I am at the stage of paiting the interior and exterior, wire soldering and adding the light blockers.

Please excuse the low res webcam shots. Its all i have at the moment. Will try to take better shots once I get a real dig camera.

Ballast mounted on the exterior to reduce heat. I can use only 2 x 80mm fans to cool a 400 watt single ended engine with a 6 inch diameter soup bowl. Only lexan xl 10 as heat shield. Nothing else.

Mounting of the lcd electronics in a unsplit design. I cut a transparent plastic dvd case and put that between the aluminum right angle you see. Also using plastic washers some I had from my computer stuff others I made just by cutting square from the dvd case.

with the lcd in place this time. The clip that joins the flat cable is not in place. The lcd is mounted to 2 x right angle L brackes. There are air conditioner filters every place where the lcd is exposed but incase the lcd needs cleaning on the fresnel side 2 x screws hold the lcd to the base with nuts and ofcourse the flat cable lock not visible.

breaker for the lamp engine only. One switch for the fans which will send the live to the second lamp switch only when togled to the on position. The lcd also requires a 12v transformer to run on 110v so this will also be switched on with the fans by the same switch.

There is still the power switch for the lcd which I could not figure out a simple modification so that would be the thin black wide thing on the top which include contrast, etc..... The remote avoids using this since the IR sensor is also there part of the orig lcd.

wider

This is looking through the hole of the intake where the lamp chamber is isolated more or less with the lexan and aluminium you see on the left. I say more or less because its a total seal left to right except maybe a 1/4 cm on top and a small gap on the aluminium side thats even smaller. My unit is fine for temperatures so I dont deal with it.

The intake hole is cut to 80mm round thinking a fan to push but was not needed the way i chose to use the fans. The 15mm thick wood i added to muffle the fan vibration on the inside for nicer apearance.
The aluminum sheet is only 1.2 mm thick.

This is a vari triplet made for small lcds. I found I had to use the wider diameter on the inside or the arc would not fit the lens and i would loose light intensity. So the lens is mounted backwards and I must open the lid to focus. I was planning on selling this here in brazil so was not crazy about this but still a better option.

The huge thing on the right is a 1000w transformer for 220 to 110v since there is no such thing as 110 metal halide kits here. Yup. my projector is not light but not so bad compared to those using wood boxes.
I am curios and will weight it when its done. I m guessing it well be about 25 -30 pounds.

here in brazil its know as a hotel soup ladle. its about 6 inches in diameter. I had a standard OHP reflector also but I noticed this reflector made the light more even on the screen when testing without the lcd in place.

I can recomend this even more so for those using a 15 inch lcd. I was thinking what kind of brightness would I get if I was using the same light setup but a 15 inch lcd. The answer I came up with was the same. The same light intesity is hitting to the sides since its such a large arc, and reflector. I would have a 10 foot wide bright image instead of 5 feet at the same distance.

still web photos but a bit better. Cutting errors. The right angles will be used to make it look more presentable.

By the way the large cutting errors you see were because i planed a intake in one place but was not working so decided to put a fan there instead. Originally holes were cut for 12cm fans but then found a way to use 80mm which were much quieter.

Here is the light kit i have to use unlike you lucky bastards. It cost 250 reais or about 115 usd. I have to use a 1000 w large transformer from 220v of the lamp to 110v of the wall.

lcd mount

cool.
Sorry if I missed it, but what are you using for an LCD?

By the way the Anti Glare was removed using the wet paper towel technique. came off very easy with 2.5 hours of soaking sealed with plastic foil.

front again

Dust filters where the lcd is exposed.

support for the right angle platform for the lcd electronics. Can you count all the error drills?

how not to cut. Here is where I cut the holes planing to use 12cm fans in certain places. Realized the cooling was not going to work and noise. I then played arround for days and came up with 2 x 80mm properly placed fans and ballast mounted outside the box near the exhaust of the lamp.

I will clean this up buy putting structural right angle aluminium around these free for all intakes our outtakes. These are on the second half of the box or the part that has the lcd, transformer for lamp, and stabilized transformer for lcd.

another side view. This fan is blowing cool air in over the back and front side of the lcd. . There is a large hole the size of 12cm fan on the other side of the lcd that just lets hot air naturally exhaust. The hole on the right is the intake of the lamp chamber that is just missing a light blocker. The lamp chamber is sealed so im not putting dust filters here.

The left side where the right angle frame job is the left side of the projector next to the ransformer that puts out a little bit of heat but this hole is just there to let heat naturally leave the box easier. I decided this would be effective because during many days of testing I would leave the projector with the lid on for a few hours then quickly pull the lid and put my hand on the lcd to feel the temperature. After 15 seconds of opening the lid I noticed the lcd was already cooler.

Lamp Point of View.

The left side where you see wood is the 80mm fan that blows cool air in .

Im using something called Booster. Its only available here in Brazil and paraguay. There were 2 people that confirmed this lcd as 800x480. One of these people (here in Brazil) even said that he built a projector using it and can confirm that its 800x 480 native.

Its not. Its a Sharp 7 inch lcd. I cant remember the number but when i took it apart i googled the screen part number and came up with 480x234 . I actually did that after I turned it on projected for the first time at which point it was obvious its not 800 x 480. I was really pissed and even more pissed now because i invested a lot of time building this thing.
I plan on selling this quickly and building something with much higher rez.

Its a car tv by the way with only rca inputs.

By the way, to ground my box I just need to take a wire from the ground pin of the 3 prong input plug to the metal of the box correct? Say mounted using a screw?

Wow my plog is pretty popular. Must be the low rez.