Useful tools
#1
Posted 24 May 2004 - 02:53 AM
The Lumenlab focal calculator:
http://lumenlab.com/focal_calc.php
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Here's a nice cutting bit for your dremel or rotary saw that makes cutting stainless reflectors a breeze.
http://store.yahoo.c.../1001-5774.html
With this bit you should be able to cut the lamp recess in your reflector in about 30 seconds.
(You can get the same tool at Home Depot.)
Oh yeah, if you don't wear goggles while doing this, you will be picking metal shavings out of your eyes!
#2
Posted 24 May 2004 - 09:09 AM
#3
Posted 24 May 2004 - 03:33 PM
Thanks,
Zendance
#4
Posted 24 May 2004 - 09:47 PM
#5
Posted 21 August 2004 - 10:40 AM
It's a very small program (78K) that converts from one type of measurment to another. No installation to do, just the executable. Personally I've found it a very handy program to have. This is ver. 4.0 and there is a 5.0 but it has a advertisment kind of theme going on, so I stick w/ 4.0. Here's a quote.
"Unit Converter is a freeware tool that can take care of all your unit conversions even when offline. It has an easy-to-use interface and contains most of the units commonly encountered while solving engineering problems. With more than 400 units, you are likely to find the units you are looking for. Other features include the ability to add user-defined conversions. Everything is built into a single executable file so no uninstaller is necessary. Its small file size makes it easy to distribute among friends and co-workers. "
Give it a try, you'll be glad you did!
-Jay
Here's a pic
Attached File(s)
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Converter.zip (78.21K)
Number of downloads: 794
#6
Posted 03 October 2004 - 05:52 AM
You should never tune your settings to any certian movie, as the director has felt that any one particular scene has to set the mood by giving it a certian hue, much like music does. The Matrix comes to mind as it has a green tint to it, so anything you watch after, if you were to adjust to this movie, will have the wrong look to it.
All movies are edited on properly calibrated setups, so make sure your's is too so you can see it how they intended you to see it.
Hope this helps.
peace
--Bruce Lee
#7
Posted 05 October 2004 - 03:11 AM
Spherical Mirrors
Now that's cool
peace
--Bruce Lee
#8
Posted 05 October 2004 - 07:42 AM
SIMJEDI, on Oct 5 2004, 03:11 AM, said:
Spherical Mirrors
Now that's cool
peace
That is a very neat site. You can actually BUILD a virtual LumenLab projector and see how it works. Great find!!!!
#9
Posted 11 October 2004 - 07:54 PM
SYNOPSYS lens design program (SYNthesis of OPtical SYStems)
I think it is an invaluable tool in adept hands. This is an optical CAD.
There is a "Samples" page where you can view what can this software do.
There is also a "Download" section, where you can get the actual version. You can use it without any restrictions for 90 days. After then, either you pay the $1000 registration fee, or.... download and install it again and you got another 90 days.
I'm playing with my new Lumenlab EVO V1 projector! It's great so far!!!
#10
Posted 16 October 2004 - 03:52 PM
DisplayMate: DisplayMate is an expert software utility program for adjusting, setting up, calibrating,
tuning up, testing, evaluating and improving image and picture quality on any display.
Monitor Calibration Wizard: Monitor Calibration Wizard is an easy-to-use tool for calibrating the colors displayed by your monitor. Most monitors have flaws, they may be too dark, too bright, or they may have a color tint like green or blue. All these problems can be easily fixed through Monitor Calibration Wizard.
MonitorsDirect Calibrator: The MonitorsDirect Calibrator is designed to help evaluate monitor quality, diagnose possible problems, and help properly adjust the display image
Nokia Monitor Test: This Windows program will guide you in setting the parameters, controls and adjustments of the monitor. It will also guide you on how to measure picture quality.
Pixel Persistence Analyzer: Pixel Persistence Analyzer is a truly amazing LCD testing tool, which should make it easier to compare the pixel persistence (streaking or ghosting) of TFT monitors. It includes a few tests (flicker test, readability test, etc.), gamma correction feature, scrolling game, attractive interface, and much more!
peace
--Bruce Lee
#11
Posted 22 October 2004 - 11:01 PM
#13
Posted 08 November 2004 - 05:26 AM
http://www.ultimatea...com/news/10388/
The AVIA and Digital Video Essentials DVDs can be aided with an inexpensive sound level meter (an analog version is $10 cheaper). It's not the most accurate, but it is better than running around a room while a test signal is playing.
http://www.radioshac...ct%5Fid=33-2055
#14
Posted 23 January 2005 - 07:12 PM
Your volt meter should also tell DC voltage as well make sure before you purchase,in DC voltage its opposite from AC here black is ground,use a car as an example
If your still confused
#16
Posted 23 February 2005 - 03:22 AM
Notice the date, it's nothing new.
peace
--Bruce Lee
#17
Posted 03 March 2005 - 01:31 PM
I had my box plans laid out on a piece of paper and knew each pieces dimensions. I took these drawings to Home Depot and they cut the parts to size. The first three cuts were free and it was .25 cents for every cut after this. It was well worth it!
Advantages:
1. Easier to transport in the car versus a 4x8 sheet of MDF
2. No need to purchase a circular saw
3. No need to cut your fingers off trying to cut a 12" X 27" piece out of a 4'X8' piece of MDF.
4. BIGGEST ADVANTAGE: Every cut was square. This means that the box fit together nicely.
Sam
#19
Posted 24 March 2005 - 06:46 AM
I have a googe toolbar, so it's even faster, but if you run a search in google for something like "320mm to in" you get the conversion right there in nice bold print. Works for most of the units that I've tried, and is really fast and easy.
#20
Posted 25 March 2005 - 06:55 PM
tawamiami, on Mar 24 2005, 06:46 AM, said:
I have a googe toolbar, so it's even faster, but if you run a search in google for something like "320mm to in" you get the conversion right there in nice bold print. Works for most of the units that I've tried, and is really fast and easy.
Or you could just remember that it's 12.6" and not worry with it too much
#21
Posted 05 April 2005 - 10:52 AM
It can convert almost any unit to any other unit, perform many calculations including mathematical constants and hex, binary etc.
Best of all you type sraight into the search bar, try the following:
10.5 feet in meters
11 feet in mm
20mm in inches
seconds in 1 week
you get the picture
full details google calculator
This post has been edited by broonzy: 05 April 2005 - 10:56 AM
#22
Posted 07 April 2005 - 06:46 PM
Attach a piece of metal strap ~@1cm wide and as long as you need to your jigsaw. You may need to modify the jigsaw base a bit to get the metal to fit and still keep the base of the jigsaw flat, some drilling and or filing may be required. Mount it as close to the sawblade as possible.
Whenever you need to cut a circle, drill a hole in the strap this distance of the radius of the desired circle from the blade (or just predrill the strap with a bunch of holes .5 cm apart before you mount it), drill a starting pilot hole in the wood for the blade to begin (indside the circle obviously) and manually jig-cut until you get on the circumference of the circle. (you may need some sort of compass/pencil here to find a small arc of the circumference to target)
nail the strap to the target wood at the desired centre of the circle and let it guide you around, cutting a perfect circle.
I have seen people use string instead of a metal strap, but the you are responsible for angling the jigsaw correctly. Imo, the string method is inferior to just compassing a line and following it manually.
I used this method to make some really nice speakers, cutting holes that look perfectly machined.
This works well for the fan openings, and perhaps for the lens opening, but there is a limit to how small a circle you can cut with this method.
Make sure and use a scrolling blade in the saw also (less that .5 cm wide)
hope this helps!
sg.
Attached File(s)
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jigsaw_circle_cut.jpg (10.22K)
Number of downloads: 29
#23
Posted 06 May 2005 - 05:27 PM
1. Always always always go slow. Plastics melt very easily, and will cause you quite a bit of headache if you don't have patience.
2. Always use a backer. What this means is to put a piece of scrap wood behind the plastic. The reasoning for this is that you do not want the drill bit to accelerate once it has cleared the back side of the plastic you are cutting. This acceleration often cracks the plastic, or rips out little chunks that you did not intend.
3. Buy some cheap drill bits. The reason for this is because you want drill bits that are NOT titanium. Take these drill bits and drag them on the concrete out side your apartment until the top edges are no longer sharp. These sharp edges are responsible for cracking plastics just as you are exiting the back side.
#24
Posted 22 May 2005 - 10:12 PM
Sean Garratt, on Apr 7 2005, 02:46 PM, said:
Attach a piece of metal strap ~@1cm wide and as long as you need to your jigsaw. You may need to modify the jigsaw base a bit to get the metal to fit and still keep the base of the jigsaw flat, some drilling and or filing may be required. Mount it as close to the sawblade as possible.
Whenever you need to cut a circle, drill a hole in the strap this distance of the radius of the desired circle from the blade (or just predrill the strap with a bunch of holes .5 cm apart before you mount it), drill a starting pilot hole in the wood for the blade to begin (indside the circle obviously) and manually jig-cut until you get on the circumference of the circle. (you may need some sort of compass/pencil here to find a small arc of the circumference to target)
nail the strap to the target wood at the desired centre of the circle and let it guide you around, cutting a perfect circle.
I have seen people use string instead of a metal strap, but the you are responsible for angling the jigsaw correctly. Imo, the string method is inferior to just compassing a line and following it manually.
I used this method to make some really nice speakers, cutting holes that look perfectly machined.
This works well for the fan openings, and perhaps for the lens opening, but there is a limit to how small a circle you can cut with this method.
Make sure and use a scrolling blade in the saw also (less that .5 cm wide)
hope this helps!
sg.
These are all good tips. Having drilled through a lot of plexi and lexan, I will offer one more suggestion that you may try if you like: Use a high-speed drill at max speed with a steel bit IN REVERSE. This makes it impossible for the bit to "bite" and crack the plexi. Note: This works well for up to 3/8" substrates, but anything thicker might melt and bind to your bit. Also, like anything, it takes a few tries before you get a feel for how much pressure to use when drilling plexi in reverse, so try it on a piece of scrap and see what you think.
#25
Posted 18 June 2005 - 12:07 PM

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