How much light is to be expected when adding caps? I added 4uf to a 55uf cap on my SD400 setup. The wattage increased about 39w, but I did not see any change in the light output. Is a 6% increase in lumens noticable to the eye or since things are logarithmic then that falls into noise? I don't have a light meter so I can't provide lumen result. What is the current recommended light meter? (inexpensive is good)

rearden

You can get one on ebay for around $30. Check my plog for info. That fills the cheap request at least.

Hi AV;

just wondering if you ever tried overdriving smaller wattage lamps (150W). I have just run two 150W lamps on 250W gears and found very interesting results;

the philips CMD-T G12 (ceramic burner) did not light more than 10 mins, it sudenly stopped. Still works though.

EIKO MH-150W 4K (quartz burner) goes 5 hours right now and runing...

Do you think the ceramic buner is not welcome to the overdrive?

I have never seen one but I bet if you get a magnifying glass you (edit) may find a thermal switch in the blinking lamp or a bad or melted weld.


For the size of our triplets would not a 250 watt lamp driven to 350 watts be better? A 410 watt standard OHP lamp makes more LUX than you can get with a 150 watt lamp?

I don´t see any melt on the lamp (turned off some mins back)... It looks like at the beggining...

I had a fan blowing air to the lamp... I don´t think the 400W overdrived at 800W is comparable to a 150W overdrived at 250W... I believe the temp is far lower on the 250W overdrived lamp.

One of the guys had a link to a PDF that had a graph of a lamp driven at different power levels it shows the power /voltage/current vary well.

Click to view attachment

The voltage of a lamp stays fairly constant just the current and lumen change

great pic AV.

check how the luminous flux grows faster than the current or the wattage. This is nice new

Av, so, where we at on finalization? The 1200w light bulb, with what ballasts? What would I use for the 575w? Sounds like I can use my 400w hps if I want to go with the 575w, but how hot will it run? Or I can order the 1200w, and a 600w ballast and go with both the 400w and the 600w together. Is that correct? Another question, lets say the 575w has a life of 750 hours. Let's say the ushio sd400 has i think 10,000? If we ran the ushio at 500w, the lumens would be almost equal, at the same life possibly? Maybe 575w to the ushio, to be exactly comparable? but cheaper

what is the max you can run the ushio sd400dd at?

I don't know what the max is, but I am running 4uf extra on my sd400. It pulls about 40w more. I have decided to stay at this level until I do other things to my projector. The light output is more and worth the cost and effort, but not dramatically different.

Looking at the graph above, the variable which is changing is the voltage, not the current which is what we are changing with adding additional capacitance. It shows that when you increase the voltage, then the current also increases (therefore the wattage) and the light output. I would like to see a graph showing the effect of increasing the current while leaving the voltage the same. A graph which shows the effect upon color temp and CRI would also be interesting.

I have seem some information which indoor growers use where they overdrive their lamps by adding an extra ballast (which may just be an expensive method of adding capacitance). Looking at what they have done could be useful. I think the effeciency goes down, but the light density goes up.

rearden

Reardern: The chart showes the current changing way faster than voltage like 3 to 1 It does not matter what voltage is applied to the lamp it will bring it down to the level the lamp wants. The lamp works almost like a current sourse. We feed the lamps current. the lamp sets the voltage.

Racing: The 1200 setup will first be run with a S51 ballast and a S106 ballast( 600 watt HPS + 400 watt HPS hooked togather) The HTI 1200 watt lamps are tiny and can take 1200 watts so I think the much larger HMI 1200 watt lamp should be able to take more power too. They make a 2500 watt MHI that is the exact same size as mine but with a shorter life of 500 hours so I may try to run my MHI 1200 at 2000 watts or so. I will need more ballast to do that so I will run two 600 watt HPS ballast and maybe a third 400 watt HPS ballast.

I know that a little crazy and I'm going to wait untill the PJ is up and running with the HTI 1200 lamp to see if I need more brightness.


I am sure that an S51 ballast will run a HMI 575 lamp with slightly more cap. I now have three ballast to test with a S51 a M135 and a S106(400 watt HPS, 400 watt MH PS and a 600 watt HPS) If any one want to test an HMI 575 I just need a lamp. The S51 ballast is a lot larger than the 400 watt PS and should be fine and realy cheep. I got mine for $30.00 but they scraced the windings again. The 600 watt hps will work too and will be quiter.

Can someone give me their views on overclocking an Osram 400W HQI on a HMI 575 Constant Wattage Ballast

The HMI is a 95v lamp the SD400 is 110v the HQI is 125v the T15 is 135v

The S51 is still the closest match as far as current goes 4.1A at 110v. The HQI runes at 4.1A at 125v for 430 watts. I know the numbers don't add up but they never do.

I finally got around to doing this mod, but havnt noticed anything different.

I have a M135 ballast with a venture ED28 PS lamp.

stock 24uF, and I added 4uf of capacitance. I even have the exact same caps from the exact same EBAY seller as AV linked.

I also put them on a hi low switch.

When I flip the switch, I see nothing change on screen. Absolutly nothing.

Ive been wiring things for years and I dont think I have a lose/bad crimp or connection. Unfortunatly my meter is at work and I wont be able to check for voltage across the caps untill monday.

My question for those that have done this, when you flip you switch do you notice an immediate difference?? or is it a slow charge, and very unnoticeable buildup??

Scuba,,

When using a variac,, to adjust mains input voltage

IE normal mains 240vac, My variac allows for overvoltage to 280vac,, I run it to say 260vac,, the change is immediate and very noticable,, by reducing is not so noticeable as lamp has to settle back

I am hoping today to, do the full round of CRO tests using variac, to adjust mains input, and record the waveforms and shapes, and invetigate the crest PF,, this is where the secret is in finding out best setup,, it all has to do with the zero crossing of sinewave,, other than the spec by manufacturer,,,
from what I understand changing the values, in a CWA and or reactor type ballast, destroys the PF, and the ballast becomes very ineffiecient, and lamp is subjected to bad running thru bad reignition, at every half cycle,,, as I undersatnd the pressure and mixtures in lamps are tuned to a particular waveshape provided by the core and this is what gives a particular wattage, and outside this range is unpredictable,,, give me yours views,, if you think I have lost the plot

Sim; I bet your switch is toast, swiching in a "dead" cap make a vary large spark. I just had my 15A lamp switch stick on doing a test it was new and only has about 50 power flips on it. I banged it nice and hard and it let go and workes OK now.

Do you have a meter that read cap vaules?

I did say earler that the swich would have a short life bacause of what caps do.

The cap is in paralall withe the other cap right?

You know your power level may be around 550 watts.

I do need to retest the power levels with the true RMS meter but I dont have a ED28 lamp any more.

Yes when you flip the switch the light gain is instant.

Getting ready for the 2000 watt HQI lamp that I ordered I bought second S106 600 watt ballast. Now I have two.

After I ordered the 2000 watt HQI lamp I found out it is a 225v lamp. I thought it was like the 1000 watt and wad 120v. What to do?

I need to double my voltage or by a 1000 watt HPS ballast and try to run it at 2000 watts or buy two 1000 hps at 30lb each?

I figured I could try to wire the two s016 ballast in series to double the voltage from 110v to 220v

I did this and all is fine and the igniter still works!!! I measured 225vac from both the ballast. I ran a lamp for a few seconds and it worked OK too I cant let it warm up because I don’t think a 400 watt lamp will like 2000 watts.

When I get the 2000 watt HQI I will do a full test.

I also flipped the polarity of the ballast to see the power difference this is a summing test to find the difference. I got 1.25vac. The ballast are almost a perfect match. Paralleling two together works well and they make little heat at 1200 watt MSI lamp.

Two S51 ballast would be the cheapest way to run the HQI or HMI or HTI or MSI 1000 watt lamps. Less than $100.00 to go to a 1000/1200 watt short arc system.

So...did Scubasteve ever get his Venture ED28 to work with the 4uF cap?

It's like a soap opera, man. Left me hanging.

AV, what do you think of running one of the 1200 w bulbs on a 1500 w ballast for a new setup

Am i correct in thinking that i want to drive a 575W MHI bulb, i could get a 400W core and coil ballast, say a M59 magnetic ballast, then add some caps to it to increase wattage to around 575W?

If this isnt right, what ballast and cap combination would i need to drive this bulb?

http://cgi.ebay.com/HMI-575W-GS-575W-DOUBL...tem330071473438

A M59 ballast has no starter and drives a 135v lamp. The 400 watt HPS lamp is a 110v so is closer to a HMI 95V lamp.

A S51 ballast with a 14uf of extra cap will make about 550- 575 watts.

The cap needs to be a 360VAC or higher voltage rated.

The S51 will be a little louder and hoter at 575 watts so you will have to add a fan to the ballast to keep it cool.

Well I just finished reading this entire thread, but some (a lot) of the more technical bits are over my head. A quick question:

It seems several lamps have been overdriven with varying degrees of success (re: dancing arcs). Would you say that it requires trial and error to see which lamps can be successfully overdriven and which lamps can not? You see, I ask because I'm interested in overdriving a LL65k. I was thinking a 50% overclock would be a good compromise. It looks like a good candidate to me, with its high color temp (though I don't know how much a 50% OC would pull it down), but you guys are the experts so if there is a better option then I'm all ears.

Thanks!


-Chris

I was pondering overclocking the LLt15 also, any thoughts guys?

, nevermind, cabe started a stand alone thread and i found it. stupid search isnt working right now...

All the lamps are a little different so how much overdrive they will take before the arc wanders is any ones guess.
The HQI have the electrodes inset further than many standard and this makes the arc stey off the wall better.

At this point I think is is best to to do a small overdrive of the lamps not to go over 25% or so. This should give better color for the cool lamps and not make them melt or crack to easy.

Fo a 400 watt lamp 500 would be tops. This is still a nice gain.
The 250 watt lamps might be a little better so maybe 300 to 350 watts.

The extra heat must still be delt with too.

Hi everybody,

It's been a while, but I'm back. Here is some information about what you here call "overclocking" lamps, I will call it "overpowering" (as there is no "clock" in my light setup). Few months ago I added an extra 150W balast to my old existing 400W coil balast, thus overpowering a Venture 400W lamp to about 500W (not 550W, as it would seem form simple maths, but in reality the total measured lamp power was about 500W). This was a very noticeable improvement in brightness, and after this period of about 4 or 5 months, I can say that this particular lamp well survived and is still fine. A glass separating light chamber cracked after a while, replaced it with a new one.

But there is another "extreme mod", which I'm testing since last Monday - overpowering an Osram HQI-T 250W/D lamp to about 400W. I just swapped my old VL 400W lamp with this new Osram lamp, adjusted its position, removed that extra 150W coil, and voila - there is even somewhat more light, than with an overpowered VL lamp, total lamp power is a bit less than 400W (I haven't measured it yet, but assuming lower lamp voltage and nearly constant current I expect the power to be in the range 360-380W), and what is clearly visible to my eyes - nicer colours, perharps due to an almost 100% "colour index" of this new Osram lamp.

So:
a 400W lamp, overpowered to 500W - more light, but more heat
a 250W, overpowered to 400W - even more light, less heat

I've some comparison photos on my home pc, maybe will post them later.
As I wrote above, I'm testing it since last Monday, so cannot say much about a durability of such an "overclocked" lamp.


BTW, I read this thread, seems there is a bizzare idea of this "overclocking" lamps using different capacitors, connected in series. Maybe this works, but I doubt those capacitors would live long, used this way. I think this concept comes from a 110V mains voltage, and different coil balast type (autotransformer one), european balasts are just simple coils, which can be added in parallel one to another.

Regards

I have been using both a two ballast setup and adjusting the caps to set the power level to what I want.

http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...st&p=176208

http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...st&p=177930

I have done some overdriving of the smaller lamps too. I did a small test on a crappy HQI 175 watt lamp here.

http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...st&p=168342

I have bought three of these lamps just for testing but I don’t think there true HQI lamps at all. The term HQI is used to define high color rendering and all of them have vary low CRI in real life.

I have almost bought the OSRAM 250 watt several times in the last few weeks but I'm torn between the 250 and the 150.

The longer arc of the 250 is a better match for a 17" LCD and a condenser lens but you will need a high heat condenser. The 150 watt might be good to 200 or 225 watts, so a regular glass condenser could be used.\

I would rather start out with a 6500K lamp because the color temp drops when over driving the lamps.

The 5000K OSRAM will start to have a fairly low color temp at 380 watts or so.

Pepe,

Do you have any lumen measurements for these setups. Also, I would be very interested in comparison picts.

It is good to see that you have found a way to make your DIY work, considering your previous aversion and disparaging of DIY projectors. Funny, though, even when you are contributing you can make it sound insulting. I wonder if you do this on purpose or if it is just a language barrier thing. If I am not mistaken, english is not your native language, so I can believe that the tone of your writing may not be meant to be as arrogant as it sounds.

Regardless, good work. Keep going. I would love to see your progress.

Are these caps you are using AV, the so called "motor run" capacitors, 370V AC , and look like this?

They have a good selection of them at www.mcmaster.com , if these are the correct ones.

Some caps can cost alot. I have mostly got mine from ebay used.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Used-4uF-370Vac-Capaci...emZ330070458365

The S51 ballast has a 240VAC cap @100C most of the start and run caps are 370VAC at 70C which is about the same rating.

The start caps will hold their charge unless they are across a cap with a drain resistoror you add a 10K drain resistor acros the leads.

A 5uf.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Motor-Start-Run-Capaci...emZ170091611360

For the 1000 watt ballast I need the 660v caps which are harder to find.

A single 5uf should give around65 watts with a S51 ballast which is a nice #
I would not add more than 10uf to the S400DD. That would be around 520 watts.

Ballast get hoter and make more noise the harder you drive them. I have a fan on mine.


Natural Newbie Yes that cap is fine.

I just tried to post photos, but I don't remember how to do it. It asks me for an URL, so I would have to upload these photos to some other site first? Don't really have time for that.

use "file attatchment", in the second blue box below the body of the message.
dont use "add image" in the toolbar, thats for url.

there is no second blue box that I can see, I see only the message body box, post options and post icons

anyway, here is the rough measurement, taken form the image histograms, actually there are two sets of measurements, made for different screen sizes, but you will get the idea of the relative brightness difference (no absolute values, as I don't have a light meter)

first is the comparison of a Venture 400W lamp @400W and the same lamp @500W, pictures were taken from 2m wide screen:

400W: average value 132, median value 137
500W: average value 167, median value 174

that's about 26% increase

and the second is a comparison of a Venture 400W lamp @500W, and an Osram 250W lamp @400W (or rather 360-380W, still haven't measured it), screen width is 285cm, this is my standard screen and I was tired moving the projector, so at some moment I decided to take all pictures for this standard setup:

400W lamp @500W: average 99, median 103
250W lamp @400W: average 110, median 113

that's about 10% gain with a 20% power save

once again, these are not lumens, but "pixel values", only giving a relative comparison, but it's quite linear, af was proven some time in the past by Rox and me

so, as a summary: overdriving a 400W lamp to 500W produces about 26% more light, then switching from 400W lamp to a 250W one, overdriven to <400W produces another 10% increase, one can expect, that replacing a standard 400W lamp with a 250W (and adjusting all the distances in optics), will result with about 38% higher brightness, and some energy saving

regards

That’s about what I would expect from the overdriving of a smaller arc tube.

The real gain is the smaller arc tube will let you use a shorter fl condenser lens for far greater gains.

I can’t find anything about a "VL400" lamp but if it is like most venture lighting lamps it will have a 35mm arc tube. The HQI 250 should be around 20mm.

You don't say what triplet or Fresnel system you have but I would guess it’s the 220mm/330mm standard setup.

With a condenser lens the more intense 20mm HQI could be a lot brighter than a non condenser standard setup.

A 6x9 condenser with a 10.6 panel and a 220mm rear Fresnel and the large 18" fl triplet and a HQI 250 at 380 watts might give around 250 lumens!

To post a picture you need to resize it to around 800x600 and re compress it to about 30k to 50k. You need to click on the add reply not the fast reply and look at the bottom of the box where it says "add this attachment."


My main concern is what happens to the color of the lamp? Some of the lamps I have overdriven have gone purple at higher power levels. A picture tells us something but what you see in real life is a better.


What ballast are you using?

"To post a picture you need to resize it to around 800x600 and re compress it to about 30k to 50k. You need to click on the add reply not the fast reply and look at the bottom of the box where it says "add this attachment.""

No, definitely there is no such thing like "add attachment" on my screen. Maybe it requires some permissions I don't have, or it doesn't work in Firefox browser?

"My main concern is what happens to the color of the lamp? Some of the lamps I have overdriven have gone purple at higher power levels. A picture tells us something but what you see in real life is a better."

There is some colour shift to warmer tones, but nothing bad. It's mostly the movie that makes noticeable difference, some DVD movies are yellowish for unknown reason.

"What ballast are you using?"

I don't know the type, it's a standard 230V 400W coil ballast, lamp current should be 4.1A for a 400W bulb.

Regards

A 3.9A ballast is for a 400 watt HPS lamp.

I use firefox and have no problems posting pictures.

I've added this attachment in firefox, so it should work for you. Use the box below as shown.....

Click to view attachment

to find the picture file you want, then click the "Add This Attachment" button to get the picture uploaded. Then click "Add into Post" for the picture to show in the post. Your text box will show the attachment ID of the picture.

Click to view attachment


I moved the text lower in the text box so that it would show in my screenshot. It will really be at the top of the box.

If your firefox screen doesn't show the same thing, then something is really screwy.

Tgreenwood

Thanks, but this frame is certainly missing on my screen, so I cannot add attachments.

In the meantime I checked the power: 412W total for the whole light engine, so lamp power must be below 400W, as I expected.

To show you what it looks like, so you could see the colours, I uploaded couple of screenshots to another site. Pictures are taken with auto exposure, ISO100, daylight white balance.

I think you need a certain amount of posts before you can add attatchments and edit your first post desctription.

Hello,
Im having some problems igniting my bulb agian after the overclocking a 400w bulb to 500w.

First my setup is a m59 ballast that included a 24 mfd cap (I added two 2 mfd 660 volt caps to over clock it - same ones AV used) my bulb is a 65k T15 400 watt that is sitting vertically. I used no cooling fans on my bulb or ballast ( only ran for 30 mins ) I wired the caps in parrellel.

When I first started it up the bulb ignited with no problems and the brightness and colors were so much better! When i tried to ignite it agian the bottem pole in the bulb just arcs over to the side and makes small blue little light. eventually, after 10 to 15 mins, the bulb ignites and the picture looks perfect. but i know something is wrong.

I took out the extra caps, it still would not ignite. then i tried the bulb on my NEC VT540 (160 watt balast) projector and that would not ignite it (it had the same problem as the m59 ballast). So i think i might have ruined my bulb.

I have pictures of the bulb arcing with the blue light and a picture of my wiring job for the caps.

if anyone wants to tell me or try to figure what is wrong here i can email you the pics

Shoot me an email at derektashjian@yahoo.com and il will get right back to you with th pics

Thanks
Derek

I observe somewhat similar problem with my 250W lamp, overpowered to about 380W. It did develop little startup problem, it now takes longer than usual to get it ignited with a stable arc. Something like 15 seconds, and couple of strikes, that do not create a stable arc, while at the very first startup the ignition was instantaneous. But as I observe it since about 2 weeks, this problem does not progress, so every time it's maybe 15-20 seconds, and the lamps finally starts. Also brightness and colour do not change, so I'm optimistic. This lamp was cheap anyway, and this mod is a noticeable improvement, so I will continue this experiment.

Regards

I have one of those cheap lamps too. Mine is from ebay seller atotlamps (http://cgi.ebay.com/400-W-65k-10k-14k-20k-Aquarium-Metal-Halide-Bulb_W0QQitemZ220042014016QQihZ012QQcategoryZ46314QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)

It said on the box that the bulb could mounted vert or horiz. So I mounted it vert. All the other bulbs I see are either vert only or horiz only. Maybe i have a fake bulb and should buy one that is vert only.

Side note: does the lower the color temp give higher lumens output? I noticed a differnce in brightness from 6k to 4.3k. ( in my cars headlights )

Quick Question,

Could you overclock a 250W hqi with the 400w eBallast? or do you really need a core coil to overclock?

For a T15 lamp and M59 ballast each 2uf of cap will give around 50 watts of power with a little more for the first 2uf and a little less as the power level gets higher.

So your 24uf + 2uf will give 450 watts.

This is no problem for a long arc tube like you have.

I would change the burn position to horizontal for a few hours to help to get the salts and crud off the electrode and move it to the middle of the lamp.

I have just shaken the lamp by hand for a little bit to get the stuff off the lamp.

It is important to burn the lamp for at least an hour to mix up and deposit the salts and metal elements evenly over the arc tube.

I'm glad to see that the lamp made better color and was a little brighter. How many hours are on the lamp?

Yea I do not burn the lamp for an hour or more a lot of times. Sometimes il run it for 10 to 20 mins only. Il stop doing that and try that horizontal burn too.

All that metal looking stuff in there tends to collect at the bottem.

I only have about 4 or 5 hours since I over clocked the lamp. I may have worded it wrong but i did add two 2uf (mfd is that same thing I think) The bulb gets real hot so I just added a fan on top of the lamp (so far fan is not burning)

Thanks for the advice

The eballast will run a 250 but the power level is a bit of a guess for me. I did do some testing with a old black eballast and the rampup power was a little strange. It was vary low like 100 watts and then it would kick in to high and put out a lot more power. It still did not run the HQI 400 at full power.

Is the HQI 250 a 110v lamp or 100v? (A quick check and the venture fc2 250 is a 100V lamp)

if it is a 100v the eballast should run it at a lower power maybe like 360 or 380 watts but I don't know for sure.

We have only seen pepes 250 watt HQI so far and the screens looked slightly off color but that could be the camera or the LCD settings.

I do think the 250 watt has the right size arc for a condenser system and at 300 to 350 watts should be a good lamp to over drive.

Are you feeling lucky?

Yes, I realized the colours were off, but that was because of LCD settings, my previous lamp was obviously lacking some green spectrum, so I pulled green control to the max, and then there was to much green after I replaced this lamp with new Osram 250W. Here is another screenshot after correcting that setting, picture is taken with white balance set to "daylight":



And here is a problem my overdriven lamp developed. As I mentioned it takes longer to ignite, about 15-20 seconds, and during this time I can see something like this:

AV,

I'm not too worried about blowing up a bulb or two, my budget can handle that, but would the eBallast be in danger running with a different load than intended?


Pepe,

Keep me up to date on the status of your overdriven 250. I can handle a 15 sec startup time so long as the brightness and color stay constant and the startup time doesn't keep ramping up. How many hours would you say you have on it so far?

I don't know how many hours, I installed this lamp on March 12th, my average usage is maybe 1 hour a day (sometimes 2 hours, sometimes 0), but this startup problem appeared exactly the second time I started the projector with this new lamp. The very first ignition was instantaneous, the second one was already slow, but I think this problem does not progress.

There is another advantage of using such a relatively small arc lamp (small compared to a typical 400W lamp) - it can be defocused out of the center of the reflector, so "double" arc appears in the projection lens - the real arc, and its reflection, not covered by the lamp itself, and the overall brightness is better, compared to "perfect" placement of all parts. This is what I observed with a really short arc bulb, that I was using at the beginning, but that bulb quickly dimmed, as it was not only short arc, but also short lived (750 hours, and I got it already used), and I had a small reflector, now I have a bigger one, and moving the lamp off the center, I can clearly see as brightness goes up and second image of the arc tube appears in the lens.

Regards

If Pepe 250 watt HQI lives vary long with 400 watt coil ballast then an e-ballast should be about the same.

The main difference between a 400 watt HPS lamp and the HQI 250 is 10V which is not that much. The eballast will make about the same current at a lower voltage so the final power will be a little less than 400 watt because the lamp will hold the voltage near 100V.

A HQI 250 watt lamp runs at 100v at 3A (A S51 lamp is 3.9A at 110V) but at 380 watts its voltage will be higher like 105v or so, which makes it look allot like a HPS 110v lamp.

The big question is what the lamp color will look like and the lamp life.

If the lamp gives good color and a 3000 hour life and a lot better brightness then a $60 yearly cost might be fine.

A matching condenser lens is needed to take advantage of the smaller arc.

I don't know why the lamp would start this way after being overdriven. I ran some lamps just as hard and even harder and had no problems at all.

Every camera is different but the last pictures look great.

What is the exact lamp? Is it a mogel lamp?

I have the short arc lamps now too.(MSI 1200 watt 7mm arc gap) They are rated at 750 to 1000 hours, they are inefficent but for the brightness level that I wanted it was the only way. That is he main reason I stopped going the over drive rout.

If I had my choice I would have a 1000 watt 20mm arc lamp but I have found nothing that is like that or any thing that I could overdrive to that level.

Can you post a picture that has a lot of deep red and orange?