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Useful tools

#1 User is offline   brainchild 

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Posted 24 May 2004 - 02:53 AM

Can it stay on topic?

The Lumenlab focal calculator:

http://lumenlab.com/focal_calc.php
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Here's a nice cutting bit for your dremel or rotary saw that makes cutting stainless reflectors a breeze.

http://store.yahoo.c.../1001-5774.html

With this bit you should be able to cut the lamp recess in your reflector in about 30 seconds.

(You can get the same tool at Home Depot.)

Oh yeah, if you don't wear goggles while doing this, you will be picking metal shavings out of your eyes!
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#2 User is offline   tonytemplin 

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Posted 24 May 2004 - 09:09 AM

http://www.lumenlab....ic=230&hl=tools
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#3 User is offline   zendance 

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Posted 24 May 2004 - 03:33 PM

I used standard Dremel cutoff wheels to cut my Norpro bowl. If you keep in mind that you can only do straight cuts with a cutoff wheel, you should be able to accomplish it using only a couple wheels. It took me two for the cutout. You can then grind down the jagged edge with a grinding stone. It took 15 minutes.

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#4 User is offline   tonytemplin 

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Posted 24 May 2004 - 09:47 PM

Thanks Rorshack, for this 'tool.' I can't cut straight even with a table saw, so maybe this tool (aka clamped board) will do the trick for me. This should work with Jig/Sabre saws as well, any saw with a base/foot on it.

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#5 User is offline   Mo'Tussin 

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Posted 21 August 2004 - 10:40 AM

Here is something that might help some people out.

It's a very small program (78K) that converts from one type of measurment to another. No installation to do, just the executable. Personally I've found it a very handy program to have. This is ver. 4.0 and there is a 5.0 but it has a advertisment kind of theme going on, so I stick w/ 4.0. Here's a quote.

"Unit Converter is a freeware tool that can take care of all your unit conversions even when offline. It has an easy-to-use interface and contains most of the units commonly encountered while solving engineering problems. With more than 400 units, you are likely to find the units you are looking for. Other features include the ability to add user-defined conversions. Everything is built into a single executable file so no uninstaller is necessary. Its small file size makes it easy to distribute among friends and co-workers. "

Give it a try, you'll be glad you did!

-Jay

Here's a pic
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#6 User is offline   SIMJEDI 

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Posted 03 October 2004 - 05:52 AM

For tuning your picture I would like to highly recommend both the AVIA and Digital Video Essentials DVD's for a properly calibrated setup.

You should never tune your settings to any certian movie, as the director has felt that any one particular scene has to set the mood by giving it a certian hue, much like music does. The Matrix comes to mind as it has a green tint to it, so anything you watch after, if you were to adjust to this movie, will have the wrong look to it.

All movies are edited on properly calibrated setups, so make sure your's is too so you can see it how they intended you to see it.

Hope this helps.


peace
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#7 User is offline   SIMJEDI 

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Posted 05 October 2004 - 03:11 AM

I found this wonderful tool to see the different effects of different sized diameters and bulb placement has to do with beam travel in real-time.

Spherical Mirrors

Now that's cool B)


peace
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#8 User is offline   Swordmaker 

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Posted 05 October 2004 - 07:42 AM

SIMJEDI, on Oct 5 2004, 03:11 AM, said:

I found this wonderful tool to see the different effects of different sized diameters and bulb placement has to do with beam travel in real-time.

Spherical Mirrors

Now that's cool  B)


peace

That is a very neat site. You can actually BUILD a virtual LumenLab projector and see how it works. Great find!!!!
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#9 User is offline   Tom 

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Post icon  Posted 11 October 2004 - 07:54 PM

I have just found this lens design software:

SYNOPSYS lens design program (SYNthesis of OPtical SYStems)

I think it is an invaluable tool in adept hands. This is an optical CAD.

There is a "Samples" page where you can view what can this software do.
There is also a "Download" section, where you can get the actual version. You can use it without any restrictions for 90 days. After then, either you pay the $1000 registration fee, or.... download and install it again and you got another 90 days. ;)
My projector status: [suspended]
I'm playing with my new Lumenlab EVO V1 projector! It's great so far!!!
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#10 User is offline   SIMJEDI 

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Posted 16 October 2004 - 03:52 PM

Here are some monitor testing and setup tools.

DisplayMate: DisplayMate is an expert software utility program for adjusting, setting up, calibrating,
tuning up, testing, evaluating and improving image and picture quality on any display.

Monitor Calibration Wizard: Monitor Calibration Wizard is an easy-to-use tool for calibrating the colors displayed by your monitor. Most monitors have flaws, they may be too dark, too bright, or they may have a color tint like green or blue. All these problems can be easily fixed through Monitor Calibration Wizard.

MonitorsDirect Calibrator: The MonitorsDirect Calibrator is designed to help evaluate monitor quality, diagnose possible problems, and help properly adjust the display image

Nokia Monitor Test: This Windows program will guide you in setting the parameters, controls and adjustments of the monitor. It will also guide you on how to measure picture quality.

Pixel Persistence Analyzer: Pixel Persistence Analyzer is a truly amazing LCD testing tool, which should make it easier to compare the pixel persistence (streaking or ghosting) of TFT monitors. It includes a few tests (flicker test, readability test, etc.), gamma correction feature, scrolling game, attractive interface, and much more!


peace
"Become like the nature of water"
--Bruce Lee
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#11 User is offline   RiCoda 

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Posted 22 October 2004 - 11:01 PM

just to elaborate on tony's idea for using a board as a straight edge. to improve on this idea a bit glue the straight edge to a wider board (wider than the width of your saw base, scrap MDF is fine) once the glue is dry sit the saw on this jig and trim off the excess on the lower wider board, this leaves you with a straight edge that is the exact width of your saw, and if you cut it straight it will always cut a striaght line. for marking out you just align the edge with your saw cut marks with the lower board and away you go, save having to set the straight edge back from the mark a certain measurment, which can lead to errors or movement. this way you can see at a glance if it's bang on the mark. Once it's made put it away in a safe place and it's always there if you need it again. you can also use this idea to fabricate a jig for jigsaws or for routers, but when used with a router you have to remember to always use the same cutter, as a different diameter cutter will cut a different path.
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#12 User is offline   DeathRay64 

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Posted 26 October 2004 - 04:31 AM

If you need to convert measurements and don't wan't to run software to do it (or you have a Mac) you can go to this site. It is a great online tool that I use often.

It will convert anything from chemistry to shoe size.
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#13 User is offline   Six 

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Posted 08 November 2004 - 05:26 AM

Here is a modal calculator. It will help build a new room or perfectly place speakers and seating positions in an existing room.

http://www.ultimatea...com/news/10388/


The AVIA and Digital Video Essentials DVDs can be aided with an inexpensive sound level meter (an analog version is $10 cheaper). It's not the most accurate, but it is better than running around a room while a test signal is playing.

http://www.radioshac...ct%5Fid=33-2055
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#14 User is offline   RaginRudolph 

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Posted 23 January 2005 - 07:12 PM

A volt meter it can tell you the difference between AC 120v-240v where your black wire is your hot conductor and white is the neutral which is only for your 120v fans and your ballast :rolleyes: .
Your volt meter should also tell DC voltage as well make sure before you purchase,in DC voltage its opposite from AC here black is ground,use a car as an example :unsure: when you look at a car battery RED is hot and BLACK is ground.
If your still confused :( please ask somebody120-240 should not be played with you can damage your equipment or seriously :o hurt someone.
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#15 User is offline   JMS 

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Posted 06 February 2005 - 08:33 AM

here is a file that allows you to test your lcd to fince dead pixels....just hook up the lcd to the pc and this file post different colors to allow you to see the pixel and color of the pixel

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  • Attached File  DPB.zip (26.04K)
    Number of downloads: 436

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#16 User is offline   SIMJEDI 

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Posted 23 February 2005 - 03:22 AM

Use this method with your Computer/HTPC to see what running a LCD in it's native resolution will get you and the importance of having a scaler: 1:1 pixel mapping

Notice the date, it's nothing new. ;)


peace
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#17 User is offline   hanseneffects 

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Posted 03 March 2005 - 01:31 PM

Here is a useful tool:

I had my box plans laid out on a piece of paper and knew each pieces dimensions. I took these drawings to Home Depot and they cut the parts to size. The first three cuts were free and it was .25 cents for every cut after this. It was well worth it!

Advantages:

1. Easier to transport in the car versus a 4x8 sheet of MDF
2. No need to purchase a circular saw
3. No need to cut your fingers off trying to cut a 12" X 27" piece out of a 4'X8' piece of MDF.
4. BIGGEST ADVANTAGE: Every cut was square. This means that the box fit together nicely.

Sam
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#18 User is offline   LightEmUp 

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Posted 21 March 2005 - 05:14 PM

heh that's what I do for all my projects lol
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#19 User is offline   tawamiami 

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Posted 24 March 2005 - 06:46 AM

I know that there are two suggestions on this that have already been posted, but if you're looking for a really simple unit conversion, try google.

I have a googe toolbar, so it's even faster, but if you run a search in google for something like "320mm to in" you get the conversion right there in nice bold print. Works for most of the units that I've tried, and is really fast and easy.
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#20 User is offline   quadmasta 

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Posted 25 March 2005 - 06:55 PM

tawamiami, on Mar 24 2005, 06:46 AM, said:

I know that there are two suggestions on this that  have already been posted, but if you're looking for a really simple unit conversion, try google.

I have a googe toolbar, so it's even faster, but if you run a search in google for something like "320mm to in" you get the conversion right there in nice bold print.  Works for most of the units that I've tried, and is really fast and easy.


Or you could just remember that it's 12.6" and not worry with it too much :)
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#21 User is offline   broonzy 

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Posted 05 April 2005 - 10:52 AM

I feel I have to second the use of Google calculator, this is the second best thing that google can do :lol:

It can convert almost any unit to any other unit, perform many calculations including mathematical constants and hex, binary etc.

Best of all you type sraight into the search bar, try the following:

10.5 feet in meters
11 feet in mm
20mm in inches
seconds in 1 week

you get the picture ;)

full details google calculator

This post has been edited by broonzy: 05 April 2005 - 10:56 AM

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#22 User is offline   Sean Garratt 

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Posted 07 April 2005 - 06:46 PM

for cutting circular holes, for this project and any others, this works well for me.

Attach a piece of metal strap ~@1cm wide and as long as you need to your jigsaw. You may need to modify the jigsaw base a bit to get the metal to fit and still keep the base of the jigsaw flat, some drilling and or filing may be required. Mount it as close to the sawblade as possible.

Whenever you need to cut a circle, drill a hole in the strap this distance of the radius of the desired circle from the blade (or just predrill the strap with a bunch of holes .5 cm apart before you mount it), drill a starting pilot hole in the wood for the blade to begin (indside the circle obviously) and manually jig-cut until you get on the circumference of the circle. (you may need some sort of compass/pencil here to find a small arc of the circumference to target)

nail the strap to the target wood at the desired centre of the circle and let it guide you around, cutting a perfect circle.

I have seen people use string instead of a metal strap, but the you are responsible for angling the jigsaw correctly. Imo, the string method is inferior to just compassing a line and following it manually.

I used this method to make some really nice speakers, cutting holes that look perfectly machined.

This works well for the fan openings, and perhaps for the lens opening, but there is a limit to how small a circle you can cut with this method.

Make sure and use a scrolling blade in the saw also (less that .5 cm wide)

hope this helps!

sg.

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#23 User is offline   gubon13 

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Posted 06 May 2005 - 05:27 PM

Helpful tips for anyone cutting plastics:

1. Always always always go slow. Plastics melt very easily, and will cause you quite a bit of headache if you don't have patience.

2. Always use a backer. What this means is to put a piece of scrap wood behind the plastic. The reasoning for this is that you do not want the drill bit to accelerate once it has cleared the back side of the plastic you are cutting. This acceleration often cracks the plastic, or rips out little chunks that you did not intend.

3. Buy some cheap drill bits. The reason for this is because you want drill bits that are NOT titanium. Take these drill bits and drag them on the concrete out side your apartment until the top edges are no longer sharp. These sharp edges are responsible for cracking plastics just as you are exiting the back side.
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#24 User is offline   JustCuz 

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Posted 22 May 2005 - 10:12 PM

Sean Garratt, on Apr 7 2005, 02:46 PM, said:

for cutting circular holes, for this project and any others, this works well for me.

Attach a piece of metal strap ~@1cm wide and as long as you need to your jigsaw. You may need to modify the jigsaw base a bit to get the metal to fit and still keep the base of the jigsaw flat, some drilling and or filing may be required. Mount it as close to the sawblade as possible.

Whenever you need to cut a circle, drill a hole in the strap this distance of the radius of the desired circle from the blade (or just predrill the strap with a bunch of holes .5 cm apart before you mount it), drill a starting pilot hole in the wood for the blade to begin (indside the circle obviously) and manually jig-cut until you get on the circumference of the circle. (you may need some sort of compass/pencil here to find a small arc of the circumference to target)

nail the strap to the target wood at the desired centre of the circle and let it guide you around, cutting a perfect circle.

I have seen people use string instead of a metal strap, but the you are responsible for angling the jigsaw correctly. Imo, the string method is inferior to just compassing a line and following it manually.

I used this method to make some really nice speakers, cutting holes that look perfectly machined.

This works well for the fan openings, and perhaps for the lens opening, but there is a limit to how small a circle you can cut with this method.

Make sure and use a scrolling blade in the saw also (less that .5 cm wide)

hope this helps!

sg.


These are all good tips. Having drilled through a lot of plexi and lexan, I will offer one more suggestion that you may try if you like: Use a high-speed drill at max speed with a steel bit IN REVERSE. This makes it impossible for the bit to "bite" and crack the plexi. Note: This works well for up to 3/8" substrates, but anything thicker might melt and bind to your bit. Also, like anything, it takes a few tries before you get a feel for how much pressure to use when drilling plexi in reverse, so try it on a piece of scrap and see what you think.
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#25 User is offline   jaggg 

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Posted 18 June 2005 - 12:07 PM

This is a simple monitor calibration tool like Video essentials but it is free.It works great.Praxissoft
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