hmmmm I am gonna have to find a spectral emission chart for that one,,

I working on a new approach to lamp selection,,, and this has been spurred by my new lamp,, which is awesome,,,

never had such a good colour balance before

this is a 400watt cri 65 which only really counts as for its orig purpose coupled with the degrees kelvin 4200 k,,,

( reflected light off colours IE street lighting,, a 6200 k makes reds look orange )
because of its blue push
so they use a lower temp such as 4200 k or mix gases in the outer jacket to compensate

however we are using a rgb colour filter (panel)

I am gonna start a new thread Lamps specs/panels/transmission specs
the real truth's

Sounds great elken.

I'm really curious to know how bright your bulb and set up is coming. Can I ask for a lux reading? If that bulb is anyway brighter I may just try it out. Are you using the eballast with it?

Hey sim, how wide is the opening aroung the precondenser?
Maybe not enough air is flowing over the lens?
Possibly open it more?
Perhaps if you had an inlet vent on the opposite side of the other air inlet for the lightbox.(Outside air inlet)
Dunno just thinking too much I guess.
Afterall you're one of the guru's here.

Appreciate the recognition green, but I'm just still a learner. Just sticking to the basics and maxing them out I guess.

The original vent is under the LCD in front. The air goes in and cools all three - LCD & the unsplit fresnels then exits out the last collimating fresnel frame and on into the lightbox. The problem was that the fresnel's frames sufficated the air way to much for the high volume fan I have installed (150cfm). That is, of course, right after I had finally closed up the main body. Thats when the condenser decided to fall to pieces. So I cut a half inch slat on top and of course, as expected, I now have a light leak that faces up towards the ceiling . Guess I deal with this later. Right now it's 80F in the room and it's showing 85F at the LCD (inside). I was hoping that adding the other opening would not reduce the pressure of air between the fresnels and apparently it's not. She's aworking real well.

Sorry about the lense Sim, I guess its a good thing I have an extra one coming in but if I don't go for the precondenser setup I'll send you the extra one. Hell the 400 you sent me is going to give me almost double the brightness I have now so I might not even bother. I am worried about the extra heat though especially since you lense cracked.

I started a thread on the spectrographs of the lamps a long time ago and no one cared. It is really hard to find a mh lamp that makes any true red at 650nm most make a large spike at 550nm or so which is a nice bright orange. Some EYE lamp had better red and the MHI make way better red. I have a small collection of spectrographs to post if you start a thread.

Sim do you think it's time for a Pyrex or high temp condenser?

Some of the Altman lenses were not to badly price. I have 3 6” high temp ones now that I only paid $40.00 for. Do you want the 6” x 170mm fl one with a chip in it? Cheep. It looks like your running low

har, har, har

Yeah, I may look into those pyrex's or high temps but not anytime soon. Those lens are kinda pricey. I think now since I've closed her up and open another hole the new crown lens will be fine even till the bulb quits working. But hey, if you want me to test one of your lens I'm always a USPS away

sorry sim hehehe

ARIZ yes pls put charts in there,, I need everyone to understand what we're playing with,,,
tis under intell pj section

A closer look

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

The Guy on eBay sent me a replacement for the chipped lens so I have three now. I still don't know if the green glass if for heat control or color correction or for higher heat use.

The 6" lens should let you place the lens a little further away and still capture the same amount of lamp arc. This will give you greater arc magnification so the triplet image may not all fit, but the light would have been wasted any how so the light output should be the same.

In my testing I got the highest readings with the triplet grossly overfilled by about 120% you waste more light at the triplet. With all of the long arc lamps we can’t capture all the light so the question is where do you want to waste the light. I bet you get 50 more LUX.

The chip is actually really hard to see. it is a thin chip. Will it weaken the lens?

EDIT
One more thought on condenser lenses. Any lamp arc wobble will be more pronounced with a condenser system in fact it will equal the amount of magnification X wobble. This may make a lamp that was fine with out a condenser un-useable for PJ use. A large arc lamp will have a lower magnification factor so will show less effect of arc wobble.

I think any chip or crack in a lens used in a high-temp environment is bad.

Just to clarify something, this lens is fine with the 317 or just for the 220 fresnel.

Tempting A/V but, that chip does not look inviting. Hold on to it with me in mind or you with me. I'm still wanting to play around with the 4 5/8" and 5" x 12"fl with the 220mm fres. But, that will be sometime later. I have other business to tend to for the next entire month or so. If your planning on experimenting with them then I will be keeping up with you to see what you discover. The best part about these forums is that we learn quite a bit from each other. More heads are better then one 'BIG' head.

Just more pics for comparison.
Here's LL's test image and then with a 27" flatscreen tv next to it.

you're getting great results with so much ambient light in the room. well done!

With the Dalite Highpower 2.8 gain screen.

With such a high gain screen do you notice any hot spotting while viewing it from different angles?

Well, yes and no. Hotspotting is evident but it's what you'd expect to see naturally in a bright sunny day like for instance the gleam off of sweat on a brow. But not the kinda hotspotting that you'd get when raising the brightness level and you loose sight of the formation and the hue of clouds. I find it acceptable unless someone else see's it differently.

Thanks comp, here's a better view with ambient lighting. I have a 100w lamp on.

Clean up that mess!

You outa see the garage!

It is really looking like if you have 100 lumens on the screen that it is way bright enough. Your not going to watch a PJ with a 500 watt lamp on.

It's only a small chip really. I was hoping you could find out if the clear glass was the heat proof ones.

There is millions of 6" spotlights out there and all of them have heat proof 6" lens in them. And the larger size will let you put them a little further away so they will not break anymore I do think they may be brighter too.

I just realized I was way off on my reported large diagonal size when I reread GS's post . After recalculating with a little help from DAZZ I was actually projecting at 172 and not 240. And yes DAZZ, age really takes away what you had learned back in your school days. It's amazing I didn't build this one in the size of a barn with my current math skills.

Oh btw, thanks GS for correcting me.........indirectly.

I just came from my backyard. It seems I have about 15' to 17' of length and about 13' height of wall area that I can try this out. The exterior of the house is painted light beige. So we'll see what comes out of it. I may try this 3 days from now if it doesn't rain or something.

Label me crazy but I'm so darn curious.

I'll bet it doesn't change the color too much,probally no different than if you had a uv filter installed

Ok, here's some camera settings for you photographic buffs. The camera I am using is a Sony 4.1 Mega Pixel Cybershot, Model # DSC-P41. Great camera, but is beginning to show signs of use, I'm not surprised seeing I've been keeping it quite close and oftenly used. There are 13EV settings on the camera. I'm not sure what EV stands for but I'm guessing the E stands for exposure, so, V stands for 'time' . Anyways the 13 settings are from +2.0EV thru -2.0EV. I've only taken pics from 0EV thru -2.0EV but not all of the 6 below the 0 setting, just 0, -0.7, -1.3 & -2.0.. Setting on -0.7 is close to what I'm actually seeing thru my eyes or perhaps a little higher between -0.3EV & -0.7EV.

These were taken using Windows Media Player which 'sucks' and I wished I had my ZoomPlayer working. I played a bit with the video adaptor's brightness, color and sharpening (Verto 5200FX Ultra) and Nvidia's latest drivers. Contrast is at default as well as gamma. The LCD's contrast is maxed out and of course the brightness does not work in our application.

Well anyways here they are with the lights out and on my regular screen. I figure 'Gladiator' is in order for this comparison:

Here's two settings, -0.3 and -0.7EV. I'm inclined to say that -0.3EV is the closes especially in the darker area around the gladiator's neck.

I agree with the pic settings and WMP does suck. What is wrong with your zoomplayer? Which one are you using?

In most LCD's the brightness does work a snall amount, to about 12 on my BenQ. I do see a difference from 0 to 10-12 but not after that. I believe that it controls the intensity of the pixels.

On the contrast settings, do you find that with the monitor turned all the way up that you have to back down the settings in the graphics control panel? I can't even see the ZP skin when my contrast is turned that high. I have mine turned all the way down and adjust thru my graphics control panel. Guess I will play with it a little more. What about the color settings on the LCD. I have mine turned all the way up.

[quote]
I agree with the pic settings and WMP does suck. What is wrong with your zoomplayer? Which one are you using?

In most LCD's the brightness does work a snall amount, to about 12 on my BenQ. I do see a difference from 0 to 10-12 but not after that. I believe that it controls the intensity of the pixels.

On the contrast settings, do you find that with the monitor turned all the way up that you have to back down the settings in the graphics control panel? I can't even see the ZP skin when my contrast is turned that high. I have mine turned all the way down and adjust thru my graphics control panel. Guess I will play with it a little more. What about the color settings on the LCD. I have mine turned all the way up.
[quote]

Not sure on the version.

Funny you should ask about my LCD. At first I was playing around with the color temp settings on the panel while I was in the garage. I then set it on 'User Config' and it stuck there and now it will not move. Actually the menu doesn't even disappear. I have to now unplug the LCD just to unstick it and plug it back on each time I choose that application which I avoid now. It allowed me at the time to choose 9800k, 7500k or 6500k but not anymore. Strange, but I think I might be able to reset it somehow. The panel's manufacturer's default setting button doesn't reset it. The contrast feature on the panel just dims it to much if I brought it down and seems better when I max it out. I then play with vid adapter settings.

zoomplayer sucks all the way, its too damn buggy.
I recommend you to use TheaterTek, its incredibly light for the pc, and it works flawless with ffdshow

Appreciate the post kv29. Are you, currently, using it? On that note have any of you out there tried or are using it?

Just my opinion...
I like zoomplayer.I am using 4.03.
I tried 4 or 5 different players,but once zoomplayer has bedded in,with fdd show,and DScaler codecs,It scoots along quite happily on my old klunker!
It took a few re-installs to get it going right,and a lot of initial fiddling,but has been perfect for over a year!
Cheers P

Seems my idea of using velcro might have not been the best. I was checking on the alignment of my fresnels and they were off by 2mm. A needle nose pliers and a little pulling on the collecting frame fixed that but I think I'll redo the mount by fastening both semi permanently. The shift may had occurred while moving the box itself from the garage to the rec room. Oh well..........

Well, until I decide on which app to reload or try I'm stuck with Media Player for now.

I can't understand why my camera refuses to photograph the correct color of the scenes I'm portraying. They seem to be bluer than what they actually are. Great camera except for this issue. Anyways, I seem to be getting better at tweaking Windows Media with my vid adaptor. But what do you all think?

Yes I am, and Im very satisfied.
A friend of mine and I had all kind of troubles while using zoom & ffdshow together. Zoom somehow hogs my system, I cant apply many ffdshow filters at the same time because framerate drops drastically. I have not such problems with TheaterTek, which seems to be tuned up for nvidia cards.

Edited: Want to give it a shot? I can help

I noticed there is a slight blue tint to your projection, is this from the projector is this just the camera doing that? (or is just me? )

Its the camera. If you notice in the past pics it seems to do this only when there is not much ambient light but in the day time it seems to be alright.

Guess it wouldn't hurt. Got's a link so I can read up on it? I'll pm you if I have any questions as well. And thanks.

Instaling Theater tek now, Page one

Click to view attachment

I like the part about instant start.

Yeah, I kinda like that too. I'm trying the trial and let you know.

kv29's suggested Theatertek (15 day trial) & ffdshow, show far show good

SIM,

The EV setting on a camera is commenly called Exposure Compensation... (or 'E'xposure bias 'V'alue)... basically it tells your camera to adjust the overall exposure by a set amount. The camera will determine a proper exposure, then it will adjust from it's calculated exposure by whatever the EV setting is used. You camera uses what is called 1/3 stop adjustments... so you have 0 (normal exposure), 1/3 (0.3), 2/3 (0.7), 3/3 (1.0), 4/3 (1.3), 5/3 (1.7) & 6/3 (2.0)... you can adjust + or -. A +1.0EV will change your exposure by one full stop, meaning it will double the overall calculated exposure by doubling the exposure time. This setting can be used to add some manual control, especially to a camera that has only automatic programing.

BTW, nice screenies.

cheers,
gs

Thanks GS for your explaination on this. So the stop adjustments will not be an accurate setting to depict the amount of light that it's focus on then? The reason I ask is because I had thought that setting the camera to -0.3 (since that was close to what I see while in the rec room) would be accurate to the actual image's brightness but when I took the same settings outside the images that were taken seemed brighter. See the following pics I took while projecting on the back side of the house.

I took some shots in the backyard against a beige colored wall, the last one shows the size of the pixels in relation to my finger, I would say the brightness is accurate in this shot. The pj sat 23 feet away.

And this is what I got out of the camera. Which is exagerated, I'll admit. But the image was watchable although I had to crank up brightness and contrast.

The image is about 10 feet high and 15 across. It just seems to bright but this is what I obtained. You will notice the kitchen light which is turned on at the upper level of the house in comparison.

Thats A BIG WWWWOWWW!!!!

I think you will have to charge the neighbors !!!

So when are you installing the poles the speakers attaché to? And have you talked your other half into digging some trenches to allow the cars to angle upwards?

u kill me DAZZ

I am installing poles and speakere I have RV drive in parking, Your not making fun of me are you?

Sim: How bright is it waching it at night with the stars out? OK or do you need need a lot more lux? Is the screen door bad fron a good seating distance?

AV, it is watchable and don't notice screen door (at 20 feet away) but I do see the graininess from the wall siding. If the paint on the wall was sheer white and was sanded down fine then this would make a better difference. Also, if other lights were on in the vicinity then this will of course wash out the image. You can see what the flash of the camera did to the projection when I used it. With the stars out its watchable but not the brilliance you see on the pic. And of course I would luv to have more lux's irregardless

BTW, if this is what I'm getting from just a 400w bulb then your build is going to be spectacular I'm sure.

I hope so.

It is just night time is not really dark and your one of the first to do the BIG screen. Some do say that painting a screen white helps the look some.

Wood siding cut at a angle to act like a mege fresnel high gain screen! I like it.