Thanks alot Redrum, thats extremely helpfull

One thing though. What sort of wire should I use in the circuit (eg. like the bit going from the LP on the ignitor to the lamp)? Could I just use some from the mains cable I get?

Yes, just get some mains cable, and rip/cut the outer sleeving off without damaging the sleeving to the 3 wires inside, then use those.

Okay, cool

Now I can test all my lighting bits. Thanks.

Can I use some 10a SPST switches like the ones used in the plans?

Yes you can, good luck

I just need to add here that if you have the cc ballast with the 2 red wires on the left and the black wire on the right (Like Iain - posted above) it is most lightly a "Solutions" ballast and if you look at the little wiring diagram on the ballast you will see that the top red left is (L) out, the bottom red left is 240 in, the right hand black is 230 in and there is one on the right unused, it is confusing, i blew a fuse to find that out because I wired the ballast like eyebaths, but you could just as well blow the bulb if you wire it wrong.

Cheers.

Lets clear one thing up guys...

I recommend asking the manufacurer of whatever lighting rig you buy about how to wire it, as it sounds like a few of you have adhered to what I did and have had a couple of problems. Don't. Only do if you have the exact same gear as me. My gear is still running smoothly after more than half a year of use, no blown fuses or bulb damage.

I only posted the original diagram as I was asked to by a few people.

Eyebath,
I've been collecting bits and pieces (including spontaneous tutorials) and really enjoyed your posts. I love the way you have achieved a great concept and still adhered to the KISS principal. You've shown that you can achieve a stylish and functional pj without going overboard in the design process.

I would do well to learn from your example and stop re-inventing the same wheel.

Just thought I'd give credit where credit was due.

Thanks also to other contributers to this forum.

Holdfast ................ ozzie, ozzie, ozzie ..oi.. oi.. oi.. (Australian sporting fixture cry)

Thanks holdfast,

I see great innovations on this site, some of the guys are getting really creative and pushing things forward, it's great. I worked on my projector until the day I could watch a film on it, as I a approached this project purely as an a/v fan, as opposed to a practical DIYer (which I'm not too hot at!). I would like to one day 'finish' my projector; tweak things, give the exterior a facelift etc. but it's a great, low-maintanence success story.

I might have added more to my projector had I not been so pleased with it. And after months of research and sourcing components, it's been nice to have 6 months of just enjoying the damn thing!

My projector is by no means the best, it was prossibly the first uk one built to lumenlab spec though, and for that reason I worry that people will adhere to what I did. I'm by no means an expert, I just got lucky with mine

Just a note to say thanks Eyebath! I have the same components as you and your diagram/pictures really helped when I wired up my light yesterday


Does anyone else notice that the light colour fluctuates at night? or is it just me - please see my latest plog entry with a couple of example pics http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?a...st=0#entry56699

Hey eyebath,
got to say that diagram on wiring the ballast and lighting is fantastic...you won't believe the trouble i have been through wiring this thing!
as its a uk ballast and an odd one at that most people don't have a clue due to the different US designs. but 5 min and your diagram and i have light and lots of it...still can't see properly(i wasn't expecting it to fire up quite so quick!)

thanks again for the help!

rob

what exactly does the cap do in this setup? the 230V setup i have here in sweden does not involve any cap, it works and its bright, but i want that little extra and the US people just add caps to change the current, but obviously us europeian guys have a harder time overdriving our lamps..

The capasitor is used to compensate the inductive load caused by ballast. That makes the circuit easier load to mains network and lowers power consumption.