I am going to attempt very soon to remove the Anti glare off of my Samsung 512n. I have done some searching for plogs to help me out with this...I have no clue how I am suppose to protect the ffc's from water that could possible drip off of the wet towesls. I have heard some have used painters tape around the edges of the screen to keep the water from running off, and I have heard of people taping their ffc connections. How would you tape the ffc connectiions, wouldnt it be dangerous when removing the tape afterwards? what do you think i should do to properly prepare for this?

Also which side is the AG on? Would it be on the side of the lcd facing the bulb or the side facing the triplet?

-Kyle

Ok. I'm sorry to say, me and vroom both tried to remove the antiglare from our 512N's using the water soaking method, and it didn't work for either of us. A lot of other Samsung monitors don't seem to work with the water soaking method. I suspect they use a different type of glue that doesn't dissolve with water. With me and vroom, the glue just wouldn't soften, and attempting to peel it off we ripped our polarizers and had to go with total replacement. However, there was one member who used the water soaking methond on his 512N and it worked fine.

So I guess at this point your odds are 1 out of 3.

What I'd suggest, if you still wish to give it a shot, soak the lcd for a full 24 hours, and try very gently to lift the antiglare, if it doesn't budge stop. You can go with total replacement (as me and vroom did) or perhaps the stripper method.

Oh and its easy enough to tell which side the antiglare is on. It will be the side facing the bulb but its easy enough to tell. The shiny side is the one withOUT the antiglare.

Thanks, doesnt sound like I want to try it...I thought vroom did successfully do it with the water method. He had before and after shots of the removal results...

And as for taping, you are correct. Thats how I wrecked my 512N. The monitor has three small fragile plastic strips on the side. (if its the same as mine) I taped up the sides to keep them safe while cleaning, and tore one off when removing the tape. My advise, avoid tape.

I really don't know how dangerous water is. Of course you want to be carefull as possible but I got small bits of water in places where I wouldn't want it. Just let it dry out. Worked fine the next day.

Yeah thats when he removed the antiglare and replaced the polarizer. If you don't have another lcd perhaps you should consider total replacement. (costs money for the polarizer) but all those who have removed their antiglare claim it is "necessary" and that everyone MUST do it.

I had attempted the antiglare removal with my 512n also and was unsuccessful. That makes it 1 out of 4 now. I soaked it for a while and then tried to pull off the antiglare. I was stupid and ripped up about a 2 inch triangle of the polarizer thinking maybe it was antiglare. Don't do that. I was able to take the antiglare off of the little pieces I ripped off and then I taped them back on. The contrast is better in that area, but the rest of the screen is normal. I wish I hadn't attempted the removal.

Kyle,

I ended up with no way out except replacing the polarizer. The water soak just didn't work for me. I tried for ~16 hours and the AG wasn't coming off. Then I waited an additional 24 hours, soaking at all times so it was always wet, but the AG just wouldn't separate. I know everyone says "If it doesn't lift up effortlessly, stop." I didn't take this to heart, and ended up ruining my original polarizer.

As far as how to do it, you'll want to be very particular about getting the paper towels to the very edge of the AG, but not past it. You won't need to tape anything off as long as you don't dump too much water at once on the paper towels.

That said, I wouldn't try it again with a 512N. Maybe it was the fact that my projector has been running for many months prior to attempting AG removal. At any rate, I think Samsung just makes solid panels. I've done so many things that should have killed the monitor but didn't, including dropping it from chest height immediately after stripping it and watching it slide across the garage floor. If that isn't a testament to quality, I don't know what is. (Luckily I had something covering the screen to avoid scratching)

To my knowledge, nobody has tried stripper on the 512N. That might be worth trying, otherwise you may want to do full polarizer replacement. Or just be content with your panel and try to improve in other areas for now.

I think im going to deal with it. I really dont want to be the guini pig that tries the stripper method with the 512 n. Thanks for the info everyone.

-kyle

Is their any harm in trying to soak the lcd , as long as i dont try to force the ag off? what would be the best corner to start at when peeling (i assume not by the polarizers...)? I am thinking about trying it, its wierd that rpearsey did it so easily...

-kyle

There wasn't any damage to my lcd from soaking, it was only damaged by me overzealously peeling back the antiglare. Just make sure you don't put soo much water on it that it goes off onto the ffc's. As far as which corner to start at, I don't think it makes a difference. My preference might be the the corner that is displayed in the upper right as you project it onto the screen. That way, if something gets messed up there somehow, then you might not be able to see it in widescreen movies. Also in XP you don't have the time in that corner and you wouldn't usually have icons there.

If you try this remeber that antiglare is very thin. If is is at all thick, stop, you are pulling on the polarizer. By thick, I mean thicker than a thin sheet of paper. That was where I was stupid.

Good Luck.

Im thinking of soaking a corner as a test run to see if it will even have a chance of coming off. is that a good idea instead of soaking the entire lcd area and not having any luck...?

I don't think there's any need to be especially paranoid about getting water on the ffc's. Use deionized water for anything like this, as it's more pure and won't leave a residue when it dries. Even if you get things wet, the panel doesn't have power - it won't short. Like other people said, let it dry and it'll work. I've seen countless electronics act this way - my cell phone has been swimming more than a few times, and my digital camera has come back from a few watery graves as well.

Ah yes, Tom's Hardware Guide did a wacky thing the other day - if you want proof that water doesn't kill electronics on contact (good for confidence if nothing else):

Tom's hardware fluid cooling

They tried DI water first, but it killed the computer after a little while - but after draining the water and letting it dry, it was just like new.

where can i get some deionized water, we have a well so i doubt that would be ok.

most grocery stores sell it by the gallon. Distilled water is pretty much the same thing, but DI water is filtered a bit more.

Distilled water from the grocery store.

The biggest thing about "just testing" the water soak method is restraint. There can be confusion about whether you're looking at AG or polar, and it was almost always polar in my case. Only until AFTER I was SURE that I was peeling up AG, did I realize that it wasn't just AG.

I'm not the kind of guy that just gives up, especially when I had to completely disassemble my projector and LCD frame to "just try" the water soak. So I got a little extreme. Try to always leave yourself a way out if things go bad.

[quote I am thinking about trying it, its wierd that rpearsey did it so easily...


[/quote]


no its not wierd even when panels share the same part # very often they were made in different places. mabye he just got lucky? maybe on that pallet of lcd's they tried something new.

It happens.

good luck Brian kc0kfg

I have a Samsung 540n and removed mine rather easily. It had not soaked for more than an hour when I was able to pull up a corner and it all came off in one piece.

For what it is worth, I didn't notice a great difference from doing it.

It may be like the others have said that the 512 doesn't like to be pulled, but if you still care to do it, this is how I pulled mine.

I put my ldc on the kitchen countertop, covered my ctrl boards with a small towel on each side.

I taped the lcd from the thin black edge that is not the screen to the towels.

I then heavily soaked about 10 paper towels and placed them on the screen and covered it all with gladlock press and seal to the counter, pressing out the air on top of the towels.

after an hour I went to check on it just to see how it was doing and as I picked at the edge it started to come up. used a pearing knife to pullit up and put a wet paper towel under the corner and pushed it forward under the screen as I pulled it off.

The water had soaked through the tape and towel and when I picked up my lcd the ctrl boards were dripping. I dried them off let it set for a few, then pluged it up to see if it still worked and everything was golden.

I do have what looks like salt deposits on the board, but everything still works fine.

hey guys,

i'm going to get a samsung 510n and attempt to remove the anti-glare on that

do you think there will be much of a difference from the 510n to the 512n model?

Just curious. Did you use tap or distilled water?

Ok, im back to this post again. I am not happy with the brightness of my projector. How much are the polorizer sheets if i do indeed screw it up on my 512n? I guess I will try the soaking method..

-Kyle