Antiglare (ag) Removal Attempts By Lcd Type & Method, READ POST 1! Please provide information stated on first page Options

[donkeytech]

AG Removal Method: STRIPPING
LCD: Samsung 510M-S
Stripper: Klean Strip KS-3

Summary:
Roughly 5 applications of stripper over 6 hour period, and quite a bit of cleanup with denatured alcohol. VERY pleased with results as everyone else has indicated - Significant increase in brightness and contrast!

Process:
- removed panel from PJ and frame
- setup panel on level surface
- did not mask anything, but absolutely recommend doing so
- did not prep sand at all
- brushed thick layer of stripper and waited nearly 1 hour, ensuring no contact to FFCs or runoff
- scraped with plastic scraper without downward pressure
- repeated process until all trouble spots, particularly edges, were removed
- cleaned with denatured alcohol
- returned to frame and PJ and, of course, nervously tested.

Associated Damage (sorry - no photos):
- very minor scratches to polar from scraper or paper towel - no impact to image
- 2 pea-sized spots on polar edge where polar seemed to be seperating from panel - no impact to image (because it's on the edge). Most likely due to stripper reaching polar edge.

Thanks LL Pioneers!

 1.jpg ( 27.07K ) Number of downloads: 369


This post has been edited by donkeytech: Nov 5 2005, 01:49 AM

[andysharifi]

Panel:
Westinghouse 15" LCD. Same as CMV models.

Stripper: KleanStrip KS-3 Premium
Summary:
I did about 5 applications over a 3 hour period, then used alot of denatured alcohol to clean up the mess. It was all in all a messy job. But worked. I only took off enough AG for a widescreen, so there is still some AG on the very top and very bottom. I only fully masked off the sides of the screen before stripping
Process:
- masked the sides only
- sanded the screen very lightly with coarse 220
- brushed thick layer of stripper and waited nearly 30min.
- scraped with plastic scraper without downward pressure
- repeated process until all trouble spots, particularly edges, were removed
- cleaned with denatured alcohol

Results:
I have a picture in the screen forum, but the biggest improvement was contrast. The color saturation is immensely improved. The brightness does improve on top of an already crazy High Power screen. I would guess i'm in the territory of around 400-500 lumens with the mod and the high power screen. Certainly showes its true colors on movies and games, and browsing the internet is a whole new experience when everything is so much more colorful.

No one will every have a finished projector if they don't strip their screens, its holding you back THAT MUCH!!!

[Dr Lazy]

panel: CMV 720d 17"

specs: 500:1 1280X1024 8ms 16.7M Colours

Method:Rag soak

process:

1)I sat the LCD at an angle so any excess water would drain away from the FFC's and electronics
2)layed 2 paper towels, to completely cover the ag
3)Gently poured water on to the paper towels untill completely soaked
4)Removed all the air bubbles
5)I waited about an hour then lifted the ag up at one corner with a scalpel (not recommended) and made sure it was the ag and not the Polarizer. (The ag Should look clear the polarizer looks black when you look through it) The Ag was still a bit stciky so I let it soak for 2 more hours. After which it came up easily.
6)I let the LCD dry out for a day before I put it back in its frame However I noticed the LCD was still tacky so I wet a lens cloth and wiped the lcd down a couple of times to remove any left over adhesive untill the water on the lcd surface started to form little droplets.

Damage:
None.

Positive results:
-The picture is much brighter
-The colour has a lot more punch its allmost as good as a plasma. I no longer have to play with the saturation. I think this result alone makes this mod worthwhile.
-Better contrast. Black is now alot blacker. Before I had a lot of light leakage in the middle of my screen this is now gone.
-I Can see a clear image of my light arc on the triplet. Which will be useful for testing how well a reflector works.

Negative results:
-The fresnel lines are more noticable. I had to move the fresnel Quite A bit further away from the LCD.

[mikelish]

panel: ACER AL1714

specs: 350:1 1280X1024 8ms 16.7M Colours

Method:Rag soak

process:

1) layed on a pizza box (crucial)
2) put wet paper towels on
3) drank some beers (almost as crucial as step 1)
4) waited for approx 6-7 hours then peeled the anti glare off in 3 sections
5) cleaned up the weird residue with a bit of water
6) let dry

Damage:
None. I did leave a small 1/2inch border along the top of the screen just so i can look back when complete at the gain of stripping the anti glare. I used a 16:9 screen and all 16:9 sources so i will never see it outside of that test.

Positive results:
-I can see through the panel now


Negative results:
-dont know yet, havnt finished building the projecter and never viewed it with the antiglare

[mikelish]

panel: CMV-520D

specs: 500:1 1024X768 16ms 16.7M Colours

Method:complete polarizer removal

process:

1) Removed the polarizer very slowly, using a plastic knife and putty knife at times to not crack the glass


Damage:
None. Later i ended up dropping something on an FFC and dented the ribbon cable just enough to net myself a nice white column

Positive results:
-looked better even with the cheap surplus shed polarizer i pieced together
-the 3dlens polarizer i got was of much higher quality and had a higher transmission based on my overhead projecter testing, never got to try it though, bought the 17 inch above


Negative results:
-white line, not due to the strip but another accident

[Shrivel]

LCD: Benq 567v2

Removal method: Wet paper towel on top of AG polarbear for a couple hours to make it more pliable. Peeled off the entire polarbear (polarizer and AG) in a single sheet. It came off relatively easily. Small amount of adhesive left at the bottom of the panel, but I loosened that up with some nail polish remover and elbow grease. Wipe clean with nail polish remover and the panel was spot-free. Whole process took maybe 30 minutes.

Ordered non-adhesive polarizer from 3Dlens.com and taped it on the LCD.


Positives: Wow.Just wow. I've had my PJ for a year now and have been very satisfied - it is my main display in my home. This mod made it a totally new experience. Colors are amazing. Noticeably brighter and better contrast. Focus is even improved across the entire screen. Have I said "wow" yet?

Negatives: the replacement polarizer sheet was expensive (80 dollars with shipping), but it was totally worth it. Also a bit of positive feedback for 3dlens.com: I ordered the polarizer on Monday and it shipped all the way from Taiwan to my home in Georgia by Thursday morning.

This should not be considered an "Extreme Mod." This should be required for every PJ builder.

[Rhino17]

Panel: BENQ FP591 15" LCD

Method:Rag™ soak

process:

Put three layers of wet paper towel on lcd, and left for five hours. Used a razor blade to pull up corner, and continued to pull up the a/g. It came off in 10 pieces, because the edges were still stuck to the lcd, and had to be separated with a razorblade. Cleaned up lcd with additional water and rubbing alcohol.

Result:

Even in a projector with poorly aligned optics, the image is brighter and sharper than before. The PJ in now being rebuilt for more exact adjustment of lenses.

This can be an extremely easy modification if you take your time, or a distaster if you rush it. Patience is definately a virtue in this one.

Rhino

[Yoder808]

This is a log of my friends PJ i talked him into doing, as I haven't built mine yet.
PJ: Standard Optics(split fresnels), LL light kit, polished bowl reflector, Nextvision N6
Panel: CMV CT-529A

Method:Rag™ soak

process:
Places several layers of paper towels on lcd, cut to fit. Applied a healthy amount of tap water to towels, and soaked for 3 1/2 hours, watering every hour, then attempted to pull up AG with fingernail. AG lifted off corner, and was pulled of as a whole, leaving behind quite a bit of residue. The remaining residue was cleaned primarily with water, then 70% iso alcohol.

Result:
The LCD is now like a "tinted piece of glass". No defusion of light, just a dark tint. The Projector is casting on a silver painted sheet, 120" diag image. Brightness was increased GREATLY, colors are more vivid. Recommended to ANYONE(at least with a CMV CT-529a).
Pro's- +Much better brightness
+Better colors
+Slightly better focus
Con's -Rear fresnel rings showing on screen, VERY slight. Will move rear fresnel back 1/8" to compensate.
Summation- Should be a REQUIRED mod. Stipping the LCD is more "extreme" than this was. The only thing extreme was the waiting and nail biting. This should be in the guide(with a warning of course).
Brandon
P.S.- He ordered a 8x6 Da-Light High Power. Should arrive on 11/18/05. That will be sweeeet sweeeet nectar.

This post has been edited by Yoder808: Nov 12 2005, 05:02 AM

[Dweezilkid]

SAMSUNG 150MP LCD-TV
15”, 1024x768, 300:1, 25ms, 70 Hz

Method: STRIPPER (Klean Strip KS-3 Premium)
Removed antiglare on 11/12/05


1. Masked panel (in frame) with masking tape. I’d strongly recommend removing it from the frame (see “the bad” below)

2. Sanded with 220 grit sandpaper. Very light sand, took about ten minutes.

3. Applied stripper. If I had to do it again, I’d be even more liberal with the goo. It’s VERY easy to work with. And yes, corners can be a pain.

4. Waited 30 minutes. Scraped with NO downward pressure. I was amazed how easily it came off!

5. I used three more coats of stripper, waiting 15 minutes each. Total time to strip / clean approx. 2 ½ hours

6. Cleaned up all stripper residue with isopropyl alocohol and cotton squares. Did a ‘final polish’ with lens paper and lens solution.

7. Waited about an hour to make sure it was dry, replaced the sled, crossed fingers and fired up.

THE GOOD

It’s still daytime, so I can’t really tell what I’ve got. But even daytime viewing seems a little brighter, and the colors REALLY pop. I’ll post nighttime pics when it's dark.

THE BAD

None, really. This stuff was really easy to work with. As long as you’re as careful as you were during the initial LCD strip, it’s a piece of cake. I think the sanding was really important. My only downside is that I’ve got visible antiglare lines… only because I masked the LCD while it was still in its frame. I’ll clean that up in the future.

11/20/05 EDIT: I cleaned up my AG side and removed the front TAC as well. Sharpness, color and contrast are awesome!!!

This post has been edited by Dweezilkid: Nov 21 2005, 01:14 AM

Attached File(s)

 Antiglare.jpg ( 96.76K ) Number of downloads: 357

 

[Dweezilkid]

Here's a comparison... same camera settings.

- Definately brighter
- Definately better contrast
- Most of all, definately better color and sharpness

I'll need to go back and change my ffdshow settings. It's not 'too sharp' in real life; I think the photo exaggerates it. But I'm pretty pleased. Crazy props to Simul8r and crew!

This post has been edited by Dweezilkid: Nov 13 2005, 06:30 PM

Attached File(s)

 Compare.jpg ( 104.78K ) Number of downloads: 324

 

[Darkwin2k]

Monitor: Westinghouse 15"
Specs: 450:1 Contrast ratio, 16ms Response time
Method used: Rag Soak
Date: November 14th

Left paper towel soaking on panel for about 2 1/2 hours. Edge came up easily with fingernail. Took off half of the A/G layer on first pull. Remaining came off in about 3 pieces. Cleaned up remaining glue with water and alcohol.

Results:

Display image is noticibly brighter and colors are more crisp. I can now watch my projector with a 60 watt light on in the room without feeling the screen is too washed out.

This was very easy for this monitor. I would also have to agree with earlier posts. If you have not done this mod you are not seeing how good your projector can look.

[scoodidabop]

Benq 567 v2
Rag technique

I left the wet paper towels on the lcd for about 8-9 hours. The anti-glare came up really easily with no damage whatsoever to the polarizer.

EVERYONE SHOULD DO THIS.

Improved brightness by about 20%, contrast and sharpness.

Pics soon.

[tmproff]

CMV 529-A
Rag Technique
Date Nov 14th

I removed the panel from my projector that I have been running for almost a year. I was worried that the film would be "baked" onto the screen and not come off.

1. First off, it's very easy to know which side has the AG on it...it's the one that is kinda blurry/soft (that was another worry of mine, which side was the AG on)
2. I laid a towl down on my kitchen table and then laid the panel with the AG facing up.
3. I laid some paper towels on the panel and used a sponge to wet them making sure that the towels didn't overlap onto the electronics.
4. I waited about 4 hours (went to dinner)
5. Using my fingernail, I was easily able to pull up an edge of the AG and pull the entire thing off in one piece.

Literally, pulling up the AG took less than a minute, and I had no fears during the process of damaging the panel.

THIS IS SOMETHING EVERYONE WITH THE CMV-529 SHOULD DO!!!

Contrast / Brightness are extremly improved. I am able to very slighly see my fresnels, but moving them a short distance away from the panel should solve this.

This post has been edited by tmproff: Nov 15 2005, 02:16 PM

[SonicWonder2000]

PANEL: BenQ 567v2
METHOD: Rag Method / distilled water
TIME: 4 Hours
DATE: 11/14/05

Ragged per Mark's instructions. Used "ready-wipes" (easy to cut straight) to rag the panel. Made sure to PRE-WASH the ready-wipes because, although dry, they seem to be impregnated with some type of detergent. Layed over the panel, waited 4 hours (no reload of water). Pried edge up with a razor (the very corner of this panel is not in the active matrix area so I wasn't afraid of marring the PVA. Sheet came off in one big pass except for the very corners. Re-pried and lifted with corners with the razor.

OUTCOME

BRIGHTNESS: this is going to be a contraversial statement, but to my eyes, there is almost NO change in absolute brightness. My pj was plenty bright before, it is still plenty bright.

CONTRAST: The contrast was most certainly improved. The whites are now whiter (true white, not just a light grey), and the blacks seem to also be blacker!

SHARPNESS: No contest. The sharpness is VASTLY improved by this mod. Pixels were visible before, but they are much more sharply defined now. The borders between pixels are much clearer and I can actually distinguish 1 pixel spaced horizontal and vertical line patterns from a distance.

COLOR: OH MY FREAKIN' GAWD - HERE'S WHERE THIS MOD ROCKS. The color saturation is improved 300%. The colors are now much truer - yellow is REAL yellow, not a greyish-greenish-yellow. Red is bright and vibrant, not dark and muted. Green looks vibrant and alive And blue becomes almost iridescent. It is as if a light grey film of haze was lifted off the image. I am no longer needing to crank color saturation or use gimmicks like "cinema enhancement" to get the colors to where they should be. The result of this improvement in color is a vast *percieved brightness enhancement* even if the actual brightness boost minimal.

I noticed some time ago that color saturation might be even more important than actual brightness. When I used to watch my pj during the daytime (rare) I used to crank the color saturation to 200% to make the image watchable. This mod nullifies the need for that.

In dark scenes, it was always a peeve of mine that if I cranked the gamma high enough to view the shadow detail, the colors would wash out and the image would loose impact. I would have to raise the contrast and color saturation to compensate, thus "burning out" fine detail. The pj is a lot more tolerant to raising gamma without washing out, now.

SUMMARY: If you haven't done this mod yet, you are missing out on what your pj could be.

THE BAD: okay, along with the good, comes some bad. My fresnel lines are MUCHO visible and very distracting. Elken sent me a pm about how moving the field fresnel closer may compensate but so far, I am without luck in that endeavor. Can someone who has a greater optics knowlege than me please advise me on how to shift the "LCD virtual image" away from the collimating fresnel without needing to re-design my sled?? In my design, the collimating fresnel LCD separation are fixed to spec.

This post has been edited by SonicWonder2000: Nov 15 2005, 07:07 PM

[pun15her]

PANEL: Benq 567v2
Method: Rag soak/tap water
Time:2hours
Date:13/11

Normally I am a patient guy,but...
I bought a non working 17" lcd from e-bay.It turns out it is in fairly bad condition,so I steamed in...
Placed dry towell under lcd,placed another towell ontop of lcd.Soaked towell with tap water.Waithed 2 hours,could only get a small corner up,before the ag tore.Hmm,I thought and promptly got my wifes hairdryer out,heated up the surface,and pulled.I got the ag,the polarizer and everything else up,in one go!!


Not to be beaten,I promptly stripped my pj,placed the lcd between the 2 towells,and waited another 2 hours.I then made sure,using a craft knife,that I only pulled the ag,and pulled it cleanly off in one piece,no probs.I then got cheeky and went right on and removed the TAC from the rear of the lcd too,which came off even easier than the ag.Cleaned the slight milky residue with more tap water,dried overnightand put the whole lot back together.Like I said I am normally a fairly patient guy,I guess I was a bit stressed out at the weekend!!

I will reserve judgment on results for now,as all I have done is a test firing,just to make sure it all worked.It did! I will edit post when conclusions have been made,suffice it to say that I immediateley noticed the sharpness of the image was improved significantly.
No fresnel lines though.

[jonjandran]

PANEL: Viewsonic VA550
LCD Panel: Acer L150X2M
Method: Rag soak/tap water
Time:3 hoursper side
Date: November 16


Used the "Rag Soak" method. Left it on for 3 hours. Ani-glare peeled right up.
Flipped the panel over and left the wet rags on for 3 hours. The rear Tac peeled right off.
It then took me about 30 minutes per side to get the adhesive off using a wet rag.
De-Natured Alcohol and Acetone wouldn't take the adhesive off.

No Pros or Cons because this was just a test panel and it has an FFC issue anyway.

(Merged by SupraGuy)
Well on the LCD Board it says: Acer L150X2M
Is that it?

This post has been edited by jonjandran: Nov 16 2005, 03:05 PM

[jmappus]

Removal Method: Stripper
LCD: Samsung 510m-s
Stripper: Klean Strip KS-3

Summary -
Stripped AG with about 5 applications over 7 hour period. The brightness was not visibly improved but the sharpness, contrast, and color saturation are at least 2x better.

Process -
Lightly sanded AG.
Applied thick layer of Klean Strip.
Waited an hour to an hour and fifteen minutes.
Scraped off what I could with plastic scraper.
Wiped down and started process again until all the AG was gone.

Damage -
My panel will have to be replaced. There are two perfectly 45 degree diagonal lines where it appears that the polarizer was cut on my lcd. The lines are too perfectly spaced and angled to have been scratches from my sanding. If I had to guess I would say that the polarizer was put on in three sheets diagonally across the surface of my lcd and when I applied the stripper, it soaked into the seams where the sheets of polarizer came together.

[EDIT]

I had some red column problems when putting my panel back in this last time. Jiggling the FFC fixed it, but I don't think it will survive another pull to do a complete polarizer replacement. I did not mean to imply above that my panel had to be replaced because of damage to the substrate or FFC's caused by stripping.

[EDIT]


I saw someone else successfully stripped their 510m-s so I thought I was good to go.

Not the case, be carefull with this monitor,
Jerm...

This post has been edited by jmappus: Nov 17 2005, 02:41 PM

[wooz]

Panel: Philips TV, 17", WXGA, 17PF9946/37B

Specs: 400:1, 1280X768, 16ms, No FCC's, easy to strip.

Inputs: Tuner, S-Video, component, VGA, HDMI

Method: Rag soak


Process:

1) Laid the panel on a folded bath towel.
2) Cut a t-shirt to fit the panel (was out of paper towels).
3) Dampened rag.
4) Waited for approx. 12 hours.
5) Used HD packaging tape on a dried off corner to try to lift the AG- no luck.
6) Went down two hours later to clean up the mess, tried the tape trick again- no luck.
Noticed the AG covered a 1/8" silver border around the edges of the panel (not in viewing area),
Decided to use a xacto knife to lightly lift the corner,
Pushed the knife in 1/8", saw that all the layers were coming up, FLINCHED ,
Pushed them back down and noticed the AG had separated.
7) Lightly pulled on the AG (pulled up about as hard as the tape) and came off in one piece with no residue at all.
8) Let dry 24 hours

Damage:
None. Area where the layers separated is not visible.

Positive results:
WOW !!

This is a new panel that I was stripping for my old Pro Lens Projector setup.
Figured it was good time to try, before it was glued into the frame.
If the rag method didn't work, I don't think I would have gone any further.

I am comparing the results to my old 17" Rosewill panel 400:1 16ms 1280x1024 with AG.

The colors and detail are much improved.
All the picture controls are set to the neutral position (and actually behave like they are suppost to).
With the rosewill, the whites and light areas of the scene were washed out, and it was hard to make out detail in the dark scenes.
The light and dark scenes are now much better.

Can't wait to try my old panel to see if it improves.

Negative results:
None

This post has been edited by wooz: Nov 17 2005, 01:35 AM

Attached File(s)

 philipslcd_0182.jpg ( 7.65K ) Number of downloads: 6
 philipslcd_0172.jpg ( 6.1K ) Number of downloads: 5

 

[voovoov]

I used Rag method.
LCD: Samsung 510M 15 LCD
Details: I placed the LCD on a piece of dry cloth, put 3 layers of facial tissues onto the front (top) panel to cover only the panel, soaked the tissues with purified water, covered them with aluminum foil. 6 hours later, I tried to peel off the corner with a tape, failed; then I used a razer to do that and it peeled off easily. 99.5% in one piece and left was removed easily with the razer.

The panel with the AG removed looks perfect. The brightness and contrast were improved a lot, but one side of the LCD panel still produces much worse results than the other. and some rings began to appear on both edge of the screen.

Recommendation index: 10/10 for backside of LCD facing the laml, 7/10 for frontside (AG side) facing the lamp.

This post has been edited by voovoov: Nov 17 2005, 07:07 PM

[timmeh]

I used the rag method on my Benq 567s v2,
I soaked the AG using wipe up rags. (the paper ones you use around the sink etc).
I left it to soak for 3 and a half hours. It originaly started coming off easily, but about half way through became really difficult and I had to apply alot of pressure to remove the av, it also came off in about 10 peices, all the edges came of easily and clean tho. There was scuff marks from the glue, but these washed off easily with plain water.

Tested the monitor and it comes up very clear, i'll try to get some shots later. At the moment my projector is in peices because im redoing the optics, i'll try and get a update soon.

[Mark]

Okay:

It originaly started coming off easily, but about half way through became really difficult and I had to apply alot of pressure to remove

And worse :

Waithed 2 hours,could only get a small corner up,before the ag tore.Hmm,I thought and promptly got my wifes hairdryer out,heated up the surface,and pulled

If it isn't going, and you have not waited 12 hours, then wait 12 hours. The first example here was a 3 hour soak, and the other was a 2 hour soak. For those to work would be an anomaly in the first place.

And people who are finding a lot of milky residue left behind, are probably just not waiting long enough.

If it doesn't go, do not use force. Just wait longer. Put differently (cough): IF IT DOESN'T GO, DO NOT USE FORCE (Yes, I am yelling ). JUST WAIT LONGER.

Mark.

This post has been edited by Mark: Nov 18 2005, 07:31 AM

[noddy43]

Hyundai l72s 17" screen

Method of removal:

Initially rag method- left soaking for 9 hours tried to pry up AG layer but brought up the polarizer with it Doh!! tore a bit of the Polarizer off the edge about 2cm by 2cm triangle shaped. Stopped straight away.

Tried the stripper method- taped up the sides of lcd covering a small section of the AG edge and the torn ag+polar bit (Grrrr!). I used clear cello tape instead of masking as i foung it worked better in reducing the seeping of the stripper under the tape. I left the stripper (selley kwik strip) on for about 45 mins then scrapped off with a plastic scraper. repeated 3 times then wiped done with methylated spirits with a paper tower.

The stripper method worked well with the L72s. The rag method didn't work for me, i may have needed to have it on for longer but i just got freaked out when that little bit of polarizer came up.

pros: the screen is much more transparent than before. I haven't set up my PJ yet (still waiting on the pro lens) but it looks really good even with a torch shinning through it.

Cons: rag soak method did'nt work for me see above, but thats about it

Attached File(s)

 lcd4.jpg ( 66.87K ) Number of downloads: 5
 lcd5.jpg ( 29.53K ) Number of downloads: 6

 

[jws2f]

Panel: Benq FP591, 15" 1024x768, Response: 16ms, Contrast: 450:1, Inputs: VGA/DVI-D

A/G Removal: H2O Ragging method

Removal Date: 11/16/2005

I stumbled across this topic yesterday after finally (mostly) finishing a basic LL design projector. While my initial projection results were good, I was left wanting. So, I pulled my panel (Benq FP591), freed it from the metal frame I had siliconed it to, and then proceeded to apply the H2O ragging method of a/g removal. I laid the panel on a clean dish towel and cut paper towel to reasonably conform to the panel dimensions. I applied ~1/2 cup of distilled water in drops over the surface of the paper towel such that the moisture was evenly distrubuted and added a second layer of toweling. I then covered the whole affair in a layer of wax paper to slow evaporation.

After approximately 90 minutes I gently probed a corner with a hobby knife was able to peel it up. Once I could get my thumb and index finger on the corner, I removed the wax paper and paper toweling quickly and then with little difficuly, slowly peeled the a/g layer off the panel. The a/g film came off in a single piece There was a little residual adhesive which I easily removed with a damp, soft cotton cloth, using a fresh patch of the cloth after each stroke so as to remove the glue without smearing it around too much. The result was a shiny, unharmed panel. Attached is a photo of the liberated a/g sheet.

Put the panel back in the projector and the resulting projected image is markedly improved. I had to actually reduce the contrast settings on the projector and HTPC. Much brighter, much sharper and much more saturated colors. This mod makes so much improvement it really should be a requirement of the design. If anyone is interested I will add a screenshot later. Unfortunately, in my zeal I did not take any screenshots before doing the a/g removal for comparison.

 antiGlareRemoved.jpg ( 102.01K ) Number of downloads: 83

[rpearsey]

SAMSUNG 512n 15"

Image brightness 250
Display (projector) image contrast ratio 450:1
Max vertical view angle 110
Max horizontal view angle 140
Max sync rate (V x H) 75 Hz x 61
Anti-Glare Coating: Unknown

METHOD USED: WET PAPER TOWELS

I removed the lcd from the projector and frame, laying it AG side up on a table covered by a towel.

Using 3m painters tape I masked the exposed ffc's.

I used 3 layers of paper towels, moistening each layer with purified water.

In all I used a cup of water, dripping it on the paper towels with my fingers.

I then waited 2 hours and pried up a corner of the ag with an exacto blade and then peeled the entire ag off in one sheet much like the BenQ pictured above.

The lcd still works - !. So, at the very least, no harm was done. I will have to wait until tonight to see if the picture is improved.

I'm quite relieved that I don't have to try sanding and gooping! Not sure I'm brave enough for that.

THE GOOD

The picture is much, much, much brighter. I can have lights on in the kitchen adjacent to the family room where the projector room is and in the front dining room. It's almost bright enough to read comfortablely and I can see the picture clearly.

The contrast is vastly greater, and the colors are much more vivid. Plus, the picture is crisper - way crisper.

I've come to the conclusion that once this process is reasonably safe for the majority of monitors, this should be considered a vital part of the lcd stripping process.

I couldnt' score a camera tonight. So, no pics, but I'll try and get one soon.

THE BAD

There isn't any. Maybe I got lucky, but there's no downside here.

More Pics in my plog -

http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?a...=80#entry102994

This post has been edited by rpearsey: Nov 22 2005, 12:43 AM

Attached File(s)

 THE_AG.jpg ( 100.78K ) Number of downloads: 7

 

[timmeh]

Okay:And worse :If it isn't going, and you have not waited 12 hours, then wait 12 hours. The first example here was a 3 hour soak, and the other was a 2 hour soak. For those to work would be an anomaly in the first place.

And people who are finding a lot of milky residue left behind, are probably just not waiting long enough.

If it doesn't go, do not use force. Just wait longer. Put differently (cough): IF IT DOESN'T GO, DO NOT USE FORCE (Yes, I am yelling ). JUST WAIT LONGER.

Mark.

I would definatly agree, I wasnt sure if it was a good idea to reapply rags with half the ag off. For the most part the monitor works 100% fine. The residue was not milky but transparant, you could see where it sat by looking on the angle, i washed this off after with water and it worked fine.