Hi, everyone I am 16 years old an live in Norway

Finally it's my turn to start building a projector. I have been reading here on the forums
since late February and Can't wait to get started

The Story:
It all started the summer of 2005. Me and my friend got a summer job from my mum.
We needed to remove the old paint and repaint the whole veranda which is approximately
6 x 5 M². We would be given 1200 kroner ≈ $171 each.
At that point I thought it would be an easy job,
but after a week of crawling around the veranda using a heat gun and a
scrape to remove the paint. My friend and I was completly exhausted.
The Important point here is: Never ever say yes to a paint removing job
involving heat guns in 25 degres Celsius. It was actually on of the varmest
weeks last summer...

I have always enjoyed going to the cinema. The first movie I remember I saw
in the cinema was Toy Story. A couple of years later I saw Jurassic Park 3. I was surprised and filled
with thrill, when I heard the dinosuars approched us from the back of the cinema. It was surround
My cinema had upgraded to 6.1 DTS sound. I was hooked

I spent all my birthday money on a dvd and dvd player in 2002.
It was an LG dvd player that was very cheap at that time 1600kr ≈ $ 229.
My first DVD was "The Hunchback of Notre Dame 2" that I bought for 299kr ≈ $43,
it was the only dvd I had for about 9 months. Couldn't afford any new dvds


So guess what I bought for my well earned paint job?
A 5.1 Phillips surround system in a little box
I use it on a old 20 inch phillips tv on my room.
I am really pleased with my surround system, but not with my tv...

No more small talk, let's jump to the PJ:

The criteria for my PJ are:
- Low cost, Again I am gonna use all my birthday money
- HDTV 720p

I would like to thank Vendur

For sponsoring a 120mm a real quiet SilenX fan Thanks

My Parts:

Elkjøp:
KTC 17 inch, 12 ms, 500:1, 1695kr ≈ $242.
That is the cheapest lcd monitor available in Norway

www.LumenLab.com:
LL Standard Triplet $ 30
UV Filter $ 12

www.3Dlens.com:
Large Fresnel Lens:
320x400mm, 0.2 grove pitch. #F220 and #F330


www.Izzotek.com:
400w metal halide kit: $138
Coil Ballast, Ignitor, Capacitor and light bulb: Much cheaper than the eballast and the bulb
has very good spesifications to

Radium HRI-TS 400W/D/230/FC2,
5200k, Colour Rendering Index: 93.

Edit: Forgot the fan.
Got an Evercool PCAC fan for $6 at lumenlab clearance sale. Thats a bargain :-)

Plywood made out of Pine 244x122cm: 750kr ≈ $107 Way to expensive

Things I need:
Tempered Glass
Wiring Stuff

My PJ are going to be a standard LumenLab Box

Greetings

for wiring, you can use computer power cords that are laying aroung.

If you need a 10 amp circuit breaker, you can find one in old type power strip also.

we get cheap lcds from ebay. the one that has dim (dark) image/displays.

good luck with the projector.

Thanks for the tip FreeWilly
I have a bunch of old computer cords lying around.
I will post a stripping guide later today. Stay Tuned

Alright, looks like we're gettin some youngins in here. This project is great for all (most) ages. I believe you're the youngest projector builder I've seen on here....

Blake, Thanks for the award : Youngest Projector Builder

Welcome aboard PJ Viking. There are many youngins like you and I around here. Though some of us would say we have taken part in more DIY projects than some of the older chaps. I know I've been going down the DIY road for a good couple years now. The more you experience your own skills and motivation, the more you can assure this projector will turn out just right. Good luck

KTC 7005L Stripping Guide: Link Here

Caution:
Remember to use esd safety tools. So you don't end up frying your new flatscreen.
I used an esd mat with an wristband grounder connected to it. I also didn't wear any socks
it may sound strange but it helps. Because your socks is easy charged if you are walking over
a carpet.

Bye, bye new space saving and sharp monitor, welcome back old unsharp 19inch monster


Remove two screws on the monitor stand.


Push the last plastic bit of the stand together as marked with the red arrows.


Remove the three screws marked with red.


Remove four screws marked in red, one in each corner. Then remove the whole plastic "lid".

You should have exposed the electronics shield.


Screw the two vga screws out counterclockwize as shown by the red arrows.


Remove speaker connectors shown in the middle of the large circut board. Then remove grey flat
cabel from the main board.


Remove the four small backlight connectors from the inverter board. Be carfull not to touch anything
on the board. It converts mains electricity to 400-600v. You don't wan't to end up as toast.
Then remove the main backlight conncector from the main circut board. Then unscrew inverter board and
put it in an esd shielded bag.
Tip: ESD shileded bags often comes with new computer equipment.


Gently pull the lcd screen connector from the main circut board.

Unscrew adjustment controls circut board and speakers.


Safely stored circut boards in esd bag.


Remove aluminium tape from the four places marked red. Then unscrew a all visible and invisible screws


Unscrew screws on the sides. Remove metal "lid".



Tip: If you now feel stressed take a break. The following part is the most challening

I had to buy a special screw driver with phillips head and size ph0, ph00 and ph000. Remove the screws, beaware of some hidden screws underneath cover! Then gently lift the aluminium "lid" off.


Circur board exposed watch those fcc. I had noen fcc related problem


This part is hard to explain and it is proabarly better ways to separate backlighting and lcd screen.


Congratualtions with your newly stripped lcd monitor ready for it's new dress

Thank you Professa Oak. I agree I have made a couple of diy projects my self before this one.
I made a little tiny light seking Beam robot. I built my own computer. I have read your plog
and think your projects looks great keep on working

Very nice, you're well on your way. I was wondering, what kinda enclosure are you gonna use?

Thanks Blake

I am going to build a standard lumenlab box enclosure out of 9mm thick
plywood. Unfortuneatly not as good loking as your projetcor enclousure.

Just one question the focal calc. Tells me that if the pj i posisoned 1.5 metres
from the screen the distance from the lcd to the triplet should be 40.5cm.
Is this possible when my collector fresnel has a focal lenght of 330mm =
33cm.?

Edit: Have to get some sleep now, 9 1/2 hours until school starts. See you all tommorow

Very impressive PLOG....Looks like you are going to teach/help out alot of older dogs
new tricks...
You seem to be very capable.
Have you given any thought to screen type? Since things are so expensive there I
would guess your screen will be a DIY...right?
Good luck. B

Welcome to LL planet, PJ Viking very very good feeling to have one more LL friend from Norway.
Your job very nice.

Wow that LCD strip very nicely and the cable look like it going to give you a nice elbow room to install controller in the box without worrying about any fcc issues.

Also I notice there a solder pad for DVI adapter plug on the controller board makes me wonder if the board is DVI ready or if there a LCD model with DVI plug in it that strips just as easy as this model.

And awesome job on your post about stripping the monitor! Very detailed I might add too.


Bill

Thank You ,
Yeah your're right. I am thinking of spanning canavas on a wooden frame. I will probably
go with a 16:9 aspect ratio, beacuse all my dvds are in that format
Our else I might buy the lumenlab screen if it is cheap enough...


Thanks do you have a plog?


Thanks for liking my plog
If you browse KTC you will proabably find a similar model
with dvi. Do you think I could use Dvi as an input, if i solder a dvi connector to the circut board?

Yes you could slap on a DVI plug but controllar chipset must have a firmware enabled on it so they might not enable it on this certain model.

Unless you got someone who's good at disammebly the firmware and recode it to enable DVI I wouldn't bother trying it.

One thing you can check to see if the DVI solder pad is going back to an IC chip if the chip is also omitted then it need more than just a plug too.


Bill

It look like the dvi port are connected to the chip. But I will take your advice and leave it for now.
I will maybe try to ask KTC. They probably won't tell but they are a nice company.
But in the future i might try it

Hi, i need some help form you

I can choose between two 120mm fans:

1. 120mm,11db, 42cfm
2.120mm, 14db,64cfm

The fan are gonna be used in an standard ll cooling system.

What do you think is the best choice?

I don't have a plog. My PJs is 8" standard desigh LL.
Kiat.

Woah you lost me. What do you mean you cant touch the inverter board while its unpluged? When can you touch it? I mean you need to remove it dont you. I have dissasembled 3 lcds and never been concerned about being fried while handling.

yes, you can when its unplugged... alternatively try to fire up the lcd with it off if you're scared about power discharge.

43USD for a DVD? ouch.

dracul2006: Before you disconnect the inverter board. It can be som charges in the circut.
Etacovda, Thanks for answering
I have been very much school work so haven't got time to answers. Yes the dvd was very expensive...
Now days i can buy a new dvd for $20.

Do you plan to use two fans ? Either two of the 42cfm or the 64cfm ?

I am using 2x34cfm + 1@25cfm at the moment and need a bit more (basic LL circuit with air slot at top).

I would suggest going with 2x64cfm (@14dB they will be very quiet)... it gives you more room for adjustment as you could adjust the voltage down to make the fans run slower (more quiet) and still meet your cooling needs... with the 42cfm's you might be full out on both with little headroom.

JMHO.

cheers,
gs

i'd go for the higher airflow. 14dB is still pretty damm quite. will you be sitting close to the pj while in operation? if not you'll definatly be fine with the higher airflow fan

Thanks for the input, GadgetSmith and comp atkins, your plogs have been a great help to me

I went with the 120mm 14db 64cfm fan. I am using a standard ll
cooling system. Do you think i need two fans?

I am away this weekend so no more working on the projector

Luckily, next week we have two days quitting early at 12! o'clock as to the normal 15 o'clock because of parent conferences... Hope I have been a good student

Edit: Wrote your names wrong sorry

Edit2:

I am going to order tempered glass. the problem is that; if you translate "tempered" to Norwegian it has two menings. Either glass that kan whitstand impacts
or glass that are made for very high temperatures. Which is the one I am looking for?
I am thinking of a glass thickness of 3-4mm is this sufficient?
And just one more question: How much did you approximately pay for the glass?

hei pj,

we need high temp glass. if you don't want to buy, get an old scanner and you will find it in them. I collected two 12" x10" glasses so far from old HP scanners.

fw.

Thanks FreeWilly

Hi everybody

Got my Silenx 120mm fan from Vendur.no Thank You
I have never owned a fan so quiet but still with a lot of
"wind" power Got to get one for my pc


I am still waiting for the replacement lamp from izzotek.com
The French post system is way slow. I have recived all my packages
from Lumenlab witin 6 days. They where even sent with air mail cheapest
option

I am gonna draw a plan over my projector today... stay tuned

Lamp\Reflector Mount Idea

I have scanned my sketch relector\lamp asjuatable mount idea. My lamp from Izzotek, which I am still waiting for . Take my advice do not order anything from France, unless you haven't got a problem waiting for 3 weeks




The idea is to use bolts with wingnuts to adjust height of reflector lamp and to adjust distance between reflector lamp. I am going to use ikea soare napkin relector.
I was so lucky When I got to Ikea a double pack was priced down from $5 to 1$

I have also been working hard on box dimensions. Do you design your box for a spesific distance to the
screen. I have figured out that distance between lcd and pj lens ranges from 47cm to 38cm? With a operating distance to the screen from 1 to 2 meters. Do I have to put in an extra 5 cm of adjustment like it is stated in the guide?

I am also a bit confused about distance beetween, tempered glass\1st fresnel\lcd\2nd fresnel?
Is it possible to buy wood that have tracks routed in them so i can slide in fresnels, glass and lcd? I do not have a router.

Best Wishes

Hi everybody

Off topic:
Tomorrow is Norways national day 17th of May
All the children go in a big parade down town. And I go to the
fun fair

I ordered tempered glass a week ago the price was $50
Foruneatly the glass store had forgot my order so now
i can oder the lx10 for the feaction of the cost

I also got an PSP Value Pack. It was extremly cheap to be in Norway
1000kr $142
The sad thing is that I have sold my Nintendo DS, I did not get to use it so much.
And i love the ability to watch movies and pictures on the PSP

Finally I have gotten around to build the pj case. It has been quit some time since I last where on the forums. The school is the one to blame On Friday, my 8 week school holiday started. Finally it is time for the pj. I am dying to see the results.
I am having problems with the lcd. It wont fit in theframes I make

I have aslo wired my projector. When I plugged the pj in. The whole room went white as a day outside in the winter with everything covered in snow that reflects the sun. After about 2 seconds. I heard a loud bang and then it all turned black. It turmed aout that I had used a to low Amp ratiing on my fuse. I used 3.15A.
The power in the national grid in Norway is 230v 50hz. Can someone help me find a suitable fuse? I am thinking of 5A.

The case looks like a big old containere. But it is the projected image that matters.

I will post some pictures later today.

haven't heard from you in awhile. did you get an image up? what distances for the arc, fresnels, LCD and triplet did you settle on?