Lumenlab: Antiglare (ag) Removal Attempts By Lcd Type & Method - Lumenlab

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Antiglare (ag) Removal Attempts By Lcd Type & Method READ POST 1! Please provide information stated on first page

#1 User is offline   SIMUL8R 

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Posted 22 October 2005 - 07:50 PM

UPDATE:... 31 December 2007

Please be advised since this modification of LCD enhancement has gained popularity from it's first discovery by Mark and Elken2004 it is a process that should be highly undertaken at your own risk. There have been growing occasions, including myself, of actual 'graining' occurring to the polarizer film upon removing the protective Antiglare (AG) layer and/or the TAC layer on either side of the panel that may lead to total replacement thereof, a process not easily replicated and normally done originally by LCD manufactures. Extreme care should always be undertaken to hopefully prevent 'graining' after removing the protective AG or TAC by maintaining efficient cooling to the LCD at all times while the projector is in use. Cleaning the polarization film with anything but a slightly damp cloth or pressurized air and while the LCD panel is on off and cool.

AS AN EXAMPLE OF WHAT 'GRAINING' IS - imagine a baloney and cheese sandwich :P. Remove the first slice of bread and it's innards (baloney or cheese) will have the potential to fall off after loosing it's mustard or mayonnaise hold :P or in this case 'pop' up appearing like 'graining' of the polar layer. The only strength left that the polar layer has is it's adhered hold to the last TAC under it (the other slice of bread :P) that's also adhered to the LCD panel itself. So, be warned that the AG and/or TAC is a supportive layer that strengthens the polar's overall bond and concise structure.

Should you decide undertaking this mod, try not to over soak while using the 'Water Rag Method'. There is a possibility of over-saturating all layers of adhesives in between each layer down to the glass LCD substrate, so be meticulous.

sim


PLEASE DO NOT USE THIS AS A DISCUSSION BOARD.

This thread is a branch off from the original thread "LL projector lumens theory" in furtherance to research various methods in the removal of the antiglare layer on LCD panels. Please do not use this thread as a discussion board. Proceed to the original thread on 'LL projector lumens theory' for full discussion and/or assistance. Please provide only information pertaining to your LCD panel and the method used in order to remove the anitglare either 'polishing, ripping & replacing, stripper and/or water soaking' (more methods will be mentioned as they come) in the following manner:

1) LCD brand name & Size
2) Specifications (brief)
3) Method of antiglare removal to include sanding if done &/or type of polisher
4) Type of polarized film used, name, model, part number (if total replacment was done)
5) Date of removal, replacement
6) Date of any ill findings after removal, replacement (while Editing)

Pictures are worth a thousand words when it comes to researching, so please provide but keep your sizes to a minimum and few and specifically on the process of removal with some showing your projection results (if you want to show it off :) )

MORE IMPORTANTLY (#6), should you discover any ill effects to the polarized film after the method performed and while use of your projector then please 'EDIT' your post/s with dates of when and what was discovered. This information will or may be helpful in development of better alternatives in antiglare removal.

We, who are experimenting with this new found discovery appreciate your assistance and cooperation. Thank you.

SIMUL8R

Edit by SupraGuy:
For the time being, there is an "OT Posts from..." thread. Please use that as a thread to discuss any of the posts in this thread, ask for clarification, further details, or anything that is not directly on topic with this thread. Most of the time I'll move the posts, but I may instead choose to just delete them. Posting them in the appropriate place will ensure that they remain where they will be seen.

On the flipside, please see that thread for discussion about what's happening here!.

Thank you for your cooperation.

This post has been edited by SIMUL8R: 31 December 2007 - 09:29 PM

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#2 User is offline   pjgibbs 

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Posted 23 October 2005 - 04:46 AM

I stripped the ag on my 8" hami tonight just got done runing the projector 2 1/2 hours
what can I say the whites are brighter contrast is much better and the colors?...Im lovin it.I did the paint stripper method.I will try to take some screen shots tomorrow.


I totaly covered the panel with stripper one shot I also cut my squeegee the exact width of the panel waited 30 minutes and did one pass with the sqeegee.
I got 95 percent of the ag off this way. The rest was touch up on the corners.

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This post has been edited by pjgibbs: 26 October 2005 - 02:11 AM

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#3 User is offline   SIMUL8R 

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Posted 23 October 2005 - 05:16 AM

CORNEA CT1503T TFT-LCD monitor with TV tuner
Contrast Ratio (typical) 500:1
Size 15" (38.1 cm)
Resolution 1024× 768 / 60 Hz
Surface Treatment Anti-glare, Hard-Coating 3H
Removed antiglare on 10/17/05.

Method Stripper - Klean Strip Stripper (15 min. can)

1. Carefully masked ffc's and circuit boards twice up to the panel itself but leaving the anitglare exposed. Also, making sure stripper does not 'run over' and onto the polar on the otherside of the panel, if it did quickly wipe off with denatured alcohol.

2. Prior sanding (lightly) 220 grit. Rounded sandpaper over index finger and not folded or creased (edges of crease will dig deeper into antiglare and marr the polar)

3. Took a little over 2 hours with sanding and cleaning, repeated application of stripper several times making sure not to have stripper touch anything else but antiglare.

4. After 15 to 20 minutes applied plastic scraper (squeegee would work fine as shown above) then reapplied stripper to 'stragglers' left behind. Not much effort applying scraper just finger pressure.

5. Cleaned up all stripper residue with denatured alcohol using soft paper towels and sponge.

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This post has been edited by SIMUL8R: 03 November 2005 - 11:59 PM

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#4 User is offline   SIMUL8R 

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Posted 23 October 2005 - 05:18 AM

SIMUL8R strip

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#5 User is offline   SIMUL8R 

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Posted 23 October 2005 - 05:20 AM

SIMUL8R strip

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#6 User is offline   SIMUL8R 

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Posted 23 October 2005 - 05:20 AM

SIMUL8R strip

Results: Contrast is deeper and brighter. I'm able to view images with 2 60watt lamps on, whites are whiter (personal observation, when switching from a dark to white background I felt eye strain from the sudden switch). Viewing pleasure has increased dramatically, brilliance is like plasma. Projector has 50 odd hours usage since antiglare removal and no apparent side affects noted as yet.
sim

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This post has been edited by SIMUL8R: 26 October 2005 - 09:14 PM

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#7 User is offline   dantheman 

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Post icon  Posted 23 October 2005 - 04:20 PM

LCD: 15" Philips S5 Series
*Has ffc issues
Method: Paint Stripper
Product: -500grit Wet'n dry sandpaper
-Paint Stripper, active ingredient Methylene Chloride 870 gm / L
-Teflon spatchlr
-papertowel
-Methylated Spirits
-Clear vinl strips
-Household sticky tape
Date: 19-10-05
Process time: 4 hours approx
Process detail:
-Sand lightly and evenly over total surface.
-Prepared 4 vinl strips to crop edges and provide overspray protection
-Taped down with sticky tape.
-Apply stripper up to edges. Thick.
-Wait 30-45 minutes then wipe of excess with spatchler.
-Reapply stripper to stubbrn areas.
-Repeat
-Remove stickytape and vinl.
-Work with smaller quantities of stripper on edges working your way outwards,
leaving a nice thin border of a/g.
-Repeat applications on anything between you and a mirror finish.
-Cleanup using the Meth. I soaked a sponge. Paper towel is usefull here also.
-Dusted up with compressed air.
-Finito.
:ph34r:
Comments: Patience is a virtue with this. Approached with more confidence, the
second time I performed this process it was a peice of cake.
Deterioration: None at the time of writing (@ approx 30 hours usage)
Results: Excellent contrast/colour/sharpness/brightness improvements experienced.

Images: Brightness imprvmnt now allows 70w lighting to be turned on. Other various captures. Clarity has improvd so much!.....soft skin tones look fantastic. im in WOW land :)

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#8 User is offline   gregeast 

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Posted 24 October 2005 - 03:40 AM

Antiglare Removal

Method: Water Soak
Solvent: Distilled H2O
Dampener: Paper towel
Time: 12 hours

Monitor: 15" CMV 529A
Lenses: Standard Lumenlab triplet and fresnels
Screen: DaLite pulldown with 1.1 gain

Procedure
Per Mark's instructions I laid the panel out, cut a paper towel so that it covered the surface of the panel (being careful not to let the paper towel & water extend beyond the edge of the antiglare sheet), dampened the paper towel with distilled water, drizzled more water on 2-3 times and waited, impatiently, for 12 hours. Pulled up a corner with an Exacto knife and the antiglare sheet come up in 3 big pieces, offering only minor resistance. The peel took maybe 5 minutes. Only scary part was not knowing at first if I was getting just the antiglare or the polar bear too.

Did I mention that this is the panel from my PJ...?

I'll take some pics tomorrow but after a very quick 15 minute projection session, my intial impressions are:

The Good
- Noticeably brighter overall, with whiter whites.

- While still not really watchable with all the lights on in the basement, the image is bright enough to be seen, which was not true before.
The not so Good
- I'm now able to see the fresnel lines in the image, which I did not see before. I'm assuming that the antiglare was blurring the image sufficiently to hide them previously. Any thoughts on correcting this, perhaps my fresnels need to be moved a bit?

EDIT: 10/29/05 Update - Moved the rear fresnel back(further away from the LCD) by ~1/4" and the visible fresnel rings disappeared. First attempt was to move the rear fresnel ~1/8" which did NOT make the rings disappear.

Summary
Definitely worth doing, the procedure was really quite straight forward and I never felt like the panel was in danger. Again, the only scary part was the first corner of the antiglare, after that is was a piece of cake.

Thanks to Simul8r, Elken, Mark and everyone else on the forum for their experimentation and their willingness to share!

Greg

Attached File(s)

  • Attached File  Darla.jpg (70.82K)
    Number of downloads: 297

This post has been edited by gregeast: 29 October 2005 - 06:49 PM

Greg East
Loveland, Colorado
USA
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#9 User is offline   SonicWonder2000 

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Posted 24 October 2005 - 07:32 PM

Method: Antiglare Buffing
Panel: IBM thinkpad laptop monitor
Polish: PEEK polish

procedure: Masked off electronics, applied PEEK by hand with a soft tissue. Worked a small area for approx 30 seconds. Repeated 3x.

The good: Minimal risk/effort. The panel is now see-through in the treated area. The appearance is glossy when viewing a reflection. The transmitted efficiency is approximately the same as encapsulation with cellophane tape.

The bad: the antiglare layer is still there, just highly flattened. Not as good as full removal, but SUPER close.

While I believe this method to be completely safe, I noticed a petroleum-type odor on the panel after the polish was wiped away. If I were doing this on a projection panel, I would use Naptha or mineral spirits to wipe down the surface and remove any residual polish after the application. I wiped the treated surface with acetone (I know, not good! - but only for a short time) to make sure that the polish wasn't just leaving a film on the surface. The area remained glossy - this is a true abrasive polish.

In the US, PEEK is tough to find (Canadian company). There is a fellow on ebay who is a US rep - track him down to purchase some:

http://cgi.ebay.com/...1QQcmdZViewItem

EDIT: I applied a bit of PEEK to a piece of stripped antiglare so you could see the effect. Only the corner was treated:

Attached File  PEEK.jpg (92.05K)
Number of downloads: 334

This post has been edited by SonicWonder2000: 24 October 2005 - 11:21 PM

Stop fighting - The enemy is anti-glare!!
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#10 User is offline   tawamiami 

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Posted 25 October 2005 - 04:31 AM

Antiglare Removal

Method: Water Soak
Solvent: Tap H2O
Dampener: Paper towel
Time: 3 hours

Monitor: 8.9" Toshiba Portable DVD Player
Lenses: Standard Lumenlab triplet and fresnels

(Cheating off off gregeast's post)

Procedure
Per Mark's instructions I laid the panel out, cut a paper towel so that it covered most of the panel, not quite to the edges, dampened the paper towel with tap water, drizzled more water on 2-3 times and waited for 3 hours. Pulled up a corner with my fingernail and the antiglare sheet came up in one big piece, ZERO resistance. The peel took maybe 30 seconds.

Pics to come...

The Good
- Noticeably brighter overall, with whiter whites.
- More clearly defined pixel edges, less of a "blur" on pixel borders

No complaints, no visible degredation to the polarizer or panel as of now.

Summary
My experience was probably freakishly easy and unusual. It nicely illustrates the range of variation when dealing with different panel manufacturers and possibly within actual model numbers. I cannot recommend this to anyone in good conscience, but specifically for this panel the technique is a godsent.

This post has been edited by tawamiami: 28 October 2005 - 07:39 AM

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#11 User is offline   RaginRudolph 

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Posted 26 October 2005 - 08:51 PM

Monitor: NEC 1550 (it's at least 5 years old)

Anti-Glare Removal Method: Klean Strip KS-3 Premium Stripper

Date Started: October 24, 2005
Date completed: October 25, 2005

I think age and heat from the PJ had alot to do with getting the Anti-glare off
Panel was sanded lightly with 220 course sandpaper .

1. Applied striper to small area for test

2. Used masking tape to cover panels electronics and placed the tape 1/8 on LCD so stripper would not get to the edge.

3. Using plastic scrapper removed stripper from test area and polar could be seen

4.Sanded half of the monitor

5. Applied stripper to sanded side and after 30min using plastic scrapper removed stripper. Some of the Anti-Glare came up but it seems like the stripper didn't stay on long enough so a second coat was applied.After another 30min the second coat was removed and there was still alot of Anti-Glare left behind so a 3rd coat was applied this time I covered the entire LCD and left it on for 3hrs.

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This post has been edited by RaginRudolph: 26 October 2005 - 09:16 PM

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#12 User is offline   RaginRudolph 

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Posted 28 October 2005 - 10:20 PM

6. Removed stripper after 3 hours with the plastic srapper first side that was sanded working with the scrapper was pretty smooth almost completely strip still had some Anti-Glare stragglers left the seocnd side useing the scrapper was pretty hard because it was not sanded only a small amount came up and did not want to damage the LCD it's now 4:30am and I had to get ready for work so I applied stripper to entire LCD.
Returned home at 1:30 pm useing a paper towel started removing stripper 1st side completely strip and the second side I had to use the scrapper but is was not hard and all the Anti-Glare came up entire LCD was strip.
7. Using Goof Off remaing glue came up and panel was cleaned.

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This post has been edited by RaginRudolph: 28 October 2005 - 10:29 PM

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#13 User is offline   foe 

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Posted 31 October 2005 - 08:13 AM

1) LG 17"
2) 550:1, 1280x1024, 12ms
3) Australian sellys paint stripper after light sand with 440grit.
4) Polarised film left untouched
5) Date of removal 29/10/05
6) Ill post some pics of the results and a few that I took while doing it. I found it relitivly easy apart from the stress involved. Did the usual i.e tapes edges, light sand and poured stripper on thickly. Left for about 30mins and tested the status by scraping (with a plastic scraper) a section. Found it was shiny underneath so I went ahead and scraped the rest off. Only had a few trouble spots that were stubborn where I had to re-apply the stripper in dobs for 5 mins each. Removed the glue that was left with soapy water and isopropyl alcohol. Still have a few specs (probably glue) left over which Im going to have to clean.

Conclusion: I found the end result satisfying, the whites where definetly brighter and colours deeper. I would however caution anyone from doing it as while the results were worth the risk for me I can see how some people will be dissapointed.
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#14 User is offline   Miklopolis 

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Posted 02 November 2005 - 03:27 PM

Panel: Samsung 153T
350:1, 1024x768, 25ms
Method: Water soak rag method.
Date of removal: 10/31/05


My first attmept was with the paint stripper method. It was a failure. I sanded with 330 grit and tried multiple times using Klean strip stripper. Bottom line - I left it on overnight! and the anit-glare didn't budge.

The next day i used 3 or 4 paper towls which fit nicely over the front of the LCD and gave the towels a pretty good soaking with filtered water from a BRITA(i know distilled was recommended). I left for work and came back about 9 hours later. I peeled up a piece and most of the a/g came up with relative ease. There were some trouble spots so i gave them another soak (about an hour) and cleaned up the excess glue with a little rubbing alcohol.

I can definitely tell there is a big difference but I haven't been able to readjust my projector and focus it the way I like. When I do I will report on my findings.

+1 for the Rag method!
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#15 User is offline   sweston 

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Posted 02 November 2005 - 05:27 PM

Here is my anti glare removeal post


My steps in removing antiglare coating.

1) Place LCD glare side up on dry dish towel on counter. (this towel is to catch any water from running all over the counter.)

2) Wet second dish towel and loosely wring out water. I have a rainsoft system so my water is free of impurities. Definately do not use hard water as you will get water spots when it dries and then you need to rub those out.

3) Place towel over lcd panel and folded sides in to overlap lcd by 1/2 inch.

4) Pour a glass of water over top towel to thoroughly saturate.

5) Reapply water every hour or 2 for up to 4 hours.

6) At 4 or 5 hour mark I lifted the antiglare sheeting from a corner and began to peel it back upon itself parallel to the lcd as to not stress the glass.

Pretend you are removing a sticker from a shrink wrapped item and you do not want to tear the shrink wrap. It is at times a tough pull as the AG is firmly stuck to the LCD but it does come off. Work the AG off at angles so as to not work a large surface area at once.

It was actually very easy to remove and others may make it sound hard but just don't crack your lcd or stress the glass too much. It's easy to remove once soaked thoroughly (at least mine was). I did it my first try! So you can probably too.



LCD before removal:
Posted Image

Antiglare sheet removed:
Posted Image

Lcd w/o antiglare
Posted Image

This post has been edited by sweston: 02 November 2005 - 05:30 PM

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#16 User is offline   Mark 

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Posted 03 November 2005 - 01:21 AM

Here is a chopped up photo guide to pulling up the anti-glare with Water Ragging™. There are 4 keys missing from these posts:

1. Instead of using a razor, try sticky tape at an edge. You should be able to peel the anti-glare up with the sticky tape.

2. Try reenforcing the edges of the anti-glare with sticky tape after soaking. This should keep it from tearing if it snags at the edge. Tearing is not a big deal, but it means you have to get a corner started again.

3. I recommend you use distilled water. All my tests were done with tap water, but better to be safe.

4. Even if you don't think that any water has gotten anywhere but the surface of the anti-glare, let the panel dry before applying any power.

note do not let water pool anywhere on the exposed surface of the PVA, always have a rag holding it back. Better yet, try to never let even ragged water hit the surface of the PVA. While this is what we crash tested, it is still not recommended. I would suggest that before you do the peel up that you wipe off any excess water on the surface of the TAC. That way if it tears (hopefully you have reinforced it with tape too), then water will not pool at the tear line between the TAC and the PVA. PVA is the polarization layer that is exposed once the anti-glare TAC is removed.

Here we go:

Part 1: http://www.lumenlab....indpost&p=98378

Part 2: http://www.lumenlab....indpost&p=98441

Part 3: http://www.lumenlab....indpost&p=98482

Part 4: http://www.lumenlab....indpost&p=98484

Realize that all of our techniques are experimental. Things have and can go wrong.

Mark.

This post has been edited by Mark: 09 November 2005 - 09:17 PM

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#17 User is offline   jonjandran 

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Posted 03 November 2005 - 02:54 PM

Panel : Sony PS1 5"
Method : Rag Soak
Date: Nov 3,05

1. Put wet paper towels on panel
2. Waited 2 hours
3. Used razor blade and peeled up a corner of the antiglare
4. Let panel air dry.

It worked perfectly, like a dream. I noticed better brightness and colors. Not as much as the other 5.5" panel I did, but with the Sony PS1 screen the antiglare faces AWAY from the light and the 5.5" antiglare was facing TOWARDS the light.

Maybe this will keep me happy until my 15.4" Controller and Pro lenses arrive. :D
My 15.4" 1080p Pro HD Plog HERE
My 10.6" 720p in a Commercial Case Plog HERE
QUOTE (SupraGuy)
It's not actually nearly as complicated as it seems. The general idea is to throw some lenses and a stripped LCD panel in a box with a bright light.
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#18 User is offline   SonicWonder2000 

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Posted 03 November 2005 - 08:58 PM

View Postsweston, on Nov 2 2005, 09:27 AM, said:

[Successful rag stripping]


Pease note that sweston's LCD panel = Dell 1504FP 15"
Stop fighting - The enemy is anti-glare!!
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#19 User is offline   GadgetSmith 

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Posted 03 November 2005 - 10:06 PM

View PostSonicWonder2000, on Nov 3 2005, 03:58 PM, said:

Pease note that sweston's LCD panel = Dell 1504FP 15"


Furthermore, according to his PLOG, the Dell 1504FP he stripped actually had a samsung panel in it... just somthing else to ponder... wasn't Mikau the one that tried the samsung panel with water, but had problems ?
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#20 User is offline   swoozle 

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Posted 04 November 2005 - 04:53 AM

1) Norcent LM153 15" (Now there's one you see every day, eh?). Internal label says Acer

2) Specifications: Good question, it was a cheapo circuit city clearance a couple of years ago

3) Standard stripper job: Sand with 220 grit sandpaper, cover with Jasco paste stripper (methylene chloride), soak for ~30 minutes, scrape with plastic scraper. Lather, rinse, repeat until most gone, then lots of painstaking cleanup with solvent alcohol and toilet paper.

If I was more patient, I would have tried the rag soak first. It probably would have been easier. It was a PITA to get all of the last little bits of AG off. And listen to the other folks that say DON'T PRESS HARD with the scraper OR RUB HARD with whatever you are using to do the final alcohol cleanup. I left some scratches that fortunately are not visible in the projected image. In fact my image looks cleaner than when I started.
I did not use tape on the edges and just relied on the paste stripper staying where I put it. This worked well except for a couple areas where the stripper contacted the edge of the polar bear and started to work on the adhesive holding the polar to the panel. It didn't get very far and is nowhere near the image portion of the panel.

The Good: AWESOME brightness and appearance. Happy, happy, joy, joy.

The Bad: Nada.

This post has been edited by swoozle: 05 November 2005 - 12:15 AM

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#21 User is offline   donkeytech 

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Posted 04 November 2005 - 10:13 AM

AG Removal Method: STRIPPING
LCD: Samsung 510M-S
Stripper: Klean Strip KS-3

Summary:
Roughly 5 applications of stripper over 6 hour period, and quite a bit of cleanup with denatured alcohol. VERY pleased with results as everyone else has indicated - Significant increase in brightness and contrast!

Process:
- removed panel from PJ and frame
- setup panel on level surface
- did not mask anything, but absolutely recommend doing so
- did not prep sand at all
- brushed thick layer of stripper and waited nearly 1 hour, ensuring no contact to FFCs or runoff
- scraped with plastic scraper without downward pressure
- repeated process until all trouble spots, particularly edges, were removed
- cleaned with denatured alcohol
- returned to frame and PJ and, of course, nervously tested.

Associated Damage (sorry - no photos):
- very minor scratches to polar from scraper or paper towel - no impact to image
- 2 pea-sized spots on polar edge where polar seemed to be seperating from panel - no impact to image (because it's on the edge). Most likely due to stripper reaching polar edge.

Thanks LL Pioneers!

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This post has been edited by donkeytech: 05 November 2005 - 01:49 AM

"The only difference between a crazy person and me is the fact that I am not crazy." -Salvador Dali
10.6 Retro-Green Edsel PJ ... Home Theater Plog
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#22 User is offline   andysharifi 

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Posted 07 November 2005 - 07:25 AM

Panel:
Westinghouse 15" LCD. Same as CMV models.

Stripper: KleanStrip KS-3 Premium
Summary:
I did about 5 applications over a 3 hour period, then used alot of denatured alcohol to clean up the mess. It was all in all a messy job. But worked. I only took off enough AG for a widescreen, so there is still some AG on the very top and very bottom. I only fully masked off the sides of the screen before stripping
Process:
- masked the sides only
- sanded the screen very lightly with coarse 220
- brushed thick layer of stripper and waited nearly 30min.
- scraped with plastic scraper without downward pressure
- repeated process until all trouble spots, particularly edges, were removed
- cleaned with denatured alcohol

Results:
I have a picture in the screen forum, but the biggest improvement was contrast. The color saturation is immensely improved. The brightness does improve on top of an already crazy High Power screen. I would guess i'm in the territory of around 400-500 lumens with the mod and the high power screen. Certainly showes its true colors on movies and games, and browsing the internet is a whole new experience when everything is so much more colorful.

No one will every have a finished projector if they don't strip their screens, its holding you back THAT MUCH!!!
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#23 User is offline   Dr Lazy 

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Posted 07 November 2005 - 11:16 PM

panel: CMV 720d 17"

specs: 500:1 1280X1024 8ms 16.7M Colours

Method:Rag soak

process:

1)I sat the LCD at an angle so any excess water would drain away from the FFC's and electronics
2)layed 2 paper towels, to completely cover the ag
3)Gently poured water on to the paper towels untill completely soaked
4)Removed all the air bubbles
5)I waited about an hour then lifted the ag up at one corner with a scalpel (not recommended) and made sure it was the ag and not the Polarizer. (The ag Should look clear the polarizer looks black when you look through it) The Ag was still a bit stciky so I let it soak for 2 more hours. After which it came up easily.
6)I let the LCD dry out for a day before I put it back in its frame However I noticed the LCD was still tacky so I wet a lens cloth and wiped the lcd down a couple of times to remove any left over adhesive untill the water on the lcd surface started to form little droplets.

Damage:
None.

Positive results:
-The picture is much brighter
-The colour has a lot more punch its allmost as good as a plasma. I no longer have to play with the saturation. I think this result alone makes this mod worthwhile.
-Better contrast. Black is now alot blacker. Before I had a lot of light leakage in the middle of my screen this is now gone.
-I Can see a clear image of my light arc on the triplet. Which will be useful for testing how well a reflector works.

Negative results:
-The fresnel lines are more noticable. I had to move the fresnel Quite A bit further away from the LCD.
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#24 User is offline   mikelish 

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Posted 09 November 2005 - 06:36 PM

panel: ACER AL1714

specs: 350:1 1280X1024 8ms 16.7M Colours

Method:Rag soak

process:

1) layed on a pizza box (crucial)
2) put wet paper towels on
3) drank some beers (almost as crucial as step 1)
4) waited for approx 6-7 hours then peeled the anti glare off in 3 sections
5) cleaned up the weird residue with a bit of water
6) let dry

Damage:
None. I did leave a small 1/2inch border along the top of the screen just so i can look back when complete at the gain of stripping the anti glare. I used a 16:9 screen and all 16:9 sources so i will never see it outside of that test.

Positive results:
-I can see through the panel now


Negative results:
-dont know yet, havnt finished building the projecter and never viewed it with the antiglare
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#25 User is offline   mikelish 

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Posted 09 November 2005 - 06:39 PM

panel: CMV-520D

specs: 500:1 1024X768 16ms 16.7M Colours

Method:complete polarizer removal

process:

1) Removed the polarizer very slowly, using a plastic knife and putty knife at times to not crack the glass


Damage:
None. Later i ended up dropping something on an FFC and dented the ribbon cable just enough to net myself a nice white column

Positive results:
-looked better even with the cheap surplus shed polarizer i pieced together
-the 3dlens polarizer i got was of much higher quality and had a higher transmission based on my overhead projecter testing, never got to try it though, bought the 17 inch above


Negative results:
-white line, not due to the strip but another accident
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