I've been silently perusing the forum for a couple weeks now. Bugged Brain quite a few times about a few things. Read through hundreds and hundreds of posts.... and even though i'm still a little wishy-washy about the whole thing... i just can't freakin wait any longer. I did the math, built a screen and mounted it... pics will follow shortly, and my parts are on order from lumen lab.
I thought now was the appropriate time to start my Plog. I feel a little inadequate following all you amazing geniuses, but i'm not going to let it stop me. Here's my specs:
15" Benq 567s (scarfed the only one i could find on ebay)
Pro Reflector from LL
Lamp Kit from LL
Standard Lens Kit from LL
UV filter from LL
I'm still in the market for a thermoswitch and some 120v fans, because i wanted to wire the fans to come on with the one DPST switch, then wait to turn off til the desired temp is reached.
I found a very understandable wiring diagram on this, but was wondering if there may be a more recent better collaborative one than the one i have, and also allows for the use of 12v fans, because 120s are hard to come by at the local stores.
My screen is 143" diagonal, but a perfect 4:3 ratio... i made it this size so it would fit in my living room(barely), and allow me to mount my projector from the ceiling far enough a way so it wouldn't hang down very far in the room, and only have 15 degrees of keystone to achieve.
I'm very literate in the projector field, as i work for a AV Integration firm here in Cary, NC. So atleast the math is familiar.
I'm just worried about the construction and the wiring.
Anywho... thats my story in a nutshell and i have one quick question before i start:
Is it best to wait until the parts arrive before building the standard enclosure? Or is it safe to atleast build the box? I REALLY wanted to get the box built this weekend, but i don't have the parts yet.
Thanks guys, this is an amazing place here.
Dale
Full Version: I couldn't wait.. My first PJ
Welcome Dale!
Sounds like you are well prepared.The screen sounds nice,are you using blackout cloth?
I think you are safe to build the box,everything should fit in with room to spare.
I look foreward to your opinion on the finished pj,from someone who has alot of experience with commercial units.
I am sure that you will enjoy the build.
Good luck.P
Sounds like you are well prepared.The screen sounds nice,are you using blackout cloth?
I think you are safe to build the box,everything should fit in with room to spare.
I look foreward to your opinion on the finished pj,from someone who has alot of experience with commercial units.
I am sure that you will enjoy the build.
Good luck.P
I actually obtained a very large screen from a deinstall my company did for a church. I had to switch out the fabric on a HUGE roller (about 20' by 9'7"). So I got that for free and then cut it to size, gaffed the borders, and put grommet rings in the corners to hang it with. It's still not perfect on the wall, but i'll work with it. A very nice freebie.
More to come....
Thanks for your interest.
More to come....
Thanks for your interest.
Oh and one quick question:
Has anyone had any experience with wood other than MDF or Plywood? I want to use something other than these.. something with a nice grain so it looks nice when stained. I still have the Feonce Approval Factor to contend with. I was thinking something like Select pine, which isn't too heavy and not too expensive... but i never heard of anyone on here using that... so i was curious if it would be OK with the heat and everything. Any suggestions on wood would be great.
Looking for fairly lightweight, but a nice finished look. Thanks!
Has anyone had any experience with wood other than MDF or Plywood? I want to use something other than these.. something with a nice grain so it looks nice when stained. I still have the Feonce Approval Factor to contend with. I was thinking something like Select pine, which isn't too heavy and not too expensive... but i never heard of anyone on here using that... so i was curious if it would be OK with the heat and everything. Any suggestions on wood would be great.
Looking for fairly lightweight, but a nice finished look. Thanks!
B)-->
Oh and one quick question:
Has anyone had any experience with wood other than MDF or Plywood? I want to use something other than these.. something with a nice grain so it looks nice when stained. I still have the Feonce Approval Factor to contend with. I was thinking something like Select pine, which isn't too heavy and not too expensive... but i never heard of anyone on here using that... so i was curious if it would be OK with the heat and everything. Any suggestions on wood would be great.
Looking for fairly lightweight, but a nice finished look. Thanks!
[/quote]
Recommend .25 to .5 MDF due to dimensional stability. Any warpage from a natural wood or plywood can throw off optical alignment. The mdf enclosure with a finished wood veneer that can be stained/varnished.
QUOTE(Dale B @ Apr 9 2006, 04:06 PM) 
Oh and one quick question:
Has anyone had any experience with wood other than MDF or Plywood? I want to use something other than these.. something with a nice grain so it looks nice when stained. I still have the Feonce Approval Factor to contend with. I was thinking something like Select pine, which isn't too heavy and not too expensive... but i never heard of anyone on here using that... so i was curious if it would be OK with the heat and everything. Any suggestions on wood would be great.
Looking for fairly lightweight, but a nice finished look. Thanks!
[/quote]
Recommend .25 to .5 MDF due to dimensional stability. Any warpage from a natural wood or plywood can throw off optical alignment. The mdf enclosure with a finished wood veneer that can be stained/varnished.
QUOTE (bevo77 @ Apr 9 2006, 10:19 PM)
Recommend .25 to .5 MDF due to dimensional stability. Any warpage from a natural wood or plywood can throw off optical alignment. The mdf enclosure with a finished wood veneer that can be stained/varnished.
I'm not for sure about this statement I used pine panels for mine but they were panels not solid wood. The wood is not supposed to warp do to the layers of pine glued together.
check my all wood not stained projector in My Plog
I had to use panels because I needed a 14 inch wide board.
QUOTE (Cold Steel @ Apr 9 2006, 06:43 PM)
I'm not for sure about this statement I used pine panels for mine but they were panels not solid wood. The wood is not supposed to warp do to the layers of pine glued together.
check my all wood not stained projector in My Plog
I had to use panels because I needed a 14 inch wide board.
check my all wood not stained projector in My Plog
I had to use panels because I needed a 14 inch wide board.
HMMMM.... i'm not sure what pine panels are... is that like plywood but with pine? And is it normally available at Lowes or whatever? I saw your pics in your plog.. and looks like nice wood... i'll probably shoot for that. Thanks for the suggestion!
Here's my SCREEN as promised!
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
nice screen.. add a nice pj and you're all set! 
Heh... thats the hard part!
Volts Thick speed CFM dB Frequency
115 0.100 1900 49.43 29.0 50
115 0.190 2300 63.56 34.0 50
115 0.009 1350 45.90 27.0 50
115 0.100 2100 70.62 32.0 50
115 0.160 2400 81.21 34.0 50
115 0.220 2450 84.74 35.0 50
115 0.250 2600 88.28 37.0 50
Here's a list of fans... I'm not totally sure with sound and dB and additive properties and whatever. I thought it was like 8dB is a doubling of loudness or something.. but i'm not sure. Would getting two lowest dB fans be more effective in CFM and dB then getting one higher dB fan?
Thanks!
115 0.100 1900 49.43 29.0 50
115 0.190 2300 63.56 34.0 50
115 0.009 1350 45.90 27.0 50
115 0.100 2100 70.62 32.0 50
115 0.160 2400 81.21 34.0 50
115 0.220 2450 84.74 35.0 50
115 0.250 2600 88.28 37.0 50
Here's a list of fans... I'm not totally sure with sound and dB and additive properties and whatever. I thought it was like 8dB is a doubling of loudness or something.. but i'm not sure. Would getting two lowest dB fans be more effective in CFM and dB then getting one higher dB fan?
Thanks!
B)-->
Volts Thick speed CFM dB Frequency
115 0.100 1900 49.43 29.0 50
115 0.190 2300 63.56 34.0 50
115 0.009 1350 45.90 27.0 50
115 0.100 2100 70.62 32.0 50
115 0.160 2400 81.21 34.0 50
115 0.220 2450 84.74 35.0 50
115 0.250 2600 88.28 37.0 50
Here's a list of fans... I'm not totally sure with sound and dB and additive properties and whatever. I thought it was like 8dB is a doubling of loudness or something.. but i'm not sure. Would getting two lowest dB fans be more effective in CFM and dB then getting one higher dB fan?
Thanks!
[/quote]
10dB is generally considered a doubling in loudness (though it's all subjective so this isn't an exact value). If you add the noise of two fans together you'll get a 3dB increase i.e. two 29dB fans will be 32dB. So it looks like you would be better off putting two of the 27dB fans together rather than running a single 37dB fan for the same CFM.
QUOTE(Dale B @ Apr 10 2006, 01:00 PM)
Volts Thick speed CFM dB Frequency
115 0.100 1900 49.43 29.0 50
115 0.190 2300 63.56 34.0 50
115 0.009 1350 45.90 27.0 50
115 0.100 2100 70.62 32.0 50
115 0.160 2400 81.21 34.0 50
115 0.220 2450 84.74 35.0 50
115 0.250 2600 88.28 37.0 50
Here's a list of fans... I'm not totally sure with sound and dB and additive properties and whatever. I thought it was like 8dB is a doubling of loudness or something.. but i'm not sure. Would getting two lowest dB fans be more effective in CFM and dB then getting one higher dB fan?
Thanks!
[/quote]
10dB is generally considered a doubling in loudness (though it's all subjective so this isn't an exact value). If you add the noise of two fans together you'll get a 3dB increase i.e. two 29dB fans will be 32dB. So it looks like you would be better off putting two of the 27dB fans together rather than running a single 37dB fan for the same CFM.
Welcome Dale.
Doesn't sound like you should have too much trouble with your build.
I'm planning on using oak-faced plywood for my enclosure but I'm going with a BIG cabinet style vertical build. Very attractive quality ply can be had in pine, maple, oak, just about anything. There's also the veneer route but that kicks up construction complexity a notch. If you go with ply I suggest asking around in some cabinet shops to see what they have compared to Lowe's or Home Depot. My neighbor works for a furniture factory and the ply they have is quite a bit nicer than the stuff Lowe's sells for the same price.
Just a thought - perhaps you could build an internal skeleton frame that kind of floats in your enclosure to avoid dimensional instability problems with a solid-wood build?
12VDC or 120VAC fans can both use the same wiring scheme aside from the fact that you simply stick in a 120VAC to 12VDC power supply along with your 12VDC fan(s) where the 120VAC fan(s) used to go.
Good luck!
Doesn't sound like you should have too much trouble with your build.
I'm planning on using oak-faced plywood for my enclosure but I'm going with a BIG cabinet style vertical build. Very attractive quality ply can be had in pine, maple, oak, just about anything. There's also the veneer route but that kicks up construction complexity a notch. If you go with ply I suggest asking around in some cabinet shops to see what they have compared to Lowe's or Home Depot. My neighbor works for a furniture factory and the ply they have is quite a bit nicer than the stuff Lowe's sells for the same price.
Just a thought - perhaps you could build an internal skeleton frame that kind of floats in your enclosure to avoid dimensional instability problems with a solid-wood build?
12VDC or 120VAC fans can both use the same wiring scheme aside from the fact that you simply stick in a 120VAC to 12VDC power supply along with your 12VDC fan(s) where the 120VAC fan(s) used to go.
Good luck!
Yes... 12V fans seem to be the way to go since they're so much easier to come by it seems. I was just trying to get around having another "thing" inside the box that i didn't have to have.
Thanks for the recommendation on the wood! I'll probably go for a nice pine ply or something... depending on the price of everything.
And thanks for the fan noise advice... that is a very intersting fact i didn't know and will help me dramatically.
One more question...
Is the thermoswitch used in this drawing a thermoSTAT? or is a thermoswitch something different? And is this something i can pick up at Lowes, or some other local store, or something that has to be special ordered?
Thanks for putting up with my ignorance....
Dale
edit: i see it uses the word "thermostat" in the wiring diagram. i guess thats what it is! i looked at a few thermostats at lowes.. and they looked so complex. hmmmm
Click to view attachment
Thanks for the recommendation on the wood! I'll probably go for a nice pine ply or something... depending on the price of everything.
And thanks for the fan noise advice... that is a very intersting fact i didn't know and will help me dramatically.
One more question...
Is the thermoswitch used in this drawing a thermoSTAT? or is a thermoswitch something different? And is this something i can pick up at Lowes, or some other local store, or something that has to be special ordered?
Thanks for putting up with my ignorance....
Dale
edit: i see it uses the word "thermostat" in the wiring diagram. i guess thats what it is! i looked at a few thermostats at lowes.. and they looked so complex. hmmmm
Click to view attachment
Thermostat / thermal switch - basically synonomous. Some might argue a thermostat is generally a more complex contrivance than a thermal switch and I'd likely agree.
Anyway, what we want - generally speaking - is the cheapest and simplest reliable way to keep our fans running after we shut down. There are all sorts of things out there which might be used to good effect. What's most important is that the "switch" part of the device has the proper voltage and current rating for your particular setup.
Anyway, what we want - generally speaking - is the cheapest and simplest reliable way to keep our fans running after we shut down. There are all sorts of things out there which might be used to good effect. What's most important is that the "switch" part of the device has the proper voltage and current rating for your particular setup.
I used two of these for cooling my projector - work great, but they do seem noisy at first, but hey I just turn up the stereo! 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?...N82E16811999127
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?...N82E16811999127
QUOTE (Durachko @ Apr 10 2006, 12:55 PM)
Thermostat / thermal switch - basically synonomous. Some might argue a thermostat is generally a more complex contrivance than a thermal switch and I'd likely agree.
Anyway, what we want - generally speaking - is the cheapest and simplest reliable way to keep our fans running after we shut down. There are all sorts of things out there which might be used to good effect. What's most important is that the "switch" part of the device has the proper voltage and current rating for your particular setup.
Anyway, what we want - generally speaking - is the cheapest and simplest reliable way to keep our fans running after we shut down. There are all sorts of things out there which might be used to good effect. What's most important is that the "switch" part of the device has the proper voltage and current rating for your particular setup.
Has anyone bought one of these from lowes? Any other places that would sell these other than the internet?
Just an update for those who care...
Still waiting on my parts from LL.. hopefully they'll be here this week.
Then we'll get crackin'
Cheers
Still waiting on my parts from LL.. hopefully they'll be here this week.
Then we'll get crackin'
Cheers
OK one question:
I have the LL 10x12 UV filter coming. and i'm working tooget a piece of tempered glass as well. It's harder to come by then i thought! But i saw that XL10 stuff... and it was saying that its a substitute for tempered glass, and also provided UV protection.
What should i use?
Just the UV from LL?
Piece of regular tempered glass from AND UV from LL?
Lexan alone?
i just don't know, and i don't want to order the lexan if i don't need it. What works best?
thanks!
I have the LL 10x12 UV filter coming. and i'm working tooget a piece of tempered glass as well. It's harder to come by then i thought! But i saw that XL10 stuff... and it was saying that its a substitute for tempered glass, and also provided UV protection.
What should i use?
Just the UV from LL?
Piece of regular tempered glass from AND UV from LL?
Lexan alone?
i just don't know, and i don't want to order the lexan if i don't need it. What works best?
thanks!
I don't know what works best... but I do know that Lexan XL10 alone works perfectly fine. And I don't think you will have to deal with the rainbow effect...
I am currently using tempered glass and UV from LL. Works great.
But definately DO NOT use just the UV from LL. Unfortunately it's just a flimsy plastic sheet, and I can't imagine it would make too great a heat shield.
I would search around and find out which path will cost you the fewest lumens. No pun intended.
Nick
I am currently using tempered glass and UV from LL. Works great.
But definately DO NOT use just the UV from LL. Unfortunately it's just a flimsy plastic sheet, and I can't imagine it would make too great a heat shield.
I would search around and find out which path will cost you the fewest lumens. No pun intended.
Nick
B)-->
Has anyone bought one of these from lowes? Any other places that would sell these other than the internet?
[/quote]
They are at Lowes for $12 in the heating/air conditioning area. Ask for an attic thermostat switch. Very simple to wire....run hot power to the switch and from the switch to the fan. IMO, tempered glass works best to reduce IR; then add Lexan or LL UV filter for UV protection.
QUOTE(Dale B @ Apr 10 2006, 10:20 PM)
Has anyone bought one of these from lowes? Any other places that would sell these other than the internet?
[/quote]
They are at Lowes for $12 in the heating/air conditioning area. Ask for an attic thermostat switch. Very simple to wire....run hot power to the switch and from the switch to the fan. IMO, tempered glass works best to reduce IR; then add Lexan or LL UV filter for UV protection.
What order are the tempered glass and UV filter applied to the projector? does it matter? do you put them each in their own frame? or do you attach them to the fresnel itself with like silicone or something?
Anyone have a simple drawing of these placed in their projector?
I know i must be very annoying... but i REALLY appreciate all the help... the construction should be coming very soon!
Anyone have a simple drawing of these placed in their projector?
I know i must be very annoying... but i REALLY appreciate all the help... the construction should be coming very soon!
OK... i had a CRAZY last week.. but yesterday i got all the wood cut and frames built for the fresnels. I'll be updating with pictures sometime today or tomorrow....
And if someone could answer the above question.. that'd be great!!
And if someone could answer the above question.. that'd be great!!
B)-->
What order are the tempered glass and UV filter applied to the projector? does it matter? do you put them each in their own frame? or do you attach them to the fresnel itself with like silicone or something?
Anyone have a simple drawing of these placed in their projector?
I know i must be very annoying... but i REALLY appreciate all the help... the construction should be coming very soon!
[/quote]
I would suggest tempered glass, then UV filter... some people just "sandwich" all three together... I personally don't like using silicone as if (when) you need to adjust something, it's a PITA... I use the binder clip method that way I can take my "sandwich" apart if I need to change something. By having the pieces all together this means that the glass will be about 220mm (or so) from the lamp, so nothing should get too hot.
gs
QUOTE(Dale B @ Apr 15 2006, 02:14 AM)
What order are the tempered glass and UV filter applied to the projector? does it matter? do you put them each in their own frame? or do you attach them to the fresnel itself with like silicone or something?
Anyone have a simple drawing of these placed in their projector?
I know i must be very annoying... but i REALLY appreciate all the help... the construction should be coming very soon!
[/quote]
I would suggest tempered glass, then UV filter... some people just "sandwich" all three together... I personally don't like using silicone as if (when) you need to adjust something, it's a PITA... I use the binder clip method that way I can take my "sandwich" apart if I need to change something. By having the pieces all together this means that the glass will be about 220mm (or so) from the lamp, so nothing should get too hot.
gs
QUOTE (GadgetSmith @ Apr 23 2006, 10:54 AM)
--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Dale B @ Apr 15 2006, 02:14 AM) </div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->What order are the tempered glass and UV filter applied to the projector? does it matter? do you put them each in their own frame? or do you attach them to the fresnel itself with like silicone or something?
Anyone have a simple drawing of these placed in their projector?
I know i must be very annoying... but i REALLY appreciate all the help... the construction should be coming very soon!
I would suggest tempered glass, then UV filter... some people just "sandwich" all three together... I personally don't like using silicone as if (when) you need to adjust something, it's a PITA... I use the binder clip method that way I can take my "sandwich" apart if I need to change something. By having the pieces all together this means that the glass will be about 220mm (or so) from the lamp, so nothing should get too hot.
gs
Thank you... that was very helpful. I think i'll just cut the grooves in my first fresnel frame a little wider and slide the glass in with the fresnel and UV filter. And "binder clip" them together... or clip them somehow.
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