It's really a pain to switch my rear fresnel to the 220mm, I'd show you with the 317mm but it wouldn't do the 220mm without precondenser justice. Sorry RR unless you want to see the 317.

True. It's generally a combination of everything from A/G removal, larger triplet, vertical bulb, o-clocking the ushio, precondenser and the Dalite. It's really a big jump from my first projection a long time ago which was really pathetic.

Not a problem, but it's a 1 meg file and I haven't used anything else outside of LL's file loader. Have any suggestions?

Sim,,,its been a long long long long journey

JUST DONT SCRATCH THE DUCO hehhehehehehe

I just had a look at the EXIF data on your images to make sure that your camera was set the same on both images. The settings were the same except for 2 things. Image 2 has an exposure time of 1 second, while image 3 has an exposure time of 1/8th of a second. Now if that isn't an indication of how much brighter the image really is, I don't know what is. Well done!

The other thing was light source setting. The light source in image 3 was set to incandescent, while the light source in image 2 was set to flourescent. I believe this may have some influence on the color differences that are seen.

Wow reet your right, I just looked over my camera and flashed back to when I took the first two. The first two pics were set at 0EV and I beleive at the setting of flourescent. While the last pic was set to a lower exposure of -0.7EV and at incandescent. My bad, I'm not a camera buff and I must have flipped a few more switches than I should have during my experiments.

Well anyways, here's another shot with the camera at -0.7EV and at flourescent. The colors seem more similar now.

Great catch on that exif data!

I was shocked at the color difference in pic #3 as well and came back this morning to comment on it but it's already been done.

Can't put one past these guys!

Sim: This leaps and bounds in improvement you've made since the start have me really confident I can come out with a truly sweet projector when all is said and done. Great work!

Sim: Are the crab's eyes really different colors?

that was after he smacked him in the eye

if you look closely, I believe he is "blinking" ... now that is detail !

gs

By jove I think you're right!

Nice work Sim this is really making me want to find that sd51 ballast now. It'd be a shame to let my precondenser go to waste. Can you remember the size of the precondenser that would work with a rear 220 fresnel>

DM

Thanks for the compliments guys. Looking forward to more fresh post's in your threads and new screenies from your builds.

To DarkM, AV has used the 6"x9"fl from his scavaging stagelights that works. If you can't find something similar then look into Surplus Shed and find the 4 5/8"x 12"fl Jeager's. http://www.surplusshed.com/pages/item/l3539.html

Ok thanks for the info Sim.

DM

Click to view attachmentSIMUL8R,

Yes even brighter yet. A nice difference! The lower legs are a little more visible, and the wall in the background even changed from green to blue. What a difference the right camera settings make.

Click to view attachment

Great Job!

Fulcrum

Boo, hehehe

Aside from working on the HQI light box, I'm also going to cut up this 70"x70" Dalite HPower and hopefully get 60"x80" out of it.

BTW, thanks Fulcrum

Ok, I just cut up the 70"x70" Dalite High Power and made a 60"x79". Seriously, a larger projection made a big difference especially with the gain of 2.8. The extra foot in both directions really brought more enjoyment to our movie watching. It was a bit crude cause there is a seem now that shows to the left if you look for it. For now it will have to do until I can scavange enough loose change for another 72"x96". oooooboy, I'm already salivating.

On another note, aside from work I've been preoccupied with some ideas and plans to build some things. Where do I begin? Guess I'll start with my collection of precondensers. Now these aren't all of them seeing I've cracked a few...some...many...when precondensing my lamp and about 6 of these came from a NEC projector triplet that I had cut up with a dremel. The largest is a Durst enlarger which is about 6 1/4" x 6 3/4" in size and I think 12"fl.

The Durst enlarger is interesting because I just realized I still have my son's 7" Panasonic portable DVD player with it's busted backlight. If I had 2 of these Durst lens then they can be placed on opposite sides of the 7" LCD (which is actually 6" wide) and act as the fresnels instead. It will actually be working as a slide projector would. It's an idea but what do you all think?

Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

precious lens mmmm precioussssss

mmmmmm

Here's another idea and I owe this to Mark's idea on light recycling.

Ever heard of 'Photoblocker'? It's a spray that is used on your car's licensed plate. It leaves a film that is suppose to reflect the flash from traffic cams making your license plate a reflector. Well, what if this spray was used on the fresnels, meaning in a non-split config and spray this on the ring side, would the fresnels react as a light recyler?

Just a thought, but what do you all think?

Another thought is what if this was sprayed on blackout cloth?

This is whats up with my Osram lightbox. Still fiddling around with it.

Update:

I fitted the Osram HQI 400w (rated hortizontal) into my light box but I placed it vertical in relation to the ground. The same 5" Hamilton *soup* ladle is still in place as the reflector. The S51 core ballast and 55uf cap as well. I recently bought the 5"x7"fl precondenser from Surplusshed and for the past 8 hours everything is still working fine. I may consider upping another capacitor in the near future.

The Osram seems to be an old version with at least a 40mm arc chamber and at 6500 color temp. I had a difficult time trying to rid some of the 'ghosting' but centering the reflector just right eliminated this. I actually thought the arc was just to long and the precon was magnifying this but not anymore.

The camera I'm using was lowered in exposure to -0.7 since the Dalite Hpower is really making picture taking to bright when set at 0.0. Bluish but the details are nice including the red's.

Have a look. I'll post some pics of the lightbox and the vertical Osram soon.

Interesting development has occured to me while fiddling with several type of precondensers even with a small aspherical lens, 55mm diameter. It seems the further back I pull the light box the brightess center spreads to the edges. My lightbox has now maxed to the rear providing a total of 250+mm between plano of condenser to rear of 317mm/fl fresnel.

what, no light meter readings! looking good Sim...

I have always liked the way your LCD looks. Your T2 is great.

I see no reason why the HQI can't run vertical. This will help fix any soft focus problems front the far left or right side of the screen. This may be a lot more important with longer than 40mm arc lamps. The angle from side to side is a lot greater than from top to bottom. So the focus will remain sharper across the screen but the vary top or bottom might suffer slightly.
If you don't have arc wander then the lamp might have a slightly shorter life do to the fact that the upper arc tube pinch end will be exposed to more heat. No big deal.

Is your ballast running at 400 watts? Did you burn in the lamp first?

The screen shots look good but how’s the color temp?

hehe, now why didn't see that coming Will do fellow jedi mikyd. I had to many issues hitting me head on for a proper measurement. I was having trouble trying to get the ghosting figured out and .....I cracked a crown. Yep, I bought 2 of the 5"x7"fl's and when I brought the lens real close to the Osram ...POW!.. was even a louder pop then the 4.5"x6.5"fl's. I even tried a 65mm pyrex spherical mirror in the works. Very tricky experimentation when the model is not loosely adjustable. I already have a design forming in my head for a better lightbox.

The 40mm arc just barely fitted the 18" opaque when viewing it from the front. It seems if the arc was to close to the left or right within the reflector then this threw out an uneven light image that showed on screen. Especially when trying to center the brightness thru the fresnels and the arc ends up to far to the left or right thru the triplet. Tricky.

I'm not sure about the life expectancy of the bulb since I don't see any arc wander. But I have put a piece of cardboard baffle to direct the force air directly towards the arc and precondenser to cool it efficiently, I hope

I'll come up with some numbers hopefully on the ballast's wattage and no I didn't do a burn in at first. I just fitted it in, crossed my fingers and turned her on. At first the light was green then it turned yellowish then to white the first hour.

The color temp as you can see on my pics seem to be blueish but in reality not really. As everyone claims the pics just don't do the actual image justice. Honestly, I'm liking it so far. I'm still waiting on the Phillip's 400 ceramic to come in, I beleive the color temp is in the 4000. The I'll show a comparison once I get that nestled in.

Did your S51 ballast come with a 48uf and then you replaced it with a 55uf? I forget which one the ballast called for.

Which Phillips 400 watt ceramic is that? Is it a large shell lamp?

cool, looking forward to it , building a new lightbox as we speak and regrouping plus new project at work is keeping me hopping but hopefully I will be able to jump back in here in a few more days....

Yes, it did come with a 48uf and then with your help replaced it with the 55uf. BTW, I just found the lost 48uf while cleaning around the garage.

The Philips 400w is this one. Kind of a odd shaped bulb.
http://www.lamptech.co.uk/Spec%20Sheets/Philips%20CDM400.htm

Manufacturer:
North American Philips Lighting Co.

Lamp Power:
400 Watts

Lamp Current:
4.92 Amps
Lamp Voltage:
94.4 Volts
Cap:
E39s/41
Brass + Vitrite
Bulb Finish:
Clear Borosilicate

Bulb Type:
ED-57N ED-18N (in eighths/inch)

Overall Length: 248 mm 9 3/4 inches
Light Centre Length:
146 mm 5 3/4 inches
Electrodes:
W coil on thoriated shank
32mm arc gap

Atmosphere:
Inner: Ar | (Ce-In-Tl)Ix
Outer: Hard Vacuum

Luminous Flux:
39,199 lm (@ 100 hrs)


Luminous Efficacy:
98 lm/W (@ 100 hrs)


Colour Temperature & CRI:
CCT: 4057K
CRI: Ra 93

Chromaticity Co-ordinates:
CCx: 0.373
CCy: 0.356

Burning Position:
Vertical base up

Rated Life:
15,000 hours (to 50% survival)

Warm Up / Re-strike Time Not published
Factory:
Bath, NH, U.S.A.
Date of Manufacture:
May 2001

Original / Present Value:
Not known

The CDM400 lamp looks vary good The CRI of 93 is great and the arc tube looks vary thin though it is still 32mm long.

They must have had a starting problem so they wound a wire on the outside of the arc tube. ( we don’t need that because we will never be starting the lamp in freezing temps.

The Luminous Flux of 39,000 is vary high for a 93 CRI lamp The HQI T/S is 36,000.

The color temp is 4000k I wish we could find a 6000k ceramic lamp. I bet we could overdrive a 25mm arc tube to 600 or 700 watts if the color temp would let us. As it is now with the 4000k color temp is little low. Your ballast should be making around 500 to 550 watts right now with the 55uf cap. Will it be pink?

Lets see, a 400 watt lamp at 500 watts with a 6x9 condenser and a good reflector and a vertical mounting with a 330/550mm fresnel combo.( I forget your fresnel combo but the 6x9 will let you use a shorter front fresnel but you might be able to use a 220/600 but the lamp will almost be touching the lamp).
Maybe 300 to 350 ANSI with great color and sharpness too.

We really are learning things.

Mikyd:

59"x79"= 4661sq/inches = 3.01 sq/meters

80 97 73
94 126 98
71 98 81

818/9 = 91x3.01= 274 lumens

pretty decent! how would you rate the picture compared to the original t15 6500k bulb you were using? thats about the same lumens?

So far, I'm liking it. I had brought the lightbox with the Osram further back to 250mm compared to when I had the PlusRite 6500k at 220mm. By doing this the corners are much more lit because I expanded the center brightness much better, I suppose the numbers would be higher especially in the middle if I went back to 220mm.

BTW, how do you determine ROX (vignetting)?

Also, I received the Philips CDM400w just now. Heres a pic of it with the Ushio S400dd beside. It's about the same length but wider in the glass bulb. Interesting arc size comparison.

you average the 4 corners and divide by the center reading....odd looking bulb?

That bulb shape is for temp dispersion with its base up vertical mounting

Sim can you give me a white screen shot from your setup..

take shot from just under triplet if you can, no ambient light, with panel powered off, if your cam is around 4 megapixies,, 1 second exposure,,



Ohhhh and red grn blue desktop,,, no icons would be really great too,,,

Wished you asked me earlier Elky, I just pulled the Osram out and fitted the Philips CDM400w in. I couldn't use my 5" ladle reflector because the bulb was larger then the notch so I, instead, used a older ladle which is smaller and not that shinny to begin with and did not envelope the bulb at all. I'll see if I can accomodate you the next time around.

For now, here's some pics of the vertical Osram and the 5"x7"fl condenser.

Now for the good stuff

Mind you that the reflector I use is not the original 5" ladle which I take pride in as far as getting it as reflective as I could. The notched part of the ladle could not fit the width of the Philips CDM400w so I used an older version ladle which did not encompus the bulb completely, not to mention it is not as shinny as my 5" but it will have to do for comparison with the Osram and the different color temps..i.e. Osram's 6500k vs Philip's 4000k. Not to mention the difference in each arc's ability base on size and type.

I'll hold on my opinions and hear what you all think and I'll add to it. Cool?

Here we go:

....

yep CDM wins,,

Sim do the same as asked with this lamp... Pleeeesee

Looks good Simul8r.

But it goes to show how personal tastes are different. I personally think the 4000k pics look a lot better than the 6500k pics.

But like I say, personal tastes.

Looking good and enjoying your thread as always.

Thanks jonjandran and ditto on your thread as well. Especially your mega sized Dalite Highpower

I'll have to admit I'm also liking the color temp of the Philips 4000k as well. I may have to notch the 5" ladle now to harness all of it's brightness. I can see that it dropped a bit using the inferior one thats currently on.

oooooo, I just realize something here...heheheehe and your probably going to hate me for this...hehehehe

First, you give us some lumen readings from your CDM 150w setup and I'll provide you what you asked.
Deal?

I'm not convinced yet. I'll admit the Osram looks blueish, but the CDM looks a little too pink. I noticed the clouds have pink highlights to them. As for the comparison shots, pictures of steel and blue sky already have a blue hue to them, so adding blueish light does not help.

So to be fair, how about some comparison shots where the pictures have more red in them. How about some screenies of "The Fifth Element" with the redhead? Will these reddish/warmer pictures tip the scale in opposite direction in favor of the Osram?

Cheers!

Fulcrum

There was another pic comparison somewhere and it showed the 4000K looking a lot better compared to the 6500k.
I think the 4000k reproduces the colors as it should look like more than the 6500k.
How come lumenlab only sells the 6500k bulb? Maybe when using a 4000k light source instead of the backlight and then going through the lcd mixes with the lcd's color temperature.

I want a 4000k bulb instead of the 6500k bulb now....

BTW how much does the CDM cost?

And where do we find it?


Regards,

Traynor

I think we are missing something here guys. Remember that not only does the color temp show a difference but the CRI and the spectrum as Elken stated in his CDM150 thread makes the bulb. The ceramics are fairly new and as some of the literature and spectrum sheets show they do offer higher evenness of RBG across the board.

I'm looking at a white screen right now and it does appear to be a tinge more red in it as compared to the Osram which I'll admit I prefer the buish white.

Interesting, this might have to do with the thinner arc but I was able to pull the lightbox forward again. It has gotten brighter by doing this of course. So far some of the pros with a this bulb are adding up.