys buy from a benQ refurb place but according to all my research there is no such place to buy from in Australia.


Here's one on ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...ssPageName=WDVW

You can try what I did. I wrote to the guy before the auction ended and asked him if he'd consider cancelling the auction if we could agree on a price off ebay. His was up to $250 at the time. I offered him $325 and he agreed, cancelled the auction and the job was done. This one is already up to $300 but it might be worth offering the guy $350 and see if he'll sell it right now.

Cheers,
Arkay.

Edit: Heres the link to the US refurb site. They might ship to Aus...

http://store.yahoo.com/benqshopper/15relcdmo.html

Edit2: Just realised the ebay ad above is for a benQ 567. I believe you need the 567s as the 567 (no s) has an ffc issue. You could always ask if it is an s or not.

Arkay
I think the thermostat sounds like it would be worth a try. Its like a safty interlock.
I think we can safely say its going to be more than 60C within the lamp enlosure .
Simple cheap solution
Ian

Those thermostats are available at JayCar for about $4.50AU

Thanks for the links, Arkay. I am not in a real hurry at the moment so I might just keep shopping for a second hand one.

Taipan,

I edited my previous post with this info but in case you haven't seen it.

The ebay auction link I gave you is for a benQ 567, not a 567s (apparently only the S models are ok for this project). If you go for it make sure the guy checks the model number at the back. If it doesn't have the s, don't buy it

Then again, Squirrel can pretty much fix any ffc issues these days so it still might be worth going for.

Cheers,
Arkay.

Howdy all,

Im another aussie and have just bought the guide

Im very interested in this project, however im a complete noob I have no idea what i need can can buy here.

Any suggestions help anything, u got msn? let me add u and i can pick your brain for answers

Edit: Im from Brisbane

Regards,
Matt

Hi Matt,

Welcome to the forums. You're going to love it if you're anything like the rest of us.

A word for the new though. Be patient

Most of us Aussies have now been on the forums for at least a month or more and none have finished their projector yet. It takes time and research and planning. Fortunately a great deal of the ground work has been done and once you've had time to digest all the information in these forums you'll be in a much better position to make a start.

Essentially you need to do the following:

1. Read.
2. Read.
3. Read.
4. Order some parts and start collecting everything you will need.
5. Build.
6. Tweak.
7. Enjoy!

There are local/OS sources for everything in the project that is hard to obtain. Lighting, lenses (from lumenlab), reflector from lamps (lumenlab shop will get you there).

Wood you can buy at Bunnings, glass from any half decent glazier.

There is a list of compatible monitors you will find on this site, I'd suggest if your budget allows to go with one proven to be good for the project. You can but new or second hand and there is a great deal of play in what you want to achieve, that's the beauty of DIY. Some guys have done awesome jobs on expensive PJ's, some have obtained sensational results on a very small budget. It's really up to you and your personal circumstances.

Once you've read up on everything and understand the theory etc behind it all it will become relatively simple and fun to build, the main thing is to take your time, it won't happen overnight, but it will happen

Go check out the protected forums. There's also a lot of info in the Australian lighting thread -> http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1008.

Have fun!

Cheers,
Arkay.

Hey all I don't know who still posts here.

Ijust discovered this site today, interestingly enough I work for Dick Smith Powerhouse and we sell a LCD tv product with S-video, RCA, RGB input for $698 we used to do them for around $500 mark, but they've gone up again. If they were around $400 they would be a killer deal.

http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefro...duct/View/G3810

AFAIK they are a re-packaged samsung unit with the DSE (dick smith electronics, duh!) name stamped onto them. Quality wise I find them pretty much indistinguishable from $800-$1000 monitors.


Quick Specs
1024x768 resolution
25ms response time
300:1 contrast ratio.
400cd/sqm brightness
Inbuilt speakers
Remote Control

=

I intend to make a projection screen as described here:

http://www.projectorspecifications.com/diy_screen.php

Problem is that when I enquired yesterday, Lincraft only sell white 2400mm blockout in the form of custom made curtains. I'll be checking with some other stores in the chain, but in the meantime, has anyone found a source for white 2400mm 3-pass blockout by the metre?

Hi Lumens, Welcome to the forums..........

The TV you have listed. I take it it's the 7" Car TV/Monitor.
That is quite expensive. kinda defeats the purpose a little. Jaycar alos have a similar unit. Also we are currently working with 15" Monitors due to the lenses we have availible to us at a reasonable cost.
If you do intend to go down the 7" line. check out the Lilliyput 7" LCD Monitors on Ebay. They have the specs we need, they strip well and have no FFC issues, they also have VGA in as well as the rest and fairly importantly are cheaper and have remote control.

Anyway good to have another Aussie here.
Good Luck.

Greetings Coolmatt and Lumens, Welcome to the forum
As Arkay has said read read read and then ask.
Some of us are already on the road the road to building the big projector
and the chances are someone has already come across the problem to the answer you are seeking..... So ask away
Ian

The DSE ones are 15" or 38cm I should've specified that. With discount and that I can get a bit off one for myself. It sucks employees now can't get shit at cost price, it was never like that before I started

Where in australia are some of you guys?

I'm located in geelong, vic.

Anyone nearby---I may want to come and take a quick squiz.

Hey Coolmatt, Welcome.

Lumens, Sorry mate I should av read through your link a bit better.
P.S. I'm in Sydney.

Ian, How did the extention go? Any other progess? Perhaps I may ask if you are able to knock up a box for me? I was quite impressed by the one in one of the pics you sent me. Currently I am just prototyping with thin MDF. Then once it's all sorted (Size and placements) I will do the nice box but I definatly can't do wood work as good as electronics. Yours looks very swish!!!!!!!

So what would you guys go for, in the way of a monitor? - recommendations?
i see a few benqs around $470-500 mark.

There's so many different types. I just need more info in order to home in on a decent screen.

Now with refresh rates, is it imperative to get an LCD with 100hz if we plan to go for one to plug into a HD box? or it's not important?

Important Features?

300:1 (MIN contrast ratio)
25ms (preferably less response time)
1024x768 (Min resolution) - correct me if i'm wrong but aren't 15" generally a max of 1024x768?

Other things, with bulbs and globe, what's been the best and most cost effective way?

I've just thinking about importing the tube, holder, and ballast from the states. But wait a tick, the states use 110v at 60hz, and we use 240v at 50Hz, therefore those ballasts aren't going to like our power grid?

www.itwarehouse.com.au - seems to have decent prices. Although I may go to my friends computer store and see what he can do for me, he can get me gear cheaper than my own work can It sucks.

The plywood in mine is 19mm CD grade ply. I bought it for $68 AUD 2440 x 1200. Shop around Bunnings was more expensive, but they do have a cutting service.
Then its only glue and screw.

Hi guys,

I just used 18mm MDF for mine (bout $45 from Bunnings), got them to cut it to my specs. Have had to fill a couple of little gaps but nothing major. I've just screwed it together at presnent. Still nice a strong though. I may unscrew and glue. Haven't decided yet. I had enough left over to make my focus assembly + extra, and MDF is dead simple to work with. I'd say it largely depends where it's going to live when it's finished. Mine will be in a coffee table so I don't really care what it looks like (although I'm trying to do a very neat job).

Lumens,

For a monitor I'd aim for specs of at least:

450:1 Contrast ratio
16ms or less response time.

That's what you really want. The CMV monitors are a good buy in the $400-$500 range.

I got a BenQ 567s from ebay for $325.

Refresh rates as in 85Hz/100Hz etc make no visible difference on LCD monitors as the terminology references how fast the beam scans a CRT surface in order to draw the image. LCD's don't scan. They just turn on or off. The main thing is how fast a pixel can go from off -> on -> off again which is the response time. If it's too slow you'll get smearing and/or ghosting on fast motion in games or movies.

Just keep reading. All the information is in the forums and we've fully discussed using the BT28 EYE from America on an Australian Ballast. Suitable lamps are now available locally (we think, no ones finished to try it out yet).

BTW. I'm in Melbourne. Haven't finished my project yet but I do have photo's. I need to start a projector thread soon so I can post em up.

Cheers,
Arkay.

Ok just to make sure i'm getting this straight -

we're better off ordering the lamp + holder from the US?

As for the ballast-what sort would I need to source.

Then again I see that the website mentions the ballast been Multi-tap - 120V-277V.

What ballasts are you guys using? - and any of you sourced your lamps yet?


Today I was doing some thinking about some enhancements on the projector design.

1. An automated start up sequence, which begins with the fans coming on, then the lamp, then once the lamp is at optimal temperature and brightness, the LCD comes on.
2. A shutdown sequence which works in reverse, swithces the fan off last once the temperature reaches a certain level.
3. Automatic fan speed control, which works in response to temperature, and preferably a secondary fan.
4. An emergency lamp shutdown is the temperature becomes to high.
5. Mechanical focus adjustment.

Lumens,

Check through the earlier pages in this thread, we have already had a fairly good chat and most of us have listed what we bought or are getting in the way of lamps and ballasts.

Note: Most of the ballasts in the US have multi tap's on their primary side so you can wire it to 240v. The lamp is still a bit of a mystery though, we have 50Hz and US have 60Hz. Personally I can't see there being a prob and I myself am going to try one. (I have local ATCO ballast etc.) In my head I see the lamp working but perhaps the frequency of our mains may change the color temp slightly. (Hopefuly not enough to be a prob).

Just on your first 4 points.
I am working on a small circuit that will do just about everything you have mentioned. It will be controlled by a microprocessor and will be upgradeable too. Final sell price looks to be around the $25-$30 mark.
Hopefuly it will be ready in about a month. (hard to find the time).

Thought you might like to know.

Hmmm 50hz, 60hz don't think it should cause a problem.

I'm sure other people here in other countries with 50hz would have tried it.

What's the frequency's in parts of europe?

also any of you who use msn

add me cmwmjt83@hotmail.com

You all got to excuse me, i'm finding the whole lamp/ballast issue a bit confusing.

In a nutshell, will the US lighting kit work here or not?

Lumens,

There's a whole discussion about lighting is Australia available here:

Aussie lighting

From discussion with lamps (who sells the BT28 Hor in America), we were undecided if it will or won't work on 50hz power. Lamps spoke to a lighting tech at EYE in the States and he suggested that it will most likely cause problems. That is the only advice we have and unitl someone can try it we won't really know.

As an alternative we have found an Osram double ended lamp (HQI-TS 400 W/D) and matching ballast, cap, bases etc. All the part numbers can be found in the thread above. (It's a smaller footprint making it easier to use with a reflector).

I can source the parts at the prices I have listed. Taipan can get them cheaper I believe.

As for delivery times don't hold your breath, every lighting company in Australia seems to be as slack as they come. You should try researching lamps and see how helpful they aren't!!

So, your choices are this:

1. Go with the American globe on a local ballast and try your luck.
2. Buy a local lamp and ballast at a higher price.

BTW, the local HQI comes with a higher colour rating >90, it's likely that this will provide a nicer image than the BT-28, possibly not as bright but Brain has assured us that with a reflector it will be fine. Incidently, I'm also getting a 400 W/D and a 250 W/D for Brain to try out. The 250 is for his 7" PJ. He has expressed a lot of interest in double ended lamps with high CR indexes and I'm sure he's researched several thousand more lamps than us

Cheers,
Arkay.

Okily dokily. So who here is close to getting there projectors up and running?

If that's the case with using the US lighting, then maybe have to go the local route.

Can you elaborate on the double ended thing?

Ahh decisions decisions. I think first thing, order the lenses and reflector and wait. And then wait till a decent LCD turns up for cheap, or a friend steals one for me Whoops! Shouldnt say that.

How much did all your lighting gear set you back?

Ahh man....

Please read this thread:
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V

CLICK ON ME

^
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About 12 posts from the bottom is pricing from me and Taipan. Taipans hasn't confirmed final pricing as yet.

Cheers,
Arkay.

EDIT:- Sorry can't get the Osram lamps anymore.

thanks for that, you guys rock.

Sorry if I sound ignorant, I just don't have that much time to read through all the posts. Hopefully will get around to it tonight or tomorrow night.

But thanks for your help though.

What'd the lens kit end up costing once you got it to aus?

http://www.viewsonic.com/products/desktopd...e2series/ve500/ <== viewsonic v3500 400:1 contras ratio and 16ms response time $460 from computeronline.com.au

CMV 529A Contrast 500:1

http://www.diycomputers.com.au/index/produ...a37586cc35dca0a

http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...pic=793&hl=cmv%
20529&st=60

http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4

The lens kit (1005) with postage cost me 87.98 USD, or 128.55 AUD.

If you dig around a bit, you'll find that the Benq FP567s V2 is specified as having 450:1 cr (max 500:1), whatever that means.

http://www.allthings.com.au/Catalogue/Moni...iewer%20pro.htm

About the screen material, I bought 3 metres of this from Spotlight:

Magic Drape 235cm (94") Lining Tape (or 3-pass White Polycotton Sunout Lined) at $25.95 per metre.

Now on to the frame!

Hey Guys,
I posted this over in the fan section as well but thought you might be interested


Evercool PCAC

The Evercool PCAC exhausts up to 100CFM of hot air from the front of the case. This unique blower is intended for use in cramped cases where the airflow is restricted, and it is difficult to install additional case fans. The PCAC is quiet in operation and features fan speed adjustment via an easily accessible knob.

Features

First unique turbine lateral cross-flow fan design, high air flow volume provides up to 100 CFM which allows the blower to dispense large volume of heat.
Classical appearance for the case shows the quality of the blower.
Fits Standard 5.25" Drive Bay
Dual Ball bearing (longer life expectancy)

Specifications

Outer Dimension: 82x80x67.2mm
Fan Dimension: 80x80x25 mm
Current: 0.07A ~ 0.13A
Fan Speed: 1100 ~ 3000 rpm
Airflow: 53.2 ~ 100 CFM
Noise: Lo< 21 , HI<23dBA
Voltage: 12V


$16.50
inc GST within Australia

That's an awesome fan

I just picked myself up a Fusion HDTV DVB-T card so I can watch REAL HDTV when my PJ is finished.

$214 from (www.iswh.com.au) and includes a remote and has analog inputs so I can plug in my Digital Receiver and pass through the standalone DVD, VCR and PS2!!! Too cool.

Of course I'll never need a DVD and a VCR again!!

Can't wait to get all this in place!

Now I have a dilema tonight... Play with HDTV card...or build PJ...hmmmmm

Cheers,
Arkay.

hhehe cool, my work is selling the Vision DTV ones for under $200 but i'm told they have buggy software.

Plus it has no inputs

Hopefully I may be scoring a CRT PJ off a friend tomorrow for quite cheap, only catch it needs new capacitors.

Hopefully find out tomorrow.

The fusion is cool. Seems pretty good software wise, can record to HDD and convert to DVD or DIVX format for storage. Pic quality is fantastic. Still haven't been able to get any AC3 through my SPDIF connection but that's probably because they're not broadcasting any. Still need to play a bit.

Unfortunately I had to swap over 2 video cards to put onei n that has DxVA (processing via directX using the GPU), and the second card died in the transfer... Now I have to go shell out another $100+ to get my PC working again....DOH.

Good news is though, for $200 I've got:

1. HDTV
2. PVR capability.
3. Analog Inputs. (For PS2 etc).
4. A Scaler/doubler.
5. AR correction (1 touch Aspct Ratio mods, 4:3 -> 16:9 etc etc)
6. A HDD VCR.

Essentially everything an N6 would give you at higher quality plus the added bonus of recording etc without need for an expensive set top recorder... If this works out right I should be able to sell the DVD player and VCR (and maybe even the TV)

Admittedly I already had the PC but it's only a P3 733 (worth about $300 now).

Excellent...

Cheers,
Arkay.

On a related topic I scored myself a barco CRT data projector off a mate, so far, for $0

It's got a powersupply problem but I don't have the balls to try and fix it.--- but i'm having an expert take a look on monday.

Damn thing took two of us to carry it, it was FREAKING HEAVY!

Oh yeah, as a 21st present I have an Onkyo SR501 6.1 channel amplifier

Hi all you guys, thanx to ian for pointing me here,, I am soaking up the info here..

Cant wait to get started,, I have optics, electro mechanical, down to component level (General electronics & computers) skills, this project is perfect,, hehehe but my money isn,t,,

Has anyone found a source for frenzel lens here?

Clive, sent you an email

With fresnels, not too sure, simplest way is to just order from lumenlabs.

Hi Elken,

Welcome to the forums.

Enjoy your project! It's a lot of fun, frustrating at times but well worth it in the long run (I think) I haven't quite finished yet!

Cheers,
Arkay.

Whew,,, so much info to digest and process here, but getting there.

Looks like we are going to order 2 sets of frenzel's and lens tonight,

I think I might build mine out of alum, so that mods can be easily modified
Do an open frame first then panel accordingly.

Oh PS: another additional thing to do, would be mount transistor heatsinks to rear of reflector, and elswhere as needed, this will help improve passive cooling too..

another thing that is very important is that (SMD) surface mounted components do not like heat (same with solder joint), mostly thru expansion and contraction, so low temps are essential

I will search thru all my electronics data books for ancillary control, EG, auto focus or at least electronic focus, monitoring electronics, there usaully are a lot of kits available from these sorts of things from DIY shops

I used to build automated astronomical control systems, used for CCD imaging, and worked with allsorts of fancy lens systems, but that was more with high powered Laser stuff (show lasers)
My mind is in a runaway mode with project already

But as the old saying goes KISS keep it simple stupid, so will build basic unit first, then go wild with add ons,,
I will post this info as I do it,,

So I hope I can contribute a lot as we go,
for anyone here in melb, I can do microsurgery on LCD displays and heaps of electronic gear and components, I still have good contacts for front surface mirrors too,,
'LET THERE BE LIGHT' & 'MAY THE LIGHT GO WITH YOU'