I get my replacement panel back Friday and this my big build weekend. I built the box and cut the holes for the proj. lens, cooling, fan and power switch panel. i will probably start a thread this weekend and have the fan running and cooling, also. Will keep you posted.

Just a note. Just in the short time I've been a member of this forum I've seen an incredible sharing of thoughts and ideas leading to quite an evolution of this project. I thank you all for the constant posts and updates. Your ideas plus some of my own have led to a much different outcome than if I had jumped in a few months ago.

You're all great. Keep it up.

Dave

FAN NOISE SUPPRESSION...

Just an idea that the HVAC guys use in quieting fan/wind noise in galvanized
A/C & Heating ductwork,
They "line" the inside of the ducts with fibreglass or any other kind of insulation
(thats fire retartant) only about 1/2" - 1" thick is all that is needed to muffle the "wind"
noise. It does make a big difference in the sound...
....perhaps a scaled down version of this idea could be incorporated into a "duct" on the side of the PJ where the fan is? This way you could get a higher CFM
fan and still be fairly quiet.

Just a suggestion.

Peace
-- Carlos

12 VDC 0.9 AMP POWER SUPPLY


Phihong # PSA-10L-120. Input: 100-240 Vac. Output: 12 Vdc 0.9 Amps. Low profile, open-frame switching supply. 4.15" x 1.95" x 0.78" high. Regulated. Overvoltage protection. Overcurrent protection. UL, CE
CAT# PS-129

Your Price: $3.75 each

This is from Allelectronics.com. At .9 Amps it should be enough to power any 120mm fan out there. Here's the pdf spec file from the manufacturer. Specs

Thought this might be of use to someone.
-Jay

It was... ordered one tonite. Was going to travel to Sacramento this week to find a switching PS but this will do. Shipping was $6.00 plus California sales tax of 27 cents... total $10.02

12 VDC 0.9 AMP POWER SUPPLY


Phihong # PSA-10L-120. Input: 100-240 Vac. Output: 12 Vdc 0.9 Amps. Low profile, open-frame switching supply. 4.15" x 1.95" x 0.78" high. Regulated. Overvoltage protection. Overcurrent protection. UL, CE
CAT# PS-129
____________________________________________________________


i am confused....so is this what i need to power my 12vdc fan: PANAFLO 120X38MM CASE FAN W/HYDRO BEARING FBA12G12M??? :
http://store.yahoo.com/svcompucycle/panaflo120x38.html

also how would this be wired??

[/QUOTE]
i am confused....so is this what i need to power my 12vdc fan: PANAFLO 120X38MM CASE FAN W/HYDRO BEARING FBA12G12M??? :
http://store.yahoo.com/svcompucycle/panaflo120x38.html

also how would this be wired??
[QUOTE]

I ordered one, should be here Monday. If it works ok I'm going to use it in my pj.

Yes hendeeki, you can use this to power the panaflo fan, in fact it could power two of those if you wanted to. The fan you have picked out draws .34 amps, the power supply will provide up to .9 amps. (I believe the web site is correct in the listed figures, If you click on the fan pic to enlarge it the fan says .45 amps, but the specs from panaflo also say .34. Though either way you should be ok.)

The fan has a black wire (negative) and red wire (positive).
The power supply also has a black wire (negative) and a red wire (positive).

All you do is match up the colors.
Hope that clears it up!

-Jay

Mo'Tussin

thanks for clearing things up. so far things sound clear... i ordered one.. hopefully you can tell us your results...

Hard to find the Artic 120mm fan if your looking, I found a reseller on ebay if your looking for it:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...item=3833383837

$7 + shipping

i have that fan, it works great but is on the noisy side.

any news on the evercool fan yet ??

I am using the Evercool and love it. Variable speed control and very quiet. I cut a very precise hole and press fit it. There is some resonance and I think it could be made even quieter by gasketing it with some rubber or vinyl the next time.

Love the fan and highly recommend it. Get the black one. It's opaque and with the chute directed downward, it takes care of light control issues, too.

Has anyone tried hooking up a couple peltier junctions to the reflector and other metal surfaces to try and move the heat out of the box directly as opposed to using a fan? If so was it able to cool the box? I am interested in this because if it works then it would be a nice way to eliminate having to move large amounts of air out of the box.

It would take a lot of peltiers to cool 400w....Plus the peltiers would consume much more power and would need the hot sides fan cooled.

Got the Powersupply Monday right before work. It doesn't come with wires like the picture shows. You have to solder some wires to it. I took some pictures of it and made a diagram showing which wires go where. (I havent soldered them yet, they are just tied on there so I could test a fan, also tested it w/ a meter and mesured 12.01 to 12.02 volts on the output.)
It appears this little guy will work out great in my pj!

Pics...

Here she is straight out of the box:

Here's a bigger pic of it...(excuse to try out photobucket)


Here's one wired up and labled as an example.
P.S. That's neutral not nutral, nutral sounds like a medical term for when you have something wrong with your privates.

I'm thinking of getting the Evercool.
Is it as effective as the Artic? Is it any harder to wire up?

[QUOTE]I'm thinking of getting the Evercool.
Is it as effective as the Artic? Is it any harder to wire up?

great fan--easy to wire--but--it is 12VDC, not 120VAC, so you need an adapter or the above 12VDC power supply. Red to positive, black to negative. Wire it so it's running as soon as you throw the main switch. That way it's running whether the lamp is on or not.

where can i find an adapter for the evercool pc and how would i attach it to the adapter???

how would i hook up that power supply? would it get hot being at the back by the light and all? i guess i could cover it with aluminum.

i think i see now...would i have to strip the plug off the end of the fan chord and connect the wires to the powersupply convertor?

Might try something like this to get 12V "powerbox on ebay"
current should be high enough. Very cheap and small at first sight.

Would there be any reason not to use just a bigger fan,
such as this one...

http://www.staples.ca/ENG/Catalog/cat_sku....=,&webid=488077

other then making the opening larger, I think that it would be quieter
then the smaller / faster spinning fans (fan blades are larger, so more air is moved at a slower speed).

Any thoughts?

P.S. Use... N5W3P7 if the site asks you for a Canadian postal code

Carlos

Hey there fellow diy projector peeps i was looking around for a 120vac fans on ebay and i found something you all might like well at least if you are looking for The arctic fan specs:Size:
120mm x 120mm x 38mm

Airflow:
112 CFM

Noise:
38 ~ 40dBA

Impeller:
Plastic

Frame:
Metal, Black

Type:
Ball Bearing

Terminals:


0.33” inches

ebay

Kinda loud. It rates at 38-40 decibels. I've got a fan that's rated at 38 and believe me, it is too freakin loud. I built a hushbox for it, but it's still too loud. I'll have to replace it with one of the 12VDC fans that are rated in the 21-24 range.

Hi all,

I'm getting to collect stuffs for my PJ and I am at the "fan question" now.

First of all, I do not want any high voltage other than the lamp & Co. + LCD pow.supply in my box for sake of reducing risk of fire, shock etc.
Therefore I will use 12V fan(s). But since I do not want more high voltage as needed, I don't want to use a surplus AC/DC adapter, either.

My idea is, that I will use the 12V DC power coming from the LCD panel's power supply. Since we removed the backlight, there must be some load freed up, so it can supply a 12V/2W fan instead. Am I right? (or am I right)

This way we don't have to spend extra on AC/DC adapter, we reduce the risk of fire/shock, we reduce the amount of cables in the box.

Any other ideas?

I was doing some reading about db ratings and found some interesting facts.

Decibel ratings double every 6db. A fan that is rated at 34db is half as loud as one rated at 40db.

A consumer guide recommends not buying a projector whose fan is rated louder than 35db.

Where did you find this fact? Actually, a factor of 2 change is very close to 3dB, not 6.

So, a fan rated 34 dB would actually be 4 times quieter than a fan rated at 40 dB.

Hope this helps,
Phil.

I would not hook an unshielded fan into a regulated power supply (LCD).

Here is some info for db ratings listed for fans. Don't believe them!
The db ratings listed on fans can't be used as a reference. To compare fan noise the specification should be Xdb @ Xdistance, unweighted. The unweighted part is especially true for barrel fans, as most of their noise is lower down in frequency.
I should have listened to my own advice. I just receive an evercool. Although it does move allot of air, it's far from silent, even turned down to it's lowest speed.
I'm not against barrel fans, I'm actually still going to use one, just not the evercool. A barrel fan out of a gas wall heater or fan-forced oven should work if I lower its speed with a light dimmer. The only problem with the dimmer is it might cause too much RFI inside the PJ.

DJ

I guess it might not be a fact, then. I saw it on a guide on how to select front video projectors at Tom's Hardware. This is a link to the specific section Toms Hardware Guide to Video Projectors

It's definitely incorrect. A factor of 2 increase or decrease is 10 * log(2) = ~3.0103, which is why you'll often hear "3dB" used to mean something getting twice as bright or half as loud, or any factor of 2 change.


Hope this helps,
Phil.

Hey guys, I just got my evercool today ! Anywho, I was wondering since its a 12v-dc fan, Could i take say a 12 volt power supply that was used to power an old pair of speakers and use that? Would be dang small. Here is what the back of the power supply says


AC ADAPTOR

DIRECT PLUG-IN
CLASS 2 TRANSFORMER

input: ac120v 60hz 11w

output: DC12V 500mA

(-)--------------------------(*--------------------------(+)

Should be fine.

Phil,
While your are technically correct, your still a bit off. 3db does in fact mean double the sound coming out of the fan, however our ears are non-linear devices and it takes about 6db for a human to perceive a doubling of sound. So your both right.

-Jim

Thanks for the clarification - I hadn't thought of it in those terms.

So the Evercool is DC. Would the easiest way be to get an adaptor for it to make is AC then? Also, would the adaptor then be a plug or would it need to wire into the ballast?

Hrmm, i guess that makes some sense. So .. two 21db fans would actually equal 24db of sound output BUT even though it's actually twice as much sound, to human ears (subjective) it's still only a 50% sound increase.

So, taking it a bit further, mouting 4 21db fans gives us 27db for 4 times the sound output, but it only sounds like twice as much ... while giveing us an actual 4 times the air movement. And it STILL comes in half as quiet (subjectively) as one 33db fan.

Wow ... for a second there ... it all sorta made sense

All the sudden i'm thinking of using the series stack listed in one of the topics above for my output, just because. Can always unplug the extra fan if it's too loud. Staying away from the 35, 40, and 45db fans seams to be a VERY wise idea. Puttig them into perspective, they're many MANY times louder than even two of the quiet fans.

Oh, here's a site with a good technical definition of the decible with the actual values and how it's calculated. It also touches on the 6db difference. Seams it's subjective, but generaly agreed upon? What is a Decible?

I am putting two artic fans in my pj and was wondering between the two of them I could run them slower and still get enough air movement, but is there a way to lower the voltage going to them so as to slow them down?

yes, computer hardware geeks call it the 7volt mod: http://www.bleedinedge.com/guides/7volt_mo...lt_fan_mod.html


Be sure to our hot deals thread for cooling related deals: http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?s...opic=2687&st=20

There is an easier way that doesn't involve the use of a power supply, just run the two fans in series, that way they share the voltage. On 12 volts 2 identical fans would both draw 6V. Just remember if they arn't identical the one that has higher resistance will end up droping more of the voltage, though the current will be the same through both fans.

Hi.. i got 2 Evercool fan and i am wondering if this adapter are ok for both fans (Radio shack adapter with 1000ma)

should i go with lower mA ?

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIt...5750037741&rd=1

If yes i will just need to cut the wire and put together the wire with the fan wire.

I don't know much about cooling fans as far as db level go but this is the one I'm looking at http://www.frozencpu.com/fan-33.html . Opinions?

Those specs are somewhat exaggerated. There is no way a 25mm fan will push 90cfm at 30db...

its a 120mm????

I'm talking about the fact that it is a 25mm thick fan, the 38mm thick fans push more air for the noise because they can push higher pressure.

Hello FYI if you use this fan http://www.frozencpu.com/fan-88.html please get a high power DC adaptor it draws 2.25A!!! a laptop ACDC! converter is recommened but please make sure it is at least 3A (for headroom), Also you would need to join the wires somhow.

Okay you want a fan check this! http://www.ebmpapst.com/en/pdf/produkte/w1g250hh6752.pdf 1130 CFM??

I picked up three Vantec Stealth 120mm fans specs:

Mode: SF12025L
Fan Size: 120x120x25mm 4.72x4.72x0.98"

Voltage: 12 V
Current: 0.08 Amp
Airflow: 53 CFM
Power: 0.96 W
Noise: 28 dBA
Speed: 1500 RPM
Bearing: 2 Ball Bearings

I plan to use two in the light box section which will be seperated from the rest of the projector by the low E glass. The third fan I plan to put in the foreward section and will draw it's air around the LCD. Think that's a good plan?

But at 70dBA this fan would be too noisy for the likes of most of us

Yes was only an example of a OTT (over the top fan) it would be good if the only the front of the PJ was sticking though the wall or if you like big bass films etc Also a lower voltage would cause the fan to be quieter.

I tried the Everclear PCAC fan and it flopped. As you're looking toward the screen, my ballast is in the left rear of the box aligned front to back. I initially had a 120mm Radio Shack 120v fan (rated 65cfm, 38dB) mounted right behind the ballast on the back wood panel. It kept the box a cool 86 degrees. I read the fan specs forum and got excited when I saw the Everclear PCAC rated 100cfm, 23dB, so I went ahead and bought one. When it came, I mounted it on the left wood panel, just above the ballast. Imagine my surprise when my box heated up to 110 degrees in less than an hour (fan at full speed), and not only that, but the fan was actually LOUDER! I made sure my box was painted black on inside so as not to reflect light and heat, and I was careful to keep all my wires out of the way so they weren't blocking the airflow. Everything else was equal, except the side mount vs. the rear mount. Oh and the wind tunnel inside the flashing was slightly narrower due to the reduced space requirement of the new fan. I ended up putting my Radio Shack fan back in and being very content with it.

Can anyone enlighten me? Dgg5252, you tried this fan and loved it. Any thoughts? Am I missing something?